Which DT8K emitter for best runtime and flood?

[PaladinNO]

Greetings!

I keep reading about Emisar and specifically "Hank lights" around here, so I googled around and found this site:

LED Flashlight-INTL Outdoor Store

intl-outdoor.com

(Main Emisar site, as I understand it.)

Currently looking at the DT8K, as the design really piqued my interest:

DT8K 1*21700 8 LEDS High Power LED FLASHLIGHT

<p><span style="font-size: medium;"><strong>Warning</strong>: Output will be dependent on cell model (incl.age) and temperature.</span></p> <p><span style="font-size: medium;">Emisar DT8K puts a high lumen output but generates a lot of heat at the same t

intl-outdoor.com

But I would like some tips about which emitter should I go for? What I am looking for is a pocketable work light, like attaching underneath the hood of the car.
Have currently selected the SST-20 4000K, 95 CRI emitter.

Would like a short-range, HCRI full-flood with no hotspots. Best possible runtime and a yellowy tint would also be great.
Maximum output is not interesting, so is the "boost driver" a good option?.I see it listed as more efficient, and reducing heat and improving runtime, but lessen the max turbo (on paper, that sounds perfect for me).

I know some of the emitters listed, and Kelvin-values, but some of the other options don't mean much to me, like dome vs de-dome. I think de-dome means longer throw / a more prominent hotspot, which I do NOT want.

Will order in a week, when the next paycheck comes...because my stupid, whiny wallet says it won't allow it today.

Will also get a Noctigon K9.3, but I already got that one spec'ed:

Noctigon K9.3 DUAL CHANNEL 7400lm 21700 LED FLASHLIGHT - LED Flashlights

<p><span style="font-size: medium;">2 fast clicks and hold the 3rd click to swap between two channels when the light is on. </span></p> <p><span style="font-size: medium;">Channel 1 uses 9A+direct drive (except the E21A version, with 9A constant current

intl-outdoor.com

I assume the all the lights offers some form of output stepping, and some control of the auxiliary lights (as shown in many of the product pictures), because I can't find that mentioned anywhere.

And lastly, is VAT / taxes included in the price from intl-outdoor?
I get the sense they aren't, and that I should prepare for a +25% surprise bill when recieving the order.

 

[vicv]

It's a neat light. But if going with the boost driver I'd just go with the d4k instead. This is more of a wow light, because there's 8 emitters. But boost driver will be significantly less bright, probably comparable to the quad d4k. Unless it's just about looks. Then go for the big boy!

You are correct a dedome increases throw. But with such floody optics it won't change much. It will be floody regardless.
As for vat no idea, I'm too Canadian to understand that, so I'd keep money aside for it.
These lights come with anduril 2 which has temp controlled automatic step down. And it's based on temp not time. You can adjust it for more sustained output, but it will get hotter.
As for aux, you have some reading to do to get acquainted with anduril. I'll include a chart here. But basically 7C(7 clicks in a row) goes between low, high, flashing, off. 7H(hold on 7th click) to change through colours

 

[PaladinNO]

It's a neat light. But if going with the boost driver I'd just go with the d4k instead. This is more of a wow light, because there's 8 emitters. But boost driver will be significantly less bright, probably comparable to the quad d4k. Unless it's just about looks. Then go for the big boy!

As for aux, you have some reading to do to get acquainted with anduril. I'll include a chart here. But basically 7C(7 clicks in a row) goes between low, high, flashing, off. 7H(hold on 7th click) to change through colours

Thank you very much, that was a lot of useful information. I've looked briefly at the Anduril operating manual, but not that much, as I haven't had such a light yet.

And yes, this one is definitely...at least mostly for the looks. Won't beat my 12x 18650 Fenix TK76 for sheer "wow"-factor, but that is essentially why I'm getting the DT8K. Want it to be useful too though.

But it sounds like the SST-20 4000K is good enough for what I want then, eh?

I am also looking at the more wacky options, like the D1K or DM11 with the W2 Green emitter. Or D4K with the E17A Azure. Also considering my first Titanium light (D4KTi - boost driver, 519A, 4500K with dome).

Never seen so many options before - and thus have never been able to go crazy with custom lights - and as I am currently in the market for some 21700 lights, I thought I would treat myself.
...Once the wallet gives me an update for what it will allow.

