Why Not Use Rechargeable Batteries?

[alpg88]

depends on a light, some may not like lower voltage of nimh. most may have no issues, idk about surefires but maglites are not airtight. head-tube thread is a bit lose, and o ring can't stop gases under pressure. rain even submerging in few feet of water is different, i had 6d maglite in my car when it was flooded by sandy, not a drop inside. but it was in maybe few feet of water for half a night.

 

[fivemega]

Can someone please enlighten me why rechargeable batteries should not be used?

In most cases (NOT ALL) you can use proper rechargeable batteries instead of alkalines.
Big companies don't want to involve legal issues and don't approve usage of rechargeables.
So please educate yourself with all primary and rechargeable batteries then use them safely.

 

[Gt390]

I have had alkaline batteries leak so badly that the head of the light popped off like a champagne cork. This has never occured with eneloops. I would say venting is more of a worry with a regular old alkaline than anything else.

 

[Gt390]

Should have said vent not leak. Although they do like to leak also.

 

[Monocrom]

I've very recently warmed up to using rechargeables of all sorts. In the past, I hated them as all but one flashlight failure I've experienced was due to rechargeable batteries letting me down. As far as flashlight makers go, it's just easier to optimize lights to run off of one type of battery. Usually non-rechargeable primaries. Though nowadays, more and more companies are making dual options for both primaries and rechargeables. Though unless specifically stated as made for both, it's just easier to either use lights that are; or only use primaries.

 

[xxo]

From Mag's FAQs:

"You recommend alkaline batteries for use in all of Mag's AAA, AA, C and D-cell flashlights. But I would prefer to use rechargeable batteries (NiMH) if I can. Is there any reason why NiMH rechargeable batteries can't be used in these lights?

With the exception of the MAG-TAC® flashlight that runs on lithium CR123 batteries, all of Mag's non-rechargeable LED flashlights operate on AAA, AA, C or D-cell batteries. All of our published ANSI-standard performance data (Light Output, Beam Distance, Peak Beam Candlepower and Run Time) are based on testing with alkaline batteries; and when we ship these flashlights with batteries, the batteries we include with them are alkaline. We do this because the designs of these flashlights are optimized for use with (non-rechargeable) alkaline batteries.
Alkaline AAA, AA, C and D batteries standardly have a nominal output of 1.5 volts. NiMH rechargeable batteries in these sizes typically have a somewhat lower nominal output (1.2 volts). Also, the discharge curves of NiMH batteries typically differ from those of alkaline batteries – so the two battery types may behave differently under load.
That said, the flashlights will operate with NiMH rechargeables, and use of NiMH rechargeables will not harm the circuitry nor otherwise damage the flashlights in any way. You should not, however, expect the flashlights' performance to be consistent with our published ANSI data if they are operated with rechargeable batteries. (For example, ANSI Light Output may be lower, and/or ANSI Run Time may be shorter with rechargeable batteries.) The degree of difference is hard to predict. We have noted variation in the quality of NiMH rechargeable batteries on the market, and if you choose the best-quality NiMH batteries you might find that any performance shortfall is, for your purposes, not meaningful.
Bottom line, if you are willing to tolerate a possibly significant decline in flashlight performance, there is no reason you can't substitute rechargeable NiMH batteries for (non-rechargeable) alkalines."


https://maglite.com/support/faq

 

[menowantsmellyfish]

I had just read that on the Maglite website. I am a big Maglite fan for decades (call me old school), I just don't like buying Chinese mass produced lights even if they are quality products. About two years ago I started using NiMh, first Rayovac then Eneloop. I find that the performance as far as how long the batteries last is way shorter than with fresh Duracells. Also, maybe not quite as bright. To me, this is a good trade off as buying boatloads of batteries is expensive and not good for the environment. Since I use these light for work and they get used a lot it makes sense. Add to this, that I had destroyed two Maglites one AA and one 3 D by leaky alkaline batteries. Another AAA was damaged but I saved it. This is almost a good enough reason to use NiMh.

On a side note, I was wondering if anybody had better performance with eneloop Pro (black). The run time on the regular AA LED is not bad, but on the very demanding Maglite Pro LED I constantly have to swap out batteries.

