Compare and Contrast the Sofirn C01 to the Fenix E01 and similar flashlights

[jon_slider]

Has anyone posted a direct run time test between all three lights?

runtime on sublumen levels is not what I do with an Eneloop, I swap cells when the light goes dim
on Normal brightness

this Sofirn runtime test says 11 hours on normal brightness (sun mode)
That is 15% less than the Fenix E01.
The Sofirn C01 15% less runtime is a trade for 46% Higher CRI from the Yuji.
https://zeroair.org/2019/01/18/sofirn-c01-single-mode-yuji-high-cri-aaa-flashlight-review/

if runtime included sublumen levels, in a disaster prep scenario
this runtime report says 33 hours for the Sofirn
https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/a0lhgu/nld_sofirn_c01_new_blf_sepcial_light_production/


Fenix runtime tests,
12-13 hours on sun mode
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-E01-Impressive-Runtime&p=3424423#post3424423

12-13 hours on Sun-mode, ~8 hours on moon-mode

and
53 hours?, including sublumen levels (moonlight, does not apply to Eneloop)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?279123-Fenix-E01-Impressive-Runtime

 

[this_is_nascar]

Now that these C01s are into more people's hands, it's time to ask the tough, million dollar question. In a real, emergency situation, with only 1 light in your posession, what real advantage(s) if any would these Sofirn's have over the Fenix and it's more efficient LED? If the Sofirn's driver is supposed to be just like Fenix's, that would technically make the E01 brighter and therefore more useable for longer.

Which light would you all choose of these 3 and why?

I'll definitely find out and post my thoughts in the upcoming weeks. I ordered a couple the other day, so I guess I'll have them in a month or so, then we'll go from there.

 

[this_is_nascar]

The Sofirn C01 advantages over the Fenix E01, include High CRI, Hat friendly pocket clip, magnet and tritium options

If the Fenix is more efficient, its because it is Low CRI.
Efficiency favors low cri and high color temperature
I do not prioritize efficiency, I prioritize CRI, that is what the Yuji LED is all about

so, I would not choose a Stock Fenix E01 at all, it is not in the same CRI league.
The other Yuji lights are the McGizmo Sapphire, for people that like titanium, and dont mind paying USA manufactured prices (no hatclip though). And the Vinh Fenix E01 w Yuji LED, the same LED as the Sofirn, but in a Fenix, if someone wants that brand, for whatever reason.

I choose the 5600k Sofirn C01, because CRI is high priority to me, and I wanted to experience a High CRI Cool White (I consider 5600k Cool). If you want to gift me a Sapphire, I would like it to be the cool Yuji please.

Im very impressed with the Yuji LEDs.
I never carry my Fenix E01 because of the blue hotspot and low CRI.. Im a snob


I think these High CRI Yuji lights are especially good for learning about CRI and color temperature, and what ambient light favors 3200 vs 5600.

Personally, I prefer the almost no hotspot of the Black run.
l-r 3200k, 5600k, Fenix E01

The Red and Blue have large hotspots that I did not want, I may have to rough up the reflector cone..

Beamwise, the McGizmo has the nicer beam imo

I find a no hotspot beam extremely useful as a arms reach hatlamp

the McGizmo uses no reflector, preserving the Aspheric beam built into the Yuji LED

Like you said, it all comes down to wants and requirements. I carry my E01 as a potential life saving tool. I stake my life on it every time it's with me, which is always.

In an emergency situation, I could care less about a slightly blue tint or whether or not colored is rendered properly 100%.

My goal in purchasing a C01 is to be able to better offer an opinion based on ownership, not from solely reading others opinions.

 

[this_is_nascar]

Has anyone posted a direct run time test between all three lights? Don't mistake brghtness for run time. Is the underlying LED nearly identical and the increased lumen(s) from the nichia from converting less phosofor to different colors? Is the Yuji actually superior working down to a lower voltage and despite losing a lumen to the nichia, talking a lumen here or there, actually run longer?

My two main areas of focus are going to be overall runtime and minimal voltage required to fire. They are my major criteria for an EDC pocket light.

