Why low mode first on LED lights? Suggestions?

[Flying Turtle]

Re: Suggestion

I'd like to think the manufacturers finally started listening to all the clamoring many of us have been doing for years. I'm very happy there are more lights that start on low. Those are the only ones I'll consider buying.

Geoff

 

[CamoNinja]

Re: Suggestion

L/M/H only for me.

 

[fishndad]

In the time it took me to read your post I could have cycled my flashlight through LOW-MID-HIGH at least 50 times.

Joking aside, I think LOW first is preferred because it favors keeping night vision (if LOW is low enough).

:laughing::laughing::laughing:

 

[Grizzman]

jbrett14, if you've really "never" needed your EDC light to come on to low, it should be safe to say that you are the exception, not the norm. There aren't many average everyday tasks that can't be easily accomplished with 5-10 lumens, and I'd much rather go up in brightness than down.

I really like the UI of my ZL 502D, and the turn on flexibility it offers. I think you would like an SC51 or SC80C, even if they aren't quite mini sized.

Grizz

 

[LG&M]

L/M/H for me. In fact I almost got a Eagletac D25 yesterday. I saw it is Backasswards with H/M/L so I will keep looking. I am not a cop or any other "Operator" that needs a blinding light as fast as I can get it. If I do I would not be looking for a AA clicky. IMO a EDC light should start on low how hard is it to go to med then high? but once your night vision is gone it gone for at least 10-20 minuets. I can remember when 60 Lm was "super bright" and you needed a CR123 X2 to get it. how often do you really need all that light. 20Lm is the all I need most of the time. Sure bright lights are fun but for a pocket light give me L/M/H and a good tint any day.

 

[jbrett14]

I'm not arguing against this, LMH is the only thing that makes sense to me, but what I can't seem to figure out why the mass market headlamps from Petzl and Black Diamond always start out in high? You'd think that if there is one group of customers that all have dark-adapted eyes.... it would be campers!

I think it's because these manufacturers think like I do. And given the testimonies of several who have posted here, it appears that just about ALL the manufacturers thought like I do (once building their lights with H-M-L). They didn't change because THEY thought it was better to go to L-M-H, they did so to not lose SALES. It's always about what can make the most sales. My guess is that the majority of flashlight owners who would buy the two brands in question are not true "flashaholics" and my guess is that most non-flashaholics would prefer to have their lights turn on in HIGH mode. Who knows.

 

[jbrett14]

I think you would like an SC51 or SC80C, even if they aren't quite mini sized.

Grizz

I just bought the SC51 and I do love it, except for the accidental activation of the switch, while in the pocket. If this were not a problem, I would stop looking. Yes, I may be too picky here.

 

[twl]

"Tactical lights" virtually all will come on in High mode, because that is what the priority in a tactical light is.
But in other lights, there may be other priorities.

For me, I always use the Low mode whenever possible, and only switch to Hi when the Low mode is insufficient. But in my lights, I don't really have a moonlight mode for Low(except for my HDS).
My Low modes are bright enough to do most things in my general vicinity, with most of my lights. Typically 10-50 lumens are the Low modes, depending on which light I'm using.

My preference for mode switching is a rotating head for Hi and Low selections, with a on/off/momentary clickie on the tail. This allows me to turn on the light in either hi or low from the off position, and get exactly what I want, without any confusion or error or delay. My preferred set of modes is Hi and Low. I have no use for a smorgasbord of various light levels.
With this method, I can select if I want Hi first, or Low first, from the off position without cycling thru any other brightness modes. And I can select momentary or latched with the tailswitch clickie. And I get exactly what I want immediately with the first click.
That's all I need.

 

[HighlanderNorth]

I have 3 Thrunite Ti AAA lights, and the first mode you get when you twist the bezel is low, BUT....all you have to do is twist it 1/2" further and its on high, so you can choose low or high and get to either mode in less than .3 seconds. You either twist it 1/2" to low or 3/4" to high. It takes about the same amount of time, so I dont see a problem there. They are $15.99 now.

But thats not my EDC light. My BC-10 is my EDC light, and I've got it set on low too. Its got 2 settings, 30L and 270L. The 30L mode is all I need 98% of the time. If I need 270L for some reason, then I just twist the bezel and click the switch. If I needed 270 lumens most of the time then all I have to do is is twist the bezel to high and leave it there, then when I click the switch, it comes on high.

I cant see why anyone would always need high on today's LED lights. Most EDC lights are over 100 lumens on high and some go up to 750L. Why would you need 750L most of the time for ordinary purposes? Do you really need 200-750L to find something that fell behind the sofa?

 

[reppans]

L/M/H for me. In fact I almost got a Eagletac D25 yesterday. I saw it is Backasswards with H/M/L so I will keep looking. I am not a cop or any other "Operator" that needs a blinding light as fast as I can get it. If I do I would not be looking for a AA clicky. IMO a EDC light should start on low how hard is it to go to med then high? but once your night vision is gone it gone for at least 10-20 minuets. I can remember when 60 Lm was "super bright" and you needed a CR123 X2 to get it. how often do you really need all that light. 20Lm is the all I need most of the time. Sure bright lights are fun but for a pocket light give me L/M/H and a good tint any day.

Ummm, you know the D25A clicky is a LMH sequence....I got one, it's a great light.

 

[jbrett14]

"Tactical lights" virtually all will come on in High mode, because that is what the priority in a tactical light is.
But in other lights, there may be other priorities.

For me, I always use the Low mode whenever possible, and only switch to Hi when the Low mode is insufficient. But in my lights, I don't really have a moonlight mode for Low(except for my HDS).
My Low modes are bright enough to do most things in my general vicinity, with most of my lights. Typically 10-50 lumens are the Low modes, depending on which light I'm using.

