Suggestions on how to improve Armytek Flashlights:

[Tulip bush]

1st tiara......flicker on turbo and switch to high main after about 30 secs.
2nd tiara....... As above but would hold turbo a bit longer.
3rd tiara.....Would only cycle to 2 main.

Kept tiara number one for my dad as he's unlikely to use turbo. Other two sent back to shop.

All above were tested on good batteries, in fact I went and bought some fresh ones just to double check. Shop triple checked them....they were definitely all faulty.

The flickering on my Viking pro has stopped last few times I've been out.

1....A strobe still keeps appearing and disappearing after the high main in hunting mode, but you say that it's probably has the new software or something.......so what I would like to know is am I some how activating this strobe and disabling it without knowing......not having the instructions for the new software I'm a bit in unsure if I'm doing something I'm not aware of.

2....Also if the light is on and I switch off via the tail cap and then switch back on via the tail cap should it comeS back on in a lower mode why?

3..... If the tail cap is slightly caught is there any allowance for this because if mine is very slightly moved it turns straight off, seems to be virtually no margin between on at off?

Thanks for your assistance

 

[Tachead]

I was told that I would get a refund for my shipping for a defective light I sent back and I have not received it. I followed the instructions and sent a copy of my shipping receipt the day I sent it too. It has now been over 3 weeks and nothing. I emailed the Canadian office([email protected]) to find out what was going on last week and have still not heard back. They were who I have been dealing with concerning the issue and who my light was sent back to. Can you please find out what is going on? Thanks.

I still haven't got an answer to this question?

 

[ArmyTek]

1st tiara......flicker on turbo and switch to high main after about 30 secs.
2nd tiara....... As above but would hold turbo a bit longer.
3rd tiara.....Would only cycle to 2 main.

Kept tiara number one for my dad as he's unlikely to use turbo. Other two sent back to shop.

All above were tested on good batteries, in fact I went and bought some fresh ones just to double check. Shop triple checked them....they were definitely all faulty.

The flickering on my Viking pro has stopped last few times I've been out.

1....A strobe still keeps appearing and disappearing after the high main in hunting mode, but you say that it's probably has the new software or something.......so what I would like to know is am I some how activating this strobe and disabling it without knowing......not having the instructions for the new software I'm a bit in unsure if I'm doing something I'm not aware of.

2....Also if the light is on and I switch off via the tail cap and then switch back on via the tail cap should it comeS back on in a lower mode why?

3..... If the tail cap is slightly caught is there any allowance for this because if mine is very slightly moved it turns straight off, seems to be virtually no margin between on at off?

Thanks for your assistance

Please write to our service manager on [email protected].

 

[ArmyTek]

I still haven't got an answer to this question?

Please check your spam folder.

 

[Tachead]

Please check your spam folder.

I check my spam folder at least twice a week but, I sent another email yesterday in case the other wasn't received and I got my shipping refund today. Thanks for the help guys:thumbsup:.

 

[uniqlo]

Armytek, can you get those nichia 219C high CRI? or do you work exclusively with CREE leds?

color rendition is very important as well. Not just lumens numbers.....

 

[ArmyTek]

Armytek, can you get those nichia 219C high CRI? or do you work exclusively with CREE leds?

color rendition is very important as well. Not just lumens numbers.....

We do not use nichia because they are pale. For now we use Cree leds.

 

[Budda]

Armytek did in the past some run with great HICRI led from CREE.
I have my HICRI wizard and I just love it, the same for the Partner limited edition HICRI.
Could you make a completely flood light like Zebralight does?
Or at least one with an optic that has a very wide angle of spill, like the H1 Nova?

 

[Tachead]

We do not use nichia because they are pale. For now we use Cree leds.

The newer high CRI 4000K Nichia 219C's (R9050) have a fairly high output. Eagletac is using them in some of their new lights and getting 740 ANSI lumens from a single 18650 light. The new Nichia NV4W144AR/AM could be an option too.

If you want to stick with Cree, how about offering some lights using their high CRI variants? The XHP50 you use in your Wizard Pro is available in a 2-step MacAdam Ellipse 90+ CRI 4000K variant for instance and it would be awesome to see you release a light with this emitter. The order code for the highest output version of this emitter is XHP50A-00-0000-0D0UG440H.

A lot of us would prefer a warm high CRI edition of the Wizard, even if it is less bright then the regular warm version. Thanks.

 

[uniqlo]

would rather have 4000-5000k cree high cri than warmcree shows 90(min) cri available option for XHP35 etc but it seems most manufacturers just want high lumens, low criunder warm tone, is not so obvious to spot cow dung in the bush....

 

[CelticCross74]

wow I must be the only person that thinks Nichia's high cri looks awful lol. I am perfectly happy with the new XHP35 and 50 PP's etc...

 

[BLUE LED]

wow I must be the only person that thinks Nichia's high cri looks awful lol. I am perfectly happy with the new XHP35 and 50 PP's etc...

No you're not the only one.

 

[Tachead]

wow I must be the only person that thinks Nichia's high cri looks awful lol. I am perfectly happy with the new XHP35 and 50 PP's etc...

Look aweful how? The example you saw must have been a bad example or not used with the right optic or reflector. Generally Nichia's have much less tint shift from hotspot to spill then Cree's, have a much more uniform beam, and have more pure tints without pinkish or greenish tones. I am happy with the XHP35 and 50 lights too but, it would be nice to see some higher CRI options(both Cree and Nichia). Once you try some high CRI lights, it is hard to go back to ones with normal emitters.

 

[CelticCross74]

Tachead it has been awhile since I tried out a Nichia light but when I did it looked nowhere near like natural light. Even for a modern neutral white I think the 219b emitter is awful but that is just my opinion. I have tried to search out whats out there now Nichia wise via the amazing beam shot collection on Taschenlampen.com which I have found to be very accurate and the Nichias to me still look like there is a bad yellow filter over the lens to my eyes..

 

[Tachead]

Tachead it has been awhile since I tried out a Nichia light but when I did it looked nowhere near like natural light. Even for a modern neutral white I think the 219b emitter is awful but that is just my opinion. I have tried to search out whats out there now Nichia wise via the amazing beam shot collection on Taschenlampen.com which I have found to be very accurate and the Nichias to me still look like there is a bad yellow filter over the lens to my eyes..

You are likely comparing lower colour temperature Nichia's to higher temp Cree's. That is why they look more yellow. You have to compare emitters with the same CCT and preferably in the same light to see the true difference. I assure you, that Nichia's generally produce a much more uniform and "natural light" as you put it. This is easily scientifically proven when they are spectrally tested. See some of maukka's measurements with his X-rite i1Pro spectrophotometer if you want to learn more and see the differences.

 

[ven]

wow I must be the only person that thinks Nichia's high cri looks awful lol. I am perfectly happy with the new XHP35 and 50 PP's etc...

Try the xhp35 HI 5000k CC, they are a real nice neutral. As for nichia,(no let me say i am no fan boy here, i just appreciate a nice CT, be it nichia,cree or who ever). There are many variations(flavours). The 219b can be had in 4000k,4500k etc, as with the 219c up to 5700k iirc. Now the 219c 5700k hi cri you will like!!! Its cool and pure. The 4000k B's and C's maybe a bit on the warm side if more used to cooler. Try a 219c 5000k, happy medium and a very nice CT without colours popping artificially . Its all subjective and no rights or wrongs, but i am confident the 219c 5000k will satisfy your taste. The eagtac(sworry for swearing on an AT thread.....just an example) for one factory light offers this emitter........

Hope all is well CC , not seen much of you about recently .

 

[CelticCross74]

Hey ven! Yeah business had me all over the place for awhile it is interesting to see what has been going down since I have been gone. You are 100% correct about the XHP35 my SC600 MkIII HI has some of the greatest tint I have really ever seen. Interestingly I also got both the cool white and warm white XHP35 HI Pred Pros and have found the warm white version to have a more "generic" neutral tint vs the glorious golden tint vs my SC600 MkIII HI I wonder what causes the tint difference between those two lights....

Also a big ET fan have over a dozen easily and am familiar with the plethora of emitters they try to offer. Always been curious about the Nichia ET's and will take you up on your suggestion of trying out a 219c emitter ET. Which ET's have them? I will go look but was wondering if you knew off the top of your head...

 

[SubLGT]

….How about getting rid of that "Canadian Manufacturer" business. It's all over your website. Your lights are made in China. I don't mind Chinese made lights. Especially since yours are supposedly very well made….

I noticed that printed on the new white Armytek packaging are the phrases: "Assembled in own factory in China" and "Developed in Canada"

 

[puglife]

When nichia ?

 

[CelticCross74]

My Serious Suggestions for Improving Armytek Flashlights-

1. FULLY POTTED ELECTRONICS. I have so many Armyteks I lost count. The aluminum capsule AT currently uses to protect the driver also has from what I have researched some kind of viscous goo in it. In other words it is "semi potted". The driver can actually still move around in said viscous goo causing lots of problems.

2. Include an ANSI rating chart with your products like near every other manufacturer does.

3. Emitters. Like I mentioned above I have so many Armytek's I lost count. I have the entire Gen 3 line. I have several current Gen Armyteks that I bought because they are advertised as "white light". Only a few of my "white light" AT's actually put out actual white light. The rest are basically bad neutrals despite being labeled "white light".

Same goes for "warm light" labeled current Gen AT's. I will buy a warm light AT sometimes it is amazing like the Viking Pro XHP50 and sometimes it just looks like a defective "warm white" emitter was put in. The tints out of those are pretty poor.

4. The current Gen AT's overall are extremely GOOD looking lights. The current Predators and Dobermanns are two of the best mid size light designs in the industry.

5. The Barracuda. I sent mine back. Start over with a clean sheet design. The current Barracuda may be built like a tank but the beam profile is very narrow, has artifacts around the edge of the beam profile and even with HI emitters still gets out thrown by most other "thrower" lights.
A Barracuda II that eliminates those issues would be awesome.

6. FIRMWARE-Nearly every single AT light I have has different user interface. For example I think I have 9 current Gen Predator Pro's. I think only two of them have the same UI. The amount of time and effort I have spent searching for CORRECT manuals for most of my AT's is inexcusable.

7. The biggest complaint I have read about AT's overall is that they cannot TAIL STAND. It does not bother me much but I have read a LOT of comments about AT's not having a "caged" or "walled" tail switch that would allow tail standing. At the very least make a "walled" tail switch cap an OPTION.