Cheapskate
Enlightened
So what guaranteed-fault-free brands are you going to be buying?
Fault free rules out Surefire. I guess if you buy nothing but custom made lights you should be ok.
My RRT-0 arrived today...Major Problems!
- Thread starter joshth09
- Start date
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So what guaranteed-fault-free brands are you going to be buying?
Fault free rules out Surefire. I guess if you buy nothing but custom made lights you should be ok.
gilly
Enlightened
Such negativity....
I have the following from Jetbeam:
M1X (two of them)
RRT-0
RRT-1
RRT-2
Jet III M
Jet II Pro
...and have not had one single problem with any of them.:thumbsup:
Lunal_Tic
Flashlight Enthusiast
I have a similar problem to the OP. The light was purchased from Bugout Gear on January 8 so I think it's the "new" batch.
The light worked fine for intermittent use up until last Friday when I started to use it a lot because of the storm caused power outage down here. After about a day of fairly heavy use it just went out.
It won't turn on most of the time and it will sometimes flash on the backstroke of the tail switch. I have tried both fresh AA and 123 batteries with the same result. I also took a paperclip and jumpered the battery negative to the unanodized edge of the body and it appears to work correctly.
An email from Bugout Gear says they'll send me a brass spacer that will need to be installed "inside the tail cap just below the guts of the tail cap." Sounds like it's a height problem with the switch. Odd since it worked for a while without problem.
-LT
The light worked fine for intermittent use up until last Friday when I started to use it a lot because of the storm caused power outage down here. After about a day of fairly heavy use it just went out.
It won't turn on most of the time and it will sometimes flash on the backstroke of the tail switch. I have tried both fresh AA and 123 batteries with the same result. I also took a paperclip and jumpered the battery negative to the unanodized edge of the body and it appears to work correctly.
An email from Bugout Gear says they'll send me a brass spacer that will need to be installed "inside the tail cap just below the guts of the tail cap." Sounds like it's a height problem with the switch. Odd since it worked for a while without problem.
-LT
curiousone1
Newly Enlightened
Had that intermittent switch thing, too......but I was lucky.....I just totally disassembled the unit, cleaned and re-lubed all my threads/o-rings, reassembled and everything's been working without issue ever since. :twothumbs
jefierro
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2009
- Messages
- 76
One thing more you can do to fix the switch, I was getting false connections between the terminals due also a "texturized connector" some times in the pressing processes the part gets bend is such a way that creates ripples in the metal, I'm referring to the cup like metallic part that makes contact when pressing the button. I used 600 grit sandpaper and sanded the bottom in water until I got a smooth surface. that has fixed the problem now to a 100%
It's stupid to think that a manufacturer is free from all defect in their products, there will always be a bad unit or a bad batch, just make sure you buy from a reputable brand like JetBeam, when you have a problem they will fix it, fast, also they'll improve their production line to reduce that problem and luckily eliminating any further ones.
If you want a product that is free from defects hand tested, hand finished to perfection using the very best materials, how much you think that's going to cost?. Way more I'll ever pay for a flashlight. I love my JetBeams and will buy more in the future, they look cool, and also are very well engineered.
It's stupid to think that a manufacturer is free from all defect in their products, there will always be a bad unit or a bad batch, just make sure you buy from a reputable brand like JetBeam, when you have a problem they will fix it, fast, also they'll improve their production line to reduce that problem and luckily eliminating any further ones.
If you want a product that is free from defects hand tested, hand finished to perfection using the very best materials, how much you think that's going to cost?. Way more I'll ever pay for a flashlight. I love my JetBeams and will buy more in the future, they look cool, and also are very well engineered.
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2Reason
Newly Enlightened
I've been following this post while I await shipment of an RRT-O for my wife and a Pro III ST for myself from Bug Out. It concerns me that these manufacturers are shipping products that have to be jerry rigged by the consumer. This to me is an intolerable state of affairs. I collect guns and can not imagine the quality control of firearms being so deficient that the consumer would have to bring their new acquisition to a gunsmith in order for it to function properly. It's one thing to mod a new product, it's another to have to make repairs in order for it to function!
