Modding Greenforce lights

gav6280

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What about 4 XR-E R2 and a Ledil Cute-4 smooth spot?

I modded my Tilly Tec MR16 Head with this 35mm optic.

It`s OK for murky water and there will be enough room
left for the driver.

I keep coming back to that optic but it still sounds quite a wide beam to me, you got any beam shots of it underwater, got a pond???
 

DaYerk

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I keep coming back to that optic but it still sounds quite a wide beam to me, you got any beam shots of it underwater, got a pond???

Sorry, no pond. But what do you expect from a light? Sure this is no penetrating lightsaber for signaling, but it has a useable beam with a nice white tint.

Compared with my modded W20 (XP-G R5 with LXP 6 at 1,2A) it is much wider, but imho the LXP is only good for signaling or absolut darkness.

I think "my" cute 4 at 800mA is compareable with the stock Tilly Led 900.
But the tint is not such an ugly green. It is hard to notice if one of this lights has a lumen more.

Hope it helps :wave:

Nevertheless: my actual project is modding a GF Tristar. Its the short head with 5 o-rings on the outside.

Problem: due to the 10mm thick frontlens, the 50mm cylindrical part is only 19mm high.

The heatsink is 3mm. So i have only 16mm for Led and optic. Is this enough for the quad dx-aspheric? How long are the tubes for the lenses?

Packhorse? Please?
 
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Packhorse

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Im not sure off hand. Its probably close.
I'd have a read of the mag thread as I think it may be in there.
 

DaYerk

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Nope, found nothing. I think i swap my XR-E R2 Cute 4 into this head an use the TT Pro for the aspheric.

With 4 sku.26110 (5W 3-18V) driver The TT Pro will be a nice head.
 

gav6280

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Pack on your 4 up aspheric mag head using the dx lenses how long are the little plastic tubes in order to get the focus right?

And totall overall length including when the lens is on top?
 

Packhorse

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Gav, see my post above.

I no longer have my quad aspheric. Focal length is probably quoted in the relevant thread.
 

Culdagor

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I'm having my girlfriend laugh at me because of my punny GreenForce Arrow 12 10W HiD. I'd like to upgrade it to a SST90, but I can find neither a competent driver nor a drop in module for it.

Any sugestions?

Do you make such a drop in Module?
 

350xfire

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I don't know that you will find a drop in module per se for the Greenforce light. Anything out there will probably be a custom build. Should probably consider SST-50 for a tighter beam. Use a Taskled Driver at 6 amps+.
 
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Packhorse

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Suggestions... get a new girlfriend.

Yeah, I think it would be a custom job.
Depending on the beam shape you want and what power you want to drive it at I would also consider the SST-50. My guess is you wouldnt get much run time from a SST-90 driven at 9 amp with a battery pack designed for a 10 watt light. In fact it will probably be 1/4 of the run time.
 

jspeybro

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I'm having my girlfriend laugh at me because of my punny GreenForce Arrow 12 10W HiD. I'd like to upgrade it to a SST90, but I can find neither a competent driver nor a drop in module for it.

Any sugestions?

Do you make such a drop in Module?
user Der Wichtel on this forum sells drivers for both sst-50 and 90. Also taskled.com has a 6.7A driver that can be set to a certain current with a potentiometer. Then there is also a linear regulater somewhere on this forum.
Led-tech.de also seems to have quite a few drivers but are less suitable for torches.
 

Culdagor

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You think that the tighter beam of the SST-50 would be better?

Run time can be a concern...

This arrow 12 deal is getting worse all the time. I'd go for one of their new heads but I'm not sure it would be that good, and frankly my wallet feels somewhat raped...
 

Packhorse

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The owner of the fatter GF light in this thread has decided to sell it.
It is on the NZ auction site Trademe.co.nz
Start price is $250 and buynow is $500nz
This is way way to cheap!
PM me for details.
 

johnnyryan

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Hi,
first post here. im an electrician but not great with electronics and have a few questions regarding a torch/project i bought. basically the greenforce torch doesnt use a switch but a screwcap to make the circuit. the guy who sold it to me bought a new battery which is too short to make contact with the screw cap. so what i want to do is switch it from the torch head with a reed switch. the problem i have is that im switching 12v 50w max which is 4.2A and too much for a reed. I have ordered a MOSFET to take the load.
My question is, can I just use the mosfet and reed direct from the battery or do i need and resistors?? Will the MOSFET disconnect when the mag moves off the reed or will it latch?? or will the lamp remain on? will the MOSFET overheat with 4/5A running through it???
Sorry for all the questions but can ANYBODY help?????
Johnny.
 

350xfire

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Hi,
first post here. im an electrician but not great with electronics and have a few questions regarding a torch/project i bought. basically the greenforce torch doesnt use a switch but a screwcap to make the circuit. the guy who sold it to me bought a new battery which is too short to make contact with the screw cap. so what i want to do is switch it from the torch head with a reed switch. the problem i have is that im switching 12v 50w max which is 4.2A and too much for a reed. I have ordered a MOSFET to take the load.
My question is, can I just use the mosfet and reed direct from the battery or do i need and resistors?? Will the MOSFET disconnect when the mag moves off the reed or will it latch?? or will the lamp remain on? will the MOSFET overheat with 4/5A running through it???
Sorry for all the questions but can ANYBODY help?????
Johnny.


If it's like the GFs I have opened, the battery does not make any contact. There are wires that connect the battery to the cap terminals???
 

lucca brassi

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If it's like the GFs I have opened, the battery does not make any contact. There
are wires that connect the battery to the cap terminals???

It looks to me like GF have problems with their switching on/off. As you know all GF (and Tilly Tec ) have huge connectors for modular connecting their canisters , heads and cables ....with turning their connectors left/right. I think that washer between cable and connector loose their grip and cable slowly turns itself in connector till rip itselves out! On photos have many cables twisted wires in one direction .
Connectors should be griped only on theit body but I conclude that is cable rotated with connector too ?
 

johnnyryan

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There a pain in the ***. I'm not sure that turning the canister cap is safe at40-60m so I've decided to put a reed in the lamphead with the MOSFET(if they fit!) and have a plug connecter in the canister to charge the batt.
Are 50w gu10 lamps good underwater? I've never seen a 100 but that would significantly reduce burn time.
The lamp came with no connectors, just the umbilical cable so not sure what method of screwcap switching they use but it's a method I just font trust!!
Any ideas welcome.
Thanks!!
 

350xfire

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There a pain in the ***. I'm not sure that turning the canister cap is safe at40-60m so I've decided to put a reed in the lamphead with the MOSFET(if they fit!) and have a plug connecter in the canister to charge the batt.
Are 50w gu10 lamps good underwater? I've never seen a 100 but that would significantly reduce burn time.
The lamp came with no connectors, just the umbilical cable so not sure what method of screwcap switching they use but it's a method I just font trust!!
Any ideas welcome.
Thanks!!

Agree, I just recently modified a GF and the damn thing flooded at 80 feet. The 3 orings in the canister plug leaked. Now I am going to put an Agro gland on the head plug and run one of my canisters on it since I don't trust the canister anymore.
 
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