Armytek Wizard Pro Prototype Long-Term Testing

[cronus]

Thanks bradthebold for the update from Armytek. I received no response from them. It also sounds like a few have identified the lens coating defect too. That one bothers me, not because it affects anything much other than looks, but because it would have been such an easy thing to prevent in production.
A quick inspection of the lens before assembling in the light would have prevented them from getting into the field. Again I find it difficult to believe that it was not spotted ahead of time and allowed to ship anyway. This is not the level of QC I expect from Armytek, based on their other models.
Edit: I did receive a response. Just an update on the lockup issue status. They passed along my reproducing method and have now "serious news about the issue". They also have recreated the lockup and are hopeful for a solution soon.

 

[petr9999]

can you take a picture of the lens, where it will be visible?

 

[cronus]

I posted this earlier, as a link:

 

[petr9999]

Hm, interesting... that looks like it is worn off (not blaming you fyi)

 

[cronus]

I thought that too, but if you look closely, the only spot where the coating is completely intact is right in the center. The rest is giving off a brighter reflection. I take this to mean that the center AR coating is complete and the outer part is incomplete.
Edit: I forgot to add, cleaning it has no positive or negative effect on the coating.

 

[ArcticHighlander]

I thought that too, but if you look closely, the only spot where the coating is completely intact is right in the center. The rest is giving off a brighter reflection. I take this to mean that the center AR coating is complete and the outer part is incomplete.
Edit: I forgot to add, cleaning it has no positive or negative effect on the coating.

Isn't the AR coating applied on the inside? Or to both sides? The similar area on mine is center top with a surrounding halo. I had assumed that that this clearer area was the defective area but I see what you mean about the surrounding area giving off a brighter reflection. In which case three quarters of the lens coating on mine is incomplete.

 

[ArcticHighlander]

I received a response from Armytek that they will replace the defective lens but to be patient until their techs come up with a fix for the lock up problem (rather than replace one defective light now with another one with the same lock up problem). They asked me to send a photo of the defective lens. I'll have to borrow a camera and see if I can get a good photo to show it.

 

[Knight_Light]

did they tell u what temperature they have dropped it to?

No they did not indicate what temperature they dropped it to.

 

[Knight_Light]

Or happen to mention anything about warning colours?

They did not mention anything about the warning colors as well.

 

[Knight_Light]

I don't have a H600 (waiting for the H602, hopefully soon) but all your perceptions about the Armytek I agree with 100%. Button is way too hard to press and not as ergonomic as the other Zebralights that I do own (H50/H50-B/H30w/H502x2/H31/H51F/H51). I found it odd someone in here (was you you knight-light?) that actually preferred the Armytek switch to the Zebralight. I see no way in the world this can be honestly seen as an improvement over what I perceive as perfect from Zebralight. It is a recessed and soft click button which is ergonomically located in a logical place. The Armytek is awkward and way too stiff to press.

I definitely prefer the switch on the Armytek better. Granted I have probably stronger fingers from climbing then most, but I have no issues pressing the switch. Don't get me wrong the switch on the zebra light is nice. But I prefer the Armytek as I have yet to have it activate on me by accident. And the biggest point for me, is utilizing the headlamp with heavy gloves. It is nearly impossible with the zebra light. That's something nobody on here has even brought up. To me being able to operate with heavy gloves is important, it is a critical point in favor of the Armytek.

 

[Knight_Light]

I guess we can all find areas for improvements or changes that suit us, but those changes may spoil the appeal of the light for someone else.

I certainly agree that they seem to have made some last-minute changes to the production versions without proper checking. Not recalibrating the temperature indicator after lowering the thermal stepdown point is a bit of a sloppy mistake.
The fact that we are experiencing random lockups is a lot less acceptable.

+1

 

[Knight_Light]

To me the Zebralights are the best of the best, and I am disappointed only Zebralight has switches like this, as I wish ALL lights had this type of soft switch.

Take a look at the spark headlamps. They have a really nice switch that is similar to zebra light, except it is not recessed.

 

[EsthetiX]

If I may make a suggestion, I would get the unprotected cells from fasttech.com (FASTTECH SKU 1141100) $15 for 2 batteries delivered. These are Panasonic NCR18650B 3400 mAh.

I've been using the orbtronic 3400mAh 18650 protected cells. I've never used unprotected... What kind of difference should I expect?

 

[markr6]

And the biggest point for me, is utilizing the headlamp with heavy gloves. It is nearly impossible with the zebra light. That's something nobody on here has even brought up. To me being able to operate with heavy gloves is important, it is a critical point in favor of the Armytek.

+1. The ZL H600 is too small, firm and recessed. I love my H51w though...you can lightly tap it with a fingernail and you're all set! And I never had an accidental activation. Most seem to like the new switch though. This Armytek looks to be the best of both styles.

 

[EsthetiX]

Same here no offence, I agree with you beacon of light you should send back the Armytek lights as you don't seem to like them and that's Ok you are welcome to like them or not and have your opinion, you really seem to like zebra so you should stick to them if they are better for your needs. It just seems that almost every post of yours is so negative to a point that is almost like flaming/trolling (or maybe just me to me) to a point that is spoiling the thread for those that own and like the Armytek lights and want to discuss them - you have made your point now, try to see it from mine and don't take offence please.

Well said... And I'm sure most people following this thread would agree with this.

 

[Beacon of Light]

Sorry I did check them out and I can;t get past the bulky nature of the lights and poor runtime, so they are dead to me.

Take a look at the spark headlamps. They have a really nice switch that is similar to zebra light, except it is not recessed.

 

[Beacon of Light]

So even though I spent $200 on 2 of these lights I can't express my opinions on them despite also having the same lockup issues on BOTH lights I bought from Armytek? I didn't know you had to be a cheerleader in order to review a light. I prefer to be honest and tell the good with the bad on any light I purchase and review. I respect reviews that mention pro and cons and not just, "rah rah rah, this is the best" type of pablum puke.

Well said... And I'm sure most people following this thread would agree with this.

 

[RedForest UK]

You certainly are entitled to share your opinions. I have no problem with that at all, but I think you have already done so quite clearly.

 

[Knight_Light]

Re: Thank goodness for the Interwebs

Thank goodness for the Interwebs and the collaborative powers of the flashlight forums brains trust!

Looks like we've made some proper progress at last.

Only a short time to play this morning as I have to leave for work but the LED indicator seems to be the deciding factor. The strobe may or may not be involved.

My results the same as cronus and others - with the Indicator turned on again I haven't been able to get the lockup. I will continue testing this evening just to be sure.

My unqualified opinion is that whatever "residual charge" is causing the problem is drained by the Indicator circuit just as it would be by loosening the tailcap and pressing the switch or waiting for it to decay.

Knight_Light - If you are about would you care to test this theory on your pre-production sample for us as well?

I don’t think your theory is accurate as I am unable to reproduce it. But after sifting through all the posts, what I suspect is the problem is something that hasn’t been mentioned yet. 1st​ of all I think it is a software problem and not a hardware problem. I also think it is related with the lockout feature (when you press the button and then hold it down to let it cycle through all of the modes and then turns off). I think somehow the light is getting stuck in an infinite loop and then the only way to unlock it is to drain the circuit as others have mentioned.

 

[Knight_Light]

I've been using the orbtronic 3400mAh 18650 protected cells. I've never used unprotected... What kind of difference should I expect?

You should expect double the runtime since they are half the price. :) All kidding aside the orbs are awesome batteries that utilize the same exact cell. So I doubt you would see much of a difference.