Poor man's surefire perfect beam

[AtomicX]

VERY nice pictures. As one who has beeninto photography for years... I can appreciate these great mico shots. thank you! :wave:

 

[Warhoggie]

Oh, almost forgot...I tried to frost these GE brand bulbs bought from Target...no good! Seems like this acid can't etch quartz. After 10 minutes, still no frost!!! BTW I ran this bulb with 14.4v, and it is pretty bright. I purposely tested the stock plastic reflector with it. Started to melt in less than 45 seconds.

 

[nemul]

I think the one with the bottom frosted would work great... smooth out the filament reflection while letting full brightness out the front of the bulb... just get the frosting past the filament then leave the rest of the top open..

 

[CLHC]

What pictures eh Warhoggie? I'd like to show mine too, but unfortunately I don't have a digital camera. . .

The "super bulbs" like the WA01111 that I did, took me a few tries before it started to "mist". Since the instructions call for working temperatures of 70ºF, I ran the bottle under hot water for a while, then dipped the bulb half way from cap on down. Left the etching cream on for a minute then washed it off. Did it this way 3 times. The last step in this case, I left it on for 7 minutes. Starting to get a feel for how this stuff works. Well, I like it!

 

[Warhoggie]

Heehee, actually i think you can pickup a decent 3.0 MegaPixel digital camera for less than $80 now. Even cheaper with a 1.3MP.

I will be doing the WA1274 next. I just don't have a reflector that can focus the beam tight right now. With 7 cells, it was very white in color compared to the Pelican D.

What pictures eh Warhoggie? I'd like to show mine too, but unfortunately I don't have a digital camera. . .

The "super bulbs" like the WA01111 that I did, took me a few tries before it started to "mist". Since the instructions call for working temperatures of 70ºF, I ran the bottle under hot water for a while, then dipped the bulb half way from cap on down. Left the etching cream on for a minute then washed it off. Did it this way 3 times. The last step in this case, I left it on for 7 minutes. Starting to get a feel for how this stuff works. Well, I like it!

 

[NikolaTesla]

This chemical stuff works like a charm. Smells bad, Got to be REAL careful but the light bulbs respond real well. Tried it my self. The stuff cost $25 but can make some beam quality improvements. Neat idea.

 

[Warhoggie]

Hey NikolaTesla,
do you mind sharing which brand did you used? The stuff I tried did not have any smell at all.

This chemical stuff works like a charm. Smells bad, Got to be REAL careful but the light bulbs respond real well. Tried it my self. The stuff cost $25 but can make some beam quality improvements. Neat idea.

 

[NikolaTesla]

That stuff from Michael's - Armour Etch. Played havoc with my sinus. I have a bench with exhaust hood I use next time. That HF stuff is not kid stuff even in gel/paste. It do work but rather be safe than sorry. Florine and Chlorine are super active and will work havoc on your sinus. I got a few whiffs out of that bottle and it was more than I care for. Maybe you had good airflow/ ventilation by you.

 

[Niteowl]

NT, sounds like you got the big bottle, got a lot of frosting to do, eh?

Warhoggie, does the reflector you're using got the little hole (no cam) in it? It look like the Pelican bulbs will work with the reflector I got from Light Edge if it does. I'm going to try the ROP with a 6C Mag.

I put together a 3x123 for a relative and used the Mag krypton 6D bulb. I used the 6D so it'd last as she won't need a blaster, just something dependable for the truck. The frosted bulb finished it off nicely, got rave reviews.

Again, great idea Warhoggie! Oh yes, nice pics.

 

[Warhoggie]

Thanks Niteowl, and yes, the ROP will indeed fit LightEdge's small opening reflectors. I'll also let you guys on a little secret. I been using the low power ROP bulb + seven AAs, and it's almost as bright as the Hi power bulb.

