The Titanium "Haiku"

[stoli67]

Great news... amazingly as soon as I wrote the last post my new AW cells turned up...


I charged them straight away.... and the UI functions much better...


It is much easier to change from hi to low....

Stoli67

 

[McGizmo]

stoli67,
The more experience I have with the 3S converter the more I realize that as the battery gets taxed for power while driving the LED at the high level, the more finicky it becomes in its ability to shift to low from high. The warm XP-G LED's I am working with seem to typically have a higher Vf than the cool and stock LED's and as a result are more demanding of the power source.

The SunDrops on the other hand with their lower drive current to the Nichia 083 are much easier to shift through levels even though they have relatively high Vf's.

I believe the controller could have been programmed to always come on at a given level but my choice was for it to come on in the last level used. If the controller was set to always come on in low for instance, I would guess that the shifting out of high would not be an issue at times but this is just a guess. These are black boxes to me. The point is moot though because I have a bunch of these drivers on hand and they will be lasting me for a while here. I am not compelled to make any change if and when the time comes to have a new run of converters made, either.

To anticipate an alternate suggestion for the future, I have a very strong aversion to a converter that is capable of being programmed via a bunch of presses and pushes and incantations. If I were capable of converter design and programming I might be more comfortable with such an approach but I'm not. :shrug:

Anyway, glad to hear that the latest cells are more friendly in the light for you!! :thumbsup:

 

[stoli67]

You were 100% correct about the batteries when you emalied me!

It is so much better ... I am thrilled...

Obviously those Ultrafires are not a patch on the AWs...


Is it worth trying the IMRs?


Stoli67

 

[LiveForNight]

I want to start by saying the Haiku XR-E is a no bullsh** flashlight. I almost bought the thing just to prove to myself that all the hipe was nonsense. I figured that if it was I would just sell it and be done. Wrong! This thing is great. No rings in the beam at all that I can tell. The colors of everything I shine it on are as true to life as any light I own including my 20 or so incans. The feel in the hand is almost perfect and comfortable for my hand size. The power output is perfect for a lightweight portable daily use flashlight. I can do handstands and the clip keeps it in my pocket. It's attractive and well balanced. It doesn't get too hot running a long time on high. The switch is light enough to press comfortably but not too light. The grip is sure and solid but not sharp or rough. It's watertight. What the F! I can't find anything wrong with it!

I do have two questions though:

I just bought SFfanman's old Haiku. I don't see the PWM or flicker at all! What am I looking for? Is it supposed to look like a high speed blink. Could it be that my batteries ar different? Newer?

Also, this light must have been heavily carried because it is scratched very lightly all over. What can I do to polish it up?

Thanks in advance,

 

[GregWormald]

Also, this light must have been heavily carried because it is scratched very lightly all over. What can I do to polish it up?

Any mild polish for stainless steel or chrome works well. I use Autosol--a German made paste polish and a soft cloth. I'm sure your local car accessories place would have a selection.

Greg

 

[run4jc]

I just bought SFfanman's old Haiku. I don't see the PWM or flicker at all! What am I looking for? Is it supposed to look like a high speed blink. Could it be that my batteries ar different? Newer?

Also, this light must have been heavily carried because it is scratched very lightly all over. What can I do to polish it up?

Thanks in advance,

Glad you like it - that was once my Haiku! Great light - and just so you know, I could NEVER see the PWM flicker either. I think some people are more sensitive to it than others. Also, it seems that those who could see it saw less of it, or none at all, when using RCR batteries rather than primaries.

And as GregWormald said, any good polish will take those scratches away. For a "just like new" look, get yourself some extra fine Scotchbrite pads and do a light buffing, then follow that up with a polish (I prefer Wenol - you can get it here - a tube lasts forever and you won't believe the amount of oxidization you'll remove) with a soft cloth and it'll look just like new!

Enjoy that light - it's a great first McGizmo - but I'll bet it won't be your last! :devil: :twothumbs

 

[McGizmo]

LIveForNight,
Glad you like the light! The only way I can see the PWM is by putting the light in low and waving it rapidly in hand and looking down at the source from the side. I can see a broken streak of light. I gather others can detect the PWM even with the light stationary but I am not one of those. I am confident that if you try wand waving with the light on low and likely medium as well, you will be able to detect the PWM.