 

[vicv]

Ya. The wallet recovery is the problem. I just bought a dm11 last night. And now I see Wurkkos has an orange ts10 with rgb aux. ORANGE!
Sst-20 4k is an excellent emitter. I do prefer 519a though. It's just a little bit pink. Whereas sst-20 is slightly green. Not objectionable by any means, but still prefer the nichia. And it will be slightly floodier if the dome is left on.

 

[PaladinNO]

Sst-20 4k is an excellent emitter. I do prefer 519a though. It's just a little bit pink. Whereas sst-20 is slightly green. Not objectionable by any means, but still prefer the nichia. And it will be slightly floodier if the dome is left on.

The "519A 4500K (or 3500K) with dome" option on the DT8K adds another 19.80 USD to the cost ($67.62 -> $87.42). Whereas the SST-20 is nothing extra.
Is it the special 8 LED head that makes the dome / dedomed version so much more expensive? $20 for a dome option is double or more than what I see on most of the other lights. The 519A is also only CRI90 from what I find.

The SST-20 is an older emitter as far as I know, and while it seems the green tint is not desirable by the majority, I'm still finding my way in the tint jungle, so I'm good with either the green or pink / "rosy" tint to see what it looks like. All my current lights, as far as I can tell, either have a blueish or yellowy tint. And I certainly don't like the blue tint.

I appreciate the suggestion (and personal preferences was exactly what I asked for), but I think I'll take the SST-20 for the DT8K.
I am looking at the 519A 4500K with dome + boost driver for a D4KTi though (I don't like pocketable throwers (500+ meters) - throwers needs to be big enough to be tripod mounted, and for cooling, to make sense in my book). But a D4KTi will only happen if my wallet gets a happy finish once my recently upgraded paycheck (junior -> senior position) comes next friday.

Also, the Wurkkos TS10 with orange auxiliary lights looked awesome. I expected something more like 2200-2700K amber, but that actually is orange.

Too small for me though, at 14500 size. I have a few 16340 Jetbeam EC-R16's and a 18350 Thrunite Neutron 2C v3, and I've sadly lost one of the Jetbeam's due to the small size. Nearly lost both my Coast G10 and G19 once each too. Is this why every light should have auxiliary lights? To see the glow if they're accidentally dropped into darkness? xD

 

[vicv]

I believe the 519 a is just a more expensive LED which is why there's the up charge. And they are more like 96 to 98 CRI. Not that you're going to be to tell much of a difference. I do believe that the beam they make is worth the extra money, it's just a more pleasing color, but that is totally up to you, of course. The SST-20
4000 K definitely has no flies on it and you won't be disappointed. The 5000k…..not so much

 

[PaladinNO]

There are so many new emitters on the market since I was last shopping for lights, such as the 519A and the E21A.
All of my current "special" lights (where emitter and Kelvin even was an option) are either Nichia 219B or 219C.

I own both 6000K and 2700K lights, and...6000K is way too cold and 2700K is way too yellow for my liking, so I'm staying between 3500K and 5000K from now on.
And yeah, if the 519A is CRI96-98 (which makes more sense - didn't really trust google on the CRI90-thing), it won't be noticable from CRI95. At least not for my intended applications.

I recently got a Fireflies PL47MU E21A, but I haven't even been able to test it as I don't have any suitable (unprotected) 21700 batteries.
Ordered several Samsung 40T flat-tops yesterday, but...they're not here yet. :/

 

[vicv]

There are so many new emitters on the market since I was last shopping for lights, such as the 519A and the E21A.
All of my current "special" lights (where emitter and Kelvin even was an option) are either Nichia 219B or 219C.

I own both 6000K and 2700K lights, and...6000K is way too cold and 2700K is way too yellow for my liking, so I'm staying between 3500K and 5000K from now on.
And yeah, if the 519A is CRI96-98 (which makes more sense - didn't really trust google on the CRI90-thing), it won't be noticable from CRI95. At least not for my intended applications.

