Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

[Nano-Oil.com]

I did notice discoloration with Nyogel. I saw it as soon as I got my L2 from SF, and again with my M4, M6, and E2D. They all have filthy discoloration out of the box. I want to emphasize again that the repeated discoloration after cleaning and reapplication of Nyogel was primarily noticed with soft aluminum, and especially the tailcap where the spring tension would tend to force metal on metal abrasion.


I don't believe I said that, or meant to imply it. I was trying to draw a distinction between the Nyogel (& perhaps other top tier category lubes) being more oriented towards working with highly polished metal surfaces and O-Ring rubber surfaces sliding on metal...vs. Nano-Lube nano particles theoretically acting as tiny ball bearings to keep metal from scraping against metal.

Feeling a smooth threading is one important feature. However, no matter how smooth a lube feels does not mean it is preventing metal scraping against metal. This is going to be more of a problem with softer metals like aluminum, and especially if threads are not precisely made and matched between parts.

I don't think you can judge the value of a lube by using harder metals, or lights made with meticulous thread craftsmanship by McGizmo, Mac, Milky, Modamag, etc. Here is an example of my first "real" light that started my flashaholism, SF L2. The damage to the outer threads when viewed with magnifier shows actual metal scraping/scratch damage that correlated with using Nyogel. I can capture it with my digital microscope, but even this macro view shows some of it.

Since using the Nano-Lube, I have seen no progression of wear, additional scratching, or dirty threads. (click for larger view)






Sure. I would always be willing to try new things. I'm not absolute about Nano-Oil, only that it has worked best on my aluminum lights.


I only mentioned that to verify that I am not beholden to the one dealer, rather to the technology of the product.



Well there are petroleum products of different compositions. I have no doubt that some are more harmful to certain O-ring types than others. I think the discoloration and condition of your O-rings is the best way to judge that.

Thank you Luxluthor for posting your observations / appreciation of Nano-Oil, you have had plenty of time, it has been 2 years and 2 months since your first order in 2007.

To be fair about comparing lubes, anyone testing a new one should not do so on top of Nano-Oil by StClaire, since once you have treated a component with such, the active ingredient Nano-Bearings will be embedded into the metal, performing its anti friction duty, only sanding or recutting would remove it all.

Doing so would make the test inconclusive.

as mention by some members earlier on this and other threads, once treated with Nano-Oil the action has been reported to remain smooth and reapplication needed was infrequent.

 

[csshih]

thank you Tekno_Cowboy for adding the information about different orings.. seems this lube stuff is getting more complicated by the day!

This thread was a good idea.. allot of good discussion without references to... say, spit. or KY...


anyways, do we have to factor grade of aluminum/type of anodizing on threads too? I believe anodizing would change something at least.

 

[Tekno_Cowboy]

I suppose that since Aluminum Oxide is much harder than Aluminum, Any anodized aluminum would be more resistant to wear than non-anodized.

This thread is more about lubes though, so unless a lube works poorly or exceptionally on any particular surface, I see no need to go into detail on the flashlight materials. A good example would be a lube that eats away at plastic lights, or a lube especially good on Ti.

 

[KiwiMark]

Sure. I would always be willing to try new things. I'm not absolute about Nano-Oil, only that it has worked best on my aluminum lights.

I am also willing to try new things - I have already used Nyogel & Krytox, I now have some Nano-Oil on the way. Lux has much experience, so I am happy to try something on his recommendation.

Since I have used Nyogel & Krytox I should be able to offer a useful opinion of the comparison once I get to try some Nano-Oil. I'll let everyone know once I have tried it out.

 

[LuxLuthor]

Shoot me a PM with an address, and I'll get some on it's way to you.

TC, I very much appreciate your generosity, but don't mind paying for this, so I will just go to your marketplace thread and order some now. Thanks for your dedication and hard work in putting this all together.

I do have many lights that I have not gotten around to cleaning and treating with Nanolube. This is the SF M4 top as I received it, and a light wipe with a Kleenex. This is typical from SF & with Nyogel.

​

Depending on being able to remove rubber/plastic parts, my cleanin procedure includes using cotton cloths digging into both thread spaces until clean, then go over with dish soap on a toothbrush, rinse, repeat, then several passes with Isopropyl, & several more passes with Acetone. I separately clean O-rings, plastic parts with wiping, dish soap, a quick wipe with Isopropyl rinsing immediately with water.