Thanks

 

[xxo]

On a side note, I was wondering if anybody had better performance with eneloop Pro (black). The run time on the regular AA LED is not bad, but on the very demanding Maglite Pro LED I constantly have to swap out batteries.

Thanks

Pros work great, I have some xx's from when they first came out (they were originally called xx before they started calling them pros), plus a bunch of rebranded pros in the form of Duracell Ion Cores and the high capacity Fujitsu "Fujiloops" with black labels - expect about 20-30% extra capacity/run time with these over the standard capacity Eneloops.

 

[menowantsmellyfish]

Pros work great, I have some xx's from when they first came out (they were originally called xx before they started calling them pros), plus a bunch of rebranded pros in the form of Duracell Ion Cores and the high capacity Fujitsu "Fujiloops" with black labels - expect about 20-30% extra capacity/run time with these over the standard capacity Eneloops.

Sounds good, I just have to be careful where I get them. I got some from Ebay a while ago and they turned out to be fakes.

 

[bykfixer]

The eneloop brand was devised to be an alternative to alkaline batteries when it came time to toss them into the trash. Being they were rechargeable made it so the need to tossing them in the trash took a lot longer than single use type. Storage life was also miraculous compared to the rechargeable aa and aaa of the day. Yet supplied voltage was such that they did not damage equipment such as cameras and flashlights.

For years camera stores sold them by the bushel. But along came the virtual extinction of the camera store and along with it Eneloops from a physical store. When Radio Shack and Circuit City collapsed, another source was gone.

In many cases rechargeables send higher output to a device such as a Maglite and may over heat internals over time. One thing not covered is in cases of life or death a low voltage circuit can cause unexpected darkness. That is why some companies speak against using rechargeables. And don't forget those "exploding battery" stories you see from time to time.

But if a light can run off an ultimate lithium cell, it will be fine with one of the Eneloop models. I prefer Pro's myself. Runtimes in regulated lights is great and sag while used in direct drive lights is greatly reduced.

 

[xxo]

Sounds good, I just have to be careful where I get them. I got some from Ebay a while ago and they turned out to be fakes.

Newegg seems to be a good source for Fujiloops and they run sales on them fairly often. You can also get rebranded Eneloop Pros from brick and mortar stores in the form of Duracell Ion Cores or Energizer Recharge Plus (the ones made in Japan). Ikea's Laddas are also apparently rebranded Eneloop pros.

 

[bykfixer]

Good info double x.

 

[menowantsmellyfish]

Newegg seems to be a good source for Fujiloops and they run sales on them fairly often. You can also get rebranded Eneloop Pros from brick and mortar stores in the form of Duracell Ion Cores or Energizer Recharge Plus (the ones made in Japan). Ikea's Laddas are also apparently rebranded Eneloop pros.

Not sure about the Duracell Ion Cores or Energizer, but I had read somewhere that the Ikea are in fact Eneloops but they are seconds (rejects) that they buy in bulk and relabel. You usually get what you pay for.

 

[xxo]

Not sure about the Duracell Ion Cores or Energizer, but I had read somewhere that the Ikea are in fact Eneloops but they are seconds (rejects) that they buy in bulk and relabel. You usually get what you pay for.

I don't have any ladda's but they seem to be pretty much the same as the Eneloops and others in HKJ's tests:

Ladda -

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...w-of-Ikea-Ladda-AA-2450mAh-(White)-703-038-76

Eneloop -

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...Review-of-Eneloop-AA-HR-3UWXB-2450mAh-(Black)

Duracell -

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...w-of-Duracell-AA-Ultra-2400mAh-(Green-Copper)


Fujitsu -

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...Review-of-Fujitsu-AA-HR-3UTHC-2450mAh-(Black)

 

[Curious_character]

I'm using Eneloop cells in everything I own which uses AA or AAA cells, from clocks and TV remotes to flashlights and aviation headsets. I simply got tired of opening something and finding corrosive goo all over -- when it isn't welded shut by the goo, that is. For a long time, it wasn't practical for very low drain devices because of the high self discharge rate of NiMH cells, but it is now. Guess I've been lucky -- I've never experienced any pressurization of air tight devices. But there are two policies I follow religiously:

1. I'm fussy about where I get my Eneloops. There are lots of counterfeits out there.
2. From the time they're new, I keep cells together that are used together -- I have single cells, sets of two, three, four, and more that always stay together.

