The Tint Snob Thread

the.Mtn.Man

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The photos are there for visual examination - as is the EXIF data for said pictures - and they speak for themselves concerning the color rendering of the light.
A picture will almost always look different than what you see in person. I did an A/B comparison between a Surfire incan and my 3700K HDS Rotary, and looking at them with my own two eyeballs, I could see no difference between them. Henry advertised the light at the time as having a 90+ CRI, and from what I can see, mine is most definitely a "plus". No idea what the actual CRI rating is, but I suspect it's up there. I've even had coworkers ask me if my Rotary is an incandescent, and they're shocked when I tell them it's an LED.

I keep hoping that someday we'll see 3200K 100 CRI LEDs.
 

tops2

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I'm not a "snob" yet...?

But I love at higher levels my Zebralight H600Fd and Lumintop IYP365.
The H600Fd has a touch of warmth without being too warm, but not too "white" and analytical.
The IYP365 at the highest setting just is so pleasant to me. Its the "warmest" light I still have that doesn't make things all dirty and yellow. I actually like the tint at the highest level more than my H600Fd.

I keep seeing mentioning of the Nichia 219c so one day I gotta try one out!
 

jon_slider

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I keep seeing mentioning of the Nichia 219c so one day I gotta try one out!

219c 4000k are in ReyLight Pineapple, ReyLight Ti Lan, and Manker LAD

if you have not yet tried a 4500k N219b from Lumintop, there is a Brass Tool coming on massdrop for $25. this is the only one of the 4 mentioned, that uses pure constant current.
 

Dr Forinor

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Manker have also released their E14 with Nichia 219C 4000k emitters, and it really is very good, I would say better than the 219BT used in the Lumintop.
 

JimAShaw

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I am new to CPW and flashlights in general.

So, please excuse a novice questions.

I am considering ordering the Manker MK34 and I notice that the XP G3, the NOCHIA 219B and the 219C can be chosen during the ordering.

I understand the cool vs the tint but what is the difference between the 219C and 219B?
 

staticx57

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The 219C is newer but it is not specific enough. There is a 90+ CRI 219C as well but without knowing it likely is the 80CRI which means brighter but lower CRI
 

jon_slider

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IF we compare a 4000k N219b, to a 4000k N219c, the N219b will tend to have a more pink tint, and the 219c will tend to have a more yellow tint. I prefer the pink tint to yellow tint. Therefore, for me, the N219b is the better choice.

The benefit of the 219c is that it uses less power, but it does not have better color imo. So for a Tint Snob, the N219b is the better option. For a Brightness snob, the N219c is a better choice, but this is the Tint Snob thread :)
 

DHart

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IF we compare a 4000k N219b, to a 4000k N219c, the N219b will tend to have a more pink tint, and the 219c will tend to have a more yellow tint. I prefer the pink tint to yellow tint. Therefore, for me, the N219b is the better choice.

The benefit of the 219c is that it uses less power, but it does not have better color imo. So for a Tint Snob, the N219b is the better option. For a Brightness snob, the N219c is a better choice, but this is the Tint Snob thread :)

I prefer the pinker tints vs yellower tints, myself.

But in use (Manker E14vn with four 219c 4000k emitters) I find the color quite neutrally warmish.

I'm sure I'd enjoy the 219b 4000k version very much, as well.
 

Tachead

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IF we compare a 4000k N219b, to a 4000k N219c, the N219b will tend to have a more pink tint, and the 219c will tend to have a more yellow tint. I prefer the pink tint to yellow tint. Therefore, for me, the N219b is the better choice.

The benefit of the 219c is that it uses less power, but it does not have better color imo. So for a Tint Snob, the N219b is the better option. For a Brightness snob, the N219c is a better choice, but this is the Tint Snob thread :)

This is not really accurate Jon. Nichia LED's are binned just like Cree's and there is a range to the tint you might receive(the tint lottery). Either emitter(B or C) could be magenta/pinkish or yellowy/greenish depending on where your particular example falls on the chromaticity chart. You can minimize this variation(but not eliminate it) by purchasing emitters from a bin with a lower MacAdam Ellipse number. SM403 binned emitters have the tightest chromaticity tolerance of the 4000K(SW40) Nichias.
 
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gunga

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From the available (tight) bins I've seen, Jon is correct. While you are technically correct, there is a difference between what is theoretically correct (you) vs what is practically correct (Jon).
 

Tachead

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From the available (tight) bins I've seen, Jon is correct. While you are technically correct, there is a difference between what is theoretically correct (you) vs what is practically correct (Jon).

You can not be sure of this without having hundreds or even thousands of examples to compare or without Nichia confirming this hypothesis. I have 219B's that are yellowy/greenish and ones that are magenta/pinkish for instance so, I personally think it is still the standard tint lottery. I do not think generalizing that C's are green and B's are pink is right and could be misleading. YMMV of course. Nichia's own chromaticity charts also don't support this generalization.
 

Tachead

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I should also add that when it comes to 4000K 219B's, I have personally seen more examples that are yellowy/greenish then ones that are magenta/pinkish. I have however seen more magenta/pinkish ones in the higher colour temperature bins. I don't have much experience with C's(especially SW40)so I can't comment on my experiences there.
 
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JimAShaw

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IF we compare a 4000k N219b, to a 4000k N219c, the N219b will tend to have a more pink tint, and the 219c will tend to have a more yellow tint. I prefer the pink tint to yellow tint. Therefore, for me, the N219b is the better choice.

The benefit of the 219c is that it uses less power, but it does not have better color imo. So for a Tint Snob, the N219b is the better option. For a Brightness snob, the N219c is a better choice, but this is the Tint Snob thread :)

Extremely informative

I thank you
 

staticx57

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I'm going to wager more 219Bs are seen as rosy as there tends to be more red in them.

Most 219Bs we see are R9050. Meaning CRI minimum 90 and R9 minimum 50. Most 219Cs we see are R8000 meaning CRI minimum 80 and R9 minimum 0.
 

Tachead

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I'm going to wager more 219Bs are seen as rosy as there tends to be more red in them.

Most 219Bs we see are R9050. Meaning CRI minimum 90 and R9 minimum 50. Most 219Cs we see are R8000 meaning CRI minimum 80 and R9 minimum 0.

The new 4000K ones that I believe Jon was talking about are R9050 as well. They are being used in many new lights including several from Eagletac, some from Reylight, some from Manker, etc. Some have reported that they often have a slightly greenish tint. I have more then one 4000K 219B R9050 example with a slightly greenish tint as well however.
 
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