The Official Zebralight Thread

[Msf]

yes
G7 is extra.. I use it to experiment, for example by setting all 6 of the lowest mode to that memory partition..

agree in default G5 that there is preflash of H1 when going to M1 with double clic

that is one of the reasons I reassign 2 Clic: Not to Medium but to High Instead,
and I reassign Single Clic, Not to High, but to a Low output instead.

I would prefer there was a way to avoid the pre flash without having to reprogram the light or step through L-M-H.
Since there doesn’t seem to be, if I am I a location where the pre flash is going to be an issue, I often hold the light against my leg while executing the double click. I can hide the pre flash this way, but I am only masking the issue rather than fixing it.

 

[jon_slider]

Tailcap update, received tailcap for SC63. It indeed has a longer spring, with proper bend at the end so it wont gouge the battery the way the SC64/65 tailcap spring does. Im happy with the SC63 tailcap. The Anodising color is ony very slightly different and not objectionable to me, and it fits properly:

 

[dc38]

In my post #6,241 I am asking if I can swap the High with Medium with all factory output settings.

I don't like to double click for low settings and turn high settings for milliseconds.

There is no option in Zebralight UI to turn (double click from OFF) Medium setting without turning ON/pass the first High (for a very short time) setting.

On the button presses, the moment you depress the button, 1H (hold) mode activates. If you release the button in time for it to register as 1C (single click), then it'll jump from 1H to 1C mode. If you 2C (double click), it'll go from 1H, then 1C with the first click, then the 2nd click will activate, so it will always pass through the 1H AND the 1C if you're trying to 2C.

Hence why I set my 1H modes to Lower lumens, 1C to 7 and 20ish lumens, and 2C to max and 74 lumens.

This methodology WILL change the hold to ramp order into the equivalent of LHM, or in terms of button press, 1H, 2C, 1C.

 

[Beard Man]

If you release the button in time for it to register as 1C (single click), then it'll jump from 1H to 1C mode. If you 2C (double click), it'll go from 1H, then 1C with the first click, then the 2nd click will activate, so it will always pass through the 1H AND the 1C if you're trying to 2C.

Honestly, your explanation is even more complicated than the Zebralight manual. :)

The only way to avoid the High pre flash (double click from OFF) is to set H1 to a very low L4 (0.03Lm) setting.

 

[jon_slider]

Zebras have a bunch of preflashes and potential unintended ouputs. Let me count the ways:

2C preflashes whatever output is set to 1C
1C preflashes whatever output is set to Hold.

Holding not Long enough gives unintentional 1C output instead
Holding too Long gives unintentional 2C output instead

doing 2C too soon after turning on, gives unintentional Strobe

When Im not in the mood to cater to my Zebra's personality, I reach for one of my Anduril lights, and when I want the most intuitive UI possible, I use one of my Rotaries.

 

[dc38]

Honestly, your explanation is even more complicated than the Zebralight manual. :)

The only way to avoid the High pre flash (double click from OFF) is to set H1 to a very low L4 (0.03Lm) setting.

I'll upload a vid when i get home, if a picture is worth a thousand words....

 

[Dark_Hater]

It’s hard for me to understand how programming a Zebralight is so complicated.
If you ignore the confusing H1, M2 nonsense it couldn’t be more simple.
A ZL comes with 12 output choices. You have 6 of those in G6 or G7 that you can pick from, in any order or position you want them in.

The thing about it is once it clicks and you do understand that the H1, L1, M2 naming finally will make sense. Hopefully.

Also some people have differing ways of learning things. But I do wish ZL would have chosen a better approach.

 

[jon_slider]

Another recent observation about Zebras.. The SC64 does not Flicker visibly on the lowest mode:

the way the SC65 does

The difference also shows up in the Flicker Index test, here are the two lowest modes of the SC64 and SC65:

The SC65 is using Slow PWM (less than 1000Hz):
If I had an SC65, I would program it not to use the two lowest modes.

 

[flipyflop2]

First post in the forum, I've been into flashlights for a few years, but into Zebralights only recently.

I got the SC600w a month ago and now suddenly I already have 3 Zebras... oops!

Now I just need a good AA Zebra, but I think the current SC54c maybe falls a bit short? I see it has 210 lumens but how many candela/throw does it have? Because 210 is not a lot, older AA Zebra managed to have way more than that.

 

[Monocrom]

Yeah, those Zebralights tend to reproduce like bunnies.

 

[dc38]

First post in the forum, I've been into flashlights for a few years, but into Zebralights only recently.

I got the SC600w a month ago and now suddenly I already have 3 Zebras... oops!

Now I just need a good AA Zebra, but I think the current SC54c maybe falls a bit short? I see it has 210 lumens but how many candela/throw does it have? Because 210 is not a lot, older AA Zebra managed to have way more than that.

For everyday use, anything with a peak between 150-350 lumens and 2.5kcd-4kcd should be adequate. It's the one gripe I have about my d3aa, it's super floody...Zebras are way more balanced in beam utilization.

 

[dc38]

Yeah, those Zebralights tend to reproduce like bunnies.

Asexual, spontaneously materializing bunnies...

**like...tribbles? Quibbles? Those fuzzballs from Trek.

 

[jon_slider]

Thanks for the great photos. Very useful size comparison reference.

Now I just need a good AA Zebra, but I think the current SC54c maybe falls a bit short?

I dont think it falls short at all. For an AA light, it does everything it is supposed to. It throws fine..

