Recommend 1xAAA Light

[jon_slider]

Tank 007 e09.

thanks for the link
modes are [FONT=arial, verdana, helvetica, sans-serif]Mid > Hi > Lo… op is hoping for something that starts on Low.. any other ideas?[/FONT]

 

[samgab]

thanks for the link
modes are Mid > Hi > Lo… op is hoping for something that starts on Low.. any other ideas?

Jetbeam Jet-U is a good, functional, affordable option (about $10). It has mode memory, so if you turn off in low, next time you turn on it will be in low also. Has a good pocket clip. Class leading 135lm max output. Quite low 1.5lm low mode.

 

[Timothybil]

Wish it started on low and not medium.

There is supposedly a Rey light version of the Tool that starts on Low. Just saw mention of it in passing so don't have any idea where to look, but it is supposed to be out there somewhere. It may have been a one-time thing like the Massdrop Brass Tool.

 

[staticx57]

There is a Reylight copper tool and a Reylight Ti tool. You can still buy the Ti on banggood

 

[this_is_nascar]

I see that Maratac is up to Rev-4. I found the one I have, but don't have a clue to its version. It's at least 7-10 years old.

Of the available Rev-3's and Rev-4's out there is there a reason to get one over the other?

 

[kreisl]

I see that Maratac is up to Rev-4. I found the one I have, but don't have a clue to its version. It's at least 7-10 years old.

Of the available Rev-3's and Rev-4's out there is there a reason to get one over the other?

Rev3 has pwm and extremely high efficiency.
Rev4 is pwm-free and supposedly not efficient at all.

Rev3 has been tested and reviewed see reviews on reviewsdelinternas.blogspot.com , Rev4 hasn't been reviewed

 

[this_is_nascar]

Thanks.

 

[phoenixcatapult]

a surefire titan A,not titan plus(more heavier ).or a martac ?

 

[this_is_nascar]

If it is in a Lumintop Tool, I believe yes. Or, can you give a more specific link to the light you are looking at with that 219BT?

I see you have a strong interest in Low first. The massdrop brass has 7 days left to join. Bear in mind they dont ship until Mid April, but its the only Nichia 219b AAA light that starts on low, with Constant Current, that I can think of atm

If you dont mind a little "circuit noise" (PWM), then you might look at Eagletac D25aaa.

Depending which year model your maratac is, it may have a PWM driver. Most people dont care about PWM, and most flashlights use it as a dimming strategy. It is quite rare to find a light with NoPWM.. Ive got links in my sig to lists of both types.

Your cockroach lights (single mode) are Constant Current.

For the heck of it, I ordered the Lumintop Tool with the Nichia. I should have it tomorrow. If it's that good, I may be able to look past the fact that it starts on medium.

Did I read somewhere that it's head can be screwed onto the body of a Maratac?

 

[jon_slider]

Did I read somewhere that it's head can be screwed onto the body of a Maratac?

Yes, but, I have only done it with newer Maratacs that have longer threads. Let us know how it works out with your older Maratac.

I hope you enjoy your new light and I look forward to your impressions.

if you look closely you can read Tool on the head

and here is the other half of the lego.. both ON to prove they actually light up

 

[mbw_151]

I find that I want mostly flood on my AAA light because I use it at close ranges. The Surefire Titan does a good job here. Most of the AAA light I tried are too much spot.The Titan is only a two output light, 15/125 lumens. This works well most of the time. On the rare occasions when 15 lumens is too much, I just pull out my Photon Freedom. If it had a third level of 2 lumens the Titan would be perfect for me.

 

[this_is_nascar]

Thanks, but I think the Titan is a bit more than I'm willing to spend. As I've moved to budget knives, less expensive lights are also my desire.

 

[this_is_nascar]

Yes, but, I have only done it with newer Maratacs that have longer threads. Let us know how it works out with your older Maratac.

I hope you enjoy your new light and I look forward to your impressions.

if you look closely you can read Tool on the head

and here is the other half of the lego.. both ON to prove they actually light up

Thanks. I'll let you know. I should have it today. I'll be honest, I've been using my Maratac since I found it the other day. Not sure why I didn't make that my EDC. I think it's because I only wanted single stage with me, which would explain my daily carry if the E01 and E05 for so many years. Who know, I may end up sticking with that combo.

 

[jon_slider]

If it had a third level of 2 lumens… would be perfect for me.

you just came very close to describing the Nichia Tool, 16-3-80

I've been using my Maratac since I found it the other day.

the chance of the newer Tool head working on an older Maratac is slim. Earlier Maratacs had shorter threaded sections on the body, newer ones have longer threaded sections.

here is someone with an older Copper Maratac, and the newer Tool head does not work for them:
#32

I have the Copper Tool, and am feeling so-so about it's big rubber boot. I'm also hoping the Brass Tool head will work with my Maratac Brass for a nice compact twisty. I tried the Copper tool head on my Maratac Copper, but I think spacing of the threads were too far down the shaft to make contact : ( The Maratac worked on the Tool body, but not vice versa.

 

[gunga]

There are ways to make it work but you need to be able to mod. Easiest thing is to get a thicker lens (stock is 12x1mm). The other option is to use a thicker (perhaps copper) board for the LED.

 

[this_is_nascar]

OK, so my Lumintop Tool Nichia arrived a couple hours ago. The tint is definitely interesting. Did someone say this is the best tint for real color rendition? I'm just wondering why someone would choose this tint over the standard offerings in LED lights. I actually like the tint.

I've confirmed the bezel will properly fit and work on the tubes/bodies of my older E05, the 2014 Edition E05 and my Maratac that's many years old.

 

[jon_slider]

Did someone say this is the best tint for real color rendition?

High CRI is best for color rendition. The Tint is not the reason. There are other lights, such as the Thrunite Ti3 Warm, that is the same tint as your Tool, but not the same CRI

you may find this thread interesting:
#104

a 4500k Nichia, CRI nominal 92


and 5500k Cree, CRI nominal 70


at a glance we can see the Cree has the least red and the lowest CRI

our stock Maratacs look like the Olight, very little ability to produce red

I've confirmed the bezel will properly fit and work on the tubes/bodies of my older E05, the 2014 Edition E05 and my Maratac that's many years old.

thats great to hear, forgive my confusion, is your Maratac Copper, or one of the Aluminum ones, and did you buy a Copper or Aluminum Tool w Nichia?

 

[staticx57]

Jon,

It also might be worth while to compare high CRI and low CRI of the same kelvin value side by side

You can also take the xy values and plot them here and get the tint:

 

[this_is_nascar]

All aluminum.

 

[jon_slider]

You can also take the xy values and plot them here and get the tint:

I enjoy your posts, good info.. can you solve for the plot and post the results?

All aluminum.

great info!
So, now we know the new Alum Tool Head w Nichia, fits the old Alum Maratac body.. you win, now you can go back and forth depending on your preference on a Twisty, plus you can run the Maratac head as a Clickie on the Tool Body

I find I prefer the Nichia indoors in the evening, but I find the XP-G2 brighter for outdoor use, even though indoors I find it too "blueish"

btw, the most practical way I can suggest to compare the CRI of your old Maratac and your new Tool w Nichia, is to shine each of them on the palm of your hand. You may notice the high CRI LED is better at showing the flesh tones more realistically, while the cool white makes the hand look more "dead" (less pink)