Hello all,
Charlesn wrote a spectacular review that I wholeheartedly agree with. I also concur with Yaesumofo, especially the point about now knowing the feeling of owning something akin to a Larry Light.
My only gripe is a function of past conditioning, having three PDs I find myself instinctively pressing the solid surface of the tail of the light in an attempt to operate the piston that is not present.
The threads on my Ti are rather stiff but I'm working them as much as I can, hoping to be able to have easy one handed operation down pat at some point. From what I recall was it a Krytox blend of lubricant from the Shoppe that is recommended to help smooth the action?
My primary concern: Don, for the benefit of all, could you please post a detailed instruction set (with pics or illustrations if possible) on how to go about the emitter swap procedure. I purchased the optional heatsink and would like to order one more. I realize it would take a considerable amount of time to prepare but I for one would be hugely appreciative. I am really excited about the upcoming K2s. Also curious about removing (safely and non-destructively) the converter... If I do an emitter swap I might really go visit the back of beyond and send my light to Peter for some unique anodizing, I simply cannot get over the artistry of his work.
When the light was announced, I was kind of leery of the Y0 tint fearing it might be bluish for my tastes, which had drifted towards the W0 region. After receiving the light, I was pleasantly shocked with the appeal of the tint to my eyes, I simply love it, very pure white indeed. It had slipped my mind that one of my first Donware items was a PR-T with DB917 TYOJ, and since it was dormant for a while I had forgotten that particular Y0 was my reference standard for white for a long while.
The only disappointment was the overall luminous flux. In this light, I actually prefer the defocus due to the "joker factor", it compares favorably to my U-bin splash PD. However, all three of my PDs are noticeably brighter overall, especially the dark slate with TYOJ, having a much more pronounced center spot and much higher lux readings: 640 @ 1m on high w/ McLux-T vs 1150 @ 1m w/ TY0J PD (peak measured at beam center). Both were with freshly charged newer R123 cells. Because of the flood beam effect of the defocus, the nature of the beam is certainly pleasing to the eye, because there is virtually no sharply defined hotspot, a nice even spread of light and the gorgeous tint make for great near field task illumination. However, when distance is called for, the T falls far short of the PDs. I realize its not intended to be a throw monster, but compared to the slate PD with the same bin (older slug) its quite obvious the total luminous flux is indeed quite less. I suppose it amounts to nitpicking, because on its own I really enjoy using the light, only when analytically comparing it to its brethren do I find shortcomings. Ones that are entirely the cause of the LED itself. I am reluctant to make an immediate change because I favor the Y0 tint drastically over many of my other lights.
True to what others have reported, this one sees the outside world and I refuse to relegate it to shelf queen status. This may be sacreligious, but I would like to know if you could send a tab and screw my way so I could have the option to tab carry the light as an EDC, in place of my PDs.
In all, the T is a high watermark design, unique and amazing. I consider myself extraordinarily fortunate to finally have one to call my own.
Mahalos, Don