I recently got a Fireflies PL47MU E21A, but I haven't even been able to test it as I don't have any suitable (unprotected) 21700 batteries.
Ordered several Samsung 40T flat-tops yesterday, but...they're not here yet. :/

Try an 18650 is that FF. Will probably work. I've been able to use an 18650 in all my 21700 lights.
As for cri, there's more to an emitters beam than cri. Tint is almost as important I'd say. I know if I compare my sst-20 and 519a lights, there's no comparison which I like more. Even the little csp LEDs in the ts10 are beautiful. Better colour than the sst-20. They're all 4000k 95+ cri.
Not trying to sway your decision just saying. The 519 a is the first time that I have had an LED light that I have enjoyed using as much as a well driven incandescent. The beam is that good.

Edit. Somehow I missed you had 219b. Ok then you know. The 519a is just its bigger much more powerful cousin.

 

[PaladinNO]

Try an 18650 is that FF. Will probably work. I've been able to use an 18650 in all my 21700 lights.

THANK YOU(!!!) for this!

I got a pair of flat-top Fenix ARB-L2 18650's on loan from a friend right now (trying to get my Sunwayman T45C to work properly, but it just keeps shutting itself off), and that worked perfectly in the Fireflies! Damn, the Nichia E21A Mix 3800K tint and flood beam looked beautiful!
This is my first light with auxiliary lights...and I could buy more lights, just with that!

As for the emitters, I will take the SST-20 4000K in the DT8K (sorry)...but if the wallet allows for a 3rd light next weekend, I will also get a D4K, and get a 519A (3500K with dome) in that one. Only additional $8 for the 519 in the D4K, and that's much more acceptable than $19.80 for a 519A in the DT8K.

EDIT:
It's the D4K dual channel I am looking at.

Dual Channel D4K 21700 EDC High Power Led Flashlight

<p><span style="font-size: medium;">This is dual channel version, for the single channel version, please <a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4k-1-21700-high-power-quad-edc-led-flashlight.html">click here</a>.</span></p> <p> </p> <p><span styl

intl-outdoor.com

519A 3500K / 4500K with dome + W2 Green.

 

[3_gun]

I went with a duel channel DT8 with one channel floody with a frosted lens & the second a thrower with a clear lens. Works out great as the light is set up to come on with both channels but I seldom need to stay with both, instead using it like 2 D4v2 lights, a flood or throw as needed. I just wish I had held off until the DT8k came out. I'm not sure if I'd even buy another Hank light that isn't a duel channel & a 21700 at this point. Set up well [& it took a couple tries to get it right] the duel channel lights really will work as if it is two different lights to save power or can really cover a expanse with a broad & deep reach if needed at the cost of run time

 

[vicv]

THANK YOU(!!!) for this!

I got a pair of flat-top Fenix ARB-L2 18650's on loan from a friend right now (trying to get my Sunwayman T45C to work properly, but it just keeps shutting itself off), and that worked perfectly in the Fireflies! Damn, the Nichia E21A Mix 3800K tint and flood beam looked beautiful!
This is my first light with auxiliary lights...and I could buy more lights, just with that!

As for the emitters, I will take the SST-20 4000K in the DT8K (sorry)...but if the wallet allows for a 3rd light next weekend, I will also get a D4K, and get a 519A (3500K with dome) in that one. Only additional $8 for the 519 in the D4K, and that's much more acceptable than $19.80 for a 519A in the DT8K.

EDIT:
It's the D4K dual channel I am looking at.

Dual Channel D4K 21700 EDC High Power Led Flashlight

<p><span style="font-size: medium;">This is dual channel version, for the single channel version, please <a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4k-1-21700-high-power-quad-edc-led-flashlight.html">click here</a>.</span></p> <p> </p> <p><span styl

intl-outdoor.com

519A 3500K / 4500K with dome + W2 Green.