I've been changing over rectangular 9 volt batteries to rechargeables, too -- mostly Li-ion but some NiMH.

I'll never go back to leaky alkalines.

People who worry about the nominal voltage difference between alkaline and NiMH cells should read this: http://eznec.com/Amateur/1.5_vs_1.2_Volt_Batteries.pdf.

c_c

 

[Sabrewulf]

I've been using eneloops for quite some time and never had issue with them.

I use them in all my devices except my modified lights and larger lights.

 

[xevious]

Newegg seems to be a good source for Fujiloops and they run sales on them fairly often. You can also get rebranded Eneloop Pros from brick and mortar stores in the form of Duracell Ion Cores or Energizer Recharge Plus (the ones made in Japan). Ikea's Laddas are also apparently rebranded Eneloop pros.

What's the "official" name of the "Fujiloop" batteries that are re-wrapped Eneloop Pro?
EDIT: Fujitsu AA: HR-3UTHC, AAA: HR-4UTHC

Btw, beware of Amazon ripoffs. The Ikea LADDA batteries are sold there at just under $20 for a pack of 4. Ikea sells then on their website for $6.99 per 4/pack. But shipping is a whopping $9. So better to buy more than one or added to another order.


What's interesting is that there seems to be a new breakthrough on charge cycles. The standard for most NiMH has been 500 cycles, but now some brands are achieving 2000 cycles and even as high as 5000 cycles.

 

[Curious_character]

What's the "official" name of the "Fujiloop" batteries that are re-wrapped Eneloop Pro?
EDIT: Fujitsu AA: HR-3UTHC, AAA: HR-4UTHC

Btw, beware of Amazon ripoffs. The Ikea LADDA batteries are sold there at just under $20 for a pack of 4. Ikea sells then on their website for $6.99 per 4/pack. But shipping is a whopping $9. So better to buy more than one or added to another order.


What's interesting is that there seems to be a new breakthrough on charge cycles. The standard for most NiMH has been 500 cycles, but now some brands are achieving 2000 cycles and even as high as 5000 cycles.

I think it's more likely that some brands are claiming that many cycles. I believe that as much as I believe claims for battery capacity and flashlight lumen output. Genuine Eneloops are just about the only cells I've ever found that actually have their claimed capacity. But I've never measured the number of cycles they're good for, and I doubt that anyone has actually measured the number of cycles claimed by those other amazing cells.

c_c

 

[WalkIntoTheLight]

I think it's more likely that some brands are claiming that many cycles. I believe that as much as I believe claims for battery capacity and flashlight lumen output. Genuine Eneloops are just about the only cells I've ever found that actually have their claimed capacity. But I've never measured the number of cycles they're good for, and I doubt that anyone has actually measured the number of cycles claimed by those other amazing cells.

Those claims (including Eneloops) are based on partial cycles, not full cycles, and modest current demands. Partial charging and discharging is a lot easier on the cells. It's probably closer to what most people do in practice, though, so I suppose it's not that misleading.

AA Cycler has done some tests on Eneloops with full cycles and more demanding charging and discharging. Based on his tests, it seems like you get 300-400 "good" full cycles from Eneloops, before their internal resistance starts to skyrocket, and the capacity starts to slowly drop. After that, they're still usable, but for lower-drain applications. I have a few Eneloops in that condition.

Other brands, I imagine you get a lot less cycles than that.

 

[Cosmodragoon]

I invested in a bunch of Eneloop Pro batteries last year and I've been happy with their performance so far. More recently, I bought some of the regular white Eneloops to use in wall clocks, TV remotes, and the Sofirn C01. I don't know if this is correct or if it really matters but I saw some discussion that the white ones can hold up better in the long term for those devices.

With all the alkaline batteries I'm not buying now, I'll break even by next year. With the knowledge that I won't get stuck without batteries and won't have to remember to buy more at the store, I'm already ahead.

As others have said, Eneloops are very safe and won't ruin devices the way alkaleaks can.