Big Jim (PAR36 Lantern) Hotwire List

[Chrontius]

Never seen the beast, Juggernaut.

I am curious about a different one, though -- what can you fit in the Big Beam model 266?

Would a standard 12v 7Ah SLA work?
Too big or small?
4416 or H7604?

 

[Juggernaut]

Never seen the beast, Juggernaut.

I am curious about a different one, though -- what can you fit in the Big Beam model 266?

Would a standard 12v 7Ah SLA work?
Too big or small?
4416 or H7604?

I have a 7.2 ah SLA hocked up to my avatar light "but that's because it is on the outside and is literally built so that it can be screwed on and off. The BigBeam 266 can not fit the 7-8 AH SLA battery because it is a tad bit to long:shakehead. Anyways I'm pretty sure that the battery holder is divided in the middle to separate the two 6 volt lantern batteries, thus unless you want to cut it out "it's metal" then you would need two separate batteries. "They do sell 4.5 ah 6 volt spring top SLA batteries if you look in the right places." 2. You have to be carful with buying bulbs for the BigBeam models because the current factory bulb holders use a type of metal retaining ring and these will not except all size bulbs "note all Par36s should be the same size but some are a couple of millimeters larger in diameter which actually do not fit inside. "It has happened to me." However some older models have a piece of metal that that fits on the outside that has a screw on it's base that when tightened secures the bulb "these seem to fit all par 36 size bulbs. Well the ones I have tried at least".

 

[Chrontius]

I was thinking of starting with a new lantern, so I don't mind cutting away some hullmetal.

Can you post pictures of how you got the SLA brick attached to your avatar light? Otherwise, I may go for a 266, as I've got a couple 6v SLAbs sitting around gathering dust.

 

[Juggernaut]

I was thinking of starting with a new lantern, so I don't mind cutting away some hullmetal.

Can you post pictures of how you got the SLA brick attached to your avatar light? Otherwise, I may go for a 266, as I've got a couple 6v SLAbs sitting around gathering dust.

30 watt RayOvac

How it's mounted

The overall height of the 7.2ah SLA is short enough, narrow enough but probably to long to fit in the snug bay of a 211 or 266 BigBeam. Make sure to measure the SLA so it is not longer then 2x 6 volt 529

Rarer old style screw type bulb holder. VS. New style metal ring style "where not all bulbs fit".

 

[Juggernaut]

Found it "it's 400 watts not 450: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=2494315

 

[mr.squatch]

Cheapest Q I've found yet. Still painful if a poof, but not fifty bucks painful


http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/landinglites.php

 

[mr.squatch]

I simply must have one of these, have a couple obscure hosts I think would work out nicely. I have a couple questions for those who may know.

Some lighting places list two different 4509's, one listed as "halogen" and one listed as "incandescent" Both are around the same price and stats, curious if one is bigger/badder/better than the other?

I want a pencil beam, I believe the Q is listed at 7x7. Another is listed at 3x3, I may have to get one of those as well. Curious if 7x7 is going to give me the result I am looking for.

I plan to use SLA batteries for now. I have several other types I could put together to lighten it up a bit once I figure out my dream bulb. Curious what needs to be in place to ensure safety and longevity. I know my other spotlights all have inline fuses, if so what size? Also I've read of NTC's which I am not very educated on. Any info about the useage and benefits of such would be greatly appreciated.

i recently sold a bunch of lights, and my heart hurts because of it. This project seems like a pretty cheap and impressive one, I'm pretty excited. Thanks guys for all the good info.

g

 

[Bimmerboy]

Cheapest Q I've found yet. Still painful if a poof, but not fifty bucks painful


http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/landinglites.php

How's about the Martek 4509Q at half the GE price?
Martek claims to be a longtime military supplier. Can anyone vouch for their quality? I've only just begun to research sealed beams, and have no idea.

EDIT: Thanks, Mr. Squatch for not only bumping this thread, but also linking to aircraftspruce, as it somehow, and finally sparked me onto the proper track toward planning my dream hotwire, which will now be based on a PAR-XX platform (and JimmyM X1 regulated).

EDIT 2: Even BIGGER thanks to LCT for starting this thread in the first place, and the helpful spreadsheet! Almost two years later, and it's inspiring the birth of a high-wattage, mini-monster thrower.

Getting excited about this.

 

[mr.squatch]

No problemo Bim, hopefully somebody has a simple explaination of NTC's and buffers for me so I can get mine in the works too

g

 

[JimmyM]

OK. I've found the thread.
An NTC is a poor man's softstarter. Effective and cheap, but not the route I'd take. Personally I like to use PWM. It's super efficient and doesn't waste energy.

Are there any figures for overdrive-ability for the Q4509?
You have 3 options:
1) Use the SLA and be happy with an OK bright light.
2) Use a 13.2V NiMH pack and an NTC to take the edge off a fresh pack.
3) Get a used PWM softstarter from someone.

Of course building a PWM softstarter/regulator isn't all that hard if it doesn't have to be small.

 

[A380]

Well, I'm a totally new to the incan world but this thread has encourage me to start.
By now I have on the way an old style BigBeam and a GE Q4509; hopefully they are going to arrive mext week. I prefered the GE over the Martek lamp becouse we use it at work (but not this part number).
I understand that a softstarter is used to keep down the initial high amps that gets to the lamp, corect?.
As far as I know you get more or less amps depending on the voltage, so couldn't be used a potentiometer to make a sort of softatart?.
Anyway, building a PWM softstarter/regulator could be a nice project (have no idea how to start with). Who could help with it?