 

[Grijon]

In a real, emergency situation, with only 1 light in your posession, what real advantage(s) if any would these Sofirn's have over the Fenix and it's more efficient LED?

I have carried the E01 and replaced it with an E05. If something happens to the E05 I plan for the C01 to replace it on my keychain, while I have no intention of ever carrying an E01 again. So the real advantage of the Sofirn is that I would have it with me.

If you are happy carrying an E01 as your only light, I don't believe that the Sofirn would have any real advantage in a real, emergency situation; that you have a light at all would eclipse any differences between which of these particular lights you have in your hand.

Which light would you all choose of these 3 and why?

For EDC, if I had to choose just one of these three, it would be the C01 5600k. It has real, useable light with a nice beam shape and high CRI.
The warm tint is my favorite and is absolutely perfect for navigating my house at night in the dark, but I think its mule-like beam would be less useful outside of the house.
The E01 is a legendary light that has in fact helped shape the industry today, but in my opinion it has been utterly surpassed by the C01 if the C01 shows itself to be as tough as the E01, which only time will tell.

 

[Hondo]

runtime on sublumen levels is not what I do with an Eneloop, I swap cells when the light goes dim
on Normal brightness

this Sofirn runtime test says 11 hours on normal brightness (sun mode)
That is 15% less than the Fenix E01.
The Sofirn C01 15% less runtime is a trade for 46% Higher CRI from the Yuji.
https://zeroair.org/2019/01/18/sofirn-c01-single-mode-yuji-high-cri-aaa-flashlight-review/

if runtime included sublumen levels, in a disaster prep scenario
this runtime report says 33 hours for the Sofirn
https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/a0lhgu/nld_sofirn_c01_new_blf_sepcial_light_production/


Fenix runtime tests,
12-13 hours on sun mode
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-E01-Impressive-Runtime&p=3424423#post3424423

and
53 hours?, including sublumen levels (moonlight, does not apply to Eneloop)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?279123-Fenix-E01-Impressive-Runtime

Careful, that test was from 2010. I have a couple of E01's from the early production that have fairly low power consumption, like the C01, at < 100 mA. But I got another a couple of years or more later, and found that the current draw at the battery had roughly doubled. Was not happy about that change. It was, of course, brighter, but not worth the cost IMO.

 

[jon_slider]

Careful, that test was from 2010. I have a couple of E01's from the early production that have fairly low power consumption, like the C01, at < 100 mA. But I got another a couple of years or more later, and found that the current draw at the battery had roughly doubled. Was not happy about that change. It was, of course, brighter, but not worth the cost IMO.

thanks!
I think there may be some power ratings for the C01 and Fenix E01 that would make for relevant comparisons, but I did not research that detail, maybe someone else will take the time.

I certainly do not consider an AAA light running on moonlight mode relevant to my survival, so I leave that for others to interpret.

 

[defloyd77]

I'll definitely find out and post my thoughts in the upcoming weeks. I ordered a couple the other day, so I guess I'll have them in a month or so, then we'll go from there.

My two main areas of focus are going to be overall runtime and minimal voltage required to fire. They are my major criteria for an EDC pocket light.

Awesome! I really look forward to your findings.


As for my answer to my own question, well I'm trying to think of different, admittedly highly unlikely situations where I would only have 1 light source and nothing else. Why I don't know, just a fun mental exercise I guess.

I'm picturing being trapped in a cave, snowed in in some cabin with no power. You won't be seeing daylight for who knows how long. Maybe there's some batteries carelessly tossed out here or there.You'll need all the light you can get from each battery.

 

[staticx57]

Interesting finds jon. I am interested in a sure by side apples to apples. Same two cells at the same state of charge or the same NiMH fully charged. Interesting comments that the drive currents of earlier E01s are different. Does that make them more valuable and special thanks late rubs?

 

[Crazyeddiethefirst]

I now have all 4 of my C01's and the 3 Fenix E01's I could easily locate. As I pondered the questions asked above I came to a realization that over the last few years I have stopped using any light that was not at least moderately hi CRI. I was a Chief Flight Nurse for years, and details like. Persons skin, lips or nailbeds turning blue is critical. I remember training a new Flight Nurse who was convinced a patient was dying despite all the equipment on board giving a very different opinion. I asked if she wanted to see a miracle and suggested she turn off the mag lite and use my hi CRI light instead. Miraculously the blue lips and skin suddenly were pink and looking healthier than could be imagined. The point hit home pretty well & I never saw her without a high CRI light after that.
Anyway, I'm my "emergency scenario" I am more concerned with actual appearance that a cold blue tint light that can stay on a couple of hours longer. And the life I am trying to save is yours. If your skin is cherry red from carbon monoxide poisoning, or blue from a lack of oxygen, I need to know. If your liver is failing I need to see the yellow tint to your skin or the color of your sclera. I also value having a tritium vial to find the light if it is dropped and the magnet to hold it in place. I guess when I weigh the things that matter most "to me" the Sofirn C01 has the win...I can happily trade a longer run time for the accuracy provided A hi CRI Fuji....

 

[defloyd77]

I now have all 4 of my C01's and the 3 Fenix E01's I could easily locate. As I pondered the questions asked above I came to a realization that over the last few years I have stopped using any light that was not at least moderately hi CRI. I was a Chief Flight Nurse for years, and details like. Persons skin, lips or nailbeds turning blue is critical. I remember training a new Flight Nurse who was convinced a patient was dying despite all the equipment on board giving a very different opinion. I asked if she wanted to see a miracle and suggested she turn off the mag lite and use my hi CRI light instead. Miraculously the blue lips and skin suddenly were pink and looking healthier than could be imagined. The point hit home pretty well & I never saw her without a high CRI light after that.
Anyway, I'm my "emergency scenario" I am more concerned with actual appearance that a cold blue tint light that can stay on a couple of hours longer. And the life I am trying to save is yours. If your skin is cherry red from carbon monoxide poisoning, or blue from a lack of oxygen, I need to know. If your liver is failing I need to see the yellow tint to your skin or the color of your sclera. I also value having a tritium vial to find the light if it is dropped and the magnet to hold it in place. I guess when I weigh the things that matter most "to me" the Sofirn C01 has the win...I can happily trade a longer run time for the accuracy provided A hi CRI Fuji....

Excellent post with some great points. So which is your weapon of choice 3200K or 5600K?

 

[PoliceScannerMan]

Anyone have a good source for a magnet that fits this light?

 

[Crazyeddiethefirst]

I have purchased strong Neodymium magnets from both Banggood & GearBest for very reasonable prices. HKE also has a different magnetic ring that works great for larger lights too(just FYI, I realize this is outside the scope of your original question)...

 

[jon_slider]

over the last few years I have stopped using any light that was not at least moderately hi CRI. I was a Chief Flight Nurse for years, and details like. Persons skin, lips or nailbeds turning blue is critical. I remember training a new Flight Nurse who was convinced a patient was dying despite all the equipment on board giving a very different opinion. I asked if she wanted to see a miracle and suggested she turn off the mag lite [LED] and use my hi CRI light instead. Miraculously the blue lips and skin suddenly were pink and looking healthier than could be imagined. The point hit home pretty well & I never saw her without a high CRI light after that.
...
I'm my "emergency scenario" I am more concerned with actual appearance that a cold blue tint light that can stay on a couple of hours longer. And the life I am trying to save is yours. If your skin is cherry red from carbon monoxide poisoning, or blue from a lack of oxygen, I need to know. If your liver is failing I need to see the yellow tint to your skin or the color of your sclera.
...
I can happily trade a longer run time for the accuracy provided A hi CRI Yuji....

That is by FAR the most eloquent illustration I have ever seen, to highlight the importance of High CRI.

I also no longer use Low CRI lights, and Im not even a Chief Flight Nurse

 

[sc00ts19]

I'm currently using nimh cells but want to run alkalines in these lights. However, I don't want to ruin them with bursting/leaking cells. If the light is used daily, how much risk is there of cells leaking? If a cell did leak, how hard would it be to clean up the corrosion? I've read about using white vinegar and elbow grease but have never tried it myself.

