Fenix bike mount?

[cave dave]

Here are a few photos of the TwoFish Lockblocks with a Fenix L2D Premium 100 and a totally unrelated CF card (for perspective only). Sorry, these weren't done under the best lighting so detail in the blacks is not what it should be.

Thanks for the pics. Apparently these are different than the ones for a U-lock. The short strap is longer, but not as long as the long strap.

 

[varuscelli]

Thanks for the pics. Apparently these are different than the ones for a U-lock. The short strap is longer, but not as long as the long strap.

Yeah, if I'm not mistaken the ones for a U-lock have the two "U's" running in such a way to attach objects that run parallel to one another rather than turned as the lockblocks are to attach objects that are perpendicular (or crossways) to one another. I think the U-locks are the ones used if you want to mount a light to (for instance) a helmet, where the light and the helmet ridge run in the same direction.

Or am I way off target with both the concept and the way I said it?

 

[greenLED]

Yeah, if I'm not mistaken the ones for a U-lock have the two "U's" running in such a way to attach objects that run parallel to one another rather than turned as the lockblocks are to attach objects that are perpendicular (or crossways) to one another. I think the U-locks are the ones used if you want to mount a light to (for instance) a helmet, where the light and the helmet ridge run in the same direction.

Or am I way off target with both the concept and the way I said it?

I'm sorry to say, but you're off in your description. The lockblock set intended to secure a U-shaped bike lock, has 3 lockblocks, and all of them are made so the straps are perpendicular to each other.

The set of 3 comes with different-sized straps (2 long and 1 short, IIRC - or the other way around) for the top, and equal length straps for the bottom.

I did a GB on these a long time ago; the thread with pics should be somewhere in the GB section.

 

[varuscelli]

I'm sorry to say, but you're off in your description. The lockblock set intended to secure a U-shaped bike lock, has 3 lockblocks, and all of them are made so the straps are perpendicular to each other.

The set of 3 comes with different-sized straps (2 long and 1 short, IIRC - or the other way around) for the top, and equal length straps for the bottom.

I did a GB on these a long time ago; the thread with pics should be somewhere in the GB section.

Ahh, I think what I was trying to describe is the larger version of the Bikeblock (the MegaBlock) that is intended to attach large U-locks to the top tube hanging downward (much in the way a bicycle pump would be attached parallel via a Bikeblock) -- this as opposed to attaching the U-lock to the handlebars. I believe that one (the MegaBlock) is designed to accommodate the parallel configuration rather than the perpendicular configuration, as seen on this page (fifth item down):

http://www.twofish.biz/bike.html

I think (again, could be wrong) that the MegaBlock is designed for attaching a U-lock in the same manner that the Bikeblock works (straps parallel)...and the ones for U-lock handlebar mounting are just standard Lockblocks...(?)

I think we're saying the same thing, just saying it in a different way. Apparently, TwoFish allows for more than one way to mount a U-lock via their various block configurations (to the handlebar via Lockblock or to the top tube via MegaBlock).

But then again, maybe the MegaBlock has only one "U" -- I've not seen a good enough photo of one to know for sure... (seems like it would have two, though).

 

[greenLED]

TwoFish allows for more than one way to mount a U-lock via their various block configurations (to the handlebar via Lockblock or to the top tube via MegaBlock).

Yes.

 

[ElectronGuru]

Here are a few photos of the TwoFish Lockblocks with a Fenix L2D Premium 100 and a totally unrelated CF card (for perspective only). Sorry, these weren't done under the best lighting so detail in the blacks is not what it should be.

No worries, these photos are awesome! :thumbsup:

I've been specifically wondering about dual AA lights for some time, how they run as headlights - just what your beamshots show. Thanks! If I may ask, a couple of questions:

1) I can't quite see in the pictures how crowded the area near your stem is. Can you kill the need for the bar mount by moving the reflector more to the side and putting both lights directly on the bar, to either side of the stem?

2) I've found over-the-bar positioning to be slightly unstable, have you had a chance to test under-the-bar mounting?

3) Assuming you are running both lights on Turbo, how warm are they after 20, 40, 60 minutes of night riding?

