The Official Zebralight Thread

[this_is_nascar]

I'm not sure what reset you guys are talking about, but the purpose of this reset was always to get around the shortcomings when ZL took away the automatic ability to utilize the 14500, but would physically still work without doing harm to the light. The automatic switch back to a non-14500 was lost, so a reset had to be performed. This reset was nothing more than draining the juice that was left in the switching circuit, so the light could then know it was using the non-14500 cell.

That being said, take out the battery and leave the tail cap off. Press and hold the power button for 15-seconds or so. Try it then and see how it goes.

Please, I know my terms are not totally accurate, but the concept is, from what I've read over the years.

 

[jon_slider]

This reset was nothing more than draining the juice that was left in the switching circuit, so the light could then know it was using the non-14500 cell.

Agree!

I use that button hold (I do 2 seconds) on my Zebra SC53c N with the tailcap loose, when going back to AA Eneloop after LiIon. (I dont need to hold the button when I tighten the tailcap). I then do battery check on my Zebra, to confirm a full Eneloop gives 4 flashes.

I tested that like this:
First I ran the Zebra with a 14500 LiIon. Then I removed the LiIon and closed a full AA Eneloop into the Zebra (without holding the switch button first). Battery check only gives 1 flash. The Zebra acts like the battery is a drained LiIon. When I go to H1, the light immediately steps all the way down to 0.5 lumens.

After that test, I loosened the tailcap half a turn, and held the button for 2 seconds with the tailcap loose. I then let go of the button and reclosed the light. With the Eneloop, battery check now gives 4 flashes, and H1 gives 265 lumens (I ran it for 10 seconds, there were no step downs).

The SC54c N only works on Eneloop, and a full AA battery gives 4 flashes. No button press on an unclosed light is needed, but also does not hurt to try.

To verify the light recognizes AA correctly, do battery check on a full AA. If the light gives 4 flashes, the battery Voltage is correctly detected.

 

[indigon]

The SC54c N only works on Eneloop, and a full AA battery gives 4 flashes. No button press on an unclosed light is needed, but also does not hurt to try.

To verify the light recognizes AA correctly, do battery check on a full AA. If the light gives 4 flashes, the battery Voltage is correctly detected.

I have a late model SC53c that wouldn't work on Li-Ion after trying one in it for a test, probably similar to the current newer SC54c. But when I went back to a fully charged Eneloop I only got 1 flash. So the firmware still seemed to recognize I had tested a Li-Ion in it previously, even though it wouldn't work with Li-Ion. After a reset the light gives 4 flashes on Eneloop's properly now. As Jon mentioned above a reset won't hurt, especially if your light is acting strange.

 

[sbslider]

I have a late model SC53c that doesn't work on Li-Ion, . . . As mentioned above reset never hurts if your light is acting strange.

I have a HC53c that also doesn't work with Li-ion. I recently was trying to use it with a very depleted alkaline and it did some sort of self reset. That is, the levels I had programmed in were gone, and I'm guessing I had default levels on G6 and G7. I tried to do the reset, but didn't do it the way jon_slider wrote. I reprogrammed my light and continued the current runtime test that is nearly done.

Just now I removed the cell I was using and put in a 1.27V Eneloop and tried to see what the battery voltage would read. I got 1 flash. I put a 1.5V alkaline in, and also got 1 flash. I removed the alkaline, but my "test cell" back in and pondered the situation. I didn't really want to do a reset, as I feared it may also reset my programmed levels for G6 and G7. After a minute or two I decided to try the reset anyway. I put the same 1.5V alkaline cell back in, and did the batt check. One flash. Not sure why, but I ran batt check again. Two flashes. Hmm, well why not one more time. Now 4 flashes.
With a 1.27v Eneloop, I get 1 flash.
with a 1.4V heavy duty cell I get 1 flash.
1.34 V Eneloop give 3 flashes.
1.28V Eneloop gives 2 flashes.
1.28 V alkaline gives 1 flash.
Tried a AAA cell at 1.5V, got 1 flash.

