Any tips for applying glowpowder?

AlexGT · Dec 15, 2004

Hi guys!

I just got a 1/2 ounce of Glowinc's ultra green weatherproof glow paint, It is scary bright (looks like something radioactive)/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif

Anyway, I want to coat the base of a Lux3 emmiter that is installed in a PR-T with a BB, but I'm not sure how to proceed, will the paint short out the board? is it ok If I coat the 2 gold wires, are the fumes harmful to the plastic or the dome? etc.

Basically is what to do? Any tips or tricks?

Thanks!

AlexGT

greenLED · Dec 15, 2004

darkzero is the master, search his old posts

cue003 · Dec 15, 2004

I would be interested in this info as well.

Thanks.

Curtis

cmassicotte · Dec 15, 2004

AlexGT -

I am looking for some glowpowder. Where did you get it? And you mention "Glowpaint". Am I correct to assume that you mean you got it as a paint, and not a powder you mixed with some paint?

I think I actually looking for the powder, (I want to mix it with epoxy)but it would be nice to know where to get both.

Also - for those who have mixed glowpowder with expoxy, what kind works best?

Thanks,

Chuck

WildRice · Dec 15, 2004

I prefer epoxy, I use 5min, and mix about 30% powder into the mix. Trick for 5min... mix the powder into the two halves first before mixing together. What color are you looking for? Might have a small amount of green or aqua availiable. PM me.
Jeff

IMHO, the larger grain of the powder, the longer it glows brighter. I have seen powder like cornstarch, and 'gel candle' powder like fine sand. The cornstarch stuff charges faster, but also fades quicker.

darkzero · Dec 15, 2004

[ QUOTE ]
greenLED said:
darkzero is the master, search his old posts

[/ QUOTE ]

Thank you, I'm touched to see that you guys still remember me even though I have been absent from CPF for some time now (damn minimoto racing).

Here, I'll save the trouble of searching but /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/sssh.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif.
There's pretty much three ways of applying glow powder. One method is too mix the glow powder with laquer based clear nail polish and paint it on. Somone posted the "formula" on the amounts to mix, if you want it let me know. I used to only mix up a small batch cause the mix tends to get thich if left sitting around but thinning the mix when needed will take care of that. Another method is to paint the surface with clear paint, while still wet sprinkle some powder onto it, let dry and repeat, then finish it off with another coat of clear. Then there is the epoxy method which I find to give the best results and is the only method I currently use.

I use devcon 2-ton crystal clear slow cure epoxy. Any crystal clear epoxy will work though. I used to use the 5min stuff but I get better results with the slow cure epoxy (nothing to do with how bright it glows) and is what I prefer.

I mix as much powder as I can into the amount of epoxy I'm using. Then apply it to the area and let sit on a flat surface. The slow cure epoxy gives better results since it allows the surface to even out and cure very uniform even if applied thicker in some areas. The key is to lay it on a flat (level) surface when curing. Lightly sanding will promote better surface adhesion on very smooth surfaces but I never had a problem with the glow powder/epoxy mix lifting off since it will most likely be inside the head and will not get touched. Painting the surface white before applying the glow powder/epoxy will give better results if you are only applying a thin layer. If applying to a Hotlips heatsink, it's best to fill in the lead wire holes with epoxy first and let cure before applying the glow powder/epoxy.

Royal Deluxe Mag Mod

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink2.gif

greenLED · Dec 15, 2004

[ QUOTE ]
darkzero said:
If applying to a Hotlips heatsink, it's best to fill in the lead wire holes with epoxy first and let cure before applying the glow powder/epoxy.
[/url]

[/ QUOTE ]

Darkzero, if I didn't do this, then the slow-curing epoxy would "drip" through the holes and the surface won't be as smooth? Am I understanding this correctly?

Some day, when I grow up to be a modder, I'll make something like that... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif

Kryosphinx · Dec 15, 2004

I think you're on the right track, but i think he's not so worried about the uneven surface as the epoxy itself getting stuck on the stuff below the heatsink. (ie: the switch in a mag mod. Epoxy in there is nasty!)

vezk · Dec 15, 2004

AlexGT - I highly doubt that the paint is electrically conductive, so it should be ok to paint over the wires. And unless the paint is cyanoacrylate-based (very unlikely), you shouldn't have to worry about the fumes hurting the dome. You can always paint a small bit on a clear piece of plastic and see if the area surrounding the paint gets cloudy.

darkzero - That looks great, really. So, do you think the Weather-Proof Ultra Green Glow in the Dark Paint that AlexGT found would be as effective as the epoxy method you describe? Seems like the paint may be just a bit easier to apply, but maybe it's not as durable as the epoxy?

AlexGT · Dec 15, 2004

cmassicotte: I got the paint from www.glowinc.com they have also powder, the paint is the ultra green that sells for 10.98 a 1/2 ounce.

Thank you very much DarkZero for your answer, I still have a question, the Pr-T does not have too much space around the base of the led to put the paint in there, What I am thinking is applying the paint to this part.

Hope you don't mind using your pic to show you where I want to apply the paint

http://img144.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img144&image=lux35tx.jpg

Do you think it would affect or damage something if I paint this part?

Thanks!
AlexGT

this_is_nascar · Dec 15, 2004

I can absolutely guarentee that darkzero is THE man when it comes to applying this stuff. I have several customs he's done for me and all of the applications have been flawless and very well functioning.

