Armytek Dobermann (XP-L HI) review, anyone? Where are reviews on Armytek lights?

[Aldiggi]

So my buddy just got in his DP XP-L HI and his has the gold ring that my PP has.

 

[Aldiggi]

My DP does not have it.

 

[gyzmo2002]

So my buddy just got in his DP XP-L HI and his has the gold ring that my PP has.

Same model, same emitter but not the same beam....I don't know if it is only with Armytek that happen.

 

[Aldiggi]

Same model, same emitter but not the same beam....I don't know if it is only with Armytek that happen.

So true. I don't get it!?!?!?!

 

[gyzmo2002]

I look forward to seeing their new emitter. For now, they have nothing more that interests me. I will see in the future. I hope they improve quality. Not normal to have so much difference for an identical model. The story of my doberman left me with a bitter taste.

 

[Esperologist]

Yeah, our most recent Armytek lights have stamps from 3 (sometimes 4) of their quality control people. I checked some of our older stock (V2.5 and such) and one or two have a stamp on them. Looks like they might be testing every light produced right now to ensure it works. We still have a few stocked from the 'questionable' batches that we tested and they seem to be working... but some customers had trouble a week or two of use in.
I'd like to do a regular usage test of the flashlights by using them... but I don't use my flashlights enough to really test them and my boss doesn't want to risk them getting scratched.
I've also noticed that some of the Dobermann, Barracuda and Predator XP-L HI aren't cool white (vs XM-L2 U2) but aren't neutral white (vs XM-L2 T6)... they seem to be between the two somewhere.
I haven't seen anything like this from Eagletac's XP-L (HI or HD) flashlights.

On a side note, Armytek has always gone with calling their output white (or cool) and warm (instead of neutral).
Now, we got in a Wizard V3 Warm (XP-L Warm) and it appears warm compared to an XM-L2 T6... anyone else gotten an XP-L warm from Armytek and seen this?

 

[CelticCross74]

seems like AT lost control of how to do quality control with a very big uptick in sales/production and is just passing anything. As for ET the XP-L HI drop in module for my T25C2 is dftly warm and its a for real HI emitter. Just got the new ET S200C2 CW XP-L HI and it is as cool as any V5 XP-L HD Ive seen. ET seems to have much better quality control than AT. Currently running 2x16340 Keeppowers in my DP HI and it rocks. What is this golden ring being spoken of? If anything it sounds like a reflection of the copper the emitters are put on...have yet to see any golden rings in my 3 AT 3rd gen lights

 

[gyzmo2002]

I've also noticed that some of the Dobermann, Barracuda and Predator XP-L HI aren't cool white (vs XM-L2 U2) but aren't neutral white (vs XM-L2 T6)... they seem to be between the two somewhere.
I haven't seen anything like this from Eagletac's XP-L (HI or HD) flashlights.

It happened to me with my Doberman Pro v3 XP-L HI. It is neutral. I have a Predator and a Barracuda XP-L HI and they are cw. I expected to receive a cw as the other two.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/402351

Start post 59.

 

[Aldiggi]

seems like AT lost control of how to do quality control with a very big uptick in sales/production and is just passing anything. As for ET the XP-L HI drop in module for my T25C2 is dftly warm and its a for real HI emitter. Just got the new ET S200C2 CW XP-L HI and it is as cool as any V5 XP-L HD Ive seen. ET seems to have much better quality control than AT. Currently running 2x16340 Keeppowers in my DP HI and it rocks. What is this golden ring being spoken of? If anything it sounds like a reflection of the copper the emitters are put on...have yet to see any golden rings in my 3 AT 3rd gen lights

Definitely some sort of reflection but here is a beam shot from my PP

 

[CelticCross74]

interesting beamshot! My PP HI looks just like that just without the ring. Now that I examine my PP closer Im pretty certain its gotta be caused by reflection off the copper(brass?)they use. One could argue your gold ring is the outer most edge of the fat corona.

 

[Aldiggi]

Nonetheless my buddy loves his DP. He is not a flashaholic like us so this is a super impressive light to him.

 

[CelticCross74]

I bet he loves it! I am notorious around my non flashaholic friends for always having what they consider to be a "brighter than the sun" light hidden on me to pull out and light up the dark its hilarious even my first PD35 is so bright to them they cant even look at it. A few folks got sold on a few lights I would produce to turn the dark to near daylight as soon as I turned them on.

Odd my AT's just do not get hot at all. They will go full blast for nearly an hour before the 4 blink signal that the light is down shifting output to lower temperature and at that point they are merely kinda warm. Hmph....

 

[Aldiggi]

I bet he loves it! I am notorious around my non flashaholic friends for always having what they consider to be a "brighter than the sun" light hidden on me to pull out and light up the dark its hilarious even my first PD35 is so bright to them they cant even look at it. A few folks got sold on a few lights I would produce to turn the dark to near daylight as soon as I turned them on.

Odd my AT's just do not get hot at all. They will go full blast for nearly an hour before the 4 blink signal that the light is down shifting output to lower temperature and at that point they are merely kinda warm. Hmph....

I am impressed with AT and I am a big fan of them now. My PP and DP are doing there job great and they look great as well. Looking forward to the new models/versions AT will release this year. Another buddy also ordered the DP so it's impressive in looks and performance to the novice out there so that makes me happy.

The Keeppower 18650's came in today and they fit perfectly into the lights. Picked up the 3500mah version btw.