 

[LED_Power_Forums]

I'm currently using nimh cells but want to run alkalines in these lights. However, I don't want to ruin them with bursting/leaking cells. If the light is used daily, how much risk is there of cells leaking? If a cell did leak, how hard would it be to clean up the corrosion? I've read about using white vinegar and elbow grease but have never tried it myself.

Best just not to use it. It is not worth the risk. If you still want to use it, better don't leave it in there for long. If it ever leaked then you will be having a "good" time cleaning it. There was one instance where the liquid of the alkaleak drop on to the floor and I clean it with water quickly but to no avail. Even sandpaper couldn't fully sand it off. There bound to be some stain left no matter how you clean it, be it brute force or acidic cleaning agent.

 

[Crazyeddiethefirst]

I'm currently using nimh cells but want to run alkalines in these lights. However, I don't want to ruin them with bursting/leaking cells. If the light is used daily, how much risk is there of cells leaking? If a cell did leak, how hard would it be to clean up the corrosion? I've read about using white vinegar and elbow grease but have never tried it myself.

Almost all Alkaline cells leaks-many within weeks of sale without ever being used. It does not matter if the light is used daily, weekly or sits for months-they all leak. At least if it is in a daily user you might catch it before it "welds" the light closed there it is impossible to open. After you lose a couple lights that you really, really like, you may come to the realization that is is just not worth it. I use NIMH in a lot of my smaller lights, but if I really feel the 1.2 v is not adequate I use Energizer L91/L92 Lithium primaries. Until a few weeks ago I had never heard of an L91 leak-there is a thread from someone who had multiple cell failures and asked if anyone else ever had. Almost all the replies matched my experience-not a single leak. As it turned out those cells were purchased in bulk, and suspect to be fakes. Since the Lithium primaries came out I have used them in temperatures from well below freezing to 123 F and never had a problem. What is the primary reason for wanting to use Alkalines?
I knew one guy whose employer provided unlimited free alkaline cells so that was all he used. When his beloved Preon Revo was ruined by one and they had were no longer being made, he realized even free can be expensive...

 

[xevious]

Note the Sofirn C01 hanger hole is centered, so the light hangs straight. The E01 does not hang straight, since the keyring hole is not centered. Its a little hard to show in a photo, but this will give some idea

Thanks for this photo -- very interesting. I like the more intelligent design of the C01 tail cap, such as the slot for a trit vial, plus a socket for a magnet. I saw someone post that the round socket is 5 mm in diameter -- maybe 2 mm in depth? Also, is the trit vial slot 6mm in length?

EDIT: Found out in the main Sofirn C01 topic it's 3mm in depth.

 

[jon_slider]

Interesting finds jon. I am interested in a sure by side apples to apples. Same two cells at the same state of charge or the same NiMH fully charged. Interesting comments that the drive currents of earlier E01s are different. Does that make them more valuable and special thanks late rubs?

More runtime tests of other aaa lights, but i cant tell if they are apples or oranges

I did another run time test, this time with alkaleak batteries. One light was the long run standby my Manker E01, and the other my E02. They both got cells that were a few years old and measuring 1.58V. Both lights were measuring about 4mA of current draw from the cells at the beginning of the tes.

The E02 lasted 8 days, 6 hours plus before it gave up. It ran regulated the whole time, and was at level 7 in moonlight mode. It died somewhere in the next 8 hours. The last time I measured the battery it was at 0.86V. 198 hrs of observed performance off an older alkileak. Not bad.

The E01 went well beyond. It is not regulated in moonlight mode, but ran 12 days plus, nearly 300 hours. Last time I measured the cell before it quit was about 0.9V.

And another data point, while likely not a super long run time, the Sofirn C01 is currently running off a cell measuring less than 0.6V and putting out as much light as either Manker above. We'll see if that one is still running in the morning.

 

[sc00ts19]

Best just not to use it. It is not worth the risk. If you still want to use it, better don't leave it in there for long. If it ever leaked then you will be having a "good" time cleaning it. There was one instance where the liquid of the alkaleak drop on to the floor and I clean it with water quickly but to no avail. Even sandpaper couldn't fully sand it off. There bound to be some stain left no matter how you clean it, be it brute force or acidic cleaning agent.

Agreed. These are great little lights, I'd hate to lose one to something completely preventable.