Tiara / Tiara Pro. Multi-flashlights

chadvone

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I have a Tiara C1 Pro. I asked about voltage indication. Post 25 and 26. You said they had it. You provided a link with the correct manual.
My Tiara C1 Pro V2 Does not have voltage indication.

On a Positive note. I love The Tiara, Wizard and my Prime Pro A1.
 

ArmyTek

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I have a Tiara C1 Pro. I asked about voltage indication. Post 25 and 26. You said they had it. You provided a link with the correct manual.
My Tiara C1 Pro V2 Does not have voltage indication.

On a Positive note. I love The Tiara, Wizard and my Prime Pro A1.

Hi! Thank you for your message. Please contact [email protected]. As I told in previous posts I guess it was a pre-release batch. Our specialist will answer you in details.

Thank you, Chad, for staying positive with our products!!
 

Woods Walker

The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
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I am working on a comparison video of the Armytek Tiara Pro A1 V2 vs Fenix HL50 for my Youtube channel. On the negative the Tiara died. I figured the HL50 won by default and was getting ready to ship the Tiara back to the dealer however chadvone made an interesting observation of something I suspected. Somehow the Tiara got accidentally switched into 14500 mode and the would no longer function as the voltage cutoff to prevent over discharge of unprotected 14500 would be too high for 1xAA primary or NiMH. So I decided to try this.



I could have done this when the light failed in the field as carry some wire in my PSK and extra AAs if I known. Instructions would have made this easier and more information about the 14500 option would have helped. Also the online manual isn't up to date so Armytek should make an appendix showing any changes until the online manual is properly updated IMHO. Ok so I don't use 14500, though do use 18650 so familiar with this battery type. I speculated the cut off voltage would have to be around 2.8 volts but not exactly sure. A new alkaline is 1.5 volts. 2 X 1.5 = 3 volts. That would provide enough power to run the light allowing me to reset it. If I was able to do this by mistake it's too easy to do. Here is what I found within the online manual:

"To access the Menu press and hold the switch button (when the flashlight is switched off). It will switch on, go through the all availablemodes and then switch off again. After switching off, release the button quickly and click it rapidly again. The flashlight will enter theMenu and the LED will flash about 3 times a second."

But I access modes by allowing the light to go through all available modes as sometimes can't make up my mind. Switching on and off is easy to do as that's natural. A single and double click is also perfectly natural. Do two clicks and the light is now dead and can't be easily recovered. I never noticed a flashing indicating the special power mode was on but then again I was clicking buttons. Also no manual didn't help. Once the mistake was done the light was dead and I was miles in the woods. I had another flashlight so it wasn't the end of the world.

For this issue alone.

Pros:

Clearly the voltage cut-off feature for running unprotected 14500 works.

Cons:

The light can too easily be totally disabled without knowing how or why. If there was more info about the light that is up current and included that might have helped. Or maybe a less intuitive sequence of events to enter the power management special mode. Then again if it's too complex that could be a problem as well. Heck if I know.

Once I got the Tiara going again the headlamp today past the dunk test. :) Or rather submerging in a cold brook and then took a **** and after some time removed. Unfortunately the headband was soaking wet and it's December. LOL! I am going to order some 14500 batteries as well.
 
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Woods Walker

The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
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Hi! Thank you for your message. Please contact [email protected]. As I told in previous posts I guess it was a pre-release batch. Our specialist will answer you in details.

Thank you, Chad, for staying positive with our products!!

The one I just got a week ago also doesn't have the Voltage indication using the main LED as stated in the online manual. Like his it just skips over that option however I can tell to some degree based on the power button. Green to red. That feature was shown and is actually there. Personally it wouldn't be worth shipping the light to China just for that if somehow the missing mode was a mistake on Armytek's part. For all I know it was removed and the manual isn't up to date. Just something I don't use. Maybe Chad will let us know in the Tiara thread what's going on with that.
 

chadvone

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I really wanted the voltage indication in the Prime flashlights I have. My first didn't have it. The V2 I have does.
I noticed the only time I checked it was after the Button changed colors. I mistakenly told Woods Walker that the Tiara V2's had it because of what I read in this thread. My Wizard has it. Again, after initial playing with it. I just use the flashing button. It is not a deal breaker for me.

As a headlamp (on your head) I can't see the button. There you have the Main Led flash. Then the step down. There is enough time to mind your surroundings before changing cells. As I was typing this my Wizard double flashed. 10 minutes later, another double flash, 10 seconds later it dropped to firefly. 18650 gave me 10 minute warning. It is not near as long on the Tiaras.
 

chadvone

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Also the YELLOW flashing button is not 50%. My Wizard ran 21.5 hours with green flashing button. At 25.5 hours it went into firefly. This is not an issue on the Wizard , still gave me 4 hours after yellow flash. 10 minutes after main led flash.
I believe this could be an issue on Tiara C1 and A1 because of the much smaller capacity.

What would be Ideal to me for a Tiara that might be on my head long periods of time. Would be.
Have the main LED double flash at a true 50%. And have double flash once after every turn on when cell below 50%.
Make a 25% flash a 2x double flash of main led. Correct the button flashes to these actual percentages. Green >50%. Yellow <50%. Red <25%
Ok, so maybe I am dreaming about V3 V4. Stick with it Armytek. I really like these lights.
 
