COAST Focusing LED Lenser.. w/pics

[FlashCrazy]

Hey FlashCrazy:

Just wondering... earlier in this thread you were talking about getting a SSC P4 into your Coast. Did that ever happen? That will make a real difference when you put it up against the D-Mini.

Yep, sure did! Plus I've sold quite a few with that mod. Here's the thread: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/157634&page=1


The 123 mod should be interesting, but you're gonna get less runtime. On AAA's, the SSC modded Coast pulls 1000 mA. On a RCR123, I'd expect 35-40 min runtime. On NiMH AAA's, I'm getting right at an hour. You should get an independent channel NiMH charger. I'm using a Titanium TG-2800. You can throw anywhere from 1 to 4 batteries on it, all different states of charge if that's the case, no problem. It charges and terminates each cell independently. No more trying to match cells before putting them on the charger. It (or something like it) is the perfect match for any light using 3 cells.

 

[soffiler]

Yeah, if I was going to stick with NiMH I would definitely get an independent channel charger. But, for me personally 1) I like the CR123A format and already carry spares for EDC's P1D-CE and Pelican M1; 2) my Coast gets used a bit less freqently and I don't like dealing with the self-discharge of NiMH (but, I guess, eneloops would take care of that); and 3) I have a strong preference for a regulated light over a DD.

Not to mention that my planned mod will be a self-contained drop-in with sleeve, CR123A, and driver, so I will still have the original 3xAAA carrier that I can use whenever I want, with whatever AAA I want. BTW, ever try L92's? I did, briefly, once: 1200ma. That was the original Lux.

 

[FlashCrazy]

Sounds neat, you'll have to keep us posted! I like regulated lights too, but from what I've observed, using NiMH batteries gives you a really flat discharge curve...semi-regulated I guess one could say. But full regulation can't be beat! I've never tried L92's...if I did, I didn't know...lol. What are L92's?

 

[soffiler]

L92's are primary lithium AAA's which run about 1.7 volts when very fresh, but pull down pretty quick to 1.5V so they are normally considered a direct drop-in replacement for alkaline. They have a reasonably flat discharge curve, not quite like NiMH but way better than alky. They can withstand pretty large drain rates, they store substantially more energy than alky, and they have the same shelf-life and cold-temp properties that help make the 3-volt primary Li chemistry popular. Downside: AFAIK the Chinese haven't started producing them yet, Energizer brand is the only game in town, and therefore they cost about $8 for a 4-pack almost anywhere you find them. They are pretty common; I see them at Home Depot and Lowe's, and probably Wal-Mart (but I never set foot in that place), Target, etc etc.

I run my SMJLED-modded Soli on an L92, and my wife's AAA-P.

 

[FlashCrazy]

Ahh ok, I know the AAA lithium primaries. I haven't tested the modded Coast with them, though. I'll have to pick some up and do some current testing, to see what it'll run the LED at. I was at Lighthound.com earlier today and did notice that they have Chinese lithium primaries. I think it was the AA size, not sure if they have the AAA's.

 

[soffiler]

FlashCrazy-thanks for the tip on Lighthound. I honestly hadn't seen any Chinese 1.5V Li before now. They've got AAA:

http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2191

 

[VidPro]

Weird, at first i couldnt get the head off with strap wrench, then left it outside overnight, and it poped right off without a strap wrench, i think it might have had something to do with moisture in the air?

so i gotta get this thing apart further than normal, to get rid of that nasty curcuit

so here is a continuance of the dissasembly. (captions below)

the rest of the dissasembly of the head, i pointed out which part is rubber, the insert that holds the lens in and the rubber band there is plastic.
notice how in this model there is the HOLES for light to go out, but they are BLOCKED? that is rather strange for the coasts?


also on this pic of the lens, you can see what might look like cracks or aberations in the lens, and its the clip off point from the Mold, not a crack or aberation. so it looks like it would be normal for every lens to have a small section that looks different.

i couldnt put in one LONG picture, so the long picture is done in stages, that is the head module

then these last 2 parts are the ones that do the twising of the head up and down.

see the head stationary locks down into the battery tube, then the piece above it there, is what moves down over the battery tube, changing the distance to the lens.

i think you can see where all the orings are , its just that band of rubber on the front that might have looked like plastic instead of a seal.

 

[VidPro]

stuffing a 18650 in poses 3 visable problems

even if the curcuit was evacuated out of the head, without some tailspace, its not going to fit, must get into the tail cap.

putting a 18650 in there without altering the contact point of the battery, would short things out quickly.
at the least raising of the center contact point would be required.

and just in case there isnt ENOUGH problems with getting a real battery in the thing, you can see that the backside also would need something removed, or a insulation ring added or something, as this too would make undesirable contact. OR could be used as one of them 2 level things by unscrewing the end.
it is obvious if i am going to get anywhere, and aquire SPACE for real battery juice, i am going to have to get into the tailcap.

