HDS Systems #23

jon_slider

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rubber buttons for the clicky?
dont worry, the Clicky and Rotary use the same rubber buttons.

Same parts for both Clicky and Rotary:
1. Rubber Switch Boots.
2. Heads and all the parts, including Reflectors, lenses, bezels, electronics. (programmed differently, but same hardware)

Different Parts between Clicky and Rotary:
1. body tubes
2. tailcaps
3. tailswitch

If you need to replace the button on a rotary, either send it to HDS, or if you have the skills and inclination, follow this tutorial.
 
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ilikeguns40

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dont worry, the Clicky and Rotary use the same rubber buttons.

Same parts for both Clicky and Rotary:
1. Rubber Switch Boots.
2. Heads and all the parts, including Reflectors, lenses, bezels, electronics. (programmed differently, but same hardware)

Different Parts between Clicky and Rotary:
1. body tubes
2. tailcaps
3. tailswitch

If you need to replace the button on a rotary, either send it to HDS, or if you have the skills and inclination, follow this tutorial.
That's one crazy design under that rotary tailcap. Very interesting how that works
 

JohnSmith

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That's one crazy design under that rotary tailcap. Very interesting how that works
I'd think the removal and replacement (and reindexing) of the circuit board would be the critical step, but unfortunately that's not explored in the tutorial.
 
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I'd think the removal and replacement (and reindexing) of the circuit board would be the critical step, but unfortunately that's not explored in the tutorial.
IIRC, the circuit board on the tail cap side is threaded in and holds the rubber boot in place. The threads are cut in a way where the board would be indexed correctly every time (with some room for error) as long as it is tightened down completely. This is why the distance (measuring from the stop screw) to go from level 1 to 2 may be different than the distance from 24 to 23. It's not always symmetrical, but likely not noticeable until something larger (like a clip) is tapped in place of the stop screw.
 

jon_slider

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IIRC, the circuit board on the tail cap side is threaded in and holds the rubber boot in place.
thanks for sharing info!

the removal... of the circuit board... not explored in the tutorial.
youre right! It only shows how to get the tailcap off, nothing about how to swap out a rubber boot... hmmm definitely best to let HDS deal with it ;-)

fwiw, there IS an indexing mark shown in the photos, I added the orange arrow:
0cXAClX.jpg

How often does the button need to be replaced on an HDS Rotary? ;-)
 

JohnSmith

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How often does the button need to be replaced on an HDS Rotary? ;-)
I don't know but it keeps me up at night lol

I love my one Rotary, and I'd have more rotaries if I knew I could do it myself (I'm historically a Clicky guy, see my avatar).
 

desert.snake

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Yeah, a replaceable rubber cap would be very nice, but if we replace it by the user, we can always break the very delicate contacts of the rotary mechanism.

At first I thought about two rubber caps - an inner one, which can only be changed with a complete disassembly of the tail, and an outer one, which will be fastened with a threaded ring.

But if something could pierce the first rubber cap (metal shavings), then it will pierce the second cap as well.

Then another idea came - a metal cap made of steel (optionally titanium). And everything will be inserted from the inside, that is, Henry will fix it. If you choose the right contact patch and membrane paterial (fluorsilicone example or kalrez), it will last forever and is protected from wear, except for very advanced cases of contamination.

Just a mental diagram, without a rotating stuffing.
1686686090157.png


This can slightly increase the size of the cap in length and weight, although I have not seen those among HDS lovers who complained a lot about weight, unlike Zebra lovers :grin2:
 
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indigon

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What works even better for me on my work edc is a tritium Ti Rhino Glow Worm on the lanyard. Very bright, basically indestructible, almost weightless and so easy to find the light anytime at night. 🤠
hdsglow_worm.jpg

.. 🤷
glow,_2.jpg
 
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jon_slider

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The trits on the bezel are easily smashed (if you EDC it, like next to a pocket knife or something).
Agree the Trits are fragile.
Im pretty careful, and carry my light in a dedicated pocket.

Sometimes I use a pouch with separate compartments, if I want to group stuff:

055Isgw.jpg
 
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Hogokansatsukan

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Not only will the Clicky be discontinued in the future, the Rotary will as well. So yes. Panic. Be worried. Doesn't matter if the parts are the same as the Rotary as that will go away too. The new light being designed is not compatible with the current one.

There. Just made folks panic for no good reason at all.
Yes. We will keep parts for repairs.
We will not be ordering parts for the current Clicky or Rotary. Once that stock is gone... it is gone. How long will that take? Hopefully over a year or more.
 

Mr. LED

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Not only will the Clicky be discontinued in the future, the Rotary will as well. So yes. Panic. Be worried. Doesn't matter if the parts are the same as the Rotary as that will go away too. The new light being designed is not compatible with the current one.

There. Just made folks panic for no good reason at all.
Yes. We will keep parts for repairs.
We will not be ordering parts for the current Clicky or Rotary. Once that stock is gone... it is gone. How long will that take? Hopefully over a year or more.
Is the new model going to feature a rotary tail as well?
 
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