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ArmyTek

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Thank you for such detailed information! But if it doesn`t work properly it will be better to replace it.
I will send this information to our technical manager.
 

chadvone

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I just ordered Prime C2 Pro Warm. I will test it. If it is different I will know Wizard is defective. If it is the same, you will know you have some issues to work out in V3 or V4.
 

Woods Walker

The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
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Woods Walker

The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
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New England woods.
Ok the winter is still on and the Tiara is still alive. For those who want to know the Tiana's cold weather performance it has been on several sub zero fahrenheit outings, one as around -10 F with windchill beyond crazy. Really high winds.



Look at that crazy subzero wind as the sun was heading down. The fire was practically trying to run away. LOL!



So what did I find out from the sub zero outings with my Tiara V2 pro.

1. It does work with L91 lithium primaries but can't hold the highest mode for long. Runs all the rest of the modes beyond the 3 click just fine which is more than good enough.

2. Button is a bit hard to operate with gloves but not the worst.

3. The headband and holder were comfortable in extreme cold and worked well with a hat. That's actually the primary reason why it was often fielded.

4. The warm tint is kinda nice in the snow.

That's all for now. So far buying this headlamp wasn't a mistake.
 

ArmyTek

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Ok the winter is still on and the Tiara is still alive. For those who want to know the Tiana's cold weather performance it has been on several sub zero fahrenheit outings, one as around -10 F with windchill beyond crazy. Really high winds.

Thank you for your pics and report:goodjob:
 

svhunter

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Feb 7, 2014
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Hello Armytek, I have hooked up a lot of people in my area with your lights. I have one major issue with the v2 models over the v1s. When the battery level gets low in the v1s the light steps down the the next lower level but keeps giving max output as allowed by the battery. The new ones have the low level warning and then very soon after drops to firefly, which is basically the same as turning off. The Tiara A1 and C1 sometimes don't even give the warning flashes. Especially the A1 running on Alkaline AAs. This is extremely annoying if your under a machine and have grease all over your hands and suddenly your in the dark. Or worse, if your riding bike down a trail in the woods for example and suddenly your headlights just go out. Is there any way to get back to the v1 way or at least explain why the change. If its not fixed I'll be looking toward other brands that I don't like as much over all but don't just leave you in the dark. Thanks
 

Woods Walker

The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
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New England woods.
Hello Armytek, I have hooked up a lot of people in my area with your lights. I have one major issue with the v2 models over the v1s. When the battery level gets low in the v1s the light steps down the the next lower level but keeps giving max output as allowed by the battery. The new ones have the low level warning and then very soon after drops to firefly, which is basically the same as turning off. The Tiara A1 and C1 sometimes don't even give the warning flashes. Especially the A1 running on Alkaline AAs. This is extremely annoying if your under a machine and have grease all over your hands and suddenly your in the dark. Or worse, if your riding bike down a trail in the woods for example and suddenly your headlights just go out. Is there any way to get back to the v1 way or at least explain why the change. If its not fixed I'll be looking toward other brands that I don't like as much over all but don't just leave you in the dark. Thanks

On my A1 V2 I get some flashes as a warning so stop running or hiking then drop it down a level and change the battery. At no time does it seem to go totally out but will keep a mental note next incidence. The only time it just STOPS dead is when using protected lithium ion and the light is set for Alkalines/NiMH. I think it does this as the battery protection circuit kicks in because the headlamp is acting (and correctly so) as a battery vampire so runs the cell down. I could set it for lithium ion but then it won't run primaries as the voltage is just too low (so as not to dangerously rundown non protected lithium ion). I wouldn't run these or any other high drain headlamp or flashlight on alkanes as I don't think that chemistry can support the higher draw. They do work however not as well and this isn't just Armytek either rather the nature of the beast.

My advice is to run LSD eneloops or Duraloops, Duracell rebadged eneloops. Next time my NiMH runs down I will report what happens so as to be exact. Often it's all on the fly.
 

Woods Walker

The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
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New England woods.
I have a well used lithium primary that was immediately changed out during some nasty bushwhacking and gorge climbing the other night. I will run it on the second level of the primary group and see what happens tonight.
 

svhunter

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Feb 7, 2014
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Is your A1 the pro version or standard. I don't think you can set the battery type in the standard version but I may be wrong. I run mostly eneloops (obviously not in the wizards) but sometimes a simple alkaline aa is the most convenient source to use. I have had v1 wizards and v1 tiaras and also now have played with v2 wizards and tiaras after getting complaints since I am the flashlight guru that gets people exited about 'real' lights. I know its not just the nature of the beast because I have a wizard (18650) and my dad and uncle both have v1 tiaras they run great on alkaline batteries and step down incrementally, so I know it is possible. If this is the way they work I'll probably go toward Fenix,or Nitecore (they do step down, unless they have changed really recently, I've had them too) or something else that steps down instead of dumping you in the dark. Just another example, we are farmers who actually use these lights very hard and getting left in the dark is not an option when using a tractor for work and the lights on the tractor don't work so the headlight takes there place very effectively... until it cuts off. I love these armytek lights, no other headlamp touches them in my opinion, I just know what they had and now they are not the same and just thought they ought to know my opinion, if they don't thats fine.
 

svhunter

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And I do appreciate your help. I don't mean to come across as majorly peeved, I'm just disappointed in them that's all.
 
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