Restoring vintage flashlights

[Crazyeddiethefirst]

Hey bykfixer, where did you order your PK PL-2 from? I can't find it available anywhere and I am SO jealous...a wife who likes your lights AND a PL-2 too? You are indeed a lucky man. Awesome "experienced" flashlight collection too...🤑(where is the "jealous" emoji?")....

 

[bykfixer]

Guess I shoulda completed that sentence eddie with "at amazon so I can buy one"...

Hopefully by Labor Day they'll be at Bulls Eye Worldwide.

But yeah my wife is great. Some of our hobbies kinda overlap whilest being different enough to have our own space if you know what I mean.

 

[ven]

Here-ya-go....

Your son would say "seriously dad?" lol.



:laughing:



Great name for a flashlight! Fred........Cant see it in this pic, but ones i have seen are the slide switch type as well. So reminds me of some of you vintage lights

 

[bykfixer]

Here-ya-go....

Your son would say "seriously dad?" lol.



:laughing:



Great name for a flashlight! Fred........Cant see it in this pic, but ones i have seen are the slide switch type as well. So reminds me of some of you vintage lights

I like slder switches. Most, but not all.
My favorite is the sliding strip that touches the lens when switch is pushed forward.

Scooby Doo characters might have used "Dog Supply House" brand... hardy-har-har...

 

[bigburly912]

Nice work! I love the look of a lot of the vintage lights. I've been on a search for the right host to get a resto mod done on but I'd love to fix up a few like you have as well. Missed out on an interesting copper flashlight with a focus lens on auction site last week.

 

[Bullzeyebill]

Was wondering what PR flange bulbs you used for your PR lights? Voltage, amperage, and shape. I notice, using some of my 2D PR lights that some cast a narrow beam, and others will cast a wide ringy beam. BTW, I have an almost pristine, inside and outside, Rayovac Silver Bullet light.

Bill

 

[bykfixer]

To start Bill, I'm just getting my feet wet in this regard so am not an expert by any means.

I use alkalines unless it's one old enough that alkalines won't fit. And so far those have used E10 bulbs. Rayovac most of the time.

My new favorite (recently surpassing Chicago Minature) are Tung Sol pre-Warner acquisition I stumbled onto at the Bay recently. Typical PR2 and 4 voltage, draw, watts and globe.

Based out of Newark NJ they made some mighty fine tubes for tv n radios and automotive bulbs that gave the big boys a run for their money. Their flashlight bulbs put out a nice hot pencil beam with little seen artifacts unless doing close up 4'or less) wall checks. There is a bit of a hole in the spot but nowhere near as bad as modern 10¢ bulbs.
Their PR2 and PR4 are the type with the rod from base to tip to provide drop stability for the filament.
Yet no shadow with the Tung Sol bulbs.

Chicago Miniature made a pretty nice bulb too. Typical specs and globe. A bit more shadow in the spot than Tung Sol but wider spot. I may go back to calling them favorite as the spill is brighter than Tung Sol.

Being both are getting scarcer anymore I use CEC bulbs for general use light in darkness, keeping the vintage bulbs reserved for special times.

My 'work' lights like TL122's, MX991's, old map readers etc get PR4 bulbs. The more fancy type get PR2 bulbs.

3 cell lights get PR3's or 13's depending on if it is a work light (13's) or fancy ones (3's).

Anything from the 60's forward get Maglite kryptons based on cell count. I have some Bright Star kryptons but have not tried them yet.
Also have some CEC KPR 13's but again havent't tried them.

US made GE bulbs suck! But the Hong Kong ones aren't that bad. Maybe Hong Kong was not complying with the 'bulb cartels' moretorium at that time on quality to ensure bulbs blew faster...
Some folks were making them able to withstand higher voltage and draw than specs to get around the rule. Rumor has it Hong Kong was one (along with the Japanese). So perhaps that's why the Hong Kong ones produce a nicer beam...

Anyway, sorry so long winded...

 

[bykfixer]

Here's one that was daunting at first.


The 2aaa HIPCO penlight.
I haven't really looked up it's age at this point. Between long hours at work and the curiosity to get it going put that off for now. (Edit: Flashlight Museum dates it 1950 and calls it nickle plated; end edit)

It did not work at first. The usual poke and prod with my circuit tester was out due to the small size of the body.
First things first I thought. How does it conduct electricity?

It took a light up magnifier to even see what was going on.


The lit magnifier and dental pick used.


I used the Coast G25 inspection light for this pic.

Deep down inside is a device that moves the battery towards the bulb to make contact with the #224 bulb.


A sorta diagram


The rest of the picture.
The spring keeps the bulb pressed against the battery as it also keeps the bulbs globe protruding from the front of the light.

So I insert two brand new batteries after testing the bulb and nothing. Not even a flicker. Bulb ok, batteries ok. So another pair of cells and a #222 were tried. Still nothing.
Dratz.

Test time. But nothing I have fits inside the body.
Luckily the wife has some silver wire in stock...



