Infrared flashlights

[Eric242]

Thank you. I was at these pages before but the description only mentioned XP-G2 and nichia LEDs. I never checked the pulldown menu which has the IR option.

 

[Boris74]

I have an energizer hardcase I've had for 6 years now. The one with the screw on red and blue filter that screws onto the battery cap when not in use. When I put both filters on there is no visible light but looks like a 5,000 lumen flooder thrower all in one IR light. Nothing visible to the naked eye but unreal with night vision that uses IR.

 

[haymant]

Are there any infrared flashlights out there, except Fenix TK25IR ?

I have a Streamlight Sidewinder military flashlight, has IR mode.

 

[lebox97]

There are several Osram IR LED ~ the 3.4w is the highest output...
https://www.osram.com/os/products/product-promotions/infrared-products/ir_dragon_family.jsp
and https://www.mouser.com/new/osram/osramIRoslonblack/

then, next question is what power is being provided to the LED, as the output can vary significantly depending on driver used.

I can't find any info on the specific LED or voltage, and drive current of the Customlites models.

While ET/SP tends to run at max+ LED Vf/current for max output ~ the info on LED and driver specs can be found on the ET/SP websites.

Cheers

How do the EagTac & SporTac compare to the IR drop-in from Customlites.com? I think they're using the same LED.
Dan

 

[KBobAries]

lebox97,

Thank you for taking the time to post that info. I appreciate it.

Dan

 

[Closet_Flashaholic]

Any Canon or Nikon can have the sensor replaced for one that allows shooting visible light as well as infrared what you have to be carefull with is your glass, many lenses cant capture infrared properly , you can also take "regular" pictures and run them thru photoshop to make infrared visible by chenging your settings on white balance and a few other things.

Just an FYI, I think you have your teminology a little mixed up. The sensors themselves are not replaced for increased sensitivity to IR. Most DLSRs have an IR "cut" filter in front of the sensor to reduce IR getting to the sensor. This IR filter is what is typically removed and either replaced with a "clear" piece of glass or sometimes nothing at all (depends on specific original design). This is because IR frequencies getting to the sensor can alter (fool) the sensor during the detection of visible light and yield unnatural colors to the human eye. For cameras that use the sensor for (phase detection) autofocus, IR frequencies cause a different focus calculation and might result in out of focus pictures for the visible frequencies. This is why if one looks at "old" manual focus lens for SLRs (not DSLRs), there are sometimes 2 focus indexes - one white (for normal film), one red (for IR film) to compensate for the longer IR wavelengths of IR film.

There are models of DSLRs designed for better IR capture - typically they will be called "Astronomy" models. I know Nikon used to make them, but I don't follow it as much anymore. I think there was a D800A (and maybe a D810A). DuckDuckGo.com is your friend.

There are also adapters available to allow night vision to be mounted to an (D)SLR or video equipment - that's the "green" scenes that are seen on TV for battle scenes - but this type of setup is very specialized and very expensive.

 

[ank]

EagTac & SporTac has several models using the Osram 3.4w 850nm IR LED
(highest output IR LED AFAIK).
the IR output blows away any "3"-"5"w eBay/FT/DX lights.

Distance to horses is 225 yards, tree line is 1/4 mile.
(and note the light was pointed down to ground).

Cheers

Unfortunately I live in Europe, but I found "ET28" IR dropins here for T20C2. Would these fit in a different EagTac model? Because I can't find the T20C2

 

[lebox97]

T20C2 modules only fit T20C2, a discontinued model from a few years ago...

T25C2 modules would fit current T25C2 model.

not sure about the LED though,
it took quite a bit of development to get these high output LED to focus properly,
for many years these 3.4w Osram lights were custom built for us only, other dealers used one of the lower output IR Osram LEDs.
not sure if this is true anymore though, I think ET now sells the high output to any dealer that requests it.

Cheers

 

[Nisei]

I have used a blue Convoy S2+ for my Nichia 365nM UV LED and driver.
I would now like to use a red Convoy S2+ as a host for an Osram 850nM IR led.
Can anyone help me in a direction how to achieve this?
I can solder so no problem there. Accept I have no idea what else I need to buy.

Thanks in advance

 

[Sierra_Bill]

Just an FYI, I think you have your teminology a little mixed up. The sensors themselves are not replaced for increased sensitivity to IR. Most DLSRs have an IR "cut" filter in front of the sensor to reduce IR getting to the sensor. This IR filter is what is typically removed and either replaced with a "clear" piece of glass or sometimes nothing at all (depends on specific original design). This is because IR frequencies getting to the sensor can alter (fool) the sensor during the detection of visible light and yield unnatural colors to the human eye. For cameras that use the sensor for (phase detection) autofocus, IR frequencies cause a different focus calculation and might result in out of focus pictures for the visible frequencies. This is why if one looks at "old" manual focus lens for SLRs (not DSLRs), there are sometimes 2 focus indexes - one white (for normal film), one red (for IR film) to compensate for the longer IR wavelengths of IR film.

There are models of DSLRs designed for better IR capture - typically they will be called "Astronomy" models. I know Nikon used to make them, but I don't follow it as much anymore. I think there was a D800A (and maybe a D810A). DuckDuckGo.com is your friend.

There are also adapters available to allow night vision to be mounted to an (D)SLR or video equipment - that's the "green" scenes that are seen on TV for battle scenes - but this type of setup is very specialized and very expensive.

Nikon did have a D810A; there was never a D800A. Canon has had a couple of astronomy models. Dedicated astronomy DSLRs don't actually reach much if at all into the near-IR region. Rather, their sensor filters have a more abrupt cutoff (rather than a gradual slope) at the longwave end of red to better catch the hydrogen alpha line at 656.28 nm which is still in the visible region.

 

[Kayaker530]

I realize that this thread is over 5 years old. This is the only one that my search on IR lights came up with. I recently bought and have been experimenting with the Convoy C8+ and S2+ lights in 850 NM. They are very powerful. I have been talking with Simon and he is going to work on a L/M/H Driver giving about 5, 35, 100 percent output. At 100 percent output and an inexpensive $700 consumer grade NVD they were too powerful until I was looking out at about 200 yards plus. 100 yards they were entirely too bright for the device my friend had. More experimentation is needed, but I don't own the NVD.