On a related note, the 6V LE that I am now using in the Makai 6V 2x123 offering can also be used as a driver for a Haiku 2x123 although I would set the current down to the 650 mA range because of the smaller head. I don't plan to offer such a light in any wave but it can be built on request. The reason I bring this up is that I can't detect the PWM in the 6V LE on low even with the wand waving technique. I would be curious if those sensitive to PWM can detect the PWM in the 6V LE. :shrug: :thinking:

 

[LiveForNight]

Thanks to all for the help. Since I don't plan on waving it around I guess I'll just forget about PWM. I will try a few of the suggestions on polishing and let you know how it goes.

Edit: Thanks run4jc the Scotchbrite pads and Brasso worked perfectly (I didn't want to order the Wenol since I already had Brasso on hand). I can't see any more marks after a fair amount of elbow grease.

 

[Moddoo]

The light comes on at the same level it was at before unless you have turned it back on in less than a second of having it turned off; in which case it cycles to the next level. In other words a very short off cycle is what shifts the speed.

I've just received my first Haiku. high CRI model.
Wonderful light. Very happy with the build, output, and tint.

1 question regarding the UI:
My light will not change levels unless the power interrupt is extremely short. I'm talking roughly 100ms or less. Nowhere near the 1 second stated. Is this normal, or may there be something wrong with this particular light.

Thank You

 

[stoli67]

No mine is the same.....

Something to do with the driver..... seems to work better with fresh IMRs for some reason..... It is the only minor problem with the light IMO.

 

[nbp]

They seem to need some "break in" too. I know that doesn't make any sense as it is electronics, but mine were glitchier when they were brand new, but after I cycled through a couple dozen times, they change much more reliably, even with primaries. Maybe it was more a matter of training my thumb, but it seemed that after some playing, it cycled through the modes easier. Might be worth a try. Just quick click 30 times and see what happens..

 

[PoliceScannerMan]

I would prefer a 100ms switch time. Nothing worse than switching the brightness unintentionally.

 

[precisionworks]

The switching time is very short but is not difficult to master. IMO The mcclicky switch Is better than everything else on the market.
Trying to fast click a flat tail cap Like those on some other lights is nearly impossible for me. But I have no difficulty with this light.

 

[Obijuan Kenobe]

My Gizmo's switch levels much more irregularly on primary 123's, and on dying cells in general.

Gosh I love the McClicky switch.

obi

 

[stoli67]

I would love to get another haiku XML with a FETtie switch in it!

I will send Jesse a message and see if he can make one small enough.

 

[shelm]

what's the exact weight of the Titanium Haiku? (without batteries, and with batteries)

 

[scout24]

Exactly 79g (2.78oz) empty, 98.7g (3.450z) with an AW black label RCR. Which weighs 4.2g more than a SF primary. YMMV.

 

[shelm]

Thanks for the answer!! The 79g is then exact double weight of my quark AA (45g) which i edc clipped to my front left trouser pocket. i dont even want to pocket carry my p1a (59g!) because of the weight difference to my quark, i am serious about it.

so you Haiku owners dont really care about/mind the weight? (at least it's not as heavy as the HDS Ra Clicky lol)

i do like the looks and the material of Ti lights, but in terms of practicality (pocket clip reversible, weight, change heads/UI, dimensions, AA/14500, ..) imho the quark still beats the Haiku Ti. i dont want to launch a discussion; to each his own. If i owned the Haiku Ti, i'd use it as shelf-queen; and then ask myself over and over again why i had bought it if i prefer to actually use/edc my quark.

Too heavy for my taste. Same with HDS. Oh well. Not a big deal to you guys, so let's move on. Thanks again for the numbers!

 

[nbp]

I carry a Haiku and a Mule clipped to my front left pocket. I haven't noticed the weight being an issue.

Besides, when you add in the weight of a leather wallet, an iPhone, a mid sized folder, a Prybaby, a Ti Mako, a chapstick, some keys, and whatever else finds its way into my pockets, what's a couple grams?

But if you really wouldn't carry it for that reason, don't buy it. McGizmos aren't made to sit on shelves anyways.

 

[scout24]

Amen, nbp.