4) Assuming you are running both lights on Turbo, how is the light spill in use? That is, without the headlamp, can you see enough to the sides to feel comfortable that you are seeing enough? Would you consider pointing the lights out from center to improve lateral spill?

5) Assuming 150 (each) lumens out the front, is 300 lumens enough for urban night riding? Would 200-225 be enough? I'm talking volume of light here, not delivery.

6) Is the multi mode tailswitch easy enough: click-on-one, click-on-two, out the door?

7) As you mention, the narrowing of the AA body makes a perfect mounting point. Does using it necessitate opening the velcro every time you remove the lights?

8) How about two dual AAs on the bike and one single AA on the helmet?

9) If they made it, would you want one wide reflector and one narrow reflector? Im thinking of mimicking my trucks top set lens arrangement:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/173142


Here's a read on better batteries and cases:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/168348

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2144445


And a protype tail light from Mr Orb:

http://lummi.co.uk/pics/pat/target9.html

 

[varuscelli]

No worries, these photos are awesome! :thumbsup:

I've been specifically wondering about dual AA lights for some time, how they run as headlights - just what your beamshots show. Thanks! If I may ask, a couple of questions:

1) I can't quite see in the pictures how crowded the area near your stem is. Can you kill the need for the bar mount by moving the reflector more to the side and putting both lights directly on the bar, to either side of the stem?

2) I've found over-the-bar positioning to be slightly unstable, have you had a chance to test under-the-bar mounting?

3) Assuming you are running both lights on Turbo, how warm are they after 20, 40, 60 minutes of night riding?

4) Assuming you are running both lights on Turbo, how is the light spill in use? That is, without the headlamp, can you see enough to the sides to feel comfortable that you are seeing enough? Would you consider pointing the lights out from center to improve lateral spill?

5) Assuming 150 (each) lumens out the front, is 300 lumens enough for urban night riding? Would 200-225 be enough? I'm talking volume of light here, not delivery.

6) Is the multi mode tailswitch easy enough: click-on-one, click-on-two, out the door?

7) As you mention, the narrowing of the AA body makes a perfect mounting point. Does using it necessitate opening the velcro every time you remove the lights?

8) How about two dual AAs on the bike and one single AA on the helmet?

9) If they made it, would you want one wide reflector and one narrow reflector? Im thinking of mimicking my trucks top set lens arrangement:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/173142

Thanks for the comments on the photos! And I'll try to answer these questions as best I can...

1) Yes, I do believe there would be plenty of room on my handlebars for the two lights as mounted with the Lockblocks with one on each side of the stem. All you need is about one inch available width/space on the handlebar (maybe 1.25 inches at most) to lock in one of the Lockblocks. (I've taken off the reflector that's shown in some of the photos, by the way.)

2) For my setup, under the spacebar might work if the spacebar were angled up enough to be able to easily reach the light switches. With my bike, under the handlebar might be more of a problem because of the "depth" to which the lockblock would dip and the possible (again, possible) interference with the brake cables, etc. I'm actually not finding the "over the spacebar" positioning particularly unstable, though. Then again, I'm just riding the streets and not on any rough night trails.

3) Since I've gotten these lights (and I am running them on turbo) I don't think I've ridden more than about 45 minutes at one time (just somel light neighborhood riding). I feel the lights to check and see if they feel hot, but I've not noticed anything to alarm me. They seem to stay relatively cool with riding. But that's just my unscientific assessment. I'm not sure how hot is too hot, but to the touch they seem fine -- or, at least not hot.

4) I feel that the spill is fine with two lights. My photos don't show it very well, but my eye picks up all that extra light much better than it shows in the photos. To me, it's very nice. I did try playing around with angling the lights outward a bit and didn't personally like it. Much better, I think, to use a separate helmet light and keep the two handlebar lights working together nice and bright in the middle -- or at most, aim one a bit farther ahead, but not separate the beams side to side. That was my impression, anyway. The lights lost some intensity when angled apart laterally. (They're small but powerful for their size, but not really so powerful to work exceptionally well when separated too much. Again, just my impression.)

