New Surefire e1d led defender?

[kandiklover]

The stock clips on the E1B are shorter than the clips on the E1D and EB1, that's why they carry deeper in the pocket. However, they are interchangeable. The newer ones have a little slit at the bend for attaching lanyards.

Lanyard sounds nice, would love to carry it necklace style on one given how small it is. Though I would probably put the lanyard through the one of the holes on the tailcap.

 

[mk2rocco]

Has anyone run the light on 4.2v? I'm thinking about boring my e1d body for 18350 cells

 

[skyfire]

Has anyone run the light on 4.2v? I'm thinking about boring my e1d body for 18350 cells

Boring an e-series body is quite difficult. The problem is the threads for the bezel can become too thin and its strength becomes compromised. A lot of torque can be applied if over tightening, which can tear the threads clean off.
Its the reason why we don't see more e-series lights bored for 18650.

But I have read in this thread somewhere that members are successfully using the e1d head with a single li-ion.

 

[IsaacL]

Boring an e-series body is quite difficult. The problem is the threads for the bezel can become too thin and its strength becomes compromised. A lot of torque can be applied if over tightening, which can tear the threads clean off.
Its the reason why we don't see more e-series lights bored for 18650.

But I have read in this thread somewhere that members are successfully using the e1d head with a single li-ion.

Ditto. I'd get some LFP's if you want to run it on rechargeable cells.

 

[M I K]

........... I'm thinking about boring my e1d body for 18350 cells

What skyfire had to say in reply #383 is correct.

One thing I'd like to mention for you, I absolutely DO NOT recommend boring a SureFire E series body to accept an 18 mm battery as the body wall under the head end O-ring is too thin for it also. Yes, there are machinists that bore the E series for the 18 mm's. However, I would suspect if you took one of those lights and laid it on a couch and sat on it, the head would probably break off. But hey, if you want to try one out, good luck.

Something else to bare in mind......if you are looking for more run time for the E1 head you want to use, and your pants don't have any pockets to carry extra batts with you, you can always put that head on an E2 series body and run it with a 17670 battery as the voltage will probably be correct for it. Run time wise, a 17670 will run a SureFire E2 for 5 hours of useful light. I know, I've timed one.

 

[mk2rocco]

Thanks for the advice, I definitely do not want to weaken the body of the light.

 

[Bullzeyebill]

Try the new 16650's. They offer more mAh's.

Bill

 

[IsaacL]

Right on MIK! I found a post I wrote about this issue awhile back.

The problem with E-series and 18mm cells is the relation of bore diameter to minor thread diameter. The difference leaves you with about 0.45mm of material with a 18.65mm bore. You can make the bore a little smaller but you'll start having fit issues with most "18mm" cells. The area under the o-ring is also very very thin (I don't have the exact numbers in front of me right now). If you do a search, you should find some cases where body tubes have actually broken at the threads. This is the reason why there aren't a ton of 18mm compatible E-series lights. About 10 years ago, Tranquility Base pioneered the E-series split body, which solved this issue...

Here are the actually numbers for anyone interested. Physics sucks sometimes.

IMO, the reason that you see (almost) no E-series tubes for 18650 is the O-ring diameter ... instead of .776"-.776" on everything else SF, the E-series O-ring measures only .750".

If a "normal" bore diameter is used (like .738" for 18650) that leaves .012" divided by two (walls), so each wall is paper thin - .006". Even titanium has a limit.

It may be possible to use an ultra small bore diameter, one that is almost a size-on-size fit for a particular brand of 18650. Most AW18650's measure .723"-.724". Boring or reaming to .725" might allow one type of battery to work. This could work as long as the battery does not swell up or otherwise get permanently lodged in the tube. I can understand why Don doesn't want the hassle...

 

[xdayv]

Try the new 16650's. They offer more mAh's.

Bill

I like what the 16650 can do to some of my SFs! But my limited experience with using 16650 on the E2D Defender Ultra is that it doesn't consistently power at max, it takes a few cycles (high-low cycle) inorder to achieve an acceptable max output. Hence, stopped using it, back to CR123s.

 

[Sean]

I've had very good luck using my E1D with 16650s & an E2D body. No problems at all. Great combo.

 

[slumber]

I've had very good luck using my E1D with 16650s & an E2D body. No problems at all. Great combo.

Same here. It's my favorite work light....2 1/4 hours of runtime at full brightness.

 

[xdayv]

I've had very good luck using my E1D with 16650s & an E2D body. No problems at all. Great combo.

Same here. It's my favorite work light....2 1/4 hours of runtime at full brightness.

Guys, how about using the E2D head on an E1D body, is this techinically safe to use?

 

[Grizzman]

Guys, how about using the E2D head on an E1D body, is this techinically safe to use?

Sure, that's a safe solution. Output would be slightly, but not likely visibly, reduced. I've been running an LX2 from a 17670 or 16650 for years.

 

[xdayv]

Sure, that's a safe solution. Output would be slightly, but not likely visibly, reduced. I've been running an LX2 from a 17670 or 16650 for years.

Thanks, I might just do that. And yes agree, the 16650 has been heaven-sent for guilt-free lumens on SF.

 

[recDNA]

Anybody know amp draw on CR123A on high output before step down?

 

[slumber]

Anybody know amp draw on CR123A on high output before step down?

I'm getting 1.7ish on the initial blast, but it starts to decline quickly down to around .70ish. This pic was about 3 seconds after turn on with a fresh CR123. This is if I'm doing it right. [emoji16]

 

[IsaacL]

1.7A pulse current, dropping to <1A sounds about right. Thanks!

 

[RobertMM]

I'm getting 1.7ish on the initial blast, but it starts to decline quickly down to around .70ish. This pic was about 3 seconds after turn on with a fresh CR123. This is if I'm doing it right. [emoji16]

Did you test current on low mode as well? I'm thinking it would give me an idea on actual runtime on low mode.

 

[slumber]

Did you test current on low mode as well? I'm thinking it would give me an idea on actual runtime on low mode.

I'll have to verify when I'm home, but recall it being around .03. I'll let you know.

 

[RobertMM]

Well that makes sense, at 30 mA draw simple math gives us 47 hours with a 1400mAh primary, as rated by Surefire.
Thanks.