Mini probe to the rescue.

Carefully I touched various areas and heard a loud "beep" each time.
Hmph!! What could it be?

After trying various cells I figured perhaps cell length plays a role. Previously I had noted my usual Radio Shacks are just a whisker shorter than others.
And that lithiums are 3 whiskers longer than others. But...
I only had 1 aaa lithium in my entire house.

After checking a couple dozen small lights I have no idea where I used all but one from 2-4 packs...
Perhaps some Eneloop Pro?
Viola!!!!!


Woohoo!!!

Then noticing it flickers easily I decided the switch slides too easily.


Taking a right angle dental pick to the pair of ears holding the switch cover to the inside, I poked it towards the body to pinch it together tighter.
Slider no longer moves so easily.

Now to ensure the light stays on I just hold the switch forward while in use. Gravity allows the battery weight to the move the switch assembly away from the bulb very easily. But it's working and working well.
It works on the same principle as this old Burgess...




This one requires you hold it pressed forward for best results.
Makes it impractical for hands free use though.

Eh, hopefully at some point I'll figure out why alkalines won't fire this light. Until then it's a fine addition to my cup penlights....


It's in fine company with a Wildwood, a Burgess, a few modern LED inkpen/ flashlights and an Icon Solo.

 

[irongate]

Unnecessary long quote removed....Bill

Nice going!

 

[bykfixer]

Well the last one was relatively easy being it came already working...


A nickel plated French Rayolite.


Disassembled and cleaned.
Parts n pieces de-oxidized with Tarn-X and...


A little mag wheel polish later...


Looking all shiney and burning brightly.


This one has a unique switch system.


But I haven't done any since before Halloween.
Until today...


This one was dead and missing parts.


This one lights, but is dull and fickle.

The dark one is oxidized on the inside. I gave the outside a gentle bath to remove stuck on grime and got the really dirty lens nice n clear. That'll do. But de-oxidizing the inside is required.
The nickel one is clean on the outside but has leakage and lots of tarnish on the inside. Plus part of the switch is missing.

Stay tuned.... updates later.

 

[Minimoog]

Wow! What a classic light - I love to see things like this here. You know what, its only the likes of CPF members who will ever do this kind of thing and get all these classics back on the road. That is important I think, as it really is part of a previous era and can be experienced as it was then in modern times. Like a mini time machine.

Do keep us updated. Oh, one other thing, how are you finding the white reflector? In my opinion it does better than silver at close range and it certainly smooths out the beam.

 

[irongate]

Mr Fixer, The Eveready light, Case no 2660 the Duracell batteries are to large for it-fit way to tight. Any thoughts on that. Got it all shined up. It says on the side 2 unit no.935. On the bulb 25?
Thanks

 

[Minimoog]

Mr Fixer, The Eveready light, Case no 2660 the Duracell batteries are to large for it-fit way to tight. Any thoughts on that. Got it all shined up. It says on the side 2 unit no.935. On the bulb 25?
Thanks

Is there any corrosion on the inside? Also, old lights like this were designed to use card wrapped batteries which tend to be a bit smaller. Try some zinc batteries - and they are usually much cheaper too.

 

[bykfixer]

Wow! What a classic light - I love to see things like this here. You know what, its only the likes of CPF members who will ever do this kind of thing and get all these classics back on the road. That is important I think, as it really is part of a previous era and can be experienced as it was then in modern times. Like a mini time machine.

Do keep us updated. Oh, one other thing, how are you finding the white reflector? In my opinion it does better than silver at close range and it certainly smooths out the beam.

I marvelled at the beam with the white reflector with the round globe bulb. Beam was smooth as silk. Then with a 222 I had to chuckle a bit thinking here we are in 2016 and the latest, greatest technical gizmos have white reflectors to smooth out the beam and magnifier lenses to make them throw.

Side bar: Everytime you post another light my wallet gets a little thinner oh Moog Man. But it's good pain none-the-less. Thank you!!!

Mr Fixer, The Eveready light, Case no 2660 the Duracell batteries are to large for it-fit way to tight. Any thoughts on that. Got it all shined up. It says on the side 2 unit no.935. On the bulb 25?
Thanks

Is there any corrosion on the inside? Also, old lights like this were designed to use card wrapped batteries which tend to be a bit smaller. Try some zinc batteries - and they are usually much cheaper too.

Steve Giterman can make original style cells for the purist using double A's for the core. But...


But Wally world has the ones in the pic for a lot less.
They fit well in the really old lights and play nice with those ancient bulbs too.
And again for a bit of purity todays 'Eveready' cells are carbon zinc. It's that companies Energizers we see all the time. I haven't seen the black case'd Eveready C's and D's in a while.

 

[irongate]

MM= inside is clean of everything.

Mr Fixer =will check at WW today for those. That Copper Bullet really turned out sweet with a nice beam to it.

