Any ideas about the Muyshondt Beagle?

[LogicalBeard]

So the flood stays on high, 70lm for level 4 and 5. Does that mean level 4 will have 70 lumens flood and 165 lumens throw for a total of 235lm? Or, does that mean 70 flood and 95 throw?

 

[LogicalBeard]

Is the flood exactly like a mule or very similar? On the U.I. is there mode memory or will it always start in 1 lumen? Any rough guess on throw distance?

 

[Ozythemandias]

I emailed in to Muyshondt regarding the flicker, they said there is no PWM on any mode and the perceived flicker is a result of circuit noise. They've been aware of the issue and production units will not have PWM or flicker. Great news!

LogicalBear: Flood ring is similar to a mule but not exactly. Personally I don't like mules and sold my McGizimo Mule, I love the Beagle flood pattern.

Re throw, I didn't take any measurements yet but I plan on. Judging by eye, it's not as throwy as expected.

 

[PoliceScannerMan]

I emailed in to Muyshondt regarding the flicker, they said there is no PWM on any mode and the perceived flicker is a result of circuit noise. They've been aware of the issue and production units will not have PWM or flicker. Great news!

LogicalBear: Flood ring is similar to a mule but not exactly. Personally I don't like mules and sold my McGizimo Mule, I love the Beagle flood pattern.

Re throw, I didn't take any measurements yet but I plan on. Judging by eye, it's not as throwy as expected.

Very pleased to hear that!!!

 

[LogicalBeard]

Sounds good. I think I'm going to pull the trigger. What finish do you have? I was leaning towards the relic copper. On the measurements he lists the titanium and copper as the same grams/ounces. Are the weights really the same between both the titanium and copper you think? I agree about the UI. I think at least something like a triple click for high and maybe a quadruple click for some sort of voltage/battery check would be awesome. Or how about some sort of variation like, double click for high flood, triple click for high flood + throw?

 

[PoliceScannerMan]

I went turned Ti, the copper has to be heavier. Turned Ti is gorgeous, check out Enrique's instagram pic from yesterday.

 

[jon_slider]

I emailed in to Muyshondt regarding the flicker, they said there is no PWM on any mode and the perceived flicker is a result of circuit noise.

Thank you for taking the time to share what you learn.

Yes, Constant Current Circuit Noise or Ripple is not PWM, its another form of fluctuating brightness. Zebras also use Constant Current with Circuit Noise Ripple, so do EagleTac and Manker.

We can no longer rely on the term NoPWM to mean flat regulated output. In fact, runtime graphs will often reveal wavy output, that a naive user will be unaware of. Our eyes are not that sensitive to brightness changes.

IF the production units do not have circuit noise that would be great to hear. Or you can adopt the popular refrain, "I don't notice in actual use"

I started a thread to collect some of the lights that have Ripple
Its not PWM its Constant Current Circuit Noise Ripple

 

[LogicalBeard]

I grabbed a polished copper one. My only concern is that it might be a little heavy for EDC. :shrug:

 

[xdayv]

I grabbed a polished copper one. My only concern is that it might be a little heavy for EDC. :shrug:

copper is definitely heavy, but you just gotta love how it patina's quickly and... uniquely.

 

[LogicalBeard]

I emailed in to Muyshondt regarding the flicker, they said there is no PWM on any mode and the perceived flicker is a result of circuit noise. They've been aware of the issue and production units will not have PWM or flicker. Great news!

LogicalBear: Flood ring is similar to a mule but not exactly. Personally I don't like mules and sold my McGizimo Mule, I love the Beagle flood pattern.

Re throw, I didn't take any measurements yet but I plan on. Judging by eye, it's not as throwy as expected.

I have a Foursevens Atom AO that doesn't have a parabolic reflector. Is that the same as a mule?

 

[Ozythemandias]

I have a Foursevens Atom AO that doesn't have a parabolic reflector. Is that the same as a mule?

It depends, I believe some of the Atoms have an aspherical lens, in which cash I wouldn't consider it to be a mule.

A mule is simply flashlight without a reflector, the McGizmo Mule being the archetype. The Beagle differs in that the mule emitters are right up against the lens, as opposed to most mules where's there is a short distance between lens and LED. I found the difference to be the perimeter of the beam, on a mule the pattern shows up as a very flat, perfectly round circle, the Beagle flood is more gradual and no sharp distinction.

I'm writing a Beagle review, have to take some beamshots and measurement, I'll let you know when it's complete.

 

[LogicalBeard]

It depends, I believe some of the Atoms have an aspherical lens, in which cash I wouldn't consider it to be a mule.

A mule is simply flashlight without a reflector, the McGizmo Mule being the archetype. The Beagle differs in that the mule emitters are right up against the lens, as opposed to most mules where's there is a short distance between lens and LED. I found the difference to be the perimeter of the beam, on a mule the pattern shows up as a very flat, perfectly round circle, the Beagle flood is more gradual and no sharp distinction.

