ran it for about 25 minutes when I got home sitting inside the cab of my truck. Could not feel any temp difference at all and I don't have access to the temp gun any more. Sorry can't be more helpful.Any chance you might run it for 20 minutes or so and get a lens temp reading, compared to ambient?
Thank you. It was a lot of work, especially trying to get the wires into the cabin. Unfortunately I'm not done, have some trouble shooting to do. Works perfectly when acc power is on, shuts off almost instantly as soon as you start the engine.That is just about a textbook example of a correct rear fog installation. Nic work!
Does the relay flip upside down when the engine is running?Probably a stupid question but is it a problem to have the relay upside down?
This is a momentary switch with a latching relay. It is working as designed until I start the truck. Power to the relay is one of the front fog lights. This way the rear can never be on if the front isn't. So when I go from vehicle powered but engine not on all is well. When I go to start the engine the rear fog light goes out as designed because the front fogs turn off while starting. Pushing the rear fog light button again doss not turn the light on and if you hold the button the relay buzzes. Shut the engine off and turn the truck back on with engine off, hit button and rear fog back on.Does the relay flip upside down when the engine is running?
Seriously, though-- does it come back on when you press the switch again? It's probably something to do with the the way many things on the ACC circuit shut off temporarily when you crank the engine.
You might think this is a good idea, but there are so many conditions where the rear fog lamp is warranted but the front ones are not. The biggest example is extreme rain or fog in the daytime. In the daytime, you're not really going to see much better with them yourself but the direct and *specular* glare from them will affect oncoming drivers. Even at night, the rear fog lamp is useful at a higher speed than front fog lamps, since you only need the front ones if the lower atmospheric disturbance is so severe you have trouble seeing the road markings.This is a momentary switch with a latching relay. It is working as designed until I start the truck. Power to the relay is one of the front fog lights.
There's an "or" in there:
I am try to wire them up like they would come from the factory. Rear fogs according to the ECE regulations cannot be switched on without the front fog lights being on.
(I don't recommend them being allowed to be on when the high (main) beams are on, though).Addendum 47 R48
6.11.7. Electrical connections
These shall be such that:
6.11.7.1. The rear fog-lamp(s) cannot be switched on unless the main beams, dipped-
beams or front fog-lamps are lit;
thank you for that, the OR does indeed make a difference. I already have a headlight harness splitter that has unused taps for the parking lights. May try that later.There's an "or" in there:
(I don't recommend them being allowed to be on when the high (main) beams are on, though).
The reason for the "or" is that in the ECE, rear fog lamps are required equipment but front fog lamps are only *regulated*, so that means there may be plenty of cars with a rear fog lamp but no front ones.
Front fog lamps generally have various interlocks on them, such as the one that shuts them off temporarily when you go to high beams (and then they usually restore themselves when you return to low beam). It's possible such an interlock is contributing to your unusual issue.
Always appreciate your help. If this was the case wouldn't it also be causing a problem when the whole vehicle is powered up without the engine running?Buzzing relay sounds like a PWM (pulse width modulated) feed to the front fog lamps, which could mess with your rear fog switch/relay setup (no, relays don't care which way is up). You should be able to work around this by putting a capacitor across the coil pins (85 and 86) of the rear fog relay, and a diode in the wire connected to the rear fog relay's 86 pin, all as per this sketch.
Not necessarily, no. Ask your friendly local late-model Jeep owner!If this was the case wouldn't it also be causing a problem when the whole vehicle is powered up without the engine running?
thank you for that, the OR does indeed make a difference. I already have a headlight harness splitter that has unused taps for the parking lights. May try that later.
PWM may only occur when the alternator is delivering power (or when the key is on). I feel a little dumb by not suggesting that it could be a PWM issue myself. It was in my brain but didn't make it to my fingers so -Virgil- beat me to that punch.(regarding PWM) Always appreciate your help. If this was the case wouldn't it also be causing a problem when the whole vehicle is powered up without the engine running?
If you follow the suggestion -Virgil- made, yes.Now the real question is will the parking light circuit going to be any better since all the lights on the truck are BCM controlled LEDs?
Crap, what? I told you how to make your rear fog relay get along with your PWM light circuits...