recDNA
Flashaholic
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2009
- Messages
- 8,761
On CSI on TV they use small flashlights most of the time but the big guns come out outdoors. Mostly Surefire.
NEED A CSI/SEARCH FLAHSLIGHT, any good recommendation is appreciated.
- Thread starter kenshin
- Start date
Help Support Candle Power Flashlight Forum
It seems your getting a good collection of flashlights
I've had no problem carrying my TN12 on my belt with other equipment and I don't think Viking will be that much bigger. I carry my M22 attached to my shoulder bag daily with no problem, though it won't fit the pocket like TN12 does. I can't recall any other light of the size of TN12 that doesn't step down, but I think PD35 is a good companion for TN12. I've read a little bit about Viking (Pro) lately and it seems a really good light if you need a thrower. It might be able to handle the heat better than TN12 too. You also can get an Olight M22 diffuser (or some other ~40mm) for it, so you can swap between the flood and throw if you need. They sell them for ~5$ in eBay. Oh, just noticed Armytek too manufactures diffusers for Viking so you've got an option.well, still waiting for my tn12 2014 and klarus mix7 (gift for family) to arrive . I'm defenetly buying the armytek Viking pro v3 (even if I don't like so much the size and way it looks) but still not sure if to buy the zebralight sc62 or the sc 600, I like the way the sc62 looks but I like the lumens output on the sc600. what you guys suggest ??
. I'm defenetly buying the armytek Viking pro v3 (even if I don't like so much the size and way it looks) but still not sure if to buy the zebralight sc62 or the sc 600, I like the way the sc62 looks but I like the lumens output on the sc600. what you guys suggest ??I have not read everything posted on this thread so if I make a point that has already been pointed out, my apologies.
By SC 600, do you mean the SC600 Mk II L2? If so, I'd like to point out that there is no "real world difference" in terms of output. the 100 lumen difference between the SC62(1000lm) and SC600 Mk II L2(1100lm) is negligible.
Feature wise, the SC62 is more compact, about half a centimeter shorter, a tad bit slimmer(adds to pocket-friendliness) and almost 50% lighter than the SC600 Mk II L2 without battery (40 and 78 grams, add ~45 for battery). The SC600 Mk II L2 is more of a throwy light with less spill beam. They are all equipped with PID thermal control so you don't need to worry about the light getting so hot that it melts. Experience wise, I own the SC62W and I absolutely love it and bring it with me to wherever I go. Keep in mind though, neither light has the momentary on "tactital" feature like your incoming tn12 does.
Welcome to the club:welcome:
By SC 600, do you mean the SC600 Mk II L2? If so, I'd like to point out that there is no "real world difference" in terms of output. the 100 lumen difference between the SC62(1000lm) and SC600 Mk II L2(1100lm) is negligible.
Feature wise, the SC62 is more compact, about half a centimeter shorter, a tad bit slimmer(adds to pocket-friendliness) and almost 50% lighter than the SC600 Mk II L2 without battery (40 and 78 grams, add ~45 for battery). The SC600 Mk II L2 is more of a throwy light with less spill beam. They are all equipped with PID thermal control so you don't need to worry about the light getting so hot that it melts. Experience wise, I own the SC62W and I absolutely love it and bring it with me to wherever I go. Keep in mind though, neither light has the momentary on "tactital" feature like your incoming tn12 does.
Welcome to the club:welcome:
for throw i will use the tn12 2014 or the Viking, really apreciate the info !!!! I'll get the sc62. now should I get the cool or neutral white ??? remember this light will be use to search for blood, ammo brass, foot prints, etc.
once again, thanks for the help !!!
Based on your needs you will need a high CRI SC62, giving you the best color rendition. The SC62 has three models: SC62(cool white), SC62W(neutral white) and SC62d(high CRI). CRI wise, SC62d>SC62W>SC62, BUT the SC62d sacrifices maximum output(320lm) to get the best colour rendition so you will find out that it's not as bright as its siblings. The SC62w is the 2nd best when it comes to CRI, with a maximum output of 930lm(generally neutral white LEDs produce ~7% less light in terms of lumen than LEDs with a cool white tint), but then again the 70 difference is negligible when compared to the SC62D. Since you have other lights "throwing" for you, I would say go for the SC62d.