And the new 519a LED has much better color rendering, and Tint, than older models.

otoh, there is one thing about the SC53c N and SC54c N, that was a deal breaker, for me. The tip of the clip lands under my opposing finger, when using the button. For me it was so uncomfortable to operate, I decided not to keep the last one I had, even though it was a LiIon friendly version.

If you want to hold out for a cult classic, try to hunt down a LiIon friendly version of the SC53c N from before Oct 2023. The newer SC53c N are not LiIon friendly, no point to buying one of those. imo if you dont want LiIon capability, you might as well buy the SC54c N

Another AA option to consider is the right angle version. It is smaller, smoother, and weighs less than the SC model. otoh, right angle lights are awqward to aim, and much more difficult to mouth hold, than a straight light.

the Floody H53Fc N model on the left has the Frosted lens, which has less throw, but you can buy it with the clear lens H54c N, if you prioritize throwy over floody.

here is the beam difference between the two lenses:

The H model has slightly lower output than the SC model, even when both have clear lenses. The frosted lens adds another lumen penalty, but produces a better beam for close work.

 

[flipyflop2]

Thanks for the great photos. Very useful size comparison reference.

I dont think it falls short at all. For an AA light, it does everything it is supposed to. It throws fine..

And the new 519a LED has much better color rendering, and Tint, than older models.

otoh, there is one thing about the SC53c N and SC54c N, that was a deal breaker, for me. The tip of the clip lands under my opposing finger, when using the button. For me it was so uncomfortable to operate, I decided not to keep the last one I had, even though it was a LiIon friendly version.

If you want to hold out for a cult classic, try to hunt down a LiIon friendly version of the SC53c N from before Oct 2023. The newer SC53c N are not LiIon friendly, no point to buying one of those. imo if you dont want LiIon capability, you might as well buy the SC54c N

Another AA option to consider is the right angle version. It is smaller, smoother, and weighs less than the SC model. otoh, right angle lights are awqward to aim, and much more difficult to mouth hold, than a straight light.
View attachment 78963

That's mostly the thing, I want to know if as an AA and not a 14500 flashlight it is powerful enough for my use.

I would like some 3-4000 candelas out of that form factor, which I have in a bunch of other 14500 flashlights, but I can't find data for the SC54c...

I have to say I can manage without an AA Zebra having the SC65c, it's barely bigger than most of my AA/14500 flashlights, it throws a lot further, and has tons more battery. But for summer wearing shorts a smaller flashlight is always good to have.

 

[dc38]

Honestly, your explanation is even more complicated than the Zebralight manual. :)

The only way to avoid the High pre flash (double click from OFF) is to set H1 to a very low L4 (0.03Lm) setting.

It's only as difficult as you want to make it, lol.

 

[jon_slider]

I would like some 3-4000 candelas

Welcome to the Quest ;-)

3-4000 candelas is not AA Zebra territory.

Here is a review of an SC53c N
it reports 1108 candela on H1 on Eneloop

Similar results would be expected from the SC54c N, since they use the same reflector and LED.

for summer

Im getting the impression you want a lightweight but very throwy option

If youre open to something other than an AA Zebra for that application, consider a Wurkkos TS10 SG.

The candela rating from this review is 9713 cd

if you want a lightweight Zebra, the H54c N is nice and small, but it is not for throw, its a close range light, even with the clear lens (which is sold out atm).. This one has the Frosted Lens:

 

[flipyflop2]

Welcome to the Quest ;-)

3-4000 candelas is not AA Zebra territory.

Here is a review of an SC53c N
it reports 1108 candela on H1 on Eneloop
View attachment 78973
Similar results would be expected from the SC54c N, since they use the same reflector and LED.


Im getting the impression you want a lightweight and throwy option

If youre open to something other than an AA Zebra for that application, consider a Wurkkos TS10 SG.

The candela rating from this review is 9713 cd

Great minds think alike! I got a TS10 SG this week with the Wurkkos offers, I think I paid just a little over 10€ including the 14500. I measured over 14000cd at 30 seconds, but if I remember right it keeps dropping quite fast, but it's still my throwiest 14500.

I have a table with all my flashlights, this is the AA/AAA and other smaller batteries part:

It's in spanish but I think quite understandable. Temp K, CRI and Medición (throw in m) are measured with an Opple Light Master 4 using turbo at 30 seconds, everything else is official data or data from trusted reviews when there's not enough official data.

A few of the flashlights that fall short (marked red) can match the official data at startup but not at 30 seconds.

 

[russprechtl]

I'm ashamed to admit it, but I can't remember which models these two AAs are (no marking handicaps me). Can one of our experts here please refresh me about which is which?

 

[jon_slider]

which is which?

LEDs could be XP-L2, LH351d, or 519a.. pics could help ID them,

each LED corresponds to a model name..

and can you compare the color of the two beams side by side (and maybe produce a photo for us), to determine which one is warmer, or cooler, or greener.. I recommend doing the comparison, and taking the photo, during daylight, not in the dark..

 

[russprechtl]

LEDs could be XP-L2, LH351d, or 519a.. pics could help ID them,

each LED corresponds to a model name..

and can you compare the color of the two beams side by side (and maybe produce a photo for us), to determine which one is warmer, or cooler, or greener.. I recommend doing the comparison, and taking the photo, during daylight, not in the dark..

Thanks Jon!

Here are the LEDs (green ano and then black ano):

Here are the beam shots (green on top and black on bottom):

I really wish they marked them. The only visual difference I found (other than ano color) is the shape of the switch retainer rings: