MidnightDistortions
Flashlight Enthusiast
Never had a standard Eneloop completely discharge on me (infact I tried to but Eneloops when new are overcharge protected and recover quickly) but i pair them based on recorded capacity from the C9000 and try to stop using the device when it's noticeably dying (getting dim). Even my AAA Duraloops regain when they're reading dead (under 0.3v) on a charger.the LSD on my older white ones seem to be starting to fail, and they don't hold up as well to higher currents, a.k.a. 1.5A+. They only charge up about 1700mAh from "empty", but a battery test shows them to be around 1948mAh..I might have to run a couple refresh discharge cycles to fix them. My blue ones are holding up strong with the exception of one, which I must have inadvertently let go into a deep discharge...Thankfully, I have a couple old tenergy D's that hold at least 8000mAh each, so I just use those in parallel to "jump" the old eneloops to wake them up.
*I have yet to see a costco AA leak, but allegedly the Costcos are mfg by duracell...However, I have a 20 pack that suffered 8 leaks, with an expiry date of 2032.
Had my EBL 2800 mAh cell do this and recovering was a pain. Took 24 hours in this older Rayovac NiMH PS1 charger. But it recovered it and had bought 2 more on Ebay. I'm needing more due to the older non lsd cells needing them.
Wal-Mart website carries Eneloop now. Seems Home Depot site also carries them, I have yet to see them in the stores.
Yeah it either seems like you got a bad batch or counterfeit cells. I've been using the C9000 and the Eneloop chargers which seems to do well. I'd be weary of those Costco batteries if they are rebrand Duracells. One of the reasons I got more Eneloop is because I have 2 Alkaline Duracells in a digital thermometer/outside temp reader. I had forgotten I put them in there, thankfully they haven't leaked but I gotta get them out.
On another note if I didn't mention it 4 of 8 Eneloop Pro AAAs I have were discharging poorly in my Opus charger. They already have high IR which the C9000 rejected them. But functioned ok, but one cell ended up dead in my LED lenser T7 but surprisingly recovered on its own. So I ended up fully discharging the cells in my Opus charger then stuck 3 of the cells in a Ozark Trail 3AAA light which will flash when it detects one cell weaker than the others so I can switch it to low or off.
The other Pro AAA got put in my Fenix E01, the original version that will discharge cells down pretty far enabling me to turn the light on and off without it not working, essentially I just work the battery for a minute and then it rest. The voltage recovered slowly to allow more of a discharge. Later on I just tossed that battery in my SkyRc MC3000, set the discharge voltage to 0.9 volts, zero on the reduce mA which causes it to constantly discharge the battery down to 0.9v, I did set a timer for 2 hours (120min) to allow rest and I won't have to monitor it. Did that for about a week and sure enough it's still reading 0.97v. Which suggests it's got the capacity in there.
Sure enough the batteries all 4 of them went from 200-300 to over 550 in capacity!! Couldn't get that from a simple discharge recharge cycle as I got lower values. These batteries are weak and overcharged. Also they're from 2014 so they're 12 years old but the other set are hanging in there at 70% of max capacity.
I'm at round 2 at discharging the weaker cells and seeing if I can't gain even more capacity. But at 60+% capacity they're doing well. I don't want to risk killing cycles or the rebound voltage as they can be killed if reversed polarity happens. But lesson learned, charging them at a low rate isn't good for them and ideally they should just be used until they reach about 1.23v (rest) before recharging.