Zebralight SC600-III (XHP35, 1x18650) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!

[sidecross]

Likely to support newer 4.35V Lithium Ion cells as well as to future proof for even higher voltage cells. It could also be useful in an emergency situation as the light could be rigged to run on 2 x CR123a.

Do a comparrison of Samsung INR18650-35E 3500mAh and LG 18650 E1 3200mAh 4.35 volts.
http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common18650comparator.php

Higher volts does not mean higher amp output.

Also the ability to run to CR123a primary batteries would take a way the advantage of small length size. ZebraLight could make two versions of this light; one as is and another longer for those who want to run protected and Cr123a batteries.

 

[selfbuilt]

Can you compare the switches on the three models?
If feel that the SC600 III has a better feel to the switch than previous models. A little easier to press without being right on center. A little bit more travel. And, a little bit more feedback in the click.

Yes, my SC600-III sample is not as "stiff" as the earlier SC600-II or SC62. Again, this is only one sample (and I don't know if it is representational). In my experience, the earlier ZL switches have had a firmer click (for the last several years at least). My SC600-III feels instead like a more "typical" electronic switch.

Then why would they change the voltage range to 2.7-6.0V? The SC600MKII and SC62 are only 2.7-4.2V and it's understandable that they don't support CR123s. :shrug:

Likely to support newer 4.35V Lithium Ion cells as well as to future proof for even higher voltage cells. It could also be useful in an emergency situation as the light could be rigged to run on 2 x CR123a.

2xCR123A seems too long for the light - I expect you would dent the cells if you tried.

I suspect your cooling is insufficient to allow a difference between the H1 and M1 modes on your PID tests. It took a fan blowing on the H600Fd MKIII in -8C temps to stop the PID from kicking in even on this much lower output model. At room temps, even with the fan, the PID still reduced output.

Yes - it's hard to see, but there is a definite step-down in output, even with fan cooling (at room temp). I don't know how cold you would have to go prevent the PID from kicking in (or reduce it further).

 

[gottawearshades]

My question as well!

Then why would they change the voltage range to 2.7-6.0V? The SC600MKII and SC62 are only 2.7-4.2V and it's understandable that they don't support CR123s. :shrug:

 

[Tachead]

Do a comparrison of Samsung INR18650-35E 3500mAh and LG 18650 E1 3200mAh 4.35 volts.
http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common18650comparator.php

Higher volts does not mean higher amp output.

Also the ability to run to CR123a primary batteries would take a way the advantage of small length size. ZebraLight could make two versions of this light; one as is and another longer for those who want to run protected and Cr123a batteries.

I did not say it did. I was simply speculating why ZL upped the input voltage range.

As for the advantage of small length, we are talking about less then 4mm here. I personally dont see that as a huge advantage.

 

[Tachead]

Yes, my SC600-III sample is not as "stiff" as the earlier SC600-II or SC62. Again, this is only one sample (and I don't know if it is representational). In my experience, the earlier ZL switches have had a firmer click (for the last several years at least). My SC600-III feels instead like a more "typical" electronic switch.



2xCR123A seems too long for the light - I expect you would dent the cells if you tried.


Yes - it's hard to see, but there is a definite step-down in output, even with fan cooling (at room temp). I don't know how cold you would have to go prevent the PID from kicking in (or reduce it further).

That's why I said "rigged in an emergency". 2xCR123a are definitely too long for this cell compartment size. A couple of rings of copper wire could easily jump the connection in an emergency however as the driver voltage range will support it.

 

[ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond]

That's why I said "rigged in an emergency". 2xCR123a are definitely too long for this cell compartment size. A couple of rings of copper wire could easily jump the connection in an emergency however as the driver voltage range will support it.

I would suspect this could be dangerous though if you ran it on H1. As the voltage from the batteries drops the light will ramp up the current, possibly to very unsafe levels for two primary CR123 cells.

 

[flashlightsarecool]

Great review as always. A dealer website says there is an audible inductor whine on level H2A. What say you? Thanks.

 

[sidecross]

I did not say it did. I was simply speculating why ZL upped the input voltage range.

As for the advantage of small length, we are talking about less then 4mm here. I personally dont see that as a huge advantage.

I now carry the Mk 3 in a side pocket and a 4mm difference in length is much easier to carry than my older Mk 2; I notice the difference.

 

[PieDemon]

Yes - it's hard to see, but there is a definite step-down in output, even with fan cooling (at room temp). I don't know how cold you would have to go prevent the PID from kicking in (or reduce it further).

I suppose you could submerge it in cold water along with some added icecubes to keep it near 0 degrees celcius along with some occasional stirring of the water. The torch being IPX7 rated should hold up to it for at least the 30 documented minutes and probably much longer. I don't know if this would mess with your measurement system though, but it would cool it better than ambient air + fan.

