The Official Zebralight Thread .

[recDNA]

It doesn't.

I have run multiple 30 minute runtime tests on H1 with no external cooling at 24C ambient temperature on both the 64c&d. My tail springs look good as new and have noticed no issues whatsoever with the tailcap or spring. I am pretty sure the guy that started that thread about the H600Fc is blowing the spring temperature way out of proportion. He is the only person that has even mentioned it out of the many people that have reviewed that light. If there was an issue with the spring it would become discolored and/or break and I am sure ZL would have noticed it when testing the new model.

Zebralight replied they are aware of the problem so I infer there is a problem. My spring looks shiny and perfect. I am more concerned that a hot spring might damage the battery or cause it to vent.

 

[Tachead]

Zebralight replied they are aware of the problem so I infer there is a problem

No, they replied they are aware of the high current through the spring, not that it is a problem. They said that they will switch to pogo pins on later models. If there was a problem they would have switched to pogo pins on this model. As long as adequate batteries are used I bet it works just fine. As I said, many other users have reviewed this light and none of them mentioned any issue whatsoever with the spring or tailcap.

 

[recDNA]

No, they replied they are aware of the high current through the spring, not that it is a problem. They said that they will switch to pogo pins on later models. If there was a problem they would have switched to pogo pins on this model.

In my experience designs are usually expensive to change and are seldom done unless there is a significant reason. The high current is a given. They advertise it. My inference is pogo pins were used because high current in springs is a problem. You mentioned it is not a problem in the 64 since springs are perfect. My concern is not solely about the springs longevity but their heat conduction to the battery.

 

[Tachead]

In my experience designs are usually expensive to change and are seldom done unless there is a significant reason. The high current is a given. They advertise it. My inference is pogo pins were used because high current in springs is a problem. You mentioned it is not a problem in the 64 since springs are perfect. My concern is not solely about the springs longevity but their heat conduction to the battery.

They already have the tailcap made. All they would have to do is shorten the cell compartment by 5mm. That is a very simple change in the CAD program and could be done in a few minutes so, it would not be expensive.

You don't need to worry about the battery, it will never get even close to hot enough to cause a problem. These light step down drastically in less then a minute and thus the current draw drops off dramatically. Most cells are safe to 85C(at least 60 even with old low current cells) and that is if the whole cell reaches that temp not just the metal protection plate on the negative terminal.

Remember ZL is a US company and is open to liability so, they are not going to want to sell an unsafe light. I have learned over the years that people on these forums cry about the smallest little things even if they have no effect on actual use. Also, people have been know to greatly exaggerate any issues or problems. You have to watch what you read and take it with a grain of salt imo.

 

[recDNA]

They already have the tailcap made. All they would have to do is shorten the cell compartment by 5mm. That is a very simple change in the CAD program and could be done in a few minutes so, it would not be expensive.

You don't need to worry about the battery, it will never get even close to hot enough to cause a problem. These light step down drastically in less then a minute and thus the current draw drops off dramatically. Most cells are safe to 85C and that is if the whole cell reaches that temp not just the metal protection plate on the negative terminal.

Remember ZL is a US company and is open to liability so, they are not going to want to sell an unsafe light. I have learned over the years that people on these forums cry about the smallest little things even if they have no effect on actual use. Also, people have been know to greatly exaggerate any issues or problems. You have to watch what you read and take it with a grain of salt imo.

I think you are right in most respects. I am more careful than most. My concern is that little hot ring on the negative plate might over time cause pockets of change in the chemistry of the battery making it less stable. If the battery blew when charging we might not even associate it with the Zebralight especially if the battery is rotated to another light. As I said I am more careful than most. One man's paranoia is another man's prudence.

 

[Tachead]

I think you are right in most respects. I am more careful than most. My concern is that little hot ring on the negative plate might over time cause pockets of change in the chemistry of the battery making it less stable. If the battery blew when charging we might not even associate it with the Zebralight especially if the battery is rotated to another light. As I said I am more careful than most. One man's paranoia is another man's prudence.

I don't think you need to worry in this case. I have read reports of lights springs getting so hot they turned red hot, discolored, hardened, and broke and there was still no issues with cells. It sounds like ZL springs are not even getting hot enough to discolor so, we are talking way cooler then that. Just keep your terminals clean(I recommend Deoxit Gold be applied periodically from when the light is new) to keep resistance down and enjoy your light.

You are right to be cautious and it is smart imo. Lithium ions should be used with care.

 

[recDNA]

I was having a discussion yesterday about the PID in M1 slot with output set at 1600 lumens. I read somewhere you lose PID in M1 but that was wrong. The PID follows the top 3 output levels no matter what slot they are in. This directly from ZL customer​ support. I should have asked if I could program a solid 1600 lumens into the 3 click slot. I don't use blinky modes.

 

[niraya]

I was having a discussion yesterday about the PID in M1 slot with output set at 1600 lumens. I read somewhere you lose PID in M1 but that was wrong. The PID follows the top 3 output levels no matter what slot they are in. This directly from ZL customer​ support. I should have asked if I could program a solid 1600 lumens into the 3 click slot. I don't use blinky modes.

