MAG BORING-I BUILT MY OWN MILL-PICT!

Northern Lights

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I did not like being dependent on only one or two people willing to bore Mag Lights. Besides the cost is noticeable. Locally no machinist was up to the job without wanting their pockets lined with gold, and some had outlandish explanations of what was required to mill the familiar bi, tri and quad channels.

I had hand bored a quad once. It was a lot of work and looks uneven but the light functions. So I bought a cross vise, $45, some metal, bolts and nuts, $35 and an expensive cutter $39. I had the drill. I got a single purpose-milling machine for about $120.
Post #21 below has all the pictures click here or scroll down
mmillmm0.jpg
 
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LuxLuthor

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WOW, now that's awsome. I'm not quite getting how you get the grooves so even. The light body goes in the vise? Then are you sliding over a long bit so it takes out the groove from the side of the bit? Seems like the long bit or the tube would vibrate....but that is a hell of a result.

I'd love to get a better idea how you did all the part of this.
 

Northern Lights

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WOW, now that's awsome. I'm not quite getting how you get the grooves so even. The light body goes in the vise? Then are you sliding over a long bit so it takes out the groove from the side of the bit? Seems like the long bit or the tube would vibrate....but that is a hell of a result.

I'd love to get a better idea how you did all the part of this.
The frame is obviously just rectangular frame. The cross-slide vise can positioned anywhere on it. the two end posts are threaded. A 1/2 inch bar transversses the end posts. The bar floats inside two 1/2 square tube connectore that ride on the end posts. Elevation is set with nuts on the posts. One end bar has offset a brass tube as a bearing for the extension shaft. A second bearing floats on the cross bar (in red) and can be secured in position with a lock screw. The mag tube goes over the cutter and cross bar; the cross bar and cutter are inside the mag tube. Then it is all positioned on the vice. Mag tube is hand indexed in the vice. Cranking the cutter into the wall cuts the Mag tube. The length of cut is determined by cranking the "y" axix crank. Releasing the jaws and backing off the cut allows you to turn the tube to index the next cut. The cutting shaft has some stroke movement, determined by the location of the second bearing.
Buiding it was actually pretty quick.. This is the second version. 1st version held a Dremel extension cutter. Not enough torque with that. I let the cross bar float with the Dremel and used hand pressure to determine stroke and depth. Final version the vice does it and that is what I first imagined anyway.
The trick is to set the vice jaw edges parallel with the cross bar. Second feat of engineering was making the bearing parallel to the cross bar and perfectly aligned to each other. They are soldered to their slides. The cutter is expensive and is 19mm in diameter, same as any "A" cell.
 

Northern Lights

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I just realized why it does not vibrate! No matter how well I center the cutter in the extension shaft, it is always a little off-center. So for every rotation it only takes a small bite. It is the same principle as a mill cutter that cuts on the tip of a bit on part of the rotation.
 

Aircraft800

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WOW!

I can't believe how straight your cuts are! I can't believe the tool doesn't drift more. I guess aluminum is pretty soft anyway.

Nice Job, you could probably sell a few of these here, or your services.
 

Icebreak

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The bores look accurate. I'll chime in a +1 on the crafty nature of the device. A few more attached production pad modules and you will be able to build custom motorcycles and rocket launched gliders.

No kidding, I like simple solutions that work well and are built with a minimum of finance. :thumbsup:

- Jeff
 

Northern Lights

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The bores look accurate. I'll chime in a +1 on the crafty nature of the device. A few more attached production pad modules and you will be able to build custom motorcycles and rocket launched gliders.

No kidding, I like simple solutions that work well and are built with a minimum of finance. :thumbsup:

- Jeff
I experimented with an old body I have here. Then did the 2D you see. I was still learning the peculiarities of the machine, e.g. alignment, indexing, depth of cut, etc. There are imperfections due to my inexperience, evenson the job looks acceptable and my 9x GP 2000 pack fit into it. Next one should even be better now I understand its working better.
 

Northern Lights

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very nice machine!

TIP: If you want more rigidity, make the axe as short as possible.


Pablo
That is what the floating second bearing allows me to do. I can move it and use the lock screw to secure it. The distance from that bearing to the cutter is the most minimal, I can bring it up to the point the shart starts to flare. That added the rigidity. One test run was done before I added it and it was obvious the shaft had vibration and wobble so I immediately added the second bearing. I aligned it to the original bearing on the shaft then soldered it to its carrier.
 

Ledean

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Very innovative job.
Still not sure if I understand it totally.Would appreciate a few more pictures.
Ledean
 

scott.cr

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You're a maniac dude! I love it!! Hahaha...

With a $29 spin index this machine might have been even cheaper and more accurate, but you'd still need to clamp the end of the light opposite the end in the spin index (simple).
 

ddaadd

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I have to ask if your family looks on in bewilderment as you craft your device?

Not understanding your flashlight hobby in the first place, much less the
lengths you are willing to go to pursue your passion?

Pay no attention as they huddle and whisper looking at you, as you have
truly arrived as one of us.....:naughty:

+1 with an "atta boy"

:twothumbs
 

Northern Lights

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You're a maniac dude! I love it!! Hahaha...

With a $29 spin index this machine might have been even cheaper and more accurate, but you'd still need to clamp the end of the light opposite the end in the spin index (simple).
That is reasonably priced. I imagine you are suggesting indexing the light body in the spin index and putting the index into the cross slide vice. I actually was looking at a spin index that was cross slide capable, but it was too pricey.
You obviously realize that the spin index on a cross slide mounted on a lathe bed would be ideal. It would have to be offset to the center head. Depending on how stable you could hold the cutting shaft in the jaws would determine whether you would need the rail that extends through the light. That was the main problem several machine shops had with the concept of turning this project. None could figure how to hold the cutter stable. One agreed with my suggestion of stablizing the cutter by having in on a shaft that went from chuck to a bearing point on the other end of the light. Or you could build additional bearings for the shaft on a rail going through the light if making a cutter in the center of a shaft is too expensive.
Well, that idea is what you see in my "erector set" mill.
I am looking for a used lathe head and bed, not much else is needed, a few used tools shops here have such things very cheap. Before I do that I need to get around to boring a few more bodies for my projects; I am behind schedule with this hobby, you know.
 

Northern Lights

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I have to ask if your family looks on in bewilderment as you craft your device?

Not understanding your flashlight hobby in the first place, much less the
lengths you are willing to go to pursue your passion?

Pay no attention as they huddle and whisper looking at you, as you have
truly arrived as one of us.....:naughty:

+1 with an "atta boy"

:twothumbs
Thank you, but my family is over that by now...
Do you really think that is what they are whispering about?:huh: Oh, My Gosh! I thought they were talking about the weather!
 

scott.cr

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I apologize for the OT question, but what is a spin index jig used for?

A spin index could be used to rotate the tube at precise 120-degree increments. The first flute could be cut arbitrarily, the second and third would be cut 120 and 240 degrees from the first flute respectively.
 

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