Rotary Cr123/AA flashlight?

aznsx

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I realized that I edited my post very late, and should have put this additional info in a separate post. Sorry.

EDIT:
BTW: In terms of other hi-quality multi-fuel options: If one wanted to trade 14500 requirement for 16340, there's another great choice which can use 16340, CR123A, or AA (although it will only internally charge the provided custom 16340). No rotary though - it's targeted to meet the professional tactical backup segment requirements (much as the Streamlight we're discussing). It's the ASP Sentinel e3. Another ASP light lives in my pocket full-time, and I can vouch for their quality - so far.
 

paulr

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Right, rotary is the hard part. Any nerd can design electronics and after the design effort and initial tooling, manufacturing an electronically switched light is very cheap per unit. Rotary on the other hand requires precise machining on every unit and that costs. I'm surprised the PD40 is so affordable. If your heart is set on a rotary I'd just buy one. It looks great. You can run it on an 18650 with an adapter I'm sure, though 16340 would be pushing it.

I don't find multi-fuel that important: if you want common batteries, that's AA, otherwise use rechargeables.
 

jon_slider

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GadgetGeek

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I will.

I just ordered 2 streamlight protac 1l-1aa which works with AA, 123a, and AAA.
I will try to see if it will work with a 14500 since its working with cr123a.
I'm curious to find out if it will work with a 14500. Please let us know.
 

aznsx

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I'm curious to find out if it will work with a 14500. Please let us know.

There seems to be little doubt that it will "work" (emit light when one pushes the button).

The relevant question is 'for how long?'

Also, if it only works in 'High', it's trying to tell you something important.

Ordering two was a good move, as a backup may be required.
 
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paulr

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It's possible that using a 3.6 cell could fry something. You might have better luck with a 3.2 volt LFP though even that might be asking for trouble. Boost converters expect to see battery voltages lower than the LED forward voltage which is usually a tiny bit over 3 volts these days.

Hmm, maybe give this a try: it steps down to 3 volts internally. On the other hand, output current is limited to 1.5A which might not run the light at full power.

 

db4rings

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To everyone, I just got the 2 Streamlight Protac 1L-1AA and I just tested one of them. It runs on AA, AAA, cr123, and amazingly is working with Lumintop 14500 920 mAh 3.7 volts. I will see if the fenix, nitecore, and Klarus 14500s work.
With the 14500, it does cycle through High, Strobe and Low. It does not get hot or anything. I will EDC the first one with a 14500 and see if it will get fried or not.
So far I'm happy and I give up the rotary switch for this torch 😉👍
 

db4rings

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One little issue is it will not tail stand. I wish the button was slighly more recessed.
Can anyone recommend on how to file down the button - it only needs about 1 mm?
 

db4rings

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Right, rotary is the hard part. Any nerd can design electronics and after the design effort and initial tooling, manufacturing an electronically switched light is very cheap per unit. Rotary on the other hand requires precise machining on every unit and that costs. I'm surprised the PD40 is so affordable. If your heart is set on a rotary I'd just buy one. It looks great. You can run it on an 18650 with an adapter I'm sure, though 16340 would be pushing it.

I don't find multi-fuel that important: if you want common batteries, that's AA, otherwise use rechargeables.
I already bought 2 of these. The PD 40R V2.0. I love this light except I highly doubt it has 3000 lumens on turbo and the throw id say is neary 300 meters instead of 400 meters. But I still love this light. I did get the fenix 5000 mAh usb c rechargable 21700 and an adapter for the 18650.
I do have about 2 dozen various AA/14500 torches but none of them are as versatile as this streamlight.
 

sween1911

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One little issue is it will not tail stand. I wish the button was slighly more recessed.
Can anyone recommend on how to file down the button - it only needs about 1 mm?
I noticed that too. It's so close! I had occasion to try to tailstand it and no dice. I will say, if you want to mess with it, there's a plastic ring inside the tailcap that can be unscrewed with needle-nosed pliers. As always, be careful. I don't have mine handy, but you could see if you can adjust the degree to which the rubber button sticks out. Perhaps adding a tiny o-ring or washer or a shim.
 

3_gun

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Streamlight Protac 1L-1AA ; this thread made me buy ANOTHER light I didn't know I wanted/needed. Solid light, used it for about a month (couple of batteries worth) then added it to my "go bag" knowing I have or could find power from just about any store.
 

jon_slider

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that sunwayman v11r if i can only get my hands on a brand new one
check my sales thread or send me a PM
qg39Ij9l.jpg
 
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