I think we are being way too tolerant as consumers. These lights are expensive, and we should expect that they perform as the tactical equipment for which they are being touted. If mine don't work properly they're going back, and I will make my dissatisfaction known to both Jetbeam and this forum.
bedazzLED
Enlightened
Yes, that's the one I used.
recDNA
Flashaholic
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2009
- Messages
- 8,761
I agree 100% The trouble is if you knock a brand someone gets ugly about it then the mod kills the thread. This forum is set up for praise more than criticism. Don't get me wrong. I love CPF. It wish we could endulge in vigorous debate without annoying mods to the point they freeze the thread. To be honest I'm surprised this one is still alive. If you replace the word "Jetbeam" with "Surefire" believe me this thread is dead and gone.
I bought an RRT-0, too. Nice little light with very much attention to detail.
I have problems, too:
1) shattered window. Replaced by vendor asap, so all is fine
2) when going to low mode, it iften does malfunction and goes to something a little less bright than medium mode. Works intermittantly.
One thing is really strange though ... how can they market a light as "tactical" when it has a delay of a few hundred ms between derpessing the switch and ignition of the LED? That is insane. In addition to being dangerous in a tactical environment (I imagine) it makes signaling virtually impossible. Very bad.
In the end I like it though ... it is a "Pocket-U2", the little brither of one of my all-time favourite lights.
bernie
I have problems, too:
1) shattered window. Replaced by vendor asap, so all is fine
2) when going to low mode, it iften does malfunction and goes to something a little less bright than medium mode. Works intermittantly.
One thing is really strange though ... how can they market a light as "tactical" when it has a delay of a few hundred ms between derpessing the switch and ignition of the LED? That is insane. In addition to being dangerous in a tactical environment (I imagine) it makes signaling virtually impossible. Very bad.
In the end I like it though ... it is a "Pocket-U2", the little brither of one of my all-time favourite lights.
bernie
Lunal_Tic
Flashlight Enthusiast
I don't recall mine having that delay. I'll have to check it when I get the shim installed.
On the low that's closer to med, I noticed that the 1st and 2nd levels were pretty close on mine so I try to leave it in the "low-low" mode that I read about in the instructions. I haven't had it accidentally come out of it though. Do wish the detents on the selector ring were a little bit stiffer.
-LT
Lunal_Tic
Flashlight Enthusiast
D'oh ! :sick2:
I didn't even know that the two low modes are built in instead of a bug
Rather stupid to have a selector ring and use a hidden mode like that.
Glass cracked again though.
I agree, one more detent would have been a better setup IMO. How is your glass cracking? Does it split across the lens or shatter near the edge?
-LT
It has a second time a crack running right through the lens, it seperated 1/4 of the other 3/4.
I suppose a little something with the bezel ring is applying pressure where none should be. I asked Flavio to sell me a new bezel.
bernie
I suppose a little something with the bezel ring is applying pressure where none should be. I asked Flavio to sell me a new bezel.
bernie
was.lost.but.now.found
Enlightened
I rather like it. I'm thinking about getting one. I think 4 spots on the selector ring is a nice limit to keep it uncluttered, yet provide flexibility.
jefierro
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2009
- Messages
- 76
Or I would have waited for the replacement part that was sent to me right after I let BG know I was having problems with the switch, but I get bored easily.
I still think JetBeam products are top notch, and worth every penny I paid.
But hey! that's just me.-
Well ordered a RRT-0 from BOG yesterday so I hope I have none of the problems mentioned above. I did have malfunctions with my RRT-2 but cleaned all the excessive lube off and it has been great ever since. I read above about the brass ring for the switch so atleast I know now why my RRt-2 came shipped with one in a separate plastic baggy.
Also has anyone done a runtime graph on cr123 and 14500 I can't find one using the search.
Also has anyone done a runtime graph on cr123 and 14500 I can't find one using the search.
Lunal_Tic
Flashlight Enthusiast
I received the brass spacer ring here in Japan recently and thought I would share my installation procedure and difficulties. First up was the scalloped retaining piece around the back of the light.
(click thumbnails to enlarge)
I have a standard ring removal tool designed for holes not scallops so it kept slipping off the scallops. I tried a number of sharp nose pliers that weren't that much better but I finally got it removed.
In the process I punched a hole in the rubber boot when the tool slipped. The boot is not as tough as I had hoped based on my tinkering with other brands of lights but at least Jetbeam provides a spare.
I put in the brass ring and reassembled but noticed the retaining piece wouldn't screw down at all. I couldn't get the threads to engage. So I took it apart again. The rubber boot itself was blocking the threads because it is the same size as the tube not the inside threads.
