Muyshondt Mk III S2

Hoosier Light

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Good stuff here. Thanks. Looks like the lesson from your testing is to use high only when really needed.

Runtime on high: Light output seemed to hold steady until about the 27 minute mark where it lost maybe 25% of the original brightness?

It seemed to roughly hold that output level until about the 40 minute mark at which point heat generated from the light significantly dropped and the light output seemed to be about 50% brightness of original.

By around the 45 minute mark the light output seemed about twice as bright as the medium mode.

At 50 minutes, it was barley brighter than the medium mode.

At about one hour the light output was the same as the medium mode.

I noticed around one hour and 17 minutes in, the light output was lower than the medium mode.

And at an hour and 30 minutes the output was the same as the low mode.

Finally, when I checked again at the two hour mark, light output dropped to below one lumen and the resting voltage was .73


These are rough guesses since I lack any testing equipment but maybe soon I will use these as a benchmark to run another test and see if they match up again.
 

LogicalBeard

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Good stuff here. Thanks. Looks like the lesson from your testing is to use high only when really needed.


The medium mode is a champion; But, I don't know, it won't stop me from using the high mode. I do like the way it tapers down instead of a hard cutoff. You get a warning at the 30 minute mark and then some more warnings at the end of the advertised runtime of 45 to 50 minutes; assuming my guess are correct about output.
 

LogicalBeard

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Havn't been on here in ages... then i saw this thread.... might be time to upgrade my Aeon i've carried on my keys for ~8 years+

DAAC7B51-8B81-49EC-84C5-3945FCE724D3_zps4danmtc8.jpg


Nice Aeon! You make me nervous with that split ring though. It looks like it could wiggle of the main keyring :sweat: I guess if it hasn't in 8 years you are safe. :)
 

Hoosier Light

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The medium mode is a champion; But, I don't know, it won't stop me from using the high mode. I do like the way it tapers down instead of a hard cutoff. You get a warning at the 30 minute mark and then some more warnings at the end of the advertised runtime of 45 to 50 minutes; assuming my guess are correct about output.

Yes, the tapering is good...and exactly what I would expect from Muyshondt. And I am not complaining about the runtime on high. The full 160 lumens has proven very helpful to me in a number of situations. I love the idea of having that extra oomph when I need it. Just need to remember that there is a trade-off with the very small, convenient size.
 

LogicalBeard

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I see what you mean. You know what I would think is perfect, if there was a forth mode; somewhere around 70 Lumens so that you didn't have to nerf runtimes every time 15 Lumens isn't enough. Lots of people hate clicking through extra modes though. What is your opinion? Would you like a mode between 15 and 70?
 

elzilcho

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Apr 27, 2016
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Are you able to confirm if the S2 does or does not have PWM on any of its 3 modes? I know the S1 version had something that looked very much like PWM.
 

LogicalBeard

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I don't see any with the naked eye. However, I do see some on the low mode using my phone camera. I'll post pictures later tonight.
 

LogicalBeard

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I'm having a tough time uploading the image. It has been a while since I have tried. I used imgur previous times but there seems to be an issue; is it because the file is a HEIF file and not a JPEG? What image hosting site do you recommend? Otherwise maybe I can send them to you in a private message to post?


EDIT: Okay I found a way to switch the native file format when taking pictures but I won't be able to post them until later tonight.
 
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LogicalBeard

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This is low mode

[URL="https://imgur.com/UXxhdjd"][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/UXxhdjd.jpg[/URL][/IMG]
 

InvisibleFrodo

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I know this is subjective, but I was wondering how the tint on the aeon compares to the flood emitters on the Beagle as I believe you have both? Is the Aeon warmer, cooler, similar, maybe more pink vs more yellow, etc...
 

Hoosier Light

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I see what you mean. You know what I would think is perfect, if there was a forth mode; somewhere around 70 Lumens so that you didn't have to nerf runtimes every time 15 Lumens isn't enough. Lots of people hate clicking through extra modes though. What is your opinion? Would you like a mode between 15 and 70?

Dunno. I go back and forth in my thinking. Having a 70 lumens setting would no doubt be useful in some situations where I needed more light but wanted to conserve the battery, but I would probably spend too much time trying to find the ideal level if I had more choices. Like using a 6-speed manual in a car. The three choice option we have now is simple and quick. I rarely use the rotary option on my HDS--it can be distracting trying to perfectly match need with output.
 

LogicalBeard

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I know this is subjective, but I was wondering how the tint on the aeon compares to the flood emitters on the Beagle as I believe you have both? Is the Aeon warmer, cooler, similar, maybe more pink vs more yellow, etc...


Ill check tonight. I think the Aeon is warmer. I'll see if my phone camera can capture the differences.
 

JWRitchie76

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Well I'm considering a revist of the Aeon MK III. I had one of the first release lights for a while and I'm kind of wanting to give it another try. I'm curious if there is a safe and reliable rechargeable CR2 cell available in the market that anyone is using or has used with the Aeon MK III? I would assume it would have to be a protected type cell is so? Feedback anyone?
 

LogicalBeard

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Something like the "superex 6 pcs of 3v 400mah cr2 battery" will work. It doesn't have to be protected but I would want protected. The one thing you have to look for is the lifepo4 chemistry with a nominal 3 volt rating; which actually comes off the charger at something like 3.6/7


Honestly though, I think it is more of a hassle than it is worth. For an EDC light, unless you have a dedicated task that you need use high mode consistently for a good chunk of time, primaries work great. I carry a spare battery in my pack and it lasts forever. Were you burning though batteries before, or is it a case of "guilty lumens"?
 

JWRitchie76

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Something like the "superex 6 pcs of 3v 400mah cr2 battery" will work. It doesn't have to be protected but I would want protected. The one thing you have to look for is the lifepo4 chemistry with a nominal 3 volt rating; which actually comes off the charger at something like 3.6/7


Honestly though, I think it is more of a hassle than it is worth. For an EDC light, unless you have a dedicated task that you need use high mode consistently for a good chunk of time, primaries work great. I carry a spare battery in my pack and it lasts forever. Were you burning though batteries before, or is it a case of "guilty lumens"?

No issue before that I recall, it's been a couple years and EDC lights ago. Currently I'm running a nichia Maratac AAA and feed it Eneloop Pro's so it's probably just a case of guilty lumens. I will say I use med the most on my Maratac and I don't recall how I liked it on the Aeon MK III. The specs state 15 lumens and that's about half compared to the Maratac so I may use high more than intended?
 

LogicalBeard

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And I don't have a Maratac or I would do a comparison for you. I will say the beam is more of a spot my previous EDC's such as the foursevens mini ml-x. Which I wouldn't think I would have preferred but I do.
 
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