FRANKVZ
Enlightened
I just installed a joker reflector in my T and it now has a hotspot and brightness very similar to a PD! :rock:
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McLuxIII-T (titanium) **SOLD**
- Thread starter McGizmo
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I tracked down this thread to find the above information....except is isn't in here....
But the thing is that while this started as a sales thread originally, it turned into a really really cool discussion that I think any McGizmo fan would do well to read over and will enjoy. Seeing some of the history when it comes to Don's start in titanium, early turn-key lights and protos of later Lunasol designs is super cool. There is some awesome reviews and cheers for Don's amazing eye for design and creativity in here as well, and some of The Man's more philosophical comments ever, as far as I've read. SO, here I wanted to bump it up so you all can enjoy it too.
Also, Don, if you can provide or direct me to the above modding information too, that would be much appreciated. :thumbsup:
fyrstormer
Banned
ATTAAAACK OF THE ZOMMMMBIE THREEEEAD! :sick2: Just in time for Halloween, too! :devil:
Are you asking for information about upgrading the emitter? If so, it basically works like this:
1. Unscrew the bezel ring and remove the lense, O-rings, and reflector.
2. Unscrew the set-screw that holds the driver board in-place. This will also de-secure the LED heatsink.
3. De-solder the LED wire leads from the driver board. Set the driver board aside for now.
4. Push the LED heatsink out through the front of the head.
5. Tear, mangle, discombobulate, and otherwise remove the LED from the heatsink using all possible (and probably necessary) means.
6. Soak the heatsink in various nasty solvents until you find one that will soften the epoxy. (a combo of Goof Off and acetone usually works well)
7. Scrub the remaining epoxy off the heatsink surface.
8. Prep the new LED by soldering new wire leads onto it. Test-fit the LED and trim the plastic carrier as necessary to make it fit and center properly.
9. Apply fresh epoxy to the back of the new LED and install onto the heatsink. The next couple steps must be done in about two minutes or so.
10. Apply fresh NON-ADHESIVE heatsink goop to the edges of the heatsink, then re-insert into the head.
11. Reinstall the reflector, O-rings, and lense, then tighten the bezel ring to anchor everything in place while the epoxy sets.
12. Go get a cup of coffee and come back in a half-hour.
13. Solder the new wire leads into the thru-holes in the driver board. Trim the ends of the wires sticking through the board.
14. Twist and pre-fold the wire leads so they will retract smoothly into the space between the heatsink and the driver board when the head is closed.
15. Reinstall the set-screw to clamp the driver board and the heatsink onto the head. Make sure to carefully align the driver board BEFORE fully tightening.
16. Reassemble the light and test for functionality.
17. There is no Step 17.
If that looks like a lot of steps, it's because I got really detailed in my description. It doesn't feel this complicated in real life.
Are you asking for information about upgrading the emitter? If so, it basically works like this:
1. Unscrew the bezel ring and remove the lense, O-rings, and reflector.
2. Unscrew the set-screw that holds the driver board in-place. This will also de-secure the LED heatsink.
3. De-solder the LED wire leads from the driver board. Set the driver board aside for now.
4. Push the LED heatsink out through the front of the head.
5. Tear, mangle, discombobulate, and otherwise remove the LED from the heatsink using all possible (and probably necessary) means.
6. Soak the heatsink in various nasty solvents until you find one that will soften the epoxy. (a combo of Goof Off and acetone usually works well)
7. Scrub the remaining epoxy off the heatsink surface.
8. Prep the new LED by soldering new wire leads onto it. Test-fit the LED and trim the plastic carrier as necessary to make it fit and center properly.
9. Apply fresh epoxy to the back of the new LED and install onto the heatsink. The next couple steps must be done in about two minutes or so.
10. Apply fresh NON-ADHESIVE heatsink goop to the edges of the heatsink, then re-insert into the head.
11. Reinstall the reflector, O-rings, and lense, then tighten the bezel ring to anchor everything in place while the epoxy sets.
12. Go get a cup of coffee and come back in a half-hour.
13. Solder the new wire leads into the thru-holes in the driver board. Trim the ends of the wires sticking through the board.
14. Twist and pre-fold the wire leads so they will retract smoothly into the space between the heatsink and the driver board when the head is closed.
15. Reinstall the set-screw to clamp the driver board and the heatsink onto the head. Make sure to carefully align the driver board BEFORE fully tightening.
16. Reassemble the light and test for functionality.
17. There is no Step 17.
If that looks like a lot of steps, it's because I got really detailed in my description. It doesn't feel this complicated in real life.
Last edited:
Frenchyled
Flashaholic*
:wave:
This six years old thread is still a pleasure to read again...
An now...we need more new Ti Flashlights :nana:
This six years old thread is still a pleasure to read again...
An now...we need more new Ti Flashlights :nana:
London Lad
Flashlight Enthusiast
Although there are some incredibly capable and sophisticated lights about nowadays the McLuxIII-T has a certain 'something' that, IMHO, has still never been surpassed.
fyrstormer
Banned
It's called "originality".
London Lad
Flashlight Enthusiast
True.......
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