Weird. For some reason the batt check seemed to heal itself (or something). Or perhaps the time between switching cells has some effect? Not sure.

Or perhaps the electronics also measure how much the cell voltage decays with the flash to determine the cell health.

 

[indigon]

Weird. For some reason the batt check seemed to heal itself (or something). Or perhaps the time between switching cells has some effect? Not sure.

Sometimes just unscrewing and re-tightening the tail cap changes the batt check on my SC53c.. Resting, healing, recharging itself or just odd batt check interpretation - who knows? I just keep the contacts clean and freshly charged batteries available.

 

[sbslider]

Sometimes just unscrewing and re-tightening the tail cap changes the batt check on my SC53c..

I wondered about the contact resistance of the tailcap also.

 

[jon_slider]

re-tightening the tail cap changes the batt check on my SC53c

thanks for mentioning that

I dont trust batt check on my SC53c N. It reads low and only gives 1 blink when LiIon is still at 3.84V, which is over half full.

I keep an eye out to notice when the output steps down due to low battery. And I remove the battery periodically to check voltage, using one of my Anduril lights.

contact resistance of the tailcap

Sometimes when me AA Zebra output gets dim, like it might be if the battery was low and the output is stepping down, cleaning the bottom of the battery brings the output back up to normal. As if the spring was not making good contact.. I sometimes wonder if the 53 spring is too soft..

Maybe there is some benefit to the new stiffer spring in the 54 tailcap (on right side of pic):

Here are some comparison pics. It does indeed look a tiny bit thicker and shorter

(new spring does not work w AAA)

 

[DE73]

I have tried Energizer Ultimate Lithium and they still blink. Brand new batteries.
It most be something wrong with the lights. I don't know what else to test?

Yesterday I tried with Varta batteries and also some rechargeable but still the same blink.

 

[dc38]

Yesterday I tried with Varta batteries and also some rechargeable but still the same blink.

Factory reset the mode groups and see if the issue persists? And as others have mentioned...extra clean the contact points? I.e. the bottom of the body tube, the cell contact points i.e spring and driver and try bridging the negative side with a piece of wire or foil, and see if the blink still occurs.

**Basically, you want to rule out the tailcap as a point of issue, so using foil or a wire to close the circuit will still let the switch/driver function like normal. If anything, it SEEMS like it could be a faulty capacitor or excessive parasitic drain, causing a battery detect flash every 90 seconds...but I also have a tendency to overthink things, so...yeah, at your discretion lol

 

[jon_slider]

still the same blink

thanks for testing other batteries,
sorry both your AA Zebra SC54c N have a recurring blink every 90 seconds

 

[jon_slider]

Zebra froze up for the first time.

I used my SC64c LE last night at level 1.

This morning I turned it on to change the output. It came on at very low output, but would not respond to button clics, would not change output, and would not switch off.

Solved by unscrewing tailcap. ( learned that from this post by Tim McMahon):

"the torch freezes when turning it on. I have noticed this with multiple different torches from ZebraLight. It happens very rarely but when it happens I need to unscrew the tailcap to turn the torch off and on again."

 

[indigon]

Zebra froze up for the first time.

I used my SC64c LE last night at level 1.

This morning I turned it on to change the output. It came on at very low output, but would not respond to button clics, would not change output, and would not switch off.

Solved by unscrewing tailcap. ( learned that from this post by Tim McMahon):

"the torch freezes when turning it on. I have noticed this with multiple different torches from ZebraLight. It happens very rarely but when it happens I need to unscrew the tailcap to turn the torch off and on again."

Has also happened to me with multiple different Zebralights on rare occasions. Can't narrow down the cause, usually happens to me during a programming click-fest frenzy (more often programming lower levels? Not certain.). Always seems to freeze on at a low level though. Sometimes happens on a lonely Zebra that hasn't been used for awhile.

Sometimes I can break it out out of a frozen "on" funk with a very long press-hold followed by a bunch of short clicks.