 

[elwood]

Has anyone tried NO-OX-ID on a D10? I may be getting one soon and was wondering if it makes the piston "sticky"?

 

[csshih]

Has anyone tried NO-OX-ID on a D10? I may be getting one soon and was wondering if it makes the piston "sticky"?

a very light coat makes it nice and smooth

though I don't have that d10 anymore .. but my friend reports it's working well.

 

[darkzero]

LuxLuthor, ok, you've got me sold. I'm going to get me some of this NanoLube for myself. I've been so tired of Nyogel turning my threads black that I've resorted to using the Parker Super O Lube on threads. I have total four film canisters of Nyogel that I've had for years & haven't even put a dent in them. Wonder what I'm going to do with it all. I'll continue to use the Parker Super O Lube on my orings. What do you recommend for threads, the 10 or 85?

Thanks

 

[csshih]

LuxLuthor, ok, you've got me sold. I'm going to get me some of this NanoLube for myself. I've been so tired of Nyogel turning my threads black that I've resorted to using the Parker Super O Lube on threads. I have total four film canisters of Nyogel that I've had for years & haven't even put a dent in them. Wonder what I'm going to do with it all. I'll continue to use the Parker Super O Lube on my orings. What do you recommend for threads, the 10 or 85?

I like using the 10 on normal flashlight threads, and the 85 on twisties..
let's see what lux thinks.

hey.. can I take that nyogel off your hands? I've never tried that stuff before.. :nana:

 

[LuxLuthor]

LuxLuthor, ok, you've got me sold. I'm going to get me some of this NanoLube for myself. I've been so tired of Nyogel turning my threads black that I've resorted to using the Parker Super O Lube on threads. I have total four film canisters of Nyogel that I've had for years & haven't even put a dent in them. Wonder what I'm going to do with it all. I'll continue to use the Parker Super O Lube on my orings. What do you recommend for threads, the 10 or 85?

Thanks

I mostly use the 10W which seems to have the viscosity of olive oil. The 85W has the comparable viscosity of honey. I have used the 85W with some of my scissors, tin-snips, other hand tools, door hinges. I'm not exactly sure when to use the 85.

Try to find your worse performing threads. At least do a cursory wiping down with a paper towel or cotton rag, trying to get the threads relatively clean with your fingernail behind the rag cleaning the thread channels. Then, I apply 2-3 drops around the top of the male threads, and maybe another 1-2 in middle of threads. Distribute oil by screwing on/off at least 5 times.

I'm going to use the Krytox when I get it on that M4 head.

One other use I found for the 10W is the threads of some expensive fountain pens (Omas, Parker, Montblanc, Visconti, Waterman). I use the tiniest amount, work threads several times, and wipe off any remaining with lint free cloth. I tested it on a number of cheaper pens for over a year first.

 

[darkzero]

Parker O-Ring Lube: Pretty self-explanatory. It's a silicon oil formulated to be used on o-rings. It would be a bad idea to use it on silicone o-rings though.

I think you have the two products mixed up. Parker O Lube is barium petroleum based lube that is not recommended for use on silicone. Parker Super O Lube is the silicone based lube that can be used on pretty much any rubber polymer. The Super O Lube is the product that I was recommending (for orings only).

 

[darkzero]

I mostly use the 10W which seems to have the viscosity of olive oil. The 85W has the comparable viscosity of honey. I have used the 85W with some of my scissors, tin-snips, other hand tools, door hinges. I'm not exactly sure when to use the 85.

Try to find your worse performing threads. At least do a cursory wiping down with a paper towel or cotton rag, trying to get the threads relatively clean with your fingernail behind the rag cleaning the thread channels. Then, I apply 2-3 drops around the top of the male threads, and maybe another 1-2 in middle of threads. Distribute oil by screwing on/off at least 5 times.

I'm going to use the Krytox when I get it on that M4 head.

One other use I found for the 10W is the threads of some expensive fountain pens (Omas, Parker, Montblanc, Visconti, Waterman). I use the tiniest amount, work threads several times, and wipe off any remaining with lint free cloth. I tested it on a number of cheaper pens for over a year first.

Thanks. Just ordered some 10W. I'll be trying some on knives too. Any experience with Nano Grease?