Beamshots of the SC62 and SC62W can be found here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ebralight-SC62-cw-and-nw-images-and-Beamshots
but then again the 70 lumen difference is negligible when compared to the SC62.
Oops, typo
KeepingItLight
Flashlight Enthusiast
Almost all of the 1000-lumen, 1x 18650 flashlights that are designed to have a good mix of flood and throw will have some sort of step-down. Some use a timed step-down. Better models use a thermal sensor, stepping down (and back up) as the temperature requires (or allows). Most of these lights cannot give a full hour of runtime at 1000 lumens. They just don't have enough heat-sinking to dissipate all the heat their turbo modes generate. Flashlights designed primarily as throwers do better. Those lights house a deep reflector in a large head, so there is more room for large heat sinks.
I went shopping last month with the intention of buying a Zebralight. When I found that the neutral-white 18650 model I wanted was not in inventory, I purchased my second choice, the Nitecore P36. It's a nice 2x 18650 light that runs the neutral-white MT-G2 LED. It claims a 2000-lumen max output, but the reviewer selfbuilt tested it at 1850 lm. His test also showed it dropping into a gently declining direct-drive output mode relatively quickly in its highest modes.
The P36 has 10 different output levels, nominally ranging between 20 and 2000 lumens. The brightest mode, level 10, slipped into direct drive almost immediately after power up in selfbuilt's test. Level 9, the next brightest level, tested at 1600 lumens, and stayed flat for about 20-25 minutes. Level 8 tested at 1300 lumens, and produced that output continuously for an hour. From there, it entered a direct-drive decline, reaching 50% an hour later.
Level 7 may be the level you want. It produced a well-regulated 950 lumens for a solid two hours. After that, it began falling, reaching a very useable 50% output 45 minutes later.
Note that selfbuilt measured runtimes using a pair of 3100mAh batteries. Switching to 3400mAh batteries should extend his runtimes by almost 10%.
Nitecore recently released a new light, the EC4, running a cool white XM-L2 LED. It uses 2x 18650 batteries, and weighs about 2/3 as much as the P36. The smaller size and weight may bring it into range for you. The smaller weight, however, may also mean that it cannot maintain it's maximum 1000-lumen output without stepping down. I have yet to see any data on its runtimes.
Nitecore also announced—but is not yet shipping—the EC4S. It will use the neutral white MT-G2 LED in the same body as the EC4. I will likely buy that one.
I hope this info helps. If you can get by with the step-downs, Zebralight may be a good choice for you. But if you must have a continuous 1000 lumens, you may be drawn to one of the 2x 18650 formats.
Good luck!
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MikeF
Enlightened
The Nitecore EC4 looks very interesting, depending upon beamshots. Their promo page at the bottom of the link ^^ shows a shot that looks like a very tight spot. I really like that they put a 1/4-20 socket on the tail too. I need more spill with a nice fat even hot spot. like my Zebralight SC600MII, SC6330 and Lupine Betty TL-1 make. I will search for beamshots. I hate feeling like I'm looking through a tube if all there is is concentrated hot spot.
KeepingItLight
Flashlight Enthusiast
As I suggested above, if the OP finds the EC4 light enough for everyday duty, and can wait to see what the MT-G2 version looks like, he may like it better than the EC4.
The MT-G2 emitter is significantly larger than the XM-L2. By nature, then, it is more floody than the XM-L2. Nitecore could try to compensate for this by using different reflectors in the EC4 (XM-L2) and the EC4S (MT-G2). Whatever they do, however, my guess is that the beam from the EC4S will be a fine "general purpose" beam, with a nice blend of flood and throw.
The Fenix TK35UE, which also uses the MT-G2 in a 2x 18650 package, and the Nitecore P36 describe above, both have a very good mix of throw and flood. In an unique set of areal photos posted last month, 19 Flashlight Aerial Beam Shot Showdown!, reviewer JohnnyMac included this picture showing the beam of the Fenix TK35UE:
If forced to speculate, I would guess that the smaller size of the EC4S will mandate a smaller reflector. If true, that would mean that the EC4S would have more flood than the TK35UE.
these are the first, hopefully many many more to come in a few weeks !!!