5) You could probably get by on less light (I did for a while) but I think the extra light spoils you quickly and settling for less, to me, would be difficult to do out of choice. Out of necessity, no problem. Out of choice, now I don't want to go back to any less...

6) Yes, very easy. Once in a while you'll accidentally click it into the flashing mode but it's easy to get a feel for the different modes and really quick and easy to correct if you want to back out of flashing mode.

7) The Velcro needs only to be loosened to remove the lights. Does not need to be fully unstrapped or anything. And if the Velcro is tightened correctly, the light won't accidentally come out of the lockblock or even move around. You can slip it back and forth to some degree by hand within the lockblock strap, but because of the shape of the L2D body, it's not going to come completely out of the lockblock easily without an intentional loosening of the strap.

8) That would probably work fine, but I can't say from experience. But, after mounting one of the dual AA lights to my helmet, I like that very much. Not sure how I'd feel about the single AA light, and haven't used one to know for sure how well it would supplement the other lights. My gut feel is either a stand-alone dual AA light on the helmet or one of the more powerful single battery lights on the helmet (as socalrider has been doing).

9) I'd sure like to try that and see.

 

[cy]

7777, do you have the parallel config. twofish blocks? std orientation is 90degrees. sometime one needs to mount light in same direction as support.

 

[varuscelli]

By the way, I've been posting a bunch more photos on this page on my site.

My Fenix L2D Premium 100 Lights

I seem to be posting a few more shots each day as I play around with my setup and take new photos (just trying to visually document my learning process and what I'm seeing and doing).

 

[varuscelli]

7777, do you have the parallel config. twofish blocks? std orientation is 90degrees. sometime one needs to mount light in same direction as support.

Not to steal his thunder (sorry if this is out of place), but yes he does. They're the Bikeblocks and they can be bought individually or in three packs. See the same page where he sells the TwoFish Lockblocks and look for Bikeblocks. (They're shown attaching a pump to the top tube.)

Fenix-Store Lockblock and Bikeblock Page

I just ordered a three-pack myself...

 

[cy]

david, can't get your shopping basket to work with paypal. can you PM me your you PP address? need to order your 3x bikeblock set

 

[jirik_cz]

varuscelli: very nice photos

I heard some rumors from our local Fenix dealer, that Fenix is going to produce their own bike mounts. Anyone heard this too? (4sevens??)


I hope it is not off topic to show you my DIY helmet mount
It is very simple, you only need two double-sided velcro straps. Mount is very light and solid.

 

[ElectronGuru]

varuscelli,

I've added you to the Rebel index:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/172850

:goodjob:

 

[varuscelli]

varuscelli,

I've added you to the Rebel index:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/172850

:goodjob:

Wow, thanks... (I think...unless, of course, this involves any civil fines or possible prison time... oo: ).

Otherwise, I feel honored. :thumbsup:

 

[ElectronGuru]

Bonus Info. I was just talking with a professional bike mechanic and he brought up an important point:

Light that originates near your head lands equally everywhere it hits, leaving no visible shadows. The effect is very much like photographs taken with standard camera flashes, the detail gets washed out. Off axis lights (in our case, handle bar mounted) provide shadows in nooks and crannies that reveal important detail. For example, pot holes!

His point: "make sure head mounted lights are less powerful than bar mounted lights used at the same time"

 

[cave dave]

His point: "make sure head mounted lights are less powerful than bar mounted lights used at the same time"

I find that the helmet light should be about 1/3 to 1/4 as bright as the bar unit.

I prefer a throwy light on the helmet and a floody light on the bar. So generally I'll use an optic on the helmet and a reflector on the bar.

I think helmet light should be able to tilt. Getting just the right angle makes a huge difference if you are using the light to see things. jirik's light looks like it's pointing at the sky. Fenix lights are fine for the bars but use a headlamp for the helmet.

 

[ElectronGuru]

I find that the helmet light should be about 1/3 to 1/4 as bright as the bar unit.

Thanks for the info. Combining two L2T's and one L1T, that would be just about 3 to 1:

140 x 2 = 280
90 x 1 = 90

Any recommendations for achieving the reflector/optic difference?