You're welcome glad it worked for you. They rattle and can lose connection if banged around, but to play with your light while waiting for proper cells to show up….they work pretty well
Don't apologize for emitter choice. You did well. If you had gotten sst-20 5000k, then you'd owe yourself an apology, the 4000k emitters are excellent. And it's all personal choice. And $18 is a lot. I paid a $15 premium for my emitter choice. But most of that is the boost driver required
W2 green should be fun

 

[vicv]

I went with a duel channel DT8 with one channel floody with a frosted lens & the second a thrower with a clear lens. Works out great as the light is set up to come on with both channels but I seldom need to stay with both, instead using it like 2 D4v2 lights, a flood or throw as needed. I just wish I had held off until the DT8k came out. I'm not sure if I'd even buy another Hank light that isn't a duel channel & a 21700 at this point. Set up well [& it took a couple tries to get it right] the duel channel lights really will work as if it is two different lights to save power or can really cover a expanse with a broad & deep reach if needed at the cost of run time

Ya I was really after the d4sv2 for the same reason, but ended up grabbing a dm11 instead. I'm sure one will be in my future. I just wanted something less floody

 

[defloyd77]

Have you done the order yet?

If not maybe consider emailing Hank for a 3000K and 4000K SST-20 mix. Don't have experience with this mix myself, but have seen photos and videos with it and it looks pretty nice.

I don't have any experience with the SST-20 bin Hank uses, but I think the emitter gets an unfairly bad rep for being green, but most of the ones I have are nicely golden tinted.

 

[vicv]

Have you done the order yet?

If not maybe consider emailing Hank for a 3000K and 4000K SST-20 mix. Don't have experience with this mix myself, but have seen photos and videos with it and it looks pretty nice.

I don't have any experience with the SST-20s Hank uses, but I think the emitter gets an unfairly bad rep for being green, but most of the ones I have are nicely golden tinted.

I think it the 5000k that everyone hates as green. My sample of one wasn't too bad. But every 4000k I've had has been pretty neutral and nice

 

[defloyd77]

I think it the 5000k that everyone hates as green. My sample of one wasn't too bad. But every 4000k I've had has been pretty neutral and nice

I see people saying it for the 4000K one too. I have 8 (I think?) lights with it and only 1 is offensively green (Wurkkos TS21). The rest are pretty nice, 2 of which are absolutely beautiful and hold their own when compared side by side with Nichias. Those are in my Malkoff MDC AA and Skilhunt E3A.

 

[vicv]

I see people saying it for the 4000K one too. I have 8 (I think?) lights with it and only 1 is offensively green (Wurkkos TS21). The rest are pretty nice, 2 of which are absolutely beautiful and hold their own when compared side by side with Nichias. Those are in my Malkoff MDC AA and Skilhunt E3A

Must be a tiny lottery. My ts21 is pretty good

 

[defloyd77]

Must be a tiny lottery. My ts21 is pretty good

Definitely. My Wurkkos WK01 and WK02 have good tints. It really depends on how much the company is willing to spend to get good and consistent binning.

 

[PaladinNO]

Okay, I finally got the Emisar order in, after going almost mad by all the emitter options.

I landed on this:
Noctigon K9.3
Green body + Amber switch LED
E21A, 3500K + Osram W1 Green
$94.48

Usecase is a walking + fun walking light.

DT8K
Cyan body + Red switch LED
E21A, 4500K
Added magnet in tailcap
$79.51

Usecase is a floody work light.

And, after going mostly mad from trying to decide, I decided NOT to get a dual-channel D4KTI. It would have been spec'ed like this:
219BT, 4500K + Osram W1 Amber
Additional floody optic

Would have been my first, shiny Ti-light, that I think looks so nice. Thermal properties be damned.
But I need a proper Acebeam EC50 replacement more than I need a lovable Titanium light right now.

 

[PaladinNO]

Just a small follow-up here:

I had some questions / concerns regarding these lights that I couldn't find mentioned anywhere on their site, so I sent some quick questions to intl-outdoor (was Hank who replied to me within hours with the answers):

Q: What is the default optics in the DT8K? I would like my DT8K to be as floody as possible.
A: The DT8K you ordered will be with the frosted optics, which the beam is very floody.

Q: What are the available auxiliary light colours in both of these lights?
A: Both DT8K and K9.3 use RGB aux LEDs, you can choose the color via UI.

Q: Does the Noctigon K9.3 have different output levels on both channels?
A: Yes, both light use ramping UI, you can ramp up and down to choose the desired brightness.

Q: What is a recommended "high drain" battery for these lights? Have ordered some Samsung INR21700-40T flat-tops (35A).
A: The Samsung INR21700-40T flat-top battery is very good for both lights.

Just throwing it out there should anyone else feel the need to ask those custom flashlight newbie questions.