Zebralight SC52 & SC52w

[Ares]

Got my SC52w L2 in. It's definitely not even a little green. But I'm kind of torn, now. I tend to prefer warmer tints with a floody beam profile (unless it's the SC62d, which I make an exception for). This L2 is much like the first SC600w MkII L2 I got in - entirely too purple. It washes out light green and turns it grey. I have some light green curtains that look completely grey when I shine this light on it. It's almost the exact opposite of what the original did - turn everything green.

It's funny, if I shine the original SC52w onto the new grey L2 body, it looks like green anodizing. If I shine the L2 onto the light-green anodizing of the original SC52w - it looks grey! They almost switch places haha.

On top of that, the head is just a little longer, making the hot spot just a wee bit more focused. You'd think that would mean it throws further... but to my eyes, the original SC52w is the winner outdoors. That, and the grass and trees actually have some color to them. I feel like I'm losing depth perception with the L2. Sigh.

This is entirely personal preference, of course - and I'm notoriously picky. If you don't mind a little rose/purple tint, it's a great light. The strobe mode is nice and disorienting, if you like that sort of thing (I do). If you can't stand the green, I'd recommend this torch. Personally, I think I've actually grown partial to the green. Warmer lights just "feel" better to me. Cooler (or rose/purple) lights don't.

Unlike my SC62d, it works perfectly in all modes, too. It's a good light. I may be reselling it on eBay, though haha.

 

[markr6]

Thanks for the info Ares. I can't imagine a SC52w with a cool or purplish after all the greenies I've seen. Man, the lottery just got even more impossible to win :shakehead I may give another one a try one of these days though.

But with my SC62d and SC600w II L2, I really don't even use my SC52w anymore.

 

[kreisl]

Got my SC52w L2 in. It's definitely not even a little green. But I'm kind of torn, now. I tend to prefer warmer tints with a floody beam profile (unless it's the SC62d, which I make an exception for). This L2 is much like the first SC600w MkII L2 I got in - entirely too purple.

+ 1

i got my SC52w L2 in too, good light. tailcap anodization color does not match the body but it looks acceptable. No more sharp edges at the bezel or at the lower body area around the money clip, that is before the tailcap. the glass lens does not seem AR-coated yet the beam is rosy in the middle and purplish at the spill, with practically no hints of green. on the lower modes all i see is the rosy hotspot because the purplish spill is too dim. the tint is really likable, does not look yellowish, orangish or yellow-greenish. rosy + purple, that's how i would characterize the beam. can't tell how close it is to a Nichia but if i had to venture a guess by looking at all the Nichia reports and beamshots, it has to be damn close.

my unit is factory-fresh from the latest sc52wl2 production batch as stated by the nkon retailer in the Dutchland and i got no complaints with the ZL product nor seller, happy camper here cheers!

have a great weekend all!!

 

[HikingMano]

+ 1

[...]my unit is factory-fresh from the latest sc52wl2 production batch as stated by the nkon retailer in the Dutchland and i got no complaints with the ZL product nor seller, happy camper here cheers!

All these reports of folks winning the lottery is making me bitter I lost it :scowl:. Debating trying again...

 

[rexet]

I have a weird behaviour with my brand new SC52w L2 regarding the battery left indicator system. After few hours when I click "four times" on the switch, the light flashes 1 or 2 times max even if the battery (Eneloop) inside is fully charged. If I unscrew the tailcap and screw it back then the light flashes 4 times as it should.
Do you experience that too or do I own a faulty unit?

 

[EZO]

I have a weird behaviour with my brand new SC52w L2 regarding the battery left indicator system. After few hours when I click "four times" on the switch, the light flashes 1 or 2 times max even if the battery (Eneloop) inside is fully charged. If I unscrew the tailcap and screw it back then the light flashes 4 times as it should.
Do you experience that too or do I own a faulty unit?

It's not clear what you mean by "after few hours" as to usage but try cleaning the contacts in the flashlight. Clean the contacts on the battery too while you're at it. Maybe there is some sort of residue, contaminant or oxidant on the flashlight's contacts left over from the manufacturing process.