 

[KiwiMark]

Try to find your worse performing threads. At least do a cursory wiping down with a paper towel or cotton rag, trying to get the threads relatively clean with your fingernail behind the rag cleaning the thread channels. Then, I apply 2-3 drops around the top of the male threads, and maybe another 1-2 in middle of threads. Distribute oil by screwing on/off at least 5 times.

When mine arrives I'll use it on my Maglite D-cell torches - the non-anodised threads are definitely the worst performing ones I have. I'll follow your instructions and report back how it goes with Nano-oil vs Krytox vs Nyogel. I think they are currently mostly Nyogel so I'll clean a couple and lube with Krytox, then when the Nano-Oil arrives I'll clean a couple more and use the Nano-Oil on them.

Why do I:
Read a thread, buy a light
Read a thread, buy some batteries
Read a thread, buy a regulated driver (well, 2 actually)
Read a thread, buy a new charger
Read a thread, buy some Nano-Oil
Bloody CPF threads are costing me a fortune! I gotta give up reading before I'm broke!

 

[LuxLuthor]

Thanks. Just ordered some 10W. I'll be trying some on knives too. Any experience with Nano Grease?

I have a small container of the pretty red grease, but I'm not a big grease user. Other than grease gun nipples on cars or inside gearboxes, I never think about using grease. If I thought about it more, I would probably find some uses, but thus far I just admire its pretty color.

 

[LuxLuthor]

When mine arrives I'll use it on my Maglite D-cell torches - the non-anodised threads are definitely the worst performing ones I have. I'll follow your instructions and report back how it goes with Nano-oil vs Krytox vs Nyogel. I think they are currently mostly Nyogel so I'll clean a couple and lube with Krytox, then when the Nano-Oil arrives I'll clean a couple more and use the Nano-Oil on them.

Why do I:
Read a thread, buy a light
Read a thread, buy some batteries
Read a thread, buy a regulated driver (well, 2 actually)
Read a thread, buy a new charger
Read a thread, buy some Nano-Oil
Bloody CPF threads are costing me a fortune! I gotta give up reading before I'm broke!

I have an answer for you that will resolve this, but you are not going to like it.

 

[Tekno_Cowboy]

...I've been so tired of Nyogel turning my threads black...

One thing to remember with Nyogel is that part of the discoloration is due to oxidation of a component in Nyogel. I'm not saying that it's the only reason, but it may explain why it's black from the factory. Nye Lubricants claims that the discoloration doesn't affect the protection of the lube.

I think you have the two products mixed up. Parker O Lube is barium petroleum based lube that is not recommended for use on silicone. Parker Super O Lube is the silicone based lube that can be used on pretty much any rubber polymer. The Super O Lube is the product that I was recommending (for orings only).

Name will be changed to Super O Lube. Thanks for the heads-up :thumbsup:

 

[CaseyS]

Thanks for the great thread. After reading this, I went to my local Ace Hardware and picked up a tube of Super Lube to use on my Quark and MD2. Great stuff, especially for $6. The twist action on the Quark is much smoother now.

 

[darkzero]

Parker Super O Lube: Silicone oil formulated to be used on o-rings. It would be a bad idea to use it on silicone o-rings though.

Name will be changed to Super O Lube. Thanks for the heads-up :thumbsup:

Thanks but the comentary is still mixed up. Wouldn't make sense that a silicone lube could not be used on silicone.

I think you have the two products mixed up. Parker O Lube is barium petroleum based lube that is not recommended for use on silicone.

Parker Super O Lube is the silicone based lube that can be used on pretty much any rubber polymer. The Super O Lube is the product that I was recommending (for orings only).

 

[Tekno_Cowboy]

Thanks but the comentary is still mixed up. Wouldn't make sense that a silicone lube could not be used on silicone.

Actually, silicone lube causes silicone o-rings to swell. I had this happen on a canister I had, and I had to cut it open to get the camping kit inside.

 

[darkzero]

Actually, silicone lube causes silicone o-rings to swell. I had this happen on a canister I had, and I had to cut it open to get the camping kit inside.

I see, never had that happen to me & would never have thought that. Wonder why that is? :thinking:

I suppose I should stop using it on my PD lights but I've been using the Super O Lube on them for awhile now & haven't noticed any different.