Batteries are usually near full so not that. Very rarely happens out of the blue with normal use. Just my 2¢ worth of observation.. -Firmware glitches happen.

(Edited to add: This has been reported by numerous serious ZL users also).

 

[jon_slider]

Always seems to freeze on at a low level though.

thanks for your thoughts, that is true in my case also

fwiw
battery is half full (2 blinks)
light was used normally on my G6 at medium and high the evening before..
no programming clicfest

I switched to G7 and used levels 1, 2, and 3 for a bathroom run late at night, then turned the light off normally

this morning I turned it on at level 1, switch button was non responsive after that

unscrewed tailcap, retightened, light works normally again.. I switched back to G6...

As a test, I just repeated the behavior of going to G7, and using Levels 1, 2 and 3. No problem.. unable to make it freeze again..

 

[indigon]

As a test, I just repeated the behavior of going to G7, and using Levels 1, 2 and 3. No problem.. unable to make it freeze again..

I've only been into ZLights a few years so I don't have the experience with them most of you guys do. Really like them a lot though the more I use them.

I guess in this day and age we get used to glitches in phones, computers - everything electronic really and get used to it. When in doubt, reboot, right?

I'm still baffled by @DE73's 90 second blinking issue with the SC54c N and then having the same problem with a 2nd replacement light from Zebralight. It's so bizarre and as far as I know an undocumented issue that makes me think it's something simple with an obvious solution we just haven't come up with yet..

 

[dc38]

Yesterday I tried with Varta batteries and also some rechargeable but still the same blink.

Could you take a clear picture of how the inside of the battery tube looks, plus the undersides of the drivers of both lights?

 

[DE73]

I've only been into ZLights a few years so I don't have the experience with them most of you guys do. Really like them a lot though the more I use them.

I guess in this day and age we get used to glitches in phones, computers - everything electronic really and get used to it. When in doubt, reboot, right?

I'm still baffled by @DE73's 90 second blinking issue with the SC54c N and then having the same problem with a 2nd replacement light from Zebralight. It's so bizarre and as far as I know an undocumented issue that makes me think it's something simple with an obvious solution we just haven't come up with yet..

Similar issue but long time ago.

Thread 'zebralight H51FC flash'

Mar 30, 2012

Looked everywhere and could not find an answer. My H51FC will blink when off. Seems to do it on time and when it does blink the output seems to be low. Does it about every few mins or so like clockwork. I am using enegizer nimh. I haven't tried it with any other AA. Thought I would here some opinions. Light works great by the way.

Thanks

• teak
• Replies: 27
• Forum: Headlamps

 

[indigon]

Similar issue but long time ago.

Thread 'zebralight H51FC flash'

Mar 30, 2012

Looked everywhere and could not find an answer. My H51FC will blink when off. Seems to do it on time and when it does blink the output seems to be low. Does it about every few mins or so like clockwork. I am using enegizer nimh. I haven't tried it with any other AA. Thought I would here some opinions. Light works great by the way.

Thanks

• teak
• Replies: 27
• Forum: Headlamps

Excellent research. Does seem to pointing toward some type of faulty voltage regulation problem, I know you have tried it with different battery types.

 

[DE73]

Could you take a clear picture of how the inside of the battery tube looks, plus the undersides of the drivers of both lights?

Best I could do. One light is already packet for shipping back to China.

 

[jon_slider]

One light is already packet for shipping back to China.

I look forward to your happy outcome ;-)

 

[jon_slider]

I received an SC54c N, Im enjoying it ;-)

fwiw, Zebralight output specs for the SC54 dont match my lumen meter.
here is spec, and measured:

look at level 7 and 8 to see how much closer the H53 spec is to the SC54 I measured

imo, at some point, whoever put the Zebra specs on the website for SC53 and SC54, got them switched with the specs for the H53..

iow, SC specs are actually closer to correct for measured H model output
and H model specs are actually closer to correct for measured SC model output

Here is a comparison of Opple 3 Flicker Index for my SC53 and SC54, with their measured lumens on G5: