Surefire A2 Aviator Fan checking in

thermal guy

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I remember the discussion on using 3.7 cells in the A2 but couldn't remember where it left off thanks. And god that's a beautiful A2 black and 4 sides! There was a time if you had one of them you were a flashlight god.
 

ampdude

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I remember the discussion on using 3.7 cells in the A2 but couldn't remember where it left off thanks. And god that's a beautiful A2 black and 4 sides! There was a time if you had one of them you were a flashlight god.

Yes, it's even more awesome knowing you can switch between rechargeables and back without changing lamps.

That's what I've always liked about the 9 volt lamp assemblies as well. Rechargeables for regular use. Primaries for backups, emergency stash or harsh weather conditions.
 

chainsolid

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For my A2 I have some problem with a ring and I buy Koala ring and HO-A2 from Lumenfactory
I never use 3.7 V, Because I don't want to destroy a ring

Now I try to clean the original ring and work normally I Keep original ring and incan for spare part
 

yazkaz

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For my A2 I have some problem with a ring and I buy Koala ring and HO-A2 from Lumenfactory
I never use 3.7 V, Because I don't want to destroy a ring
Now I try to clean the original ring and work normally I Keep original ring and incan for spare part
I acquired an A2 not long ago and also LF's LED upgrade. Did try 2x3.7Vs briefly but then stopped (I'd say less than 1 minute cumulative). The stock LEDs still light up but hope I didn't destroy them (and the ring)...

For cleaning, try CAIG's DeOxit D100 and G100. They're great for cleaning flashlight threads, contacts etc. The D100 helps remove oxidized material while the G100 rejuvenates the contact surfaces.
 

bignc

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Round A2 Aviator (red) recieved in trade today. It is a neat light. I won't EDC it but I could see it being a camping light- maybe a backup in the bag. CR123 runtime on a stock Surefire lamp is not great compared to say a M61 L or LL but that's not the point is it? What about lamp life on 123 primaries- is about 50 hours still accurate?

IF it fits, any reason NOT to use a 16650? I can't really discern from the LION/ INCAN threads I've read- does UNDER driving it by that amount damage the bulb?

Just trying to decide if I want to keep it stock, run it on primaries, etc....
 
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InvisibleFrodo

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From what I know, once the battery voltage goes below 4 volts the incandescent will be disabled. I would try a pair of K2 energy 16340s.
 

bignc

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Too bad I have discovered the A2 after parts and support are shot. I use mine only as a sock drawer light- for me that means that if the SHTF, it would get packed with my bag of batteries and spare bulbs and malkoff parts and put in with socks and boxers before either hunkering down or grabbing a few more items and bugging out!

I take it out to play with but am afraid to hurt it or wear something out....
 

archimedes

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Too bad I have discovered the A2 after parts and support are shot .... I take it out to play with but am afraid to hurt it or wear something out....

I have several, and they are pretty sturdy, to say the least.

Nothing is indestructible, true, and support is increasingly limited indeed.

However, I've used one near daily on "moderate duty" use over several years, with no special concerns.

The main preps I've done is to get a couple of "user" backups for parts, and stocked up on lamps.

The A2 is such an amazing (and for me, near perfect) flashlight, that to never use it would be sad :(

In particular, apart from normal consumption of lamps (although the soft-start circuitry helps these last much longer than more typical incandescents) , it is the switch which is the part most likely to eventually fail. So, try to get a few of those if you can, and you should be good[emoji106]
 

yazkaz

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I In particular, apart from normal consumption of lamps (although the soft-start circuitry helps these last much longer than more typical incandescents) , it is the switch which is the part most likely to eventually fail. So, try to get a few of those if you can, and you should be good
Agree that the tailcap switch seems to be the weakest link. But lately it's not easy to obtain one even on eB...
Previously there was presence of used ones that came without switch boot and retainer ring (third party replacements available later in the month). Complete ones are even harder to find.

Good thing is that the A2L tailcap is compatible with the A2 (even though the dot indicator position does not match). So if anyone can't find the original Z62 the A2L variant should be just fine...
 

ampdude

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Just for giggles, I have an L1 and an L2 (well, my wife absconded with them.) Same?

Yes, it's the same tailcap. I think the LX2 internals are the same as well from what I seen with mine, though the outer shell is different of course. It's not like Surefire shouldn't have stock of the mechanism, the problem is getting Surefire to repair an old switch or sell just the mechanism.
 

yazkaz

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Yazkaz, are you certain? I mean first hand or close? I will find one just in case if you know this! Thx
Bought a used A2L tailcap a while ago for testing. Does fit onto the A2 without problem (except for the dot indicator not lining up with the body nub), high/low mode all normal..

However, the tailcap came without boot and retainer ring. Will have to wait till third-party replacement parts are available, then I'll refurb the tailcap and put it on sale. If interested, let me know.
 

bignc

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Too bad a friend of incandescent e series lights doesn't make aviator/ L series replacement parts. I have plenty of Mark's stuff and would absolutely trust it. Not sure if the market is big enough but still....
 
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