I'm sure this will shorten the life of the bulb, but it's been about three days of play with it, and it seems ok. I also tested the Hi power bulb + seven AAs, and the light is just sheer devastating. The batteries used are hot off the charger too, so voltage should be slightly higher. Using 7 Sanyo 2500mAH. These bulbs can really hang! Can anyone calculate the lumens with these setup?

Also i been using a whooping 16.8volts on those GE 12v bulbs pictured above, and these bulb will take the punishment. Although the heat generated is starting to darken the opening / hole on my test lightedge reflector.

Dang! I really need to learn how to calculate lumens.

NT, sounds like you got the big bottle, got a lot of frosting to do, eh?

Warhoggie, does the reflector you're using got the little hole (no cam) in it? It look like the Pelican bulbs will work with the reflector I got from Light Edge if it does. I'm going to try the ROP with a 6C Mag.

I put together a 3x123 for a relative and used the Mag krypton 6D bulb. I used the 6D so it'd last as she won't need a blaster, just something dependable for the truck. The frosted bulb finished it off nicely, got rave reviews.

Again, great idea Warhoggie! Oh yes, nice pics.

NikolaTesla, Yes, I did make sure there were ventilation. You are also correct. These procedures are not for kids or anyone who can't or won't follow rules safely. It is best to slow down, be prepared and take your time through the entire process.

That stuff from Michael's - Armour Etch. Played havoc with my sinus. I have a bench with exhaust hood I use next time. That HF stuff is not kid stuff even in gel/paste. It do work but rather be safe than sorry. Florine and Chlorine are super active and will work havoc on your sinus. I got a few whiffs out of that bottle and it was more than I care for. Maybe you had good airflow/ ventilation by you.

 

[webley445]

Wonder how frost the lens compares to the old "write rite" trick.

Am wanting to try this with a few different bulbs but am wondering if it would be better to frost the lens?

Can we get some beam shots? Before and afters? Would like to see results of frosting bulbs/lens for varying effects of lighting?

Will someone eventually have some to sell?

 

[andrewwynn]

we have to try on a lens vs the bulb.. i was very annoyed when i tried lens frosting tricks.. it really makes the light terrible to view from an off-axis situation.. so the holder of the light it's ok.. but it makes the light IMPOSSIBLE TO BE NEAR for all other people, quite a tragedy.

On our first attempt at 3 or 5 minutes.. we could barely tell that the lamp was starting to etch.. i think we settled on like 20 or 30 minutes to etch the quartz that the WA lamps are apparently made out of i can't remember but they sure are neat..

considering the overdrive we run the lamps at i'm pretty confident in filament failure still being the primary cause of bulb demise.

-awr

ps.. yeah we do plan on taking some before/after pictures.. especially comparing the obvious.. frosted bulb in smooth reflector vs clear bulb in frosty (stippled) reflector.

the stippled reflector does a better job of smoothing the beam than the frosted lamp... but probably knocks down the center spot more.. so the frosting is a very nice in-between.. i think when we get a couple bulbs frosted 1/2 way it might even be better.

Oh.. another possibility for frosting that may not be as hazardous.. but you def. have to wear eye protection.. they sell this neat kit for like $20 to frost class with 'sandblast in a can'.. i've only seen it on infomercials but that might work even better and faster.. mask off teh bottom and spray around in a circle.

OH... here's a very big thing..

we took the 1154 bulb which had the most gawd awful problem of the lens on the front of the bulb projecting the filament onto the wall.. and turned it into an extremely useful light from a 14.4V host.. 1360 bulb lumen.. a little more yellow than the mag85 pushed really hard.. but SIX TIMES the lamp life!

-awr

 

[CLHC]

. . .they sell this neat kit for like $20 to frost class with 'sandblast in a can'. . .

Yes they sell those at Michael's too! I was thinking of getting one to try out. Maybe I'll do that and post here since the title of this thread is "Poor Man's SureFire Perfect Beam"

 

[webley445]

we have to try on a lens vs the bulb.. i was very annoyed when i tried lens frosting tricks.. it really makes the light terrible to view from an off-axis situation.. so the holder of the light it's ok.. but it makes the light IMPOSSIBLE TO BE NEAR for all other people, quite a tragedy.