I just do not understand how could they release such screwed up H1 PID. It is worse than PID in H2R Olight - useless level . I will test it another week and probably return and wait for next, fixed batch in the future to try again. :sick2:

And their response on BLF:
"1) We are aware of the high current through the spring, and that's the exactly why we switched to multiple pins in our flashlight products. High output headlamp models will move to the pin design in the future. Different spring materials or bypass won't help much because some of our customers will still insist on using their low quality high resistance protected batteries.
2) We are aware of the ringing/oscillating in the Mk 4 18650 lights. We'll try to fine tune the PID parameters (and possibly setting up a new calibration process) in future. "
It is just so absurd.

 

[evgeniy]

The PID follows the top 3 output levels no matter what slot they are in.

Because without PID flashlight may be damaged, (no matter in what group you enabled Hi modes).

Remember ZL is a US company and is open to liability so, they are not going to want to sell an unsafe light.

Yes. And it's one of reasons , why we choose Zebra's.

 

[geokite]

I was having a discussion yesterday about the PID in M1 slot with output set at 1600 lumens. I read somewhere you lose PID in M1 but that was wrong. The PID follows the top 3 output levels no matter what slot they are in. This directly from ZL customer​ support. I should have asked if I could program a solid 1600 lumens into the 3 click slot. I don't use blinky modes.

Strobe levels cannot be changed, per a reply from zl I got recently. IMO their product description is misleading on this.

 

[ven]

General question here guys(no fighting allowed :laughing: ) . I am pondering a 600, more than likely an xhp50 for the larger body over the sc63/64 series. So with that in mind, i am really tempted by the sc600fd mkIII . The newer mk IV UI would be preferred, but not a must or over important. What is important is the tint. So UI out of the equation , would you stick with the tried and tested mk III or risk the mk IV and potential fugly tint of the xhp50.2(tend to be yellow and i dont want too much yellow). I dont care if one is 1500lm and the other 1800lm+, i care more for a long duration of 200-400lm beam of usefulness , and easy on the eye tint than anything.

 

[Connor]

For me, out of two Fd Mk III Plus and one Fd Mk IV Plus, the Mk IV had the best tint.

The lottery is real™.

 

[ven]

Thanks connor, damn back to square 1 haha. So thats the xhp50 V the xhp50.2, both same colour temp? I was thinking around 5000k temp to limit the yellow side.

 

[Connor]

ven, check out http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?395603-The-Official-Zebralight-Thread&p=5160547&viewfull=1#post5160547

 

[sc00ts19]

Strobe levels cannot be changed, per a reply from zl I got recently. IMO their product description is misleading on this.

"In G6 and G7
H1, H2, M1, M2, L1 and L2 can be programmed to any of the 12 available brightness levels"

This seems pretty clear, was there another section of the product description that you're referring to?

 

[ven]

ven, check out http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?395603-The-Official-Zebralight-Thread&p=5160547&viewfull=1#post5160547

Thank you connor, looks like you certainly have a winner there. Other than my xp-l2 AA fed ZL's, my others i have been very happy with(xhp35 4500k and Luxeon T 5000k).

 

[evgeniy]

may be, PID in mk. IV version isn't optimal (tuned for max.output), but what we have in practice for H600Fc/Fd headlamps ?

1) max. mode for continuous use in any weather is 280lm (may be, except very hot nights), this mode has no PID.
And no problems with PID, no problems with springs.

2) In cold/moderate cold weather (as currently in my city, ~~0C) 580lm mode will work without PID and may be used for continuous use.(In hot weather yes, brightless will be decreased. )
No problems with PID, no problems with springs.

3) For short time in any weather we can use turbo mode, 980lm, for 1-2min. With PID, but in any case we 'll receive 1-2min of bright light. It's more than user usually need for "turbo" purposes from headlamp,
for many years I use turbo mode in my Zebra headlamps for few tens seconds, <1min.
No problems with PID, no problems with springs.

4) watercooled / hard cooled tests + continuous use of 1560lm mode, other "bdsm" use, etc.
Yes, in these modes we 'll have problems with PID and problems with springs.

 

[AEDe]

It doesn't.

I have run multiple 30 minute runtime tests on H1 with no external cooling at 24C ambient temperature on both the 64c&d. My tail springs look good as new and have noticed no issues whatsoever with the tailcap or spring. I am pretty sure the guy that started that thread about the H600Fc is blowing the spring temperature way out of proportion. He is the only person that has even mentioned it out of the many people that have reviewed that light. If there was an issue with the spring it would become discolored and/or break and I am sure ZL would have noticed it when testing the new model.

Guy. I offered 2 simple test . You can perform it and find out who is right. Until you check it out stop blaming me

 

[joelbnyc]

Can anyone recommend a diffuser cap for the SC64's? The ones I have don't fit well.

 

[Tachead]

Guy. I offered 2 simple test . You can perform it and find out who is right. Until you check it out stop blaming me

My point is there is no safety issue and the light will still work fine even if the performance on H1 isn't optimal.