 

[moozooh]

Grease on the edges of battery tube where it makes contact with the tailcap is a very common cause for something like that.

 

[Fireclaw18]

Good idea to get DeOxit Gold and brush it over the edge of the battery tube.

 

[rexet]

Thank you for your help. I just ordered some Nyogel 760G yesterday, I will do it as soon as I receive it.

 

[Lithium466]

Keep the Nyogel on the anodized threads only!
(and on o'rings of course)

 

[hatman]

Keep the Nyogel on the anodized threads only!
(and on o'rings of course)

Eh.....please explain: Is Nyogel harmful?

 

[Lithium466]

No, not at all (not that I am aware of), but it may prevent a good contact if threads are not anodized and current passes through them. Anodized threads do not conduct current, so no problem.
Use conductive grease on threads, if the lights rely on them to make contact, that's better

Edit: my first answer was specially dedicated to Rexet, after seing his posts on other forum, should have been less specific, sorry.

 

[Etsu]

Nyogel is electrically conductive. That's why you use it on flashlight threads. There's no problem with it on bare threads. Deoxit Gold is also electrically conductive, so good to use.

 

[NutSAK]

Nyogel is electrically conductive. That's why you use it on flashlight threads. There's no problem with it on bare threads. Deoxit Gold is also electrically conductive, so good to use.

Some Nyogel products are designed to be electrically conductive, but the Nyogel products sold by flashlight vendors typically are not. They protect electrical pathways, but are not conductive.

Nye list these products as electrically conductive: 753G, 756G, and 758G

Here is a quote from Lighthound:

Note that NyoGel® 760G is not conductive, but it was designed for lubricating surfaces that are conductive.

Also, from Caig:

DeoxIT® and DeoxIT® Gold are designed to improve the flow of electricity between metal surfaces. These products are initially non-conductive liquids, when subjected to an electrical field,DeoxIT® and DeoxIT® Gold promote current flow. No short circuits will occur. In both states, DeoxIT, DeoxIT® Gold and DeoxIT® Shield have resistances high enough to prevent short circuits.

Conductive materials have very low resistances and will cause short circuits. So, Deoxit Gold also is not truly conductive--it is basically a dielectric. Dielectrics transmit electric force without conduction. They are electrical insulators that undergo dielectric polarization when exposed to electrical current.

 

[Lithium466]

I thought the 760G was not conductive, and I think I already had contact issues with it, but I'm not 100% sure. Will test tomorrow with multimeter.

edit: burned

 

[sticktodrum]

I can only speak for myself, but grease always ends up on the non anodized portion of the butt end where it males contact with the tailcap. I clean it sparingly, but even before that it doesn't seem that the grease hinders and functionality with any of my ZLs or other lights.

 

[Etsu]

So, Deoxit Gold also is not truly conductive--it is basically a dielectric. Dielectrics transmit electric force without conduction. They are electrical insulators that undergo dielectric polarization when exposed to electrical current.

Hmmm, okay, I'll have to take your word for it, because I don't see the difference in practical use. I've found Deoxit Gold to work great on non-anodized threads and other electrically conductive areas. It's what 4sevens sells and recommends for its flashlights.

 

[NutSAK]

Hmmm, okay, I'll have to take your word for it, because I don't see the difference in practical use.

The difference in practical use is that a conductive lubricant not only protects electrical contacts the way Deoxit and Nyogel do, but also conducts electricity. I would not recommend a conductive lubricant on flashlight threads, because it could cause problems (shorts) if used excessively.

 

[rickyro]

I have a weird behaviour with my brand new SC52w L2 regarding the battery left indicator system. After few hours when I click "four times" on the switch, the light flashes 1 or 2 times max even if the battery (Eneloop) inside is fully charged. If I unscrew the tailcap and screw it back then the light flashes 4 times as it should.
Do you experience that too or do I own a faulty unit?

This happened to me too. But the batteries with this weirdness are some very old other brand ones with more than 6 years of life, not the eneloops I bought within recent years.

And those batteries will run out fast even when put back with more flashes.

 

[UnderPar]

I just pulled another trigger today. Ordered the SC52w L2 very recently. On wait mode now.