Would this be a good analogy? When you remove the lamp shade of an incan table lamp lamp and it is blinding to use up close?

On our first attempt at 3 or 5 minutes.. we could barely tell that the lamp was starting to etch.. i think we settled on like 20 or 30 minutes to etch the quartz that the WA lamps are apparently made out of i can't remember but they sure are neat..

considering the overdrive we run the lamps at i'm pretty confident in filament failure still being the primary cause of bulb demise.

Ah, so the WA's will work?

i think when we get a couple bulbs frosted 1/2 way it might even be better.

My thought is using the frosting as a means of making the stock M*gs useable for those who either do not want to or cannot get into the mods that have been so popular of late.

My current interest lies in using a 2C body with CR123's to make a nice portable "flood" torch. Of course if being able to come out with some "throw" capability, though not in the WA bulb league, would be nice too. Meaning at least some of the focusing capability of the cammed reflector. If nothing else perhaps being able to adjust the size of the spot.

So I take it that frosting only the bottom half of the bulbs helps to eliminate that gawd awful filament artifact (as you ponited out)? This would be a vast improvement for the stock M*gs as is, imho.

... just noticed I am still spelling M*g this way, old habit from the past when there was alot of prejudice against the M*g

 

[andrewwynn]

oops didn't see some of the questions directed at me:

it's more like taking a flashlight where you aim out in space and don't see the reflected beam close up.. than putting paper in front of it so you see the reflection.

if you are off-axis you don't see the light at all.. but if you frost the lens you see the light from a 180deg. angle.

We frosted about a dozen WAs the other day.. mostly 1185s but a coupld 1060s and an 1111 or two i believe.

we frosted the whole bulb.. don't know if it's helpful to 1/2 frost the lamp or not.

once frosted, mostly 'focus' is just for fine-tuning the spot.


-awr

 

[Warhoggie]

Hey webley445,
I don't think that frosting of the glass lens in front of the flashlight is going to fly. I tested it by having a frosted glass in front of the flashlight, and all i got was unfocused scattered soft light around the front of the flashlight. I would say it's more of a really bright glow, then a flood light.

 

[andrewwynn]

it has to be just enough frosting, the film that goes over a PDA works better for testing.. or just use some scotch tape (satin)... a few stripes across a glass lens would give you the idea.

-awr

 

[pertinax]

Where to get the cream.

Michael's does indeed carry this Armour etching cream, but at least around here, it's locked up in a cabinet, and only the manager has a key. It is NOT out on the shelf with the transparent glass paints, and glass sandblasting kits.

If you don't ask a clerk (and even if you do-- I had to ask several to find one that knew what I was talking about), you probably won't find it in the stores. Ask the manager, or ask the clerk if they keep it locked up with the other hazardous materials.

 

[PlayboyJoeShmoe]

Re: Where to get the cream.

I have refined my technique as I use this stuff more.

I have a (very bad brain!) medical clamping plier looking thing that I use on Bi-Pins, and a different similar device with rubber band clamping for PR bulbs.

I dip the bulb and kind of twist and swirl it to get full coverage. On Bi-Pins I do usually about 20 minutes first time, and on PRs I'm down to less than 1.5 Minutes.

The ones I did initially with a Q-Tip I found to have holidays that still let some artifacts out. By the new method I have great success!

I really must :thanks: :goodjob: :wow: :bow: :twothumbs and just generally THANK the members of CPF who got me going on this!!!

 

[andrewwynn]

Re: Where to get the cream.

We frosted about a dozen lamps and had to discover ourselves also that it takes quite a while with quartz to etch, but it makes a fantastic lamp in the end.. most improved award goes to the 1254 and runner-up goes to the 1060 in the mag charger.

-awr