jon_slider
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2015
- Messages
- 5,184
L to R, Manker Lad 219c, Lumintop Worm head w 219b, Astrolux M03 219b
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No doubt there will be variations and truth be told unless you know the full part number you can't conclude anything.
But my point was the vast majority of 219Cs in the wild are the mid-CRI.
No doubt there will be variations and truth be told unless you know the full part number you can't conclude anything.
But my point was the vast majority of 219Cs in the wild are the mid-CRI.
interesting topicanyone ever notice high CRI is awful in the fog. No better than CW
I don't want to be the one to bring this up but anyone ever notice high CRI is awful in the fog. No better than CW though am starting to wonder if beam profile isn't a more important factor than tint. Still feel warmer tints help but dang...... high CRI didn't seem to be the ticket for this application. Just rolling it out there.
Generally speaking, I agree completely . I also thank you for the explanation of what 9050 and 8000 means.
I hope someone digs up the numbers for the 3 lights I posted
It helps me a lot to use specific examples. I admit to being very guilty of creating hypotheses based on single samples. Otoh, I have also spent considerable time comparing the 219c beamshots online, so my conclusion that they tend to fall above the BBL, was more than just a wild guess.. I had also spoken to gunga before commenting that I have the impression that 219c tends to tint shift above the BBL, and N219b tends to tint below the BBL. Generally speaking, people will prefer tint below, rather than above, the BBL.
When the 219c first started being mentioned online, I agree it was an 8000, but it is now appearing as a 9050, in lights like the Pineapple and LAD. unless Im mistaken. The 219c was originally intended to play catchup with CREE in the Brightness wars. However, imo, flashlight manufacturers have figured out there is a strong market for 4000k High CRI LEDs.. so they offer Both .. Consumer has a choice, buys both.. Manufacturer happy.
Now to come back around on topic with the title of the thread
Tint Snobs like Nichias better than Crees, because Nichias dont look Green!
interesting topic
having recently purchased 3000k selective Yellow foglight lamps, to replace my 5000k fogs, I have a couple of observations. The 3000k is 20% less bright. The Yellow tends to get "under" the fog, and not bounce back at me as glare as much. Im not sure if thats just because they are dimmer, since Ive not had a lot of fog time yet.
I think your comment about beam profile is definitely part of it. Can you give some specific examples of the lights you tested, and their LEDs and brightness levels?
I have to now point out that after testing my EagleTac D25C Ti 2017 Nichia 219B 5700K last night, I find it of low CRI.
I compared it against my [very] cool white HDS Rotary (for the cool white section), and against my Malkoff NW & McGizmo Haiku XP-G2 (for the neutral/warm white section).
The colours from the D25C seem much more similar to the cool white HDS than they do with the Malkoff or McGizmo. Very disappointed, I must say.
That is just one instance to reiterate that CRI is independent of Color Temperature.
Independant? Or you mean dependant?
I regard the Malkoff as high CRI, and the Haiku XP-G2 as high CRi also, and the D25C is rubbish in comparison. EagleTac state 92CRI, I would strongly disagree.
Independant? Or you mean dependant?
I regard the Malkoff as high CRI, and the Haiku XP-G2 as high CRi also, and the D25C is rubbish in comparison. EagleTac state 92CRI, I would strongly disagree.
You are comparing warm/neutral white to cool white. You are likely noticing the difference in colour temperature more then the CRI and have a preference/bias towards warmer colour temperatures. The emitter used in your Eagletac is the same one used in the Jaxman E2 and has been independently tested at 93CRI. It also has an R9 of 80 which is very high.
Graph courtesy of maukka.
Try comparing it against another cool white light(as close to 5700K as possible) for a better comparison. Use colourful objects with many different colours including red and blue such as cereal boxes for your comparison. You should notice it renders colours more vibrantly compared to a standard cool emitter which will make colours look dull and washed out.
I still mean independent.
Which they are.
An overdriven P60 lamp, say putting out a higher color temperature that it looks very white, is a blackbody radiator putting out 100CRI, correct?
A P60 lamp driven with less current showing around 3000K is still a blackbody radiator giving 100CRI, correct?
Somebody chime in if I am off.
Ok, not tried it with any other cool white, but I will have a go.
I know my HDS has low CRI, and the colours (albeit only greens and browns when I tested it at a golf course last night) from the EagleTac were very similar to the HDS. That's why I assumed it also has low CRI?
Before last night, I have tried it on my kids toys (that have a lot of colours) and the reds certainly do seem vibrant with the EagleTac.
Why did the colours of this Eagletac seems awfully similar to that of the low CRI HDS, when tested out on the green (and browns)?
I just meant that a certain emitter can have high or low CRI but it's CRI value will not depend on how warm or cool the temperature is.
Some think that to achieve high CRI you must have neutral or low color temperature, but clearly some emitters achieve high CRI even while emitting in the cool part of the spectrum.