http://i474.photobucket.com/albums/rr109/pandyicf/Mobile Uploads/image_11.jpg
http://i474.photobucket.com/albums/rr109/pandyicf/Mobile Uploads/image_9.jpg
the first one is my very first (and still working) innova luxon 2 cr123 (first gen I think), thrunite tn12 2014, ultrafire (Chinese knock off but still working) and the 3 klarus (two as gift and the third with lanyard is what I EDC)
http://i474.photobucket.com/albums/rr109/pandyicf/Mobile Uploads/image_11.jpg
http://i474.photobucket.com/albums/rr109/pandyicf/Mobile Uploads/image_9.jpg
the first one is my very first (and still working) innova luxon 2 cr123 (first gen I think), thrunite tn12 2014, ultrafire (Chinese knock off but still working) and the 3 klarus (two as gift and the third with lanyard is what I EDC)
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As I suggested above, if the OP finds the EC4 light enough for everyday duty, and can wait to see what the MT-G2 version looks like, he may like it better than the EC4.
The MT-G2 emitter is significantly larger than the XM-L2. By nature, then, it is more floody than the XM-L2. Nitecore could try to compensate for this by using different reflectors in the EC4 (XM-L2) and the EC4S (MT-G2). Whatever they do, however, my guess is that the beam from the EC4S will be a fine "general purpose" beam, with a nice blend of flood and throw.
The Fenix TK35UE, which also uses the MT-G2 in a 2x 18650 package, and the Nitecore P36 describe above, both have a very good mix of throw and flood. In an unique set of areal photos posted last month, 19 Flashlight Aerial Beam Shot Showdown!, reviewer JohnnyMac included this picture showing the beam of the Fenix TK35UE:
If forced to speculate, I would guess that the smaller size of the EC4S will mandate a smaller reflector. If true, that would mean that the EC4S would have more flood than the TK35UE.
that beam shoot is impressive indeed, but the flashlight looks kind of big :-/
aginthelaw
Flashlight Enthusiast
even though you asked for a 1 x 18650 light the fenix ld50 is nice and flat, and features 2 18650's side by side with 2 emitters side by side. in a pinch you can run one 18650 in either chamber by itself. i pocket carry it on my walks and it has an excellent clip for belt carry or you can use the holster.
in reference to using unprotected batteries, you just have to know when to quit. if you can do a test while you're not in a work situation with the batteries you have and a good charger that can give you a voltage readout on your batteries, you can guess when it's time to throw a charge on it. i use my lights mostly on high with a few minutes on turbo every once an hour. depending on the light, i'll know if i can get thru a shift without having to charge them, or i can go a few days without charging. some lights have a low voltage feature that will tell you its time for a charge. just put them on a charger as soon as possible, when the voltage dips below 3.7v
check out selfbuilts reviews of flooders (look at the ceiling bounce numbers) and mtg2 lights for lighting up a room
in reference to using unprotected batteries, you just have to know when to quit. if you can do a test while you're not in a work situation with the batteries you have and a good charger that can give you a voltage readout on your batteries, you can guess when it's time to throw a charge on it. i use my lights mostly on high with a few minutes on turbo every once an hour. depending on the light, i'll know if i can get thru a shift without having to charge them, or i can go a few days without charging. some lights have a low voltage feature that will tell you its time for a charge. just put them on a charger as soon as possible, when the voltage dips below 3.7v
check out selfbuilts reviews of flooders (look at the ceiling bounce numbers) and mtg2 lights for lighting up a room
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i bought the thrunite charger for 18650, it tells the battery voltage when you connected and the batteries are protected, so for now I'm good. one thing to tell about the battery is that if you look closely you can see under the shrink wrapped plastic that has the thrunite name and info, you can see that the battery per say is green and have some numbers on it, I think this is the Panasonic 18650, just that thrunite puts a plastic cover over the original battery. a co-worker have bought a few of the originals Panasonic 18650 and they look kind of similar but not entirely sure. I'll check that out later.
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finally my zebralight are here !!
i will post some more pics later. there's a lot of difference in the tint of the sc62w and the thrunite tn12 2014 neutral white even thou there "white" lights and the way you fell the heat in you're hand from each light, the sc52 and the KLARUS mix7 are almost the same in light tint and heat.
i will post some more pics later. there's a lot of difference in the tint of the sc62w and the thrunite tn12 2014 neutral white even thou there "white" lights and the way you fell the heat in you're hand from each light, the sc52 and the KLARUS mix7 are almost the same in light tint and heat.
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