 

[bykfixer]

Well here on Christmas day things were quiet in the Fixer home after sundown. That is around 5 pm this time of year.
Well those 2 Soldier Boy lights had been set aside with the hope of having them done by now. Things in life don't always work on ones intended schedule. Yet today was a fine day to begin the process while Mrs Fixer was nearby crocheting the outter shell of a stocking cap from plastic bags. Once I figured out where the Mrs had stashed my box of flashlight restore tools the process was under way.

Today neither light wanted to light. A little coaxing got the gun metal one going. The light works or it don't regardless of switch position. The nickel plated one had the misfortune of nice thick (like 2mm) of alkaleakage inside the body near the tail cap. So my drill bit shaped sandpaper went to work and shortly after only stained brass resulted. Cleaning the tail spring, bulb assembly, switch system and inside the body later she lit up nice n bright. Again regardless of switch position.


Very welcome sight.
I was glad to see how brightly that officers light burned the big globe'd #14 Chicago Miniature bulb. A thing of beauty through the magnifier convex lens, all nicely difussed by the white reflector.

So tonight I worked on the beams I'm after as neither came with original bulbs so I have no idea what the owners of 1917-ish lights saw back then.
Good time to do some experimenting.


Flooder and thrower.
I kinda put myself in the role of a soldier using either. Officer using his to read maps and plans inside a tent while planning out strategies, perhaps with other officers. So I'm setting that one up as a small room lighter thinking perhaps tailstanding it would light up the tent enough to see the coffe pot, plans, and other officer necessities.

I'm thinking perhaps the foot soldier would have benefitted from a more throwy beam even though the chosen bulb for that one was not yet available. Once penlights were available the #222 would have made an excellent thrower beam in a light that used batteries from the 'vest pocket' variety. We call them double A's today. But one of those bulbs in a 2C baby light would have provided throw some 15-25' through uneven terrain and a nice spot to use as a light source to clean clean weapons, check barrel cleanliness, and enough flood light to see nearby. It would also cast a beam that could potentially ID nearby friend or foe while not illuminating the user enough to provide a discernible target if the foe were not alone.


They seem to be what I have in mind so far.


Cloudy night with lots of free lumens.
So at a time when it was sure enough dark after sundown the modified gun metal one would have been a portable bat light.


Meanwhile the nickel plated version.
This one would have been a supurb flooder for those planning out the upcoming events inside a shelter or bunker.

Once I got the beams dialed in the wife put Sherlock Holmes in the movie player so I put away the project for the evening. Next I'll get the gun metal one all spiffy on the inside to burn as bright as possible.
Then at some point I'll dive into the switching systems to figure how they broke the circuit back then and make what ever repairs are needed to make that happen 100 years later.

 

[StudFreeman]

Really enjoy reading your incandescent forays, Mr. Fixer. Thanks for sharing!

 

[bykfixer]

Really enjoy reading your incandescent forays, Mr. Fixer. Thanks for sharing!

'Preciate that.
I like to go back in time to a period where a thing called the flashlight was still catching on in the public arena. The fact that others enjoy as well makes it even more fun.

I visited a few stores today hoping to find a navy peacoat for my son. Also went into some stores with my wife looking for crafts, stuff for her new lizard building and day planners. Crazy enough each store we visited had flashlights of one sort or another. Mostly what we'd consider junk but packaged and branded in ways that cause the ordinary buyer to feel like they had something special. To me it just re-enforced the idea of sprucing up some relics that not many these days would give a second glance, or if found in an attic a second chance.

 

[Minimoog]

Really pleased that you managed to get both of those burning brightly. The design looks tough and functional and I'm really getting a liking for the white reflectors - why did they stop with those? There won't be much loss of light out the front compared to silvered reflectors but the beam is much more smoothed out. I like that you have both types - you need both really.

Do keep us posted on what is wrong with the switches - I'm looking forward to finding out.

 

[bykfixer]

Some of my favorite modern light use white background and shaped 'optics' like these.
Good ideas never go away forever. But I suppose folks opted for brightness over beam quality... lumen wars circa 1920. lol.

Ok so it seems although they are basically the same light, they aren't. Huh?
Take a look...


Vastly different shapes and style.


The coating looks a feels like ceramic


But again vastly different output system.


Switches very similar outside
Note the little ball was missing on the silver and the seller did a good job of hiding that fact. No biggy but I was bummed they did not show it.


Circuit system differs inside.

I'm pretty sure a band around the reflector will allow the circuit to open and close via the switch on the gun metal light. I've found on others an isolation between the bulb assembly and bezel allows proper circuit operation.

However I have not figured out how the switch opens and closes the circuit on the silver one yet.

See, on the gun metal one pushing the slider forward presses on the ball, which moves the tongue on the inside over to the bulb assembly thereby touching or not depending on slider location being up or down.

The tongue of the silver one touches that flange on the bulb assembly all the time. But I do not see any way for one segment of the slider to begin to touch a piece or move away from it like early switches did. That one will have me scratching my head a while.