HDS Systems EDC #21

[Hondo]

no it says Double Press, not Double Click

The current HDS manual has this, from ON:
Double-press-hold-release – selects preset A.
Double Press actually means the same as Click Press, afaict

Right you are, for the "Advanced" User's Guide.

Holy crap, the manuals are all over the place. Before I get going, I'll just say that the use of the term "Double-press-hold" has most of us clicking an extra time, so "Click-press-hold" is a better choice.

OK, so as above, the Advanced guide says "Double-press-hold" to lock Preset A (possibly the worst one yet, as above)

The EDC Executive Flashlight User's Guide (short version) says "click-press-hold-release" (better, IMO)

The Ra Executive ("Legacy") manual says "Click, press-hold-release" (good, just changes in punctuation)

The Novatac 120P manual says "Click-press" (simple, maybe the best, or may be confused with just a press-hold)

The EDC Ultimate manual says "You can make your light stay on the Maximum setting by double-click pressing" (I think this is just wrong, says to click twice, more confusing than the "Double-press-hold")

So there you have it, all of the manuals, including the two versions for the same (current) light are like snowflakes, they all present the instruction differently. No wonder we were confused!

 

[maukka]

The wonder of Lee's minus green filters.

My 219C 5000K CRI90 was pretty green at duv +0.0050, but now it's perfect with a layer of Zircon 803.

Before:

After:

 

[indigon]

Good stuff Maukka, Mahaloz!

I'm guessing most folks on this forum can program an HDS with their eyes closed (preferably open).
I always program my clicky and rotary about the same..

A) Max
>B) lvl 13-ish about 2 lumen (turn-on) / rotary nub lined up on clip.
C) (double-click) lvl 18-ish about 20 lumen
D) (triple-click) (blinky)

Programming always on, no problems.
Clicky sometimes pre-set off, (memory), but I always forget and get my socks blown off.

Problem is when someone borrows the light.
They won't figure out the clicky straight away, but the rotary is no problem.

Barmaid: "Mind if I borrow your light for a minute?"
Me: "Sure." (Handing her my rotary).
(She figures out how to turn it on right away)
Me: "Just turn the top if you want to make it brighter".
Barmaid: "Whoa."
(A few minutes later, she brings it back).
Barmaid: "This is the coolest flashlight I've ever seen."
Me: "Yep."

(I know she has flashlights behind the bar, just wanted to check mine out..)

 

[jon_slider]

So there you have it, all of the manuals, including the two versions for the same (current) light are like snowflakes, they all present the instruction differently. No wonder we were confused!

Thanks Hondo, very helpful, they all mean the same thing. I think the wording change is related to the use of momentary mode in the tacticals, where saying click press would not be as accurate as double press..

Im glad we figured out its just semantics and the actual thumb movements are the same.

The wonder of Lee's minus green filters.

My 219C 5000K CRI90 was pretty green at duv +0.0050, but now it's perfect with a layer of Zircon 803.

...
After:

thank you very much for sharing your awesome measurements!

thats a really impressive 42% increase in R9 in exchange for a 20% drop in output

Lee filter light transmission:
Zircon 803: 79.9%
Lee 249 -Quarter minus green : 81.5%

I also like to use 1/4 minus green on my N219c LEDs, so they are not so yellow/green, and look more like the Pink N219b LEDs

I see indigon is also a fan of Lee minus green filters:

I had been using a Lee 1/8 minus-green and not the 1/4 minus-green

I use 1/4 minus green on my N219c 3000k, and 1/8 minus green on my N219b 4000k 9080

...
I always program my clicky and rotary about the same..

A) Max
>B) lvl 13-ish about 2 lumen (turn-on) / rotary nub lined up on clip.
C) (double-click) lvl 18-ish about 20 lumen
D) (triple-click) (blinky)

Programming always on, no problems.
Clicky sometimes pre-set off, (memory), but I always forget and get my socks blown off.
)

thanks for sharing your settings
atm I have the Novatac set to
A) Max
>B) 3 lumen
C) 17 lumen
D) (triple-click) minimum

Force Preset off, so I can use minimum at first click (unless as you said, I blow my socks off)

fun choices

 

[bigburly912]

You have got to look into the Downward Draw Thors Custom Leather HDS holster with the military snap. This holster allows you to draw your light downward from your belt from under your winter coat. It provides easy access to the light and keeps the metal light warm until you need it. Real nice and highly recommended.

thanks for the heads up! Looks like something that would be very useful. I usually have a horizontal sheath for my lights/knives but that would be worth trying!