 

[JimmyM]

Well, I'm a totally new to the incan world but this thread has encourage me to start.
By now I have on the way an old style BigBeam and a GE Q4509; hopefully they are going to arrive next week. I preferred the GE over the Martek lamp because we use it at work (but not this part number).
I understand that a softstarter is used to keep down the initial high amps that gets to the lamp, correct?.
As far as I know you get more or less amps depending on the voltage, so couldn't be used a potentiometer to make a sort of softatart?.
Anyway, building a PWM softstarter/regulator could be a nice project (have no idea how to start with). Who could help with it?

There are a lot of ways to build a soft start circuit. I prefer PWM, but there's a guy that uses a linear method that employs an FET whose gate is controlled by an resistor and capacitor to slow down its turn on. The FET takes a blast of heat, but it can take it, so he says.
There's already a lot of threads regarding soft-starters and PWM. Do a search for them. Read them all and you'll see why a potentiometer won't work. Too much power. It would be incinerated.
These lights are not all that powerful. generally ~10A or less for the 100W models. So a linear FET or PWM should work fine. Your voltages are quite reasonable, so your selection of components is rather large. I've already got several projects in the works already so I can't take on another. I just built a regulator for a guy with a 400W 36V light that fits in a KIU socket base. An then there's the JM-PhD-X1 I'm working on.

 

[mr.squatch]

Thanks for the info Jimmy. I think I'll do the nimh pack like you suggested. It'll just add quite a bit to the budget lol. Problem with the search function here is that it won't find 3 letter words like PWM and NTC I'll keep digging and see what I can find.

g

 

[A380]

Thanks for your answer JimmyM.
I've been looking through google and found this page http://www.ametherm.com/ntc-thermistor-probes/what_is_an_ntc_thermistor.htm with interesting information about NTC. If you click on top of the page "inrush current limiters" there is also a FAQ about this.
In few words it seems this component has a higher resistance when cold, so less current to the lamp. As it heats up goes it down. So it's a sort of cheap softstarter. Anyway, after using it, it have to cool down to have the performance of a soft-start.
Don't know yet if I'm going to use NiMh or IMR cells (depends on the space I have in the lantern) but I think a NiMh pack would be cheaper.

 

[JimmyM]

Thanks for the info Jimmy. I think I'll do the nimh pack like you suggested. It'll just add quite a bit to the budget lol. Problem with the search function here is that it won't find 3 letter words like PWM and NTC I'll keep digging and see what I can find.

g

Use the google search function here at CPF. It will allow 3 letter searches.

 

[Raoul_Duke]

I'm Glad this thread got bumped as I plan to use FiveMega's 4.5" Par 36 Mag head with one of JimmyM's Fantastic Regulators, and was wondering about different lamps.

I know it will end up looking like a crazy big Mag ( I'll probably use a 6D), but I love the Idea of a far reaching pencil beam...so it seems like Good Fun

I had basically Googled all I can on these, and there isn't too much info..at least not on overdriving, but FiveMega has hit the 4509 with 4 x IMR cells, so I'm guessing 16.4V peak ( My IMRs usually settle to 4.1V fairly soon after charging,) and I guess under load they drop quite quick also...So I was wondering what to set the regulator at So any V lamp readings taken on these would be good to hear.

I had read, and thought of getting the Q4509, as the extra Lamp life and increased rated output was appealing, but I guess it pops easier, and I do wonder if an overdriven 4509 is better than a Q4509 driven at spec, as it seems much higher and

...but also wanted to discuss some of the beam characteristics of the Par 36 lamps..4509, and lower wattage lamps.

I can see me doing all kinds of fun stuff like 6V lamps on 2D mags etc.

I could look at the 24V lamps, but will stick to the 100W for now, unless there is a 150W out there. ( but cant find one in the ~12V range)

So what are some of the better or prefered Par-36's, with regards to nice beams, A nice pencil beam seems fun...it would be good to have it quite far reacing so I think a realy fine spot may be good/ fun, although If I can have reach and a bit of spill it wouldnt be too bad.

Also is there a big variation on different manufacturers of the same lamp Numbers I have seen dotted about the web?

I'm in the UK I can find the 4509 here but seem to be two different types of the 4509, the one here is cheaper than this one.
What does the 'X' stand for with the slightly more expensive one?

 

[Chrontius]

I found a schematic for the capacitor/resistor/FET based soft start circuit, which I think I will share here for the convenience of the forums:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3299403&postcount=8

 

[JimmyM]

He shows the use of the 3206 FET. But if you're never going to exceed 24V, then you can use the IRF1324. It has lower resistance and higher current carrying capability. However, either, as well as MANY MANY others will work too.

 

[JimmyM]

I'm Glad this thread got bumped as I plan to use FiveMega's 4.5" Par 36 Mag head with one of JimmyM's Fantastic Regulators, and was wondering about different lamps.

That thing looks NUTS! Nothing says "This thing means business" like a 4.5" head on a 6D. Of course you could go comical and use a few extenders too.

Regarding the regulator position. You don't *need* to put it under a KIU base. I'm not sure how hot it will get in there, but the KIU base will help protect it from radiant heat.
I imagine the Q4509 has less overhead because it's a quartz lamp and inherently runs hotter anyway.
In the first page of this htread I believe there's a chart with beam angle, lumens, etc.

 

[A380]

I want to thanks all poeple who post in this thread lovecpf
Finally I did it with a Q4509. No regulator, no NTC.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/279779