My preference for mode switching is a rotating head for Hi and Low selections, with a on/off/momentary clickie on the tail. This allows me to turn on the light in either hi or low from the off position, and get exactly what I want, without any confusion or error or delay. My preferred set of modes is Hi and Low. I have no use for a smorgasbord of various light levels.
With this method, I can select if I want Hi first, or Low first, from the off position without cycling thru any other brightness modes. And I can select momentary or latched with the tailswitch clickie. And I get exactly what I want immediately with the first click.
That's all I need.

Sounds like you probably like the JetBeam B-series lights. I do too. This simple set up makes a lot of sense to me - On & Off, in High or Low.

 

[jbrett14]

I have 3 Thrunite Ti AA lights, and the first mode you get when you twist the bezel is low, BUT....all you have to do is twist it 1/2" further and its on high, so you can choose low or high and get to either mode in less than .3 seconds. You either twist it 1/2" to low or 3/4" to high. It takes about the same amount of time, so I dont see a problem there.

But thats not my EDC light. My BC-10 is my EDC light, and I've got it set on low too. Its got 2 settings, 30L and 270L. The 30L mode is all I need 98% of the time. If I need 270L for some reason, then I just twist the bezel and click the switch. If I needed 270 lumens most of the time then all I have to do is is twist the bezel to high and leave it there, then when I click the switch, it comes on high.

I cant see why anyone would always need high on today's LED lights. Most EDC lights are over 100 lumens on high and some go up to 750L. Why would you need 750L most of the time for ordinary purposes? Do you really need 200-750L to find something that fell behind the sofa?

That Thrunite sounds like an interesting UI which sounds better, to me, than having to twist back and forth.

Does that BC-10 not feel too bulky in the pocket?

I agree with you about why would anyone need 200-750 lumens for common use. But I was talking about MINI 1 x AA lights, most of which seem to be around the 100 lumen mark, which is about what I personally need for most of my EDC tasks, such as general home repair work, looking into customer's attics, crawl spaces, and other dark areas that need to be WELL LIT for me to see details (plumbing, electrical, damage, etc.). 30 Lumens doesn't cut it, not even for looking under the hood of my vehicle when need be. Yes, you can see with it, but it is so much clearer with 100+ lumens.

 

[jbrett14]

Does anyone know if the Maratac AA turns on in HIGH mode first?

Can anyone share their opinion of this light?

 

[skyfire]

i understand the need for more light during the day. your eyes are adjusted to the ambient light, so low is not effective when you need to peak into darker spots.
i use my light much more during the evening hours, so i prefer low first like most others . i dislike having to cycle to low from high because you get this bright flash.
and i am probably in the minority here about have L-M-H or any 3 mode cycling. cycling 2 modes is as much as i want to go. fortunate for me surefire makes my ideal UIs in the function of 2-mode clicky w/o memory, 1 or 2 mode momentary, or 1-mode clicky.

my work lights on the other hand, comes on high first. or high only. i work at the airport, and even at night there is a lot of ambient light that my flashlight needs to overcome. but for more casual EDC uses, low is what i use 90% of the time. the low on my surefire L1s range from about 5-10 lumens. which is more than i need, but its always better to have more light than needed, than less light.

surefire L1 gives me instant access to low or high, without any kind of bezel twisting, or clicking, and ive found it ideal for my edc use.
there are quite a few lights which use a single AA, that you have control of it turning on high or low first by its bezel position, usually bezel tight for high or bezel loose for low.

 

[Sub_Umbra]

Does anyone know if the Maratac AA turns on in HIGH mode first?

Can anyone share their opinion of this light?

Its a LMH twisty. Very nice build quality for price. Been EDCing one for a couple years. I like the hard Ano III Nat. Mine is mostly covered with strips of bicycle inner tube.

IMO the Maratac AA is a small, inexpensive, straightforward EDC that the average person will never even notice he's carrying.

I run mine on Ennloops.

 

[bansuri]

Buy more lights! The single light solution is a fallacy.
Mmmmmmm, lights..... keep 'em all over your house, work, car, garage. Moar LIGHTS!

 

[Empire]

My FourSevens Clickies always are on TURBO and then unscrew the head (Like JetBeam) for Low, Mid, High, SOS, Beacon!

 

[ico]

I myself also prefer multi mode light to start at low. Even those with programmable UIs, I start with low. Many has already explained why so I will just suggest lights that may fit your need.
Zebralights: you can acces the high with just 1 click so it may suit your liking. You can actually access low, med, or high from off depending on how many clicks you press

Klarus XT1A - always go on high

Quark AA regular or tactical model. In the regular model, when the head is tightened, it will always open in turbo mode. With the tactical, you can set what mode it always open on.

Fenix Ld10- just like the quark regular UI

Fenix ld12- has mode memory so it always open with the last mode you used

Fenix Ld05- a twisty light that also always starts with high

If you manage to try the Cr123 kinds, there are more to choose from like an HDS or those lights with a magnetic control ring so you can choose how bright the light will open in

 

[the.Mtn.Man]

Why not just make the mode order programmable and give everyone what they want!

Maybe set it to the most common L-M-H by default but make it easy to change. While were at it, allow the user to add/remove modes too.

There are, in fact, several programmable flashlights on the market. The most versitile are HDS, but they're not cheap.

 

[Empire]

There are, in fact, several programmable flashlights on the market. The most versitile are HDS, but they're not cheap.

True true, Hey wait, Peak, KuKu And Rob Cheetham Extrordinary Torches have options for QTC and are VERY well made.
EDIT:Lummi( R. Cheetham ) torches can not be ordered with QTC.
I prefer QTC torches, A great function on torches.