HDS Systems #23

[dc38]

I use these in mine: https://www.keeppower.com.cn/products_detail.php?id=335
KeepPower 16650, 2500mAh. Maybe there are better options, like some "slim" 18650 out there?

Thanks, I use the same ones, but I'm looking for a better signal spring. I'm just going to try the brass strip mod, and "affix" it with silicone or some other semi permanent bonding.

 

[aznsx]

Thanks, I use the same ones, but I'm looking for a better signal spring. I'm just going to try the brass strip mod, and "affix" it with silicone or some other semi permanent bonding.

First, I don't know jack about HDS / Novatac lights;-)

I recently started using those particular 16650s in a couple of (other) lights and am curious. I gather you'd like to use an 18650 instead in a particular light. Have you had any issue(s) using those 16650s, or is this simply an automatic 'more is better' thing? I have 4 more of those 16650s sitting on my table new in the unopened box, so that's why I'm asking;-)

 

[dc38]

First, I don't know jack about HDS / Novatac lights;-)

I recently started using those particular 16650s in a couple of (other) lights and am curious. I gather you'd like to use an 18650 instead in a particular light. Have you had any issue(s) using those 16650s, or is this simply an automatic 'more is better' thing? I have 4 more of those 16650s sitting on my table new in the unopened box, so that's why I'm asking;-)

No issues with the 16650 at all, they're great. I just want more runtime, and the signal spring gives a momentary disconnect when getting knocked around, and the light registers it as a battery reconnect. With a brass bar, it shouldnt do that.

Hypothetically, it should fix the impact contact issue as well as allow me to use a larger cell.

 

[Lithium466]

Maybe I am not understanding this correctly, but I think your issue isn't with the signal spring but with the battery contact - loosing signal spring contact just has the button stop registering presses. To help with that you can extend the spring a bit to have it push a bit more strongly on the contacts. Unless the signal spring contacts something else? I did shake and bump my SPA-120 and didn't get much apart from momentary button inactivity.

Loosing battery contact (and on some Novatac variants it can be quite flimsy) would have the light register it as battery reconnect.

 

[dc38]

Maybe I am not understanding this correctly, but I think your issue isn't with the signal spring but with the battery contact - loosing signal spring contact just has the button stop registering presses. To help with that you can extend the spring a bit to have it push a bit more strongly on the contacts. Unless the signal spring contacts something else? I did shake and bump my SPA-120 and didn't get much apart from momentary button inactivity.

Loosing battery contact (and on some Novatac variants it can be quite flimsy) would have the light register it as battery reconnect.

It'll pop into reconnect mode, constant on higher modes with button inoperability, etc, so it's probably of a mix of contact issues due to impact. A 16650 is not snug in the tube, so it has about 1mm of lateral play when using the spring, it rattles in the 17670 tube. Looking at the brass mod with 18650, there is substantially less play, so it should be less likely for the battery or switch to disconnect.

That aside, the only thing I would imagine helping is to solder a contact plate or blob to either or both springs to fill in any space left by the ~2 mm's worth of length difference between a 16(65)0 (or 18(65)0) and 17(67)0. That's another thing I should probably do to the tail spring, the end isn't bent in, so it's ridiculously sharp and is gouging a small circle in my cells...

 

[dc38]

So...I went ahead and did the brass strip mod. The closest ACE to me is kinda far, and I couldn't justify driving that far for a $1 brass strip...so I did the next best thing and googled the company that supplies it. KS Metals, 5×36" strips of the 1/4"×0.016" brass for $16, or $3.20 per strip, or roughly $1.07 per foot, basically the same price as Ace. I also added a bag of random metal scraps, as well as a couple threading dies/bits, and they shipped it super quick.

So far the brass strip is working great, but I'm inclined to shove an extra Oring around the tailspring to ensure that the strip never makes contact with the spring. I'm not as worried about the outer retaining ring, as the mechanics of an inward bend SHOULD keep the strip from bending outwards.

 

[ilikeguns40]

NA50 is nice!

 

[jon_slider]

So far the brass strip is working great

Great to hear!

Ive never tried that, seems useful for a Novatac to gain 18350 capability

could you share some pics of your brass strip please?

 

[dc38]

@jon_slider

 

[dc38]

When removing the cell to charge, the brass strip comes out as well, and sits on the desk until both of them get reinserted in tandem

 

[dc38]

Did a short run "test" yesterday. Light on max for 1h15m , somewhere between 250-350 lumens, probably around 320ish based on a ceiling bounce comparison.

popped it into the charger at 3.9v, applied 1029mAh to the 3500mAh cell. Based on extrapolation, the light can probably sustain close to 4 hours on max, or roughly 1200 lumenhours. Based on a prior runtime using a low of around 50lm for over 14 hours(extrapolated to 23hr) the lumenhours would seem to be pretty consistent.

 

[the.Mtn.Man]

Tried multiple known good cells, both primary and rechargeable. I've never disassembled the light beyond removing the battery tube, so I doubt there is any contamination on the board. I suspect it's a failed component considering the problem became progressively worse over time until the light failed completely.

But it's in Henry's hands now, so he will make it right... eventually.

In my best spongebob narrator voice..."wun, eternity, layturrrr..."

You weren't kidding. Nearly four months later, and I finally have my repaired Rotary back in my hands. Henry said he had to rebuild the head to fix the fault, so it's basically a brand new flashlight.

The Maglite XL200 was a worthy companion, but it's nice to have my trust Rotary back in my pocket.

 

[KonCha]

I recently received the NA45 I had ordered, and in my opinion, the beam looks very neutral to my eyes — I'm quite satisfied with it.

However, I noticed a small chip in the black nitride bezel, and there's also a copper-colored mark around the rotary knob, possibly from a clamp or tool used during assembly.

While these don't affect functionality in any way, I'm wondering if I might be being too picky about such cosmetic issues.

 

[ilikeguns40]

I recently received the NA45 I had ordered, and in my opinion, the beam looks very neutral to my eyes — I'm quite satisfied with it.

However, I noticed a small chip in the black nitride bezel, and there's also a copper-colored mark around the rotary knob, possibly from a clamp or tool used during assembly.

While these don't affect functionality in any way, I'm wondering if I might be being too picky about such cosmetic issues.

 

[russprechtl]

W

I recently received the NA45 I had ordered, and in my opinion, the beam looks very neutral to my eyes — I'm quite satisfied with it.

However, I noticed a small chip in the black nitride bezel, and there's also a copper-colored mark around the rotary knob, possibly from a clamp or tool used during assembly.

While these don't affect functionality in any way, I'm wondering if I might be being too picky about such cosmetic issues.

With what they charge? In my opinion, it had better be flawless out of the box. It's not an organic material like wood. Drop the price if you want to send me imperfections.

 

[ilikeguns40]

I let very small things slide, but for the price - yes they should be flawless as in no chips anywhere. I’ve saw flashlights under $50 that are flawless. I’d like to see a pic of the chip

 

[KonCha]

To be honest, considering the price, I do feel a bit disappointed. However, the light it emits is truly outstanding, so I've decided to treat it not as a shelf queen but as a practical tool for everyday carry.

 

[ilikeguns40]

I'd say those nicks are unacceptable on a $450 light. You are buying a brand new product. The product should be flawless, regardless what the price is.

Think of it this way, say you wanted to immediately sell it, you would now have to list the item as used just because of those marks.

I use my lights, so for me I wouldn’t be worried about it. It’s gonna get marked up anyway. However, does not add to the fact that a light that costs as much as they do should arrive like that.

 

[the.Mtn.Man]

I recently received the NA45 I had ordered, and in my opinion, the beam looks very neutral to my eyes — I'm quite satisfied with it.

However, I noticed a small chip in the black nitride bezel, and there's also a copper-colored mark around the rotary knob, possibly from a clamp or tool used during assembly.

While these don't affect functionality in any way, I'm wondering if I might be being too picky about such cosmetic issues.

Yes, you are being too picky.

 

[Mgizler]

I stepped away for a bit and am shocked by how much the standard 250 rotary is. The last one I bought was 284$ new. I just can't believe it's 383$. I was going to snag another one, but that's out of my reach. I love these lights and still have an old clicky, but damn….