RCR/IMR in Surefire L1?

[Vox Clamatis in Deserto]

Bumping an old thread. I just received a Gen 6 L1 and I'm checking if anyone has had any long term issues running a 16340?

I've got a Gen 6 L1, it appears to have a late version of the XR-E emitter and it runs fine on an AW RCR123. Beautiful tint and better white wall pattern than some of the earlier Gens in my opinion. I've got a couple of blue beam L1's that seem to project a stark square image of the LED die on the wall. Unlike with the white LED's I believe there is no phosphor layer in the red, green and blue LED's.

I think I've burned out an E1B with an RCR a few years ago though. Don't know if the heat melted a solder connection or if a semiconductor or resistor blew on the circuit board. I used to buy the E1B's for gifts but discovered that most folks would never replace the batteries since they were pricey at local stores.

The earlier L1's that I have are all running on primaries. I hesitate to experiment with higher voltage cells on these classic lights. Of course, the Gen 6 L1 is now a classic as well and the two-stage tailcap design is almost gone from the SF catalog.

My Gen 6 L1 is hard anodized but the body almost looks black in contrast to the head and tail. I didn't think any black Gen 6 L1's were made. Still, the color of the body appears close to that of a black six digit serial number E2E on the desk.

 

[RobertMM]

I used only an AW IMR16340 on my Gen6 L1, even completed some runtime tests(got 35-40min on high, 5.5hrs on low).
No issues whatsoever.

 

[Vox Clamatis in Deserto]

I just did a runtime test on my Gen 6 L1 with a well worn AW RCR123. I've got some IMR's but this test was with the black label AW rechargeable 16340. On high the light lasted for a little over 40 minutes, flickered for less than a minute then shut down. After shutdown the light would come back on in low with a steady beam for several minutes. When switched back up to high the light would flicker then shut down again. I didn't want to run down the battery any more but I was pleased that you get ample warning that high is about to shut down and you have enough residual output on low for egress and a battery change. Some lights just suddenly go dark on RCR's when the juice runs out.

The L1 got warm but seemed to be thermally stable. One earlier CPF post listed the advertised output on high of the Gen 6 L1 as 65 lumens, it appeared to be at least twice that on the RCR123 to my uncalibrated eyes.

My Gen 6 L1 seems to be a late model, it doesn't have the frosty optic and it appears to have the later version of the Cree XR-E. Serial number is just below 19000.

 

[mk2rocco]

Mine has a unfrosted optic as well (~A18000), it is very bright with one AW 16340. It is really up to modern standards with a rechargeable! One thing I noticed is when I use the tailcap from my A2 the low is much lower, it's a really nice EDC now.

 

[RobertMM]

One earlier CPF post listed the advertised output on high of the Gen 6 L1 as 65 lumens, it appeared to be at least twice that on the RCR123 to my uncalibrated eyes.

Flashlightguide's graph on the L1, E1B and EB1 does show that the 6th Gen L1 kicks ***, ouputting just a bit higher than the E1Backup for a bit longer runtime too, both on primaries.

Judging by the scale, L1 reaches 120 lumens peak compared to 110 for EB1, and drops to 50% at the 120minute mark, compared to 100minutes for the E1B.

 

[Espionage Studio]

Long live the L1!

 

[Kestrel]

Long live the L1!

You forgot the associated prior line, "The L1 is dead;" lol.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_king_is_dead,_long_live_the_king!

 

[Espionage Studio]

lolz, good one.

 

[SpyderHS08]

Great thread! I have some AW 16340s on the way and want to try them in my gen6 L1. Any more comments on it? Also what if I do "smoke" the led, is that a simple or cheap fix by one of our fine modders here? Because I could always just run a 16340 and if something bad happens send it away to be upgraded or repaired or is this not a good plan?

 

[MBentz]

I need a sixth generation L1 for the collection. Not many options for the ******* child of the L1s, generation five.

 

[novice]

Not many options for the ******* child of the L1s, generation five.

I have a milky-modded gen 5. I'm curious, is it regarded more lowly than all of the other gens of this light, and why?

 

[archimedes]

Gen5 is mostly just larger than Gen6, and less "stylish" than Gen1 - Gen3 ....

And Gen4 was the transition between the older (battery tube) and newer (bezel assembly) styles.

 

[SpyderHS08]

Which AW 16340 are suggested for these L1's? The red IMR 550mah or black ICR 750 mah, both show 3.7 volts. What's the difference??

 

[tjhabak]

Great thread! I have some AW 16340s on the way and want to try them in my gen6 L1. Any more comments on it? Also what if I do "smoke" the led, is that a simple or cheap fix by one of our fine modders here? Because I could always just run a 16340 and if something bad happens send it away to be upgraded or repaired or is this not a good plan?

I recently had Tana turn my Gen 6 into a triple with a clicky switch and Dr Jones H17F driver with Lucidrv2 firmware. While this wasn't cheap, it is totally awesome and I love it. Such a cool little powerhouse, a d the new AW IMR batteries 16340's really make it shine (literally and figuratively)! Lol!

 

[SpyderHS08]

I recently had Tana turn my Gen 6 into a triple with a clicky switch and Dr Jones H17F driver with Lucidrv2 firmware. While this wasn't cheap, it is totally awesome and I love it. Such a cool little powerhouse, a d the new AW IMR batteries 16340's really make it shine (literally and figuratively)! Lol!

Lucky you!! I love looking at those triple led lights of his. Very nice. Im just not sure I can afford it, lol. What kind of beam do those triple LED put out? Floody or focused hot spot with a little spill?

 

[RobertMM]

Triples with optics are bound to be floody, but also throwy due to raw output.
Someone described them as "punchy flood", with very good spill as well.

 

[Kestrel]

Which AW 16340 are suggested for these L1's? The red IMR 550mah or black ICR 750 mah, both show 3.7 volts. What's the difference??

The red IMR's are the ones that get used for this alternate configuration. While I have not myself tried it, I gather that at 3.7+ Vin (above the manufacturer rating), the driver goes into direct-drive and the cell dumps considerably more current. This situation could easily deliver more than 2C from the relatively small LiCo/ICR cell (depending on the Vf of the LED), for a less-safe configuration. Furthermore, it is unknown if the slightly-larger-diameter protected LiCo cells will consistently fit inside the L1 body.

 

[SpyderHS08]

The red IMR's are the ones that get used for this alternate configuration. While I have not myself tried it, I gather that at 3.7+ Vin (above the manufacturer rating), the driver goes into direct-drive and the cell dumps considerably more current. This situation could easily deliver more than 2C from the relatively small LiCo/ICR cell (depending on the Vf of the LED), for a less-safe configuration. Furthermore, it is unknown if the slightly-larger-diameter protected LiCo cells will consistently fit inside the L1 body.

Thank you sir! So the LiCo would be the protected black AW 16340? Got it! Hmm now to debate to try an run the red unprotected in the L1 lol decisions decisions! I guess if I poof it I can always get a new LED installed from one of these fine gentlemen here though!

And Robert, thanks for the info, sounds like a nice light to have around. A punchy flood.....i think I need one.

 

[SpyderHS08]

Is it safe to take off the red wrapping of an aw imr 16340 to make for a better fit in an L1? Is there another wrap underneath or is it bare metal so therefore unsafe?

 

[RobertMM]

Is it safe to take off the red wrapping of an aw imr 16340 to make for a better fit in an L1? Is there another wrap underneath or is it bare metal so therefore unsafe?

No, that red wrap is the only insulation it has. My AW IMR slid in my L1 with room to spare, it was a 6th gen.