I'm writing a Beagle review, have to take some beamshots and measurement, I'll let you know when it's complete.

That's exactly what I was wondering. I don't think you could have described it better. I'm looking forward to your review!!

 

[LogicalBeard]

I'm writing a Beagle review, have to take some beamshots and measurement, I'll let you know when it's complete.[/QUOTE]

Hey Ozy, any status update to report on throw numbers or the review? I tried to get an IPx rating out of them along with if they were using Nichia or Cree emitters to no avail. Any guesses on either one of those subjects?

 

[Flash-O-Maniac]

I received my Mk. 1 Turned Titanium Beagle today. I have to say there are a couple of things that are troublesome for me about the light, and the only reason I want to post them here is to find out as people receive their lights, is anyone else having the same perceptions as I am. I am a collector of over 300 flashlights, with many of the high end lights such as McGizmos, Tains, Prometheus, Luters, TNCs, Tranquility Base, 4 other Muyshondts (some also titanium), etc. I always considered Muyshondt lights to be at the upper end if not the pinnacle of quality both in machining and electronics. At least that is what Muyshondt seems to be shouting from the mountain tops with their advertising and the literature that comes with the light.

Sorry for the long intro - now to the issues. I charged the battery that I ordered with the light and took off the tail cap, inserted the battery, and ran the light through its 5 modes. Nice beam combos with the light and pleasant tint. But the reverse clicky seems ultra sensitive. You depress the button till it clicks to turn on the light, then slightly (ever so slightly) press the button to change modes with an audible squeak from the internals of the switch, but even with being somewhat experienced with the other 300 lights I own, I accidentally pressed a hair too far and clicked the light off on several occasions. This seems way too sensitive to needing the button barely pressed in and at least for me resulted in numerous mis presses and turning the light off. More than on any other light I own.

The second issue I noticed is the super easy possibility of cross threading the threads when twisting on the tail cap. On any new light I am super careful to be very ginger with the turning force, and try to be just as super careful to properly angle the tail cap so that cross threading is avoided. I'm very sensitive about messing up threads and have never done it on a light yet. If I notice the slightest possibility of cross threading I immediately back the cap off and restart. But on this light the first time I took the battery out and wanted to wipe down the light I started to put the tail cap on and gave it a few twists while I thought I was holding the cap perfectly square to the body, the cap went on a couple of twists and then seemed like it hit a stop way before it was even a quarter of the way on. I backed the cap off and tried again and was able to properly tighten the tail cap all the way. I took it off again and this time tried being even more careful to properly twist it on without cross threading, and the same thing happened again. While I am able to properly tighten the tail cap most of the time, there are just too many times where as careful as I am to keep everything square and gingerly twist it on, the threads get cross threaded - or so it seems. I thought there was possibly a burr or something on either part of the threads, but I can't see or feel anything, and when it goes on properly there doesn't seem to be any burr scraping, I would assume a burr would be detected with every attempt. And when I look at the threads with a bright light and magnifying glass I don't see anything that could be causing this.

I realize I am not perfect, and there is a possibility that I am just plain not threading the tail cap on properly on the occasions when I have these problems, but like I said I don't have this problem with any other of the high end lights I own. In fact the Prometheus Blue Label light is famous for Jason's unreal smooth threads (I realize the material is aluminum VS Titanium on the Beagle with titanium almost always having more gritty threads) but I don't think I could cross thread that light even if I tried to. Extremely unlikely to cross thread any of my McGizmo lights. Same goes for all of the other high end manufacturers I listed earlier.

I'm really not interested in returning this light because there is the possibility that it is a defective user as opposed to a defective light. But I would be interested in hearing if anybody else has found the same issues as I did and if this disappointed them also.

 

[LogicalBeard]

I received my Mk. 1 Turned Titanium Beagle today. I have to say there are a couple of things that are troublesome for me about the light, and the only reason I want to post them here is to find out as people receive their lights, is anyone else having the same perceptions as I am. I am a collector of over 300 flashlights, with many of the high end lights such as McGizmos, Tains, Prometheus, Luters, TNCs, Tranquility Base, 4 other Muyshondts (some also titanium), etc. I always considered Muyshondt lights to be at the upper end if not the pinnacle of quality both in machining and electronics. At least that is what Muyshondt seems to be shouting from the mountain tops with their advertising and the literature that comes with the light.

Sorry for the long intro - now to the issues. I charged the battery that I ordered with the light and took off the tail cap, inserted the battery, and ran the light through its 5 modes. Nice beam combos with the light and pleasant tint. But the reverse clicky seems ultra sensitive. You depress the button till it clicks to turn on the light, then slightly (ever so slightly) press the button to change modes with an audible squeak from the internals and boot, but even with being somewhat experienced with the other 300 lights I own, I accidentally pressed a hair too far and clicked the light off on several occasions. This seems way too sensitive to needing the button barely pressed in and at least for me resulted in numerous mis presses and turning the light off. More than on any other light I own.

