Will I turn into a Maglite fan once again?
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I'm working on a year and a half of occasional use with eneloops and still have hi and lo.
There is definite flop on the 2nd gen ML25 after turning it about a half turn or more that I do not have on my first gen. When twisting the head off the 2nd gen it puts up a lot less resistance as well. Maglite used a thinner diameter o'ring for the gen 2.
There is definite flop on the 2nd gen ML25 after turning it about a half turn or more that I do not have on my first gen. When twisting the head off the 2nd gen it puts up a lot less resistance as well. Maglite used a thinner diameter o'ring for the gen 2.
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bykfixer, when you say flop are you referring to movement within the threads while the light is on? Does the head rattle a bit when you shake it while it's on and focused with a tight hot spot? I am trying to figure out if I want to go through the trouble of an exchange with maglite. If the replacement they send me will only be marginally better or potentially marginally worse, I don't want to hassle with it. I am asking about the 2nd Gen ML25LT.
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Just checked my three ML25's, an old 2C, 3C and a newer 2 mode 2C - seems like the O ring on the newer 2 mode 2C is slightly thicker than the older 2 and 3C's (opposite of Byk's). O ring thickness may play a roll, but none of my ML25's rattle or feel loose, though I do keep the threads and O rings lubed. All 3 of my ML25's go from off to fully focused in about a quarter turn of the head, so there is not a lot of travel on the threads, but even when I turn the heads out several full turns with the beams completely defocused, there is no looseness/play much less rattle.
OK after playing around with these, I think that the length of the cells being used may play a bigger roll than variation in the O rings. I noticed that I was able to get some play with the heads turned all the way out about 1 thread from the very end when the head is about to screw off completely. If you are using eneloop AA's in adapters they may be a little too long for your light. AA's are actually a little longer than C cells by about 0.5 mm per cell and NiMH's tend to run a little longer than alkalines. When I used to use AA eneloops, it was sometimes difficult to screw the tail cap on because the eneloop AA's were a bit longer than the usual alkaline C's (BTW twisting the head a couple turns in to the on position makes it easier to get the tail cap on and cinched down for good contact to the body of the light). I eliminated this problem with my 3D printed 18650 and 21700 adapters by designing them to be close to the minimum length for C cell alkalines so that the tail caps are easy to screw on.
OK after playing around with these, I think that the length of the cells being used may play a bigger roll than variation in the O rings. I noticed that I was able to get some play with the heads turned all the way out about 1 thread from the very end when the head is about to screw off completely. If you are using eneloop AA's in adapters they may be a little too long for your light. AA's are actually a little longer than C cells by about 0.5 mm per cell and NiMH's tend to run a little longer than alkalines. When I used to use AA eneloops, it was sometimes difficult to screw the tail cap on because the eneloop AA's were a bit longer than the usual alkaline C's (BTW twisting the head a couple turns in to the on position makes it easier to get the tail cap on and cinched down for good contact to the body of the light). I eliminated this problem with my 3D printed 18650 and 21700 adapters by designing them to be close to the minimum length for C cell alkalines so that the tail caps are easy to screw on.
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If I shake it, yes it rattles some, yes. The one in the photo. My other gen 2 are hit and miss for that. I have a few.
For kicks and giggles I tried wrapping telfon tape 2 wraps thick just now on the red one in the photo above and wobble is completely gone. Neeeeeeat!!
Everybody should have at least one roll of teflon tape (plumbers tape) in their home along with kite string and duct tape. So if you don't it's time to head to a hardware store and solve that issue……
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Two wraps the width of the tape. Operation feels like the gray one in the photo above. No lube.
The flashlight was a St Valentine gift to Mrs Fixer.
Yup, I'm a Maglite fan, yes.
So is my bird we call Maglite head or maggy for short.
Find the beam you like and try using the tailcap for on/off.
Once I figured out I could use the tailcap for on/off I stopped using the front end for that. I found that trying to find low using the front end was not as consistant for me as using the tailcap. Maybe others can chime in with their method of changing settings.
Once I figured out I could use the tailcap for on/off I stopped using the front end for that. I found that trying to find low using the front end was not as consistant for me as using the tailcap. Maybe others can chime in with their method of changing settings.
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The mode change works every time with alkaline C batteries and sporadically with the eneloops and c adapters. I had taken the eneloops straight out of the package and put them in the flashlight. I am charging them now to make sure that wasn't the issue.
Reading this thread, it seems that battery length is frequently the problem with the ml25lt. Eneloops are slightly longer than alkaline AA or C cells.
Thats why I use the tailcap xx. I take too long twisting it at the front end.
I usually turn it on with one hand - haven't figured out how to twist the tail cap and hold the light to do that.
kelmo
Flashlight Enthusiast
Two wraps the width of the tape. Operation feels like the gray one in the photo above. No lube.
The flashlight was a St Valentine gift to Mrs Fixer.
She's a keeper!
I tried to take the bezel off my new ML300L to lube the threads and I don't think it was designed to be removed. I hope I didn't damage the indent...
The plumbers tape sounds like a solution to the head wobble on my Hound Dog bezel! Brilliant solution, thanks for sharing.
kelmo
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(Don Adams Maxwell Smart voice) "The old turn the twisty head Maglite on at the front with one hand trick."
I can do it one handed but definitely not change settings one handed at the front end. However, holding the light head down and using my thumb and forefinger to loosen/tighten the tailcap I can just fine. Lubing the threads helps.
I can do it one handed but definitely not change settings one handed at the front end. However, holding the light head down and using my thumb and forefinger to loosen/tighten the tailcap I can just fine. Lubing the threads helps.
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(Don Adams Maxwell Smart voice) "The old turn the twisty head Maglite on at the front with one hand trick."
I can do it one handed but definitely not change settings one handed at the front end. However, holding the light head down and using my thumb and forefinger to loosen/tighten the tailcap I can just fine. Lubing the threads helps.
Cool! I figured that you had a way of doing it.
first thing I do when I get a new Mag is lube the threads, tail cap. head and bezel ring. I hate the dry squeaky threads as they come from the factory.
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It's actually pretty easy, first you take off the bezel ring, than the rest of the head can be gently pushed down away from the focus ring backwards towards the barrel of the light. The head will only drop down so far before it is stopped by a retaining ring. Normally there is no need to disassemble any further than that to lube the threads.
Cool!
The old slide the bell head down the barrel like the ML100 trick…
ML50 candle mode!! Heck yeah.
I use either Honda Shin Etsu silicone grease or vasoline for Maglites. The Shin Etsu was used on old rubber gaskets and moldings on my Honda cars and a little bit went a long ways. I did 3 cars and a van with it and still have about half of the 8oz tube. It can be found in generic form these days for about 60% the price of the Honda tube I bought years ago. Also great at keeping car doors from freezing shut in really cold climates.
The old slide the bell head down the barrel like the ML100 trick…
ML50 candle mode!! Heck yeah.
I use either Honda Shin Etsu silicone grease or vasoline for Maglites. The Shin Etsu was used on old rubber gaskets and moldings on my Honda cars and a little bit went a long ways. I did 3 cars and a van with it and still have about half of the 8oz tube. It can be found in generic form these days for about 60% the price of the Honda tube I bought years ago. Also great at keeping car doors from freezing shut in really cold climates.
I usually use petroleum jelly as that is what Mag recommended for years. I think they also recommend super lube now. I have used silicone a few times, but I never use random lubricants because I don't know if they will damage the O rings.