In other news I can now program my hds with no problems whatsoever. I have my modes spaced out the way I want them, have my features set up the way I want them. good to go. Im sure ill eventually get tired of messing around with it but for now it gives me something to do to pass the time at work.

 

[Tejasandre]

thanks for the heads up! Looks like something that would be very useful. I usually have a horizontal sheath for my lights/knives but that would be worth trying!

In other news I can now program my hds with no problems whatsoever. I have my modes spaced out the way I want them, have my features set up the way I want them. good to go. Im sure ill eventually get tired of messing around with it but for now it gives me something to do to pass the time at work.

Careful what you wish for. They gave me more work to pass the time at work.

 

[Cerealand]

I used to be able to program the HDS lights without looking at the manual. I got the lights to where I needed the outputs to be. After several years, I decided to reprogram a light. Had to look for Dan's youtube videos to refresh my memory.

 

[bigburly912]

Those vids are game changers. The manual is not that great to say the least

 

[ven]

I dont care! I admit it.................... I have not even tried to program my rotary. Main reason.......................i love it out of the box, just as is. I program other drivers, either to specific mode levels/amounts or like the h17f(one of my fav), simply out of the 2 groups..................a single do it all mode. So i know what i get when i click it every time...........thats an all my h17f driven lights.

Anyway, the rotary out of the box is just perfect, any level i am on, i need max..............press and hold! Even an idiot can work it

 

[Cerealand]

My dad does not even click throught his presets on thr rotary. Just twist the knob.

 

[thermal guy]

Being in the military I have used pull dots on my equipment and can attest to there strength but there is just no way I would ever feel safe carrying my HDS upside down.

 

[ven]

My dad does not even click throught his presets on thr rotary. Just twist the knob.

What presets

:laughing:

I just twist and go :naughty:

 

[Tejasandre]

What presets

:laughing:

I just twist and go :naughty:

What if you need to go from low to high? That's almost a full rotation!

 

[jon_slider]

I have not even tried to program my rotary.
...
Even an idiot can work it

I tried to demonstrate how to reset my mode D on the SPA to a friend at lunch. I ended up strobing everybody in the restaurant.. a rotary would have been much less embarrasing

My dad does not even click throught his presets on thr rotary. Just twist the knob.

which is why recent rotaries come with all the presets set to Rotary.. the whole preset multi click thing, has been completely relegated to Historycal CliqueEy Old Timers, by the "Revolutionary" new interface.

 

[indigon]

What if you need to go from low to high? That's almost a full rotation!

Click - PressHoldRelease

Have been testing my NB45 4500 rotary in the field about a week.. Total winner.

(Streamlight 1L/2L clip, Double Novatac caps).

 

[Lithium466]

Squishy, gritty and flashing.

Really that bad ?

 

[maukka]

I like the older rotary and switch that I got from JKolmo more than the new one on the sw45k. Even if the newer one actually tailstands without wobbling.

The older one is lighter to press and less mushy. Very smooth as well but the little grittyness of the rotary part doesn't bother me at all.

 

[ven]

What if you need to go from low to high? That's almost a full rotation!

Just press and hold, instant full output. Think as a momentary type use, soon as released your back to the original level. Works great, one of my fav short cuts in a UI.

 

[JKolmo]

I like the older rotary and switch that I got from JKolmo more than the new one on the sw45k. Even if the newer one actually tailstands without wobbling.

The older one is lighter to press and less mushy. Very smooth as well but the little grittyness of the rotary part doesn't bother me at all.

Very glad you like it maukka!

Yeah, the old style rotary tail is much nicer IMO too. 2 of my 3 new style tails have been returned for warranty repair (due to the flicker disease). Probably I have just been unlucky though. Hope Henry will sort this in the coming ti and bonze/brass runs, don't want that to occur in a flashlight at that price point.

 

[Lithium466]

That's unfortunate Henry is supposed to improve them, not the contrary ! Guess they are more robust. Also no play in mine. I wonder if I could open it and add a small plastic disc under the rubber boot to make it better...but I also suppose that if it's not there, it's because a smarter brain decided they weren't needed...or they were just out of stock!