MORA where have you been my whole life.

[xxo]

yes the two are internet showoffs and, for example, do questionable edge retention tests. never mind them. it is interesting to learn though what the construction of this "imported 5EUR-knife" is. basically the Mora has the blade of a folding knife which is glued to a plastic handle, for lack of better engrish.

the other month i had the Mora Basic in my hands and sharpened it. It was really easy to slap a micro-ish secondary bevel on it, i got it super sharp in no time. then i decided to delete the bevel because that's the recommended way (Kyle vid1, Kyle vid2) to maintain such a blade. took quite a while (on my goto stone the Spyderco UF) to apex the grind; i found it a thankless effortful task, given how fast any knife edge can get dull in relation/in comparison. Take 1 sheet of paper towel (kitchen roll), scrunch it up, and (try to) cut through the paper ball as if it were a tomato. After this simple cut test the Mora edge is blunt again!, check the apex reflection with your headlamp Olight H1 Nova to verify :huh:

very soft steel in my books. makes it easy to strop, i give you that :ironic:

There is something wrong if your edge won't cut paper towel without dulling. Maybe you have a burr that is rolling that needs to be removed.

Those vids show the problem with the so called "Scandi" grind (it's just a cheap way for the manufacturer to put an edge on a blade which is why it's used a lot for machetes) - while you can use the bevel as a sharpening guide, you end up having to remove a lot metal. Another problem with scandi grinds is the edges tend to be too weak, particularly for the soft steels that the use or for any hard use. I used the "scandi" edges but I found that a 40 degree edge bevel off of a sharpmaker was much more practical and easier to maintain.

 

[xxo]

My long-held understanding of batoning entails running WITH the grain of the wood, not cross grain like shown when the Mora broke. You can break pretty much anything if you try hard enough or use the tool in an unintended way. I agree, the Mora knives aren't going to build you a cabin in the woods. But for smaller work like fuzz sticks, food and game prep, trap building, etc. they are fantastic knives.

You can baton cross grain on an angle like you would use when chopping with an axe to create chips.

 

[P_A_S_1]

The stone in post 18, anyone know what it is? Looks like a norton med. india/soft ark. Can't play the video.

 

[thermal guy]

I once broke an anvil while I was in the service. True story! If you try hard enough you can break dam near anything.I take what I see and am told with a grain of salt.I find it's best to test my own stuff out by how I'm going to use it. It's really the only way to be sure it will work and perform as it should when I need it.

 

[The Hawk]

I just bought my first Mora knife. Great knife, really good price. I will be purchasing more of these soon. Probably will be replacing some kitchen knives with Mora knives.

 

[Pirate63]

 

[Poppy]

It's funny, I have a Morakniv Companion and I'm a little afraid of it. It is very sharp, which is good, but the tip is so pointy, that I have to be particularly careful, not to stick myself with it. I don't know how I would do that, perhaps it is when I am putting it back into its holster.

My foldable buck has just as pointy a tip, and I have no fear with it.

 

[Pirate63]