Skylighter · Jan 31, 2005

Alex,

Thanks for the kind words about our products. I will let others answer the flashlight specific questions. Our paint will melt some plastics, so be careful.

On an unrelated note. If you are painting an internal part of a flashlight, use the solvent-based paint, not the weatherproof.

Mr. Blue · Jan 31, 2005

Danny,
I have read your very informative site...it seems full of no B.S. info.

you mention that solvent based paint should be used for the internals of a light...what would work best on the externals?

Skylighter · Jan 31, 2005

Mr. Blue,

I personally like to use the solvent-based paint, with a light clear coat of either A) Clear Nail Polish or B) Krylon Crystal Clear. If you dont want a two coat situation, you can use the weather-proof paint. But it is not one of my favorites as it needs to be stirred heavily before every use.

Thanks for the compliment on the site. Every day, we see a rip-off artist selling the low end products. Every one of them says "The best quality" or "The Brightest Pigments". But it is almost always a lie. So, I figure the only way to combat it is through information.

Here is a funny story for you guys. We sent all of our pigments to a lab to be light tested by a third party to create the time charts and brightnesses you see on our site. Within days of publishing the information, over 6 sites just happened to get the EXACT same results. The funny thing is that these light machines are simply not that accurate. You can test the same powder 10 times and get 10 slightly different results. Now I get regularly get the question: "Your brightnesses match XYZ's, are they the same product?" It sends me into a tizzy every time.

nexro · Jan 31, 2005

[ QUOTE ]
AlexGT said:
Thank you very much DarkZero for your answer, I still have a question, the Pr-T does not have too much space around the base of the led to put the paint in there, What I am thinking is applying the paint to this part.

Hope you don't mind using your pic to show you where I want to apply the paint

http://img144.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img144&image=lux35tx.jpg

Do you think it would affect or damage something if I paint this part?

Thanks!
AlexGT

[/ QUOTE ]

Alex, that was exactly what I did to my LH and a sandwich. I mixed the glow powder I got from glowinc with Devcon 2 ton epoxy and then slowly applied it on the black plastic right beside the luxeon dome. It gave pretty good results. So far, I haven't encountered any side effects. Maybe some loss in brightness? I really couldn't tell the difference.

greenlight · Feb 1, 2005

The die size of the luxeon is much smaller than the emitter. You can see it if you hold it up to a compact disk. The Nx05 optic magnifies the die only- it's very precise. You can apply glow paint to the emitter as long as you don't cover the die area without affecting the output. Heat maybe an issue.

nexro · Feb 1, 2005

emm, isn't heat supposed to conduct from the bottom to the heatsink or Star?

Edit:
Here are the pictures of what I did to my Nuwai 5W light.

The blue curves at the corner is just the reflection of the blue glow.

greenLED · Sep 11, 2005

courtesy :bump: so the search function catches this

proFeign · Oct 23, 2005

darkzero said:
[ QUOTE ]
greenLED said:
darkzero is the master, search his old posts

[/ QUOTE ]

Thank you, I'm touched to see that you guys still remember me even though I have been absent from CPF for some time now (damn minimoto racing).

Here, I'll save the trouble of searching but /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/sssh.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif.
There's pretty much three ways of applying glow powder. One method is too mix the glow powder with laquer based clear nail polish and paint it on. Somone posted the "formula" on the amounts to mix, if you want it let me know. I used to only mix up a small batch cause the mix tends to get thich if left sitting around but thinning the mix when needed will take care of that. Another method is to paint the surface with clear paint, while still wet sprinkle some powder onto it, let dry and repeat, then finish it off with another coat of clear. Then there is the epoxy method which I find to give the best results and is the only method I currently use.

I use devcon 2-ton crystal clear slow cure epoxy. Any crystal clear epoxy will work though. I used to use the 5min stuff but I get better results with the slow cure epoxy (nothing to do with how bright it glows) and is what I prefer.

I mix as much powder as I can into the amount of epoxy I'm using. Then apply it to the area and let sit on a flat surface. The slow cure epoxy gives better results since it allows the surface to even out and cure very uniform even if applied thicker in some areas. The key is to lay it on a flat (level) surface when curing. Lightly sanding will promote better surface adhesion on very smooth surfaces but I never had a problem with the glow powder/epoxy mix lifting off since it will most likely be inside the head and will not get touched. Painting the surface white before applying the glow powder/epoxy will give better results if you are only applying a thin layer. If applying to a Hotlips heatsink, it's best to fill in the lead wire holes with epoxy first and let cure before applying the glow powder/epoxy.

Royal Deluxe Mag Mod
Mag3D Mod

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink2.gif

Where can I get DevCon epoxies? Online perhaps? The only thing DevCon has listed at their site are distributors. Also Home Depot in my area has always had a pitiful selection of epoxies by "Super Glue" and I have been disappointed in every one of them I've used. Their 5-min stuff leaves an oily sheen and smells forever after dry no matter what combinations of the two compounds I use. Crap.

For filling in a hole in a G-10 handle on a pocketknife handle how would you recommend I prevent epoxy from getting into the texture of the G10 around the hole I'm trying to apply it to? Do syringes work for this? Syringes with big holes I mean...

Thanks for all the info, the ultra green powder is awesome when used as you specify.

greenLED · Oct 23, 2005

I got some DevCon at Walmart, but Any clear epoxy will do.
BTW, the 5-min stuff cures too fast to get a good finish.

Any tips for applying glowpowder?

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