The second issue I noticed is the super easy possibility of cross threading the threads when twisting on the tail cap. On any new light I am super careful to be very ginger with the turning force, and try to be just as super careful to properly angle the tail cap so that cross threading is avoided. I'm very sensitive about messing up threads and have never done it on a light yet. If I notice the slightest possibility of cross threading I immediately back the cap off and restart. But on this light the first time I took the battery out and wanted to wipe down the light I started to put the tail cap on and gave it a few twists while I thought I was holding the cap perfectly square to the body, the cap went on a couple of twists and then seemed like it hit a stop way before it was even a quarter of the way on. I backed the cap off and tried again and was able to properly tighten the tail cap all the way. I took it off again and this time tried being even more careful to properly twist it on without cross threading, and the same thing happened again. While I am able to properly tighten the tail cap most of the time, there are just too many times where as careful as I am to keep everything square and gingerly twist it on, the threads get cross threaded - or so it seems. I thought there was possibly a burr or something on either part of the threads, but I can't see or feel anything, and when it goes on properly there doesn't seem to be any burr scraping, I would assume a burr would be detected with every attempt. And when I look at the threads with a bright light and magnifying glass I don't see anything that could be causing this.

I realize I am not perfect, and there is a possibility that I am just plain not threading the tail cap on properly on the occasions when I have these problems, but like I said I don't have this problem with any other of the high end lights I own. In fact the Prometheus Blue Label light is famous for Jason's unreal smooth threads (I realize the material is aluminum VS Titanium on the Beagle with titanium almost always having more gritty threads) but I don't think I could cross thread that light even if I tried to. Extremely unlikely to cross thread any of my McGizmo lights. Same goes for all of the other high end manufacturers I listed earlier.

I'm really not interested in returning this light because there is the possibility that it is a defective user as opposed to a defective light. But I would be interested in hearing if anybody else has found the same issues as I did and if this disappointed them also.

Sorry to hear about your issues. I have the polished copper version. No audible squeak. The travel on the button seems good to me. However, I have the opposite problem with my switch. I have a very light touch and can press the button so lightly that every once in a while when I press the button the light interrupts/turns off, but doesn't go up a mode and just stays in the same mode/level. I've got my muscle memory trained now to use the correct amount of force. It sounds to me like you are saying the "travel" is out of whack?
The threading is really smooth on my copper. However, it is very hard to know if it is lined up properly when you start to screw it on. So do the threads feel gritty? I make sure I turn it a hair counterclockwise first and then press down a little when I thread it. I don't think I have cross-thread it yet.
I'd be interested to hear other peoples experiences.

 

[Rstype]

I have a titanium beagle (Darkwell to be exact) and don't experience any squeaking on my switch's button. It is I believe not bad when it comes to switching modes. Never experienced shutting it off when trying to switch modes. Just a light press does the trick.

when it came to the tailcap being installed again , I do a quarter turn as well so that it will seat properly in the inner threads. I think the double o-ring( the first one to be exact) throws off the feeling of being able to tell if you catch the threads correctly right away. I know it took a little getting used to for me.Over all though it's been a good light.

 

[murrydan]

I have a 'darkwell' Ti as well, my switch did have a bit of a scrape but it has smoothed out over the past few days.

For me, the light functions well, I'm not a huge fan of reverse clickys but I can live with it. My issue was the finish. The 'darkwell' was grossly misrepresented on Muyshondt's website. Also, my mokuti clip is much more subtle than expected, it is almost lavender instead of the high contrast silver/gold/blue he had on the site.

However, I believe the pros outweigh the cons and this is a decent substitute for those of us that missed out on Don's Lunasols.

 

[TimeOnTarget]

I have the turned Ti.

My switch feels fine with no travel issues. I agree that the double o-ring makes replacing the tail cap feel a bit odd. I am just careful and it threads properly.

I would describe the five perimeter LEDs as Mule like creating a very smooth flood.

It is an interesting, high end light. Is is worth it? I don't know as it is all so subjective.

I have several Convoy host lights from Adventure Sports and PFlexPro that I really enjoy and use routinely. We are so spoiled for choice in this modern first world...

 

[thenikjones]

I have had a prototype (Frosted Ti) since about June. The switch is sensitive but got the feel for it now. Helps if you commit to using the beagle and not bounce around a range of torches.

The tail cap is great - stiff due to O rings but never a hint of cross-threading. Not as smooth to screw as a Haiku or Mule but maybe that is down to the finish, they are not stonewashed?

 

[LogicalBeard]

Does anyone have the capability or inclination to give a rough guess on what throw numbers would be? I don't have a lux meter.