 

[Aldiggi]

Ok so just to update. Another buddy of mine picked up this light and it has a smooth beam pattern. No RING!!! I have another friend picking one up as well. Let's see how his will look.

 

[gyzmo2002]

The manual for the DP v3 HI is online on Armytek's website. It was about time. The "new" UI takes 5 cycles to enable/desable the strobe and firefly1. Same thing for the Predator and Barracuda.

 

[Aldiggi]

The manual for the DP v3 HI is online on Armytek's website. It was about time. The "new" UI takes 5 cycles to enable/desable the strobe and firefly1. Same thing for the Predator and Barracuda.

Finally!!! Haha. Little by little [emoji106]

 

[D6859]

The manual for the DP v3 HI is online on Armytek's website. It was about time. The "new" UI takes 5 cycles to enable/desable the strobe and firefly1. Same thing for the Predator and Barracuda.

Oh, I just noticed disabling the strobe also disables the firefly mode too. I've kept the strobe disabled so I've thought all the time it only had 4 modes (+ strobe) + max. RTFM, lol

Edit. My version needs only 3 cycles to enable/disable them.

Edit 2. It seems my memory is about 1 month long. See post #22: "Disabling/enabling strobe and moonlight mode works"

 

[gyzmo2002]

Oh, I just noticed disabling the strobe also disables the firefly mode too. I've kept the strobe disabled so I've thought all the time it only had 4 modes (+ strobe) + max. RTFM, lol

Edit. My version needs only 3 cycles to enable/disable them.

Edit 2. It seems my memory is about 1 month long. See post #22: "Disabling/enabling strobe and moonlight mode works"

The 3 cycles is the "old" UI. My PPv3 and BPv2 take 3 cycles but my DP takes 5. They should rename their lights according the version of UI. Ex:?V3A, V3B....many complaints about that. When you buy a flashlight, there is no way of knowing until you try it. What other changes with the new UI? this is confusing. The heat management is also different of my PP...

At least they have their manual now. All my HI came with the wrong one. My Dobermann too...3 cycles in the manual but I found the way at that moment.

 

[Scotterics]

I think that this MAY be my next light....
It seems to have what I want at a price my wife errrrrr errrrrr..... I mean "I" can live with...

You guys that own it already... How "jeans pocket" friendly is it?

Anybody seen any English language video reviews? I haven't seen any for the "Pro" version and only one or 2 for the regular

Quick question, just to make sure I'm reading the manual correctly...
If I turn the light on with the head loosened it starts in whatever mode I shut it off in and if I turn it on with the head tightened it always starts in turbo/high correct?

Also... Is there any indication of "need to change battery" before the battery gets below minimal voltage? For example... My old jetbeam (BA20) won't go into high when the batteries need charged but will work on low for a while so you're not stranded with no light..

Thanks Scott

 

[clemence]

interesting beamshot! My PP HI looks just like that just without the ring. Now that I examine my PP closer Im pretty certain its gotta be caused by reflection off the copper(brass?)they use. One could argue your gold ring is the outer most edge of the fat corona.

This is the culprit, the lower down base reflector part - NOT the metal centering piece....

C-RD Ad - Predator Pro v.3 LE Gold 02 by Clemence Ronald, on Flickr

Most LED have colour shift near their base (with lens or not). I first experience this phenomenon with most of my XML(1 and 2) equipped lights. In XPL HI the colour shift tend to be hard edged, not as gradual as the XML. That's why some pure flood lights like Spark SD500CW/NW and Zebralight (I forget the type) have flat matte gray reflector to remove this. They actually just use the low angle beam (less than 125 degree emission angle), and absorbs the rest to get such a uniform flood beam with no ringy artefacts. The tint usually shift to warmer colour, sometimes greenish. In neutral tint it's less pronounced, in warm tint it's almost invisible. Check my lime stone wall beamshots for the Predator Pro LE v.3 and you can see what I'm talking about.

Kebon200 - Control Shot by Clemence Ronald, on Flickr

Kebon207 - Predator Pro XPLHI CW Main1 by Clemence Ronald, on Flickr

Kebon208 - Predator Pro XPLHI CW Main2 by Clemence Ronald, on Flickr

Kebon209 - Predator Pro XPLHI CW Main3 by Clemence Ronald, on Flickr

Kebon210 - Predator Pro XPLHI CW Max by Clemence Ronald, on Flickr

Kebon213 - Predator Pro XPLHI WW Main1 by Clemence Ronald, on Flickr

Kebon214 - Predator Pro XPLHI WW Main2 by Clemence Ronald, on Flickr

Kebon215 - Predator Pro XPLHI WW Main3 by Clemence Ronald, on Flickr

Kebon216 - Predator Pro XPLHI WW Max by Clemence Ronald, on Flickr

Some ultra narrow large gaggione TIR also eliminate the colour shift by not including the high angle reflection. They use raised TIR about 1mm above the base.

_2270884 by Clemence Ronald, on Flickr

_2270885 by Clemence Ronald, on Flickr

_2270886 by Clemence Ronald, on Flickr

_2270887 by Clemence Ronald, on Flickr

It's easy to remove this unwanted ring by covering/paint the very lower bottom part of the reflector using any flat matte gray/black finish. The other more doable method is to use 1mm raised centering piece (with matte black colour) to block/absorbs most of the lights emitted higher than 150 degree beam angle. The positive thing about this ring is that we can easily check if it's centered or not by looking at the ringy beam .....but only if your FL is CW.