 

[VidPro]

first i go back one, and show you the mold cut aberation that is on the lens, hopefully you can see it in this pic.

you find something like this on all of them plastic optics, i dont think its a big deal, just showing it , so if you wonder what that is

 

[VidPro]

ok now the bloody tailcap, after bending 2 tools, 2 rivet nails, and 2 pannelling nails, if finally drilled the holes out further on in this brass like stuff, and shoved 2 drill bits in.
then THAT didnt work, so i heated it up with the heat gun.
the glue WAS effected by the heat gun even though the glue is rather dry.

and of course there is ample size in there

for the 18650 in the base

behind that huge lunk of a switch , there is the actual electronic switch on the right, looks like the same 12mm round one used in the other coast models.
there is 3 layers of "spring pressure" in this setup, the switches own spring, then a spring between the 2 that insures retraction of the huge metal plunger, and the Seal junk that was springy and pushes the tab back also. its no wonder why switch pressure is so high on this model.

and the massive plunger (the back button) covered with some sort of sealant with an o-ring tossed in the side?? this was strange.

and here is why that end part might not be "dunkable" this seal around the switch was already broken, and i only used it 3 times or so myself, minus how many times it was used in the store.
i MIGHT have damaged this when removing it, indeed, but i am pretty sure this was open before i got in there.


sorry about the pics, using the camera and the Hammera at the same time, not so easy.

here is a Panorama of the whole thing now, the curcuit is still not dissasembled , some O-rings are not shown in the panorama as they had to be removed to use the heat gun.
http://home.comcast.net/~welkm/P1040256.JPG

 

[VidPro]

ok i hook the HEAD itself up to the power supply, and mess around with some voltages, and it shows that there aint no curcuit, the thing is about as regulated as a RAW led, which might be exactally what i want.

ok so , trying to figure out how they put the head board onto the heat sink, i did more stupid things trying to remove it, then finnaly just grabbed the green connection board with needle nose pliers and pop.

there it is, look at that amasing regulation then realise how this thing gets SOOO bright and is soo efficient , cause there is no losses.

there is NOT enough room in the head part for the 18650 to move in that direction.

 

[FlashCrazy]

Vidpro, good job getting it completely apart! I know that tail switch is pretty difficult. As you found out, there's no circuit at all, just direct drive. With the 18650, you'll need a resistor to keep the current in check. Good luck with the mod, and keep us posted...should give you great runtime!

Thanks for posting all the pics too! That's a lot of work...

 

[VidPro]

well now i am about stuck.

this here on1-off-on2-off switch for 2 levels fits into

that hole, where the old switch was, with just enough room for the battery too.

but then i am stuck good, Luckily i dont have to hand this back to anybody because its getting less pretty all the time.

first minor issue
the metal body of the light does not pass power, so my normal method of getting the power to the head through the body is messed up, all the annodising is stopping conduction. and removing the annodising will make the threads a bit more loose.

second issue
the 2 legs of the switch will go to 2 different resisters , to provide the 2 levels, but then i gotta get the power from there To the head, and everything is impossible to solder aluminum :-(

3rd issue
the switch kinda needs to be adhered to something, and there is mabey 1mm of avialable space, some of the plunger can be removed, giving me a leeway of 3mm, but no real room for a spring or anything, just a direct connect of the center wire of the switch to the bottom of the battery.

i can solution the connection of the LED to the aluminum heat sink by using a small screw into the holes on the top of the sink, thats one down.

but how to get the resisters connected to the base thing around the switch?

 

[chiphead]

I'll say one thing about COAST, the make the best 3/AAA holder I've seen to date.

chiphead /w three Coast units

 

[VidPro]

i think i found the right aspherical lens for it

 

[soffiler]

the rest of the dissasembly of the head, i pointed out which part is rubber, the insert that holds the lens in and the rubber band there is plastic.
notice how in this model there is the HOLES for light to go out, but they are BLOCKED? that is rather strange for the coasts?

My Coast Focusing LED Lenser does not have that rubber part. On mine, the threaded plastic part is all that holds the lens in.

then these last 2 parts are the ones that do the twising of the head up and down.

see the head stationary locks down into the battery tube, then the piece above it there, is what moves down over the battery tube, changing the distance to the lens.

This is also different from mine. On mine, just the top part of the head (the part with the yellow triangle sticker on it) moves to change focus.

I wonder if the differences are older vs. newer models, or different models for different markets, or what? I got mine at Lowe's Home Improvement and the part number on the package said "TT7438CP"

 

[VidPro]

On mine, just the top part of the head (the part with the yellow triangle sticker on it) moves to change focus.

right, that is what i was trying to say, the assembly that holds the lens rotates, i should have included the whole lens assmebly.

i got mine at lowes, and it shows the exact same part number.

the rubber gromet thing that seals around the optics, is common to coast lights, like the other smaller ones i have dissasembled, it is what waterproofs the face.
you MIGHT not notice it as a seperated part, as it blends in very well with the plastic part, and hides BEHIND the plastic part. you have to remove that plastic threaded thing to even see it.

 

[VidPro]

On Cree vrses Lux or Seul for this:
well stuffing a CREE behind that optic they put in there, just doesnt work like a high-dome luxIII does, or probably like a seul led would. the Grid pattern on the cree emitter really shows up strongly.

so although the original lens offers much more focusing from the small ammount of movement change that occurs, the aspherical lens that works well with the cree, does not change focus as much , but then it doesnt get a doughnut hole as bad either. and its about 3 times smaller a spot.

its a good thing they are choosing to put in soeul leds and used lux leds, because (unlike what i would have thought) the cree does not make so good a beam pattern.

the cree doesnt seem to go up into the original lens as FAR either, the cree base and all seems to be in the way.

 

[Gannz]

Anyone else think it would look cool to brush the front seal w/ some GITD paint?... or maybe a strip of GITD tape would hold up better on the rubber and give an even tighter seal.

 

[VidPro]

i just lined the black plastic with GITD vinyl sheet, and put gitd on the base of the head, works fine, and more light then sneaks foreward, instead of dissapearing into a black tube thing.