- Joined
- Feb 2, 2006
- Messages
- 1,151
@rrego
The light silver M6 (2320) is a rarity. It comes in HAII ano only and possibly with a twisty switch mechanism. It also comes with a focusable incan bulb design, as well as additional inner threads on the frontal battery tube side. I'd say, you may wish to consider this for collection.
BTW I also have original silver clicky tailcap spares available, should you want to swap out the entire twisty tailcap. I've personally checked (and reconditioned) every one of them, down to the stock clicky chassis, to ensure it works without issue. PM me for more info.
Meanwhile, you may want to consider the post-2014 M6 as regular user. As mentioned before, any host with the battery indicator etching on the tailcap should point to the post-2014 spec, which comes with a completely different stock clicky mecha design that I find it not as durable. In this case, replacing that clicky mecha with my type B Kroll assy is highly recommended.
AFAIK the M3 (3370) only comes in matt (thus the "chalky" feel) HAIII anodize in Hard Black (more towards charcoal grey IMO) and OD Green. All these are pre-2014 models.
Thje Kroll clicky assy's spring is likely to scratch the battery's -ve pad, but NOT enough to crush it.
As far as dropins are concerned, the M3/M6 requires a modified D26 module setup with longer +ve center spring. The LF module is one such example, having modified the entire lower skirt (heatsink and spring) just for this Peli application.
The other aftermarket module reported to work in this setup is the Malkoff. But that's pretty much it -- YMMV. For me I only stick to the LF ones. One will appreciate the LF design only after the module is installed and the entire light screwed back together.
The light silver M6 (2320) is a rarity. It comes in HAII ano only and possibly with a twisty switch mechanism. It also comes with a focusable incan bulb design, as well as additional inner threads on the frontal battery tube side. I'd say, you may wish to consider this for collection.
BTW I also have original silver clicky tailcap spares available, should you want to swap out the entire twisty tailcap. I've personally checked (and reconditioned) every one of them, down to the stock clicky chassis, to ensure it works without issue. PM me for more info.
Meanwhile, you may want to consider the post-2014 M6 as regular user. As mentioned before, any host with the battery indicator etching on the tailcap should point to the post-2014 spec, which comes with a completely different stock clicky mecha design that I find it not as durable. In this case, replacing that clicky mecha with my type B Kroll assy is highly recommended.
AFAIK the M3 (3370) only comes in matt (thus the "chalky" feel) HAIII anodize in Hard Black (more towards charcoal grey IMO) and OD Green. All these are pre-2014 models.
Thje Kroll clicky assy's spring is likely to scratch the battery's -ve pad, but NOT enough to crush it.
As far as dropins are concerned, the M3/M6 requires a modified D26 module setup with longer +ve center spring. The LF module is one such example, having modified the entire lower skirt (heatsink and spring) just for this Peli application.
The other aftermarket module reported to work in this setup is the Malkoff. But that's pretty much it -- YMMV. For me I only stick to the LF ones. One will appreciate the LF design only after the module is installed and the entire light screwed back together.