Don,
Ah, good point on the non-milled ends, I wasnt thinking about that.
That would certainly make it more difficult.
From what I can tell from the photos, I would try a 1/16" thick soft rubber.
Besides a hole for the power cord, and a switch, you would actually not need to cut the gasket to fit the bar.
Just cut it to the shape of the end plate.
This makes a much less complicated gasket design, and eliminates alot of alignment problems with such a complicated shape.
How much heat is the Xitanium creating on its own?
I noticed you have it right behind the leds, and that bit of AL much be getting fairly hot.
Was wondering how much heat the Xitanium could take, and how it handles being mounted to the back of the led shelf.
How is the heat transfer BTW ?
Is the heat transferring all the way though the bar, to the outer areas of the fins fairly fast and even?
After you made a few, do you think there is enough mass there?
or do you think you could have done with more, or less?
Also, I THINK you are already doing this, but wanted to through this idea in for the tripod mount.
Do you have a square nut places in a channel in the bar?
So that it can be slide to any position on the bar, then tightened againt the tripod bolt/mount to stay in place?
I think this would be a much better solution than simply picking a spot or two to bore and thread it for the tripod.
This way, they tripod threading if movable, and you could even have two on it,
which I can see being nice for a more sturdy mount.
Such as, mounted on the back of my ATV as a reverse light.
This is the perfect kind of system I like.
One main head unit with a variety of mounting options,
able to adapt itself to different needs.
~John