Once upon a time this was a fun thread.
Maybe Kestrel will come back the fork in it so the poor dead horse can rest in peace.
Maybe Kestrel will come back the fork in it so the poor dead horse can rest in peace.
Once upon a time this was a fun thread.
Maybe Kestrel will come back the fork in it so the poor dead horse can rest in peace.
When they come out with an incan with pwm I can imagine using one while walking in a thunderstorm.
The song "singing in the rain"- the disco version will be playing in my head.
As my progress continues I'll chuckle as everyone in my beam will be flailing about in epileptic siezures.
I see what you are getting at ssandre, but it seems pwm is not something that would be on a list of wants by the author of this thread.
It'd be like the time Richard Petty built a race car then refused to drive it. Why? He replied "man that thing'll kill ya".
Lol, not against PWM discussion per se; in fact it may be a primary aspect of this thread topic - the two regulated incan iterations that I know of both utilize pwm.Once upon a time this was a fun thread.
Maybe Kestrel will come back the fork in it so the poor dead horse can rest in peace.
Posts like this, come to mind. :ironic:That's quite a wild imagination.
the two regulated incan interations that I know of both utilize pwm.
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I have a Lumens Factory 9V 320lm incandescent drop-in. Lumens Factory says it will run for ~40 minutes on a pair of RCR123 batteries. RCR123s are rated at .75 amp-hours when new, so if they can be drained in 40 minutes by an incan bulb then the bulb is consuming an average of 1.125 amps. That doesn't seem like much, but remember that it's running without regulation, so it's actually pulling several amps when the batteries are fully-charged, dropping steadily downward as the batteries drain. The peak amperage is probably closer to 3 amps. That still isn't a significant amount of amperage for short bursts, but to run for more than a couple minutes the current-regulating electronics would need heat-dissipation to avoid overheating. The drop-in occupies the entire head of the light, so there would need to be a second compartment for the current-regulating electronics to sit in, and adequate heat dissipation would be difficult to provide with the electronics sitting right next to a chamber occupied by a white-hot piece of tungsten that's heating the entire body of the light. They would probably be better-positioned in the tailcap. The incan light that I'm using for my example is fitted with a 4-mode PWM tailcap that I pulled from an old Jetbeam LED light, and it's about a half-inch longer than a normal P60-size tailcap to make room for the PWM circuit board and the mode-selector button. I honestly don't know how much larger it would need to be to contain current-regulating electronics that could handle 3 amps for a sustained period of time; the only light I have that burns that much power is a P60-compatible light with an Oveready 1000lm drop-in, and that uses PWM in the megahertz range to regulate power to its 3-LED array. Even using PWM the drop-in is still as big as a normal P60 drop-in; at a guess, current-regulating electronics that could do the same job would probably take up the same amount of space as the entire drop-in does, including the 3-LED array and the TIR optics that focus the LEDs. So for a current-regulated P60-compatible incan light, you'd probably be looking at a light big enough to hold two P60-size drop-ins instead of one, with separate chambers at each end of the battery compartment. I guess that's not a problem if you prefer large flashlights, but I prefer ones that easily clip into my pocket with room to spare.Thanks fyrstormer, first part feels like another death blow, but an example would still help.
Consider that incandescent lightbulbs in your house all "flicker" at 120Hz, because the alternating current power supply oscillates at 60Hz. Power goes one direction through the filament for 1/120th of a second, then stops, then goes back the other way for 1/120th of a second. If you can't see the flickering from incandescent lightbulbs operating on what is effectively 120Hz PWM, then you definitely can't see the flickering from 17,500Hz PWM. But again, you CAN hear 17,500Hz, because that is within the range of human hearing, and that may be causing you discomfort. I have a couple flashlights with audible high-frequency PWM and they are definitely more irritating to use for long periods of time.Second part there... concerning this business about seeing PWM. Whether it is seen is irrelevant. I cannot see 17.5kHz PWM. Using the Lightsaver tailcap (for incan), I generally cannot see the PWM in the lower modes. This is kind of a red herring bit of evidence trying to support the idea that PWM isn't bad. You can't see CO2, so it's not killing you. You can't see that cavity, so it must not be causing you any pain.
No, certainly not. If it did, household lightbulbs wouldn't be able to run on alternating current.So pwm does not mean automatic premature death sentence to the light bulb?
Cool!!!
Not possible, unfortunately. LEDs and incans generate light in fundamentally different ways. An LED generates light the same way a radio antenna generates radio waves; it is effectively broadcasting electromagnetic radiation on a frequency that is pre-tuned by the molecular composition of the emitter. As such, it can be cycled on and off extremely quickly to reduce its power consumption without changing the frequency of the EM radiation it emits when it's powered-on, and the rest of the color spectrum is filled-in by a phosphor layer on top of the emitter. An incandescent bulb, on the other hand, emits light in a wide range of frequencies at once, and the range of frequencies is determined moment-to-moment by the temperature of the filament. ANYTHING that reduces the power consumption of the filament will also reduce its temperature, and thus also change the spectrum of light it emits.It seems many manufacturers have figured out how to throttle back LED's without dramatic tint changes and being an arm chair quarterback kinda figure somebody could do it to the old edison bulb.
...so there would need to be a second compartment for the current-regulating electronics to sit in, and adequate heat dissipation would be difficult to provide with the electronics sitting right next to a chamber occupied by a white-hot piece of tungsten that's heating the entire body of the light. They would probably be better-positioned in the tailcap....
Consider that incandescent lightbulbs in your house all "flicker" at 120Hz, because the alternating current power supply oscillates at 60Hz. Power goes one direction through the filament for 1/120th of a second, then stops, then goes back the other way for 1/120th of a second. If you can't see the flickering from incandescent lightbulbs operating on what is effectively 120Hz PWM, then you definitely can't see the flickering from 17,500Hz PWM. But again, you CAN hear 17,500Hz, because that is within the range of human hearing, and that may be causing you discomfort. I have a couple flashlights with audible high-frequency PWM and they are definitely more irritating to use for long periods of time.
I have an old 6D Incan 'Dyna-Lite' made in OH. (2 actually). It has a slider switch, that when you start sliding, turns the bulb juuuust barely on, and sliding it all the way up gives full brightness, with everything in between. Basically a dimmer switch. ... Is it just resistance in the switch, as you slide it it has a wider contact patch maybe? I wonder if it still pulls the same current when it's dim