 

[sidecross]

I suppose you could submerge it in cold water along with some added icecubes to keep it near 0 degrees celcius along with some occasional stirring of the water. The torch being IPX7 rated should hold up to it for at least the 30 documented minutes and probably much longer. I don't know if this would mess with your measurement system though, but it would cool it better than ambient air + fan.

Or you could have NASA send a Mk 3 to outer space where the temperature is minus 455 degrees Fahrenheit, but it still would not help in using the flashlight on the highest output in daily use.

 

[Tachead]

I would suspect this could be dangerous though if you ran it on H1. As the voltage from the batteries drops the light will ramp up the current, possibly to very unsafe levels for two primary CR123 cells.

Of course but, in an emergency over stressing some CR123a's is going to be the least of your worries. Also, realistically H1 is rarely needed anyway. Remember too that the PID kicks in very fast greatly reducing current on H1 as well.

 

[Jose Marin]

Great review as always. A dealer website says there is an audible inductor whine on level H2A. What say you? Thanks.

+1

 

[Tachead]

I now carry the Mk 3 in a side pocket and a 4mm difference in length is much easier to carry than my older Mk 2; I notice the difference.

The body of the MKIII is actually 5.6mm shorter but, only 3-4mm of that is due to the cell compartment being shortened. Your probably noticing the other dimensional changes as well. The head of the MKIII is much more streamlined. Its also 12 grams lighter(which is likely only partly due to the cell compartment change).

Either way, I for one would have gladly accepted 3-4mm in extra length for added cell compatibility, a duel spring or piston design, and the ability to use CR123a's on the lower output levels. The SC63 is a better pocket light anyway.

 

[ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond]

I was curious how the HI version would compare so I did a reading on my Dr. Meter LX1330B Light Meter @2 meters after 30 seconds runtime on H1.

Converted to 1 meter I get 17.2K Lux. Compared with the 13.3K Selfbuilt got on the regular version I would say it appears there is some benefit to the HI version of the light for throw.

I have no way to measure lumens.

 

[Tachead]

Or you could have NASA send a Mk 3 to outer space where the temperature is minus 455 degrees Fahrenheit, but it still would not help in using the flashlight on the highest output in daily use.

That would depend on your use. I sometimes use my lights in -40 to -50C with windchill. I have to keep them in my pocket to keep the batteries warm until the light is on to keep them warm. I think he meant to see the true difference.

 

[sidecross]

That would depend on your use. I sometimes use my lights in -40 to -50C with windchill. I have to keep them in my pocket to keep the batteries warm until the light is on to keep them warm. I think he meant to see the true difference.

You need to develop a better sense of humor. :thumbsup:

 

[texas cop]

Thank you for your once again excellent review. I have both the SC600 MkII and MkIII. Here are some of my observations:
Tint is nicer on the CW MkIII than the CW MkII.
The only two batteries I considered for these lights now are, Samsung INR18650-35E and the Panasonic/Sanyo NCR18650 GA. Great capacities, perfect fit, current up to the needed outputs and made by companies that don't scare me. It's a $95.00 light don't get cheap on the batteries.
I like the MkIII size but prefer the extra 1/2 ounce weight on the MkII. I really helps with heat absorption.
UI is as easy or as complex as you want it.
Lastly some thermal foam between the board and the reflector sandwiched in there semi-tight to bleed out more heat and possible dampen out some of the high pitched whine I get in a few hi modes.

This is a $95.00 light I've seen far worse on much more expensive. I do believe that this light is one of a few so far and more already announced employing voltage boost to get better results, performance or output on the next generation of Cree's LED's MT-G2, XHP35,50,70. For the best in single cell single LED setups voltage had to go up and current down to find those high lumen to wattage ratios. I believe a lot of focus is now going to be invested in quiet and efficient boost drivers.

 

[markr6]

That would depend on your use. I sometimes use my lights in -40 to -50C with windchill. I have to keep them in my pocket to keep the batteries warm until the light is on to keep them warm. I think he meant to see the true difference.

I don't want to get off topic, but speaking of temps - I was backpacking last weekend and at about 7°F my H600w II would not run on H1 (I'm not sure if I tried H2). It stepped down to medium whenever I tried it. Just too cold for the battery I guess (NCR18650GA). So cold can obviously be good or bad for performance.

 

[TCY]

Another great review from selfbuilt, Thanks for the effort!

It's good to see that the new MK3 out throws the NC p12. For some reason I was always skeptical about ZL lights' beam range.

 

[Uxorious]

I got a very close number with yours(~17000cd):
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...or-this-year&p=4854974&viewfull=1#post4854974

So maybe this number is close enough to the correct reading?


Thanks so much selfbuilt, you always give us the best review!!
Hope you can get the HI version and tell us the truth soon!!

I was curious how the HI version would compare so I did a reading on my Dr. Meter LX1330B Light Meter @2 meters after 30 seconds runtime on H1.

Converted to 1 meter I get 17.2K Lux. Compared with the 13.3K Selfbuilt got on the regular version I would say it appears there is some benefit to the HI version of the light for throw.

I have no way to measure lumens.