I took an angled dental pick and poked the edges of the boot past the first thread then reassembled; still not right the retaining piece was too high.
Took out the boot and trimmed to fit inside of the threads.
Reassembled again but the retaining piece was still too high.
It turns out the brass ring was overlapped about 1.5mm which added height.
I trimmed and filed off the extra and reassembled, same problem the retaining piece wouldn't go all the way down but I figured I could deal with it.
Then I put the light back together and click. . . nothing. I jumpered the battery to the body and it worked but with the switch on it didn't.
Disassembled the tailcap again and removed the switch. I put it on a meter to see if it was completing the circuit in one click position. It had intermittent results so I started looking closer at the leads from the switch to the circuit board. One of the legs was cracked so I resoldered it.
Put everything back together and click, nothing again. I took out the brass ring for one final check and still it didn't work but here is a photo of the height of the retainer piece without the brass ring installed. Unfortunately I didn't take a side view when I began so I don't know if the retainer was flush with the holes originally.
It appears that the switch itself is actually the problem. So now I need to see if I can get a replacement.
One thing I noticed is that the white spacer that fits over the switch rides pretty much on top of the solder joint. It is just a thought but it appears that the white spacer, once cranked down upon, can contribute to damaging the circuit board/switch connection. Perhaps the assembly flexes slightly when using the button in normal use and eventually something just gives. That would explain why mine worked fine at first then finally died. Also I think the retaining piece could stand to be thinner since even with the trimmed rubber boot and no brass ring installed it still interferes with the holes around the end of the tailcap.
All of this took about one hour and a lot of frustration. None of my other Jetbeams have given me any real problems over the years and I continue to use them regularly. This one has a lot of potential as an EDC but has been a real PITA so far. Since I am in Japan now and my dealer is Bug Out Gear in the US this will take a while with all the back and forth to get it right. They've taken care of me in the past so it shouldn't be a problem.
-LT
(click thumbnails to enlarge)
I have a standard ring removal tool designed for holes not scallops so it kept slipping off the scallops. I tried a number of sharp nose pliers that weren't that much better but I finally got it removed.
In the process I punched a hole in the rubber boot when the tool slipped. The boot is not as tough as I had hoped based on my tinkering with other brands of lights but at least Jetbeam provides a spare.
I put in the brass ring and reassembled but noticed the retaining piece wouldn't screw down at all. I couldn't get the threads to engage. So I took it apart again. The rubber boot itself was blocking the threads because it is the same size as the tube not the inside threads.
I took an angled dental pick and poked the edges of the boot past the first thread then reassembled; still not right the retaining piece was too high.
Took out the boot and trimmed to fit inside of the threads.
Reassembled again but the retaining piece was still too high.
It turns out the brass ring was overlapped about 1.5mm which added height.
I trimmed and filed off the extra and reassembled, same problem the retaining piece wouldn't go all the way down but I figured I could deal with it.
Then I put the light back together and click. . . nothing. I jumpered the battery to the body and it worked but with the switch on it didn't.
Disassembled the tailcap again and removed the switch. I put it on a meter to see if it was completing the circuit in one click position. It had intermittent results so I started looking closer at the leads from the switch to the circuit board. One of the legs was cracked so I resoldered it.
Put everything back together and click, nothing again. I took out the brass ring for one final check and still it didn't work but here is a photo of the height of the retainer piece without the brass ring installed. Unfortunately I didn't take a side view when I began so I don't know if the retainer was flush with the holes originally.
It appears that the switch itself is actually the problem. So now I need to see if I can get a replacement.
One thing I noticed is that the white spacer that fits over the switch rides pretty much on top of the solder joint. It is just a thought but it appears that the white spacer, once cranked down upon, can contribute to damaging the circuit board/switch connection. Perhaps the assembly flexes slightly when using the button in normal use and eventually something just gives. That would explain why mine worked fine at first then finally died. Also I think the retaining piece could stand to be thinner since even with the trimmed rubber boot and no brass ring installed it still interferes with the holes around the end of the tailcap.
All of this took about one hour and a lot of frustration. None of my other Jetbeams have given me any real problems over the years and I continue to use them regularly. This one has a lot of potential as an EDC but has been a real PITA so far. Since I am in Japan now and my dealer is Bug Out Gear in the US this will take a while with all the back and forth to get it right. They've taken care of me in the past so it shouldn't be a problem.
-LT
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