I'll have to figure out the manual settings on my moms camera for beamshots, but until I fo, I'll just give my impressions:
1) I ordered super oscars, with the impression from the literature they were 125k lux apiece. The box packaging states 75,000 lux, the pamphlet inside states 125k lux. Not sure what to believe. (However, if mine are in fact the 75k lux models, I intend to additionally purchase and compare them with the 125k lux super oscars. And now, fo shiz'nGiggles, I am considering the Myotek PAR46 led spots posted about by Virgil here <http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?429573-If-all-you-cared-about-was-distance&p=5047982&viewfull=1#post5047982> just because.)
2) The mount is a single stud, the mount has an integrated tab to prevent the bolt head from turning. The two wings that mount the lamps each have a large allen key head bolt. The mount is fairly solid, I would definitely add some sort of additional brscing if you drive on washboard roads regularly, but for typical paved road driving, I would think just keeping an eye on their tightness would be sufficient.
3) The housing is fairly lightweight. Feels like aluminum, but may be some sort of thermoplastic, as I see no machining marks or burrs. There is a vent at the top, and the pigtail exits the rear of the lamps in between the molded/inset allen bolt nuts. The lens covers snap into 4 molded in slots in the housing.
These blow my highbeams out of the water, for sure. Idk about reaching out and touching 1500' away (again, not sure if I ordered a super oscar model that is, in fact only 75k lux, or the 125k lux model), but they provide a much further reach than my high beams, as well as more overall light in front of the vehicle. There is no real super intense hotspot. Up close on a wall, the beam pattern is two overlapping trapezoids, the central, overlapping portion is definitely more intense, and on th road, translates into a very smooth tunnel of light, putting light on the road, as well as above the horizon. Its a lot of light, and smooth, no intense, distracting hotspot. My aiming is rudimentary, I found a parking lot that was dark, and lit up the side of a building, from about 25 yards. I used my headlamps as a reference, blocked one lamp at a time, and moved up/down/left/right in comparison to my headlamps hotspot, did a test drive up a backroad with a long, relatively straight hill. Repeated the process several times until I was satisfied. They're aimed slightly cross-eyed, to give a little more distance "punch" and help lead into turns as well. They're not a ridiculously wide beam, but the extra light is still helpful on wide curves.
I did just a quick and dirty wiring harness, with just a switch for now. I'll be taking a look st the wiring diagrams for the 3rd gen 4runner (mine's a '99) to see if I can use the fog lamp circuit to trigger a relay to light them up with the highbeams, and cut them with the lowbeams.
Now, these are a very cool white LED. I recently tinted my headlamps to selective yellow, a change that I *really* like. Were I the capable, experience modding type, I would be attempting to swap the two LED's with a more neutral white ones. They appear to be Cree XM-l2's. As it stands, if these are lamps I'll be keeping, I will likely tint the lenses with either the same paint as my headlamps, or with either kaptan tape or theater lighting tint film. Durability shouldnt be a huge issue for the tint, as I intend to keep them covered during the day or when I don't wish to use them. But the color temperature is a personal matter. I want less blue, but blue is popular amongst the mass purchasing public, for better or for worse.
I run phillips 9003 xtreme vision +100bulbs, and at idle, the stock wiring (which utilizes a relay from oem) feeds 14.2v to both headlamps, so I'm getting plenty of light, as is. My '99 4runner is sitting pretty with the aid of an old man emu 3" lift, heavy springs and firm valved shocks. A few months after the lift, I had the vehicle in the shop for a timing belt replacement, and asked them to use a beam setter to aim my headlamps. 18 months of carrying tools and jack and jackstands has caused some settling in the rear (my lift retained the stock forward "rake", now the height from hub to fender is even front and rear), and I have only manually "eye balled" the headlamps aim, so, admittedly, I need to correct that.