Noctigon Meteor M43

trailhunter

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Hi !
There is extended instruction for M43 , but it in Russian.

Try 12 fast click and hold. If something wrong with turbo , light would blink 2 times.
If so at first you should disassemble tail cap . and clean contact between host and copper board.
If it is not help try another battery.
Yes, it blinks two times... something wrong with my meteor then? :*(
 

AEDe

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Try to clean contact between copper board and aluminium host in tail cap with sandpaper or eraser. 95% that problem there. At the point of contact of different metals, corrosion usually occurs.
 

NPL

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Took my Meteor 219c out last night for Halloween with my daughter. Was using the simple UI. Loved how the light fades up or down between different settings. Knurling on handle was super grippy, and the hold for momentary turbo was super convenient. Aside from UI, having 6000 lumens of neutral white high CRI light was spectacular. All the colorful maple leaves were lit up like paintings on the sidewalk.

As for CCT, felt like it's a touch too cool at the lowest setting, and warmer on high/turbo.

There are a lot of new lights being released these days, but I am thoroughly impressed with my Meteor and feel it will remain a very special light in my collection.
 

Keitho

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Happy to see M43's back in stock, intl outdoors, "68 units" in stock as of a couple minutes ago. I just picked up another Nichia version that I...um...need...'cause I didn't have a grey one?
 
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NPL

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Similar lights from Fenix sell for substantially more money, are larger, less refined and limited emiter options. The M43 is a steal for 98$!

I think if Hank keeps making it with latest LEDs, this light is timeless. :)
 

ma tumba

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Actually, I think a great latest led candidate for m43 would be nichia optisolis. Regardless of what nichia says, each optisolis can run at 1amp
 

NPL

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Actually, I think a great latest led candidate for m43 would be nichia optisolis. Regardless of what nichia says, each optisolis can run at 1amp
How would you get it on the mcpcb?
I would love a 4500k e21a as well.
 

The_Driver

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In the turbo mode each LED gets 2A. The Optisolis wouldn't work, the E21A would be ok (but very close to its maximum when the light is warm).
 

plata0190

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Anybody buy an m43 with SST20 high CRI options?
Yeah I goten the SST20 in 3000K CCT/95CRI version. Its really bright, and also qualitys high as well. Id consider it a step higher than nichia 219BT-V1 in the quality, as beams less fogged causing less eye strain. Theres a tiny greenish tint, but considerably low where fits perfectly the other colors which composes the white. Just found that at low currents doesn offer a good CRI or at least the beams quality a bit low comparing to Osram oslon square and nichia 219BT-V1 both Hi CRI that I've owned. Increasing the current its a beast ;)

Beams reach is high, so its a bit narrow and suitable for distance llumination, less floody than XP-G2 S4 that I still prefer on my M43. :thumbsup:
 

NPL

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Interesting that the quality of light degrades at lower current. Luckily when I use the Meteor it's usually because I want more light than what my topical size EDC can sustain. Do you think your SST20 3000k has more throw than your xpg2?
 

plata0190

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Interesting that the quality of light degrades at lower current. Luckily when I use the Meteor it's usually because I want more light than what my topical size EDC can sustain. Do you think your SST20 3000k has more throw than your xpg2?
yes sure, XP-G2 S4 D5 and SST20 J5 offer in order 7600lm and 5400l (ceiling bounce measure and other lights comparison). PBI is around 30K cd/m on first and 32K cd/m on second, so reachs a bit higher on SST20, despite XP-G2 throws about the same but offers a completly floody beam, very usefull when riding a bike in the woods at night.
 

NPL

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Question for m43 owners, can someone please explain to me how 8A current on turbo yields 6600 lumens on the 219c?
 

Keitho

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Beautifully. It takes quite awhile for it to gently ramp down as voltage drops. Most of the time, I don't run extended amounts of time on max current--just dropping the brightness a small amount in the "advanced" UI extends runtimes quite a bit.
 

NPL

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It's 7.5A per cell, 30A in total from all cells together.
The manual shows 8amps draw for turbo. (Does not specify battery)
If the LEDs are setup 4p3s, that's 2 amps per triple in series.

I also thought that batteries are in parallel, and light will run on as few as 1 cell. Are you sure it pulls 7.5 amps per cell?
 

The_Driver

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The manual shows 8amps draw for turbo. (Does not specify battery)
If the LEDs are setup 4p3s, that's 2 amps per triple in series.

I also thought that batteries are in parallel, and light will run on as few as 1 cell. Are you sure it pulls 7.5 amps per cell?

Yes the batteries are in parallel. In a parallel configuration the current is divided equally if you use identical batteries. It pulls 7.5A per cell according the the manual (this depends on the Vf of the used LEDs because it's a constant current driver, the new Nichia LEDs with a low Vf will reduce the current pulled from the battery). This means ~30A from all batteries together (or 30A form a single cell if you only put in one).

The LEDs are indeed connected in 4P3S, it's a boost driver. 10.5V * 2A * 4 = 84W on the LED side with high-Vf LEDs (XP-G2).
7.5A * 3.5V * 4 =105W on the battery side. So the driver has an efficiency of around 84W / 105W = 80%. That's a very realistic value, but not a very good one.
 
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