HDS Systems #23

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... he could have much more easily transitioned his business to a handful of "limited edition" lights a year and sold them for a huge markup.
But this does not work if there are too much "limited editions". When you check out the Rotary Limited Editions, titanium Brass and Bronze were working more or less fine. They were sold out during pre-order or when the remaining devices were there for public sale.
The sale for BeCu and Stainless steel took longer. The last BeCu light was sold month after it was available....
 
But this does not work if there are too much "limited editions". When you check out the Rotary Limited Editions, titanium Brass and Bronze were working more or less fine. They were sold out during pre-order or when the remaining devices were there for public sale.
The sale for BeCu and Stainless steel took longer. The last BeCu light was sold month after it was available....

BeCu and SS might be the wrong materials for Limited Editions.

Rolesor maybe?

:)
 
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But this does not work if there are too much "limited editions". When you check out the Rotary Limited Editions, titanium Brass and Bronze were working more or less fine. They were sold out during pre-order or when the remaining devices were there for public sale.
The sale for BeCu and Stainless steel took longer. The last BeCu light was sold month after it was available....
The point is, there was no reason for Henry to go to the trouble and expense of setting up in-house manufacturing if he was planning to be a boutique "collector's brand" going forward.
 
BeCu and SS might be the wrong materials for Limited Editions.

Rolesor maybe?

:)
I will never forget when A.P. came out with a stainless steel watch, then charged a premium for using S.S. at the time. It seemed beyond ridiculous! But ironically, insane luxury watch buyers ate it up and happily asked for more! Who knows, same thing could happen in the flashlight world.
 
I will never forget when A.P. came out with a stainless steel watch, then charged a premium for using S.S. at the time. It seemed beyond ridiculous! But ironically, insane luxury watch buyers ate it up and happily asked for more! Who knows, same thing could happen in the flashlight world.

The Royal Oak? It sure is a very nice watch in steel. Most of Gerald Genta's designs are very nice watches.

A pity he didn't design flashlights too, or did he?
 
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Hello tongkang! They made plenty of the 120 XP-G HCRI lights as they were the standard HCRI offering for a few years I believe. The last batch that was calibrated at 140 lumens were made in much lower numbers (like less than 40).
I know of 2 HCRI 3700K XP-G Rotary 140's. ;)
There were 27 produced according to my emails.
 
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I finally figured out how to protect my rotary from over-battery use. With the HIVE or X17Fx I can either select another preset or fix the average level and give it to someone else. There are times when I need to hand the flashlight to someone to shine for me, but most of these people turn the flashlight on maximum brightness, even if it is something powerful at 5000 lumens. Even if I point out to them that this is excessive, they do not listen. Here everything turned out to be easy - I set the strobe to level A, levels 12 and 18 to B and C, and set the disk rotation to level D. For the last 3 weeks no one has figured out that you have to do 3 clicks to use the rotary function
 
I finally figured out how to protect my rotary from over-battery use. With the HIVE or X17Fx I can either select another preset or fix the average level and give it to someone else. There are times when I need to hand the flashlight to someone to shine for me, but most of these people turn the flashlight on maximum brightness, even if it is something powerful at 5000 lumens. Even if I point out to them that this is excessive, they do not listen. Here everything turned out to be easy - I set the strobe to level A, levels 12 and 18 to B and C, and set the disk rotation to level D. For the last 3 weeks no one has figured out that you have to do 3 clicks to use the rotary function
Wouldn't it be easier to have a single output flashlight like an LED Mini Maglite to hand to other people?
 
Do u have the current NB27 ? If so which more u like 😁
I have had an HDS NB27.
7.jpg

It had a beautiful Warm color, but for my personal preference, it was too warm and showed skin tones in a way that looked a bit unnatural.

I had a light w 3700K XP-G, and since the color of the beam is not as warm as 2700K, I liked how it showed the color of my skin, better than 2700K

The closest to that 3700K XP-G color temperature, presently available from HDS is the 3500K 219b, which they call NB35:
Screen Shot 2025-01-13 at 12.19.14 PM.png


Here is a pic of an HDS w 3500K 219b:
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So I've been wanting a McGizmo for a while now but didn't want redundancy in my collection so I went with a Mule on a 1x123 pak. It will be my first mule and didn't really know what to expect so I figured I would just take the reflector assembly off of my rotary and turn it on and see what I think and I was pleasantly surprised by how much I enjoyed not having a defined hotspot but rather just a wall of beautiful light from my NB45.

This got me to thinking how to go about "muling"? my rotary since I really enjoy the user interface. First, I thought about just popping off reflector assembly but it is attached to the bezel and lens. This leads me to thinking I need to modify the reflector to not reflect. How would I do this appropriately? I was surprised that there wasn't an aftermarket mule reflector assembly out there.
 
Nevermind. I realize unless the LED is as close to the lens as possible it's kind of pointless and waste a lot of lumen output. :(
 
So I've been wanting a McGizmo for a while now but didn't want redundancy in my collection so I went with a Mule on a 1x123 pak. It will be my first mule and didn't really know what to expect so I figured I would just take the reflector assembly off of my rotary and turn it on and see what I think and I was pleasantly surprised by how much I enjoyed not having a defined hotspot but rather just a wall of beautiful light from my NB45.

This got me to thinking how to go about "muling"? my rotary since I really enjoy the user interface. First, I thought about just popping off reflector assembly but it is attached to the bezel and lens. This leads me to thinking I need to modify the reflector to not reflect. How would I do this appropriately? I was surprised that there wasn't an aftermarket mule reflector assembly out there.

If you need a mule in a hurry, just unscrew the bezel of your HDS. If it takes the reflector with it (most of mine do), you've got yourself an improvised mule for close work.
 
Good call. That's what I've been doing until the Mule anrrives. After looking at it, a whole new head assembly would have to be designed